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So what happening in your garage this weekend?

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Going to be welcoming home Yellow Peril on Saturday after a month long stay at my mates body shop, I was never happy with the bonnet and few other areas which after looking at the car on Tuesday is not far off concourse, plus the garage floor is complete in Mimosa Yellow. Pics when it happens

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Driveshafts & diff are coming out, clean around diff mounting area then weld in strengthening plates. Quick look at diff before probably deciding it needs swapping out due to clunking, already have CV driveshafts to fit. Once that lot's done, swap out thermostat for 88C to improve heating, close garage door & relax.

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17 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Clunking could be slack wire wheel caps

That's a good thing to check 

I found that one of the studs holding the wire wheel adapter was a bit to long and was preventing the wheel from seating correctly. This resulted in a clonk similar to a worn drive shaft or diff.

George 

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27 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Clunking could be slack wire wheel caps

This is when engaging OD really, I don't notice it at any other time.

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I’m hoping it’ll be dry enough to open the garage door and get the 6 out for a test spin with the new hood !

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Fitting this T7 Designs heater to the TR3 and writing about it for the Devon Group “In The Garage” newsletter. 

CF2ABD37-AED1-4475-9366-A766A6F4A647.jpeg

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9 hours ago, iani said:

This is when engaging OD really, I don't notice it at any other time.

Then why the diff?

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11 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

Fitting this T7 Designs heater to the TR3 and writing about it for the Devon Group “In The Garage” newsletter. 

CF2ABD37-AED1-4475-9366-A766A6F4A647.jpeg

Why the large piece of angle iron? I usually mount on those four corner holes with two brackets off the dash support rails

Stuart.

1937339779_011(2).thumb.JPG.94ca365d70b2ae8e071e0e43905560ce.JPG

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11 hours ago, brenda said:

Mine is not going out just yet, hopefully back on the road end February.

Mike  Redrose Group  

6FCA4B12-75FF-4906-9288-E966CD6C9B18.jpeg

 

Mike while your in there you might want to change those rack mounts for the safety version that has the shoulder to stop the rack moving over.Rack mount

Stuart.

 

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50 minutes ago, stuart said:

Why the large piece of angle iron? I usually mount on those four corner holes with two brackets off the dash support rails

Stuart.

1937339779_011(2).thumb.JPG.94ca365d70b2ae8e071e0e43905560ce.JPG

The angle is fitted to the heater cover plate with three 5mm bolts and sits on the dash supports. 
With the heater oriented like this I can reach the vents when strapped in to 4 point belts as they fall just under the supports, the water connections are at the top so the matrix is always full of water, there’s a better chance of bleeding the air effectively and it gives more room behind the dashboard electrics. 
The fan wires exit the air box through a plain hole on these heaters so it’s worth drilling the hole out, fitting a grommet and shrink wrapping a stop on the wire inside the box to prevent strain on the fan interface. 

Edited by Drewmotty

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Quote

Mike while your in there you might want to change those rack mounts for the safety version

Just had to do this myself when I realised the new quick rack didn't have locating lugs to stop it moving side to side

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6 hours ago, Z320 said:

Then why the diff?

Because that’s where the clunk sounds to be coming from, will drop it and have a look, the driveshafts are being swapped out anyway and I want to reinforce the diff pins, might as well have a look whilst it’s out.

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Oil pump now in and sump is on.

 

Then made a tool, a dummy drive shaft to run the oil pump before churning the crankshaft over from an old 9 1/2" TR head stud.  The dummy shaft will be driven by the electric drill running anti clockwise.  A TR head stud donated a quality bit of 1/2" steel to work with.

oil pump priming shaft.jpg

 

Wire locked the dynamo mounting bracket bolts - not pretty but functional

wire locked.jpg

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
clarify dummy oil pump shaft tool

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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Oil pump now in and sump is on.

