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Leave the rear catch off completely till youve finished alignment also the rear rubber seal. Loosen the cones at the rear just enough to move then you can align the rear end of the bonnet to sit in them and get the rear height right. Its too late to align the sides as that requires wings off to bend the inner wing rails to suit. The side rubbers sometimes need a little shave off if the gap is too narrow. Leave the headlamps out so you can get to the mounting bolts. Make sure the captive plates move OK in the frame, Leave the side strap bolts till youve finished the alignment as you may find th

HI Peter I think that is the R/H inner Rear wheel arch, the two holes are for the captive seat belt nuts and the location indents in the middle of the item are for the rotoflex top shock absorber mount. Hope this helps Kind regards Andrew

When i fitted strap 89 that stopped the rattle noise to mine along with the spring and plunger .

Nice couple TR’s enjoying the Anglesey sunshine this morning. didn’t get to meet the owners unfortunately.

Another advantage of a modern relay is that you can get them with standard replaceable modern fuses built in, something that I used for my electric fan on my car 30 amp fused relay

Many thanks Howard, I'll try your suggestions when I get back out to the garage; probably not today as it's my wifes birthday and I would like to stay in her good books.

Wow a 1 to 1 scale airfix kit!

I concur. Fit engine gearbox and all suspension to make a rolling chassis. Regards Harry

Had a great first half, jousting with one Richard Hammond, of Top Gear, The Grand Tour, etc etc, who was making a programme for TV ??? Lost him after the compulsory pitstop, but a most satisfying day! John

Thanks very much for the positive earth instructions. I will report back here after I have the relay disconnected when the rain stops and the drive is dry. Richard & B

The A-type OD draws 20A or so. A standard 30A relay will be fine. You don't really need one with a commutation diode but it wouldn't hurt as it helps to prevent contact burning on the switches. (The diode reduces the back-emf voltage spike as the relay turns off ). It does add a complication though. A relay with a diode has to be wired in the right way round as the wiring convention for these relays is intended for negative earth systems. The cathode of the diode is always wired to pin 86 meaning this has to be the positive supply end and pin 85 the negative earthy end. On a posit

How many amps , 30 or 40 , should the new relay have to work and does it need a diode for protection ? The prewired sockets look like a good answer. Thanks for the advice Richard & B

Bonnet lined up better than expected. Any tips on fine tuning it? I don’t think I can line it up when it’s open.

Is the small tag for the coil feed of 12 volts when the engine starter is engaged? Have you identified the terminal for the Starter switch wiring to energise the solenoid coil? Car being after 1973 would have the pink ballast resistance wire as part of the loom.

I wonder what the locking nut is. As you doubtless know already, you need some special nuts for these wheels. David

Looks great Steven. Great colour!

Hello I usually follow the TR4/4a forum, but I can't immediately see what I need in the TR6 forum so apologise in advance if this is old ground. I have a few questions, but we both have owned and fixed TRs for a good few years. My friend needs to swap out the starter on his '6. The only upside is that it is LHD so column not in the way. Any hints - remove exhaust, get it out from underneath? He has a spare starter of unknown vintage, but we tried it with jump leads to the body and power terminals, then flashed onto the solenoid - it engaged and spun over well. We think it's ok,

Hello. Thank you both for the replies. The rails are all in good order. There is a tiny amount of surface rust below the window. The rivets are for brackets that must have been added to the inside in past to clamp the back down more securely. I have the fittings for the front edge. Danny

Salut, jeune homme. Car looks good. How did you get on ?

Or, (since the old relay does "click") then it just needs to be opened up (peel back the lip of aluminium) & clean up the contacts. be good for another 60 years Bob

As per title known good gearbox just removed from a TR250 for overdrive swap £250 buyer collects or arranges transport. Stuart.

Used to be that when we had a car come to us for repair the insurance company would send a agent/engineer to check the damage. Then with the advent of mobile phone camera's , we where asked to take a few pics and send them in. Had a 7 year old seat that was hit in the o/s/r , bent the tail gate a bit and smashed the light unit. Insurance said it was a uneconomical repair , paid the customer out , we bent the tailgate straight and fitted a new light didn't even need any paint. Guy was well pleased. Used the car for a couple of years the gave it to his son to learn in..

How about replacing the existing screw eyelet terminal loom for one with Lucar terminals already fitted? Then use a Durite Lucar terminal relay. Loom. Is pt no 131338. https://motaclan.com/product/loom-overdrive-switch-relaytr_131338_1688_0/ Alternative ADD a modern plug in relay with pre wired socket. Run the new wires of the pre wired socket to your existing relay eyelet terminals and use the old relay and its existing wiring as a junction box? Prewired socket and 30 amp modern relay with fuse. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164795155511?itmmeta=01HWFZYX6MDJ6V76P0SS

Is there not a way where you could drill the back plate from under the car then use a long centre punch to re- peen the back of the wheel stud. ? Turning the wheel to line the correct stud with your new hole that could be sealed later with a grommet.

Guys - I haven’t got any diffs left , certainly not any 3.45 ones - I may at a push be able to spare a 3.7 4A diff which was rebuilt by the Coxes with a new CWP - I’m not posting it so it will have to be collected from Colchester or can take to Malvern. Im sure Tom Cox will be able to sort you out if Mike cant cheers Rich Crewe-Read