 

Then made a tool, a dummy drive shaft to run the oil pump before churning the crankshaft over from an old 9 1/2" TR head stud.  The dummy shaft will be driven by the electric drill running anti clockwise.  A TR head stud donated a quality bit of 1/2" steel to work with.

oil pump priming shaft.jpg

 

Wire locked the dynamo mounting bracket bolts - not pretty but functional

wire locked.jpg

Cheers

Peter W

Be aware of washing the cam lube off

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90EDE313-5D15-4FEC-B956-4F9A5E769191.thumb.jpeg.fdf4d4a47f6d136b6b1c8ebb20111368.jpegCollecting my car tomorrow after some work done to the bodywork, my mate emailed me some pics

598027FA-50E5-4CC5-B013-4B3FEE8E3D9B.thumb.jpeg.e88e0df90ac006c2612bfaffba04db11.jpegF0C7BDC0-E436-470F-838D-A9E2B5D1EA39.thumb.jpeg.a537ace7409f4204f0b215742a93d7de.jpeg

Edited by Paul Hill

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3 hours ago, ntc said:

Be aware of washing the cam lube off

Thank you for the advice

Peter W

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Rolled the TR6 out of the garage and into the sunshine, hoping to warm up the mew vinyl roof !

Hoovered out all the roof refit debris , car looking great and ready for warmer weather ....

06F6943C-D952-4A7E-A1E7-1710FAEA5524.jpeg

8E601588-98A5-4F2D-8121-2E1B4ACA61A7.jpeg

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Took the ‘6 for an explore and got a couple of shots with my Mavic drone !

FC2FC3B6-128F-4AD5-A73F-8E4CAED25B59.jpeg

14DD0F40-98C6-42F6-AA9E-8AC8019CED69.png

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Hi Folks,

back to the wiper park switch.  I have spent ages trawling the interweb for ideas about slowing things down around the Mosfets.

Sadly I had no luck. However due to my lack of training in all things electronics very little puts me off and there is one heck of a lot of smoke to release.

The problem I had a few weeks ago was a schoolboy error. I have two transistors  connect side by side between 12V + and ground.

One is turned off and the other turned one - sadly not at the same time. There was a very small overlap in time and this causes a short circuit albeit for a very short time.

One of the good characteristics of a MOSFET is that it has almost no resistance when turn on - 5 or so MilliOhms  (0.005Ohms) - this equates to a dead short (almost)

Did you notice your house lights dimming the other week - that could have been me.

Any way after a great deal of head scratching (and other parts of my body) I had a brainwave:o.  So between the two transistors I have inserted a resistor.

Not a big one, just 5 Ohms but this is enough to limit the National grid draining short (should it happen).

So the two transistors each have a job. The first one (we will call it #1) drives the motor to get the gear wheel around to the park position. This handles the motor current - apprx 2amps.

The second transistor (yes that's it - #2) applies the regenerative braking of the armature.. If you short the slow speed motor wire (Red/Green) to earth when the motor is spinning with no power it will stop dead - very very dead.  The problem I have is that I have put a resistor (10 Ohms)  between the motor and earth. It stopped quite quickly but not dead stop.

I reduced this to 5 Ohms and it stops much much better. Tomorrow I shall put a 1 Ohms resistor in the circuit - this should be pretty stoppy.

A 1 ohm resistor will allow 12 amps to flow during a short - but !!! it will be for just a few milliseconds and the TRansistor will easily handle 30+ amps.

 

So did it work.  Yes. Even with the 5 ohm resistor in place it works very well.   So tomorrow I will try the 1 Ohm resistor and then consider how it all mounts on the motor.

I know most of you will not have a clue what I am rambling on about but there are a few here that will have a good smirk at my disasters.

I tend to do minimal with my circuits and this can be a recipe for a disaster. But a good sense of achievement can be had when you confound the experts.

When I finished I post the circuit diagram - just for a laugh.

 

Roger

 

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24 minutes ago, Bill944T said:

If that's an FC sign in your image, you might want to read 5(xxiii) in this!

Regards

Bill 

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1982/648/made

Thanks Bill.

i’ll have to check but i don’t think it is FC land.

i am of course registered and the drone is marked according to the new ( as of 1/12/2019) regulations.

steve

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

I know most of you will not have a clue what I am rambling on about but there are a few here that will have a good smirk at my disasters.

Not smirking Roger, rather commiserating.   I expect we've all had similar disasters in one way or another.  Looking forward to seeing your final working version now. 

 

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