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ed_h

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ed_h last won the day on June 25

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  • Location
    Nebraska, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    '74 TR6
    '69 GT6
    '57 MGA

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  1. Look closely at the lenses. Mine were marked LH and RH. Ed
  2. ed_h

    Callipers

    If you can easily lock up the brakes (and you should be able to) what benefit would there be to bigger callipers? Ed
  3. Caustic soda does indeed dissolve anodizing, but also attacks alumin(i)um, so monitor it carefully. The ideal burnisher for moving soft aluminum around is a hard, polished steel rod, rounded at the end. Ed
  4. Most carbs are made of a zinc aluminum alloy, and zinc is attacked by acids. So acids can be used to remove the tiniest layer of the surface of the metal where the stains are. It doesn't matter much what acid is used, as long as it isn't too strong, and the time is kept fairly short. Lemon juice contains citric acid. Vinegar would work, too. So would dilute muriatic or phosphoric, both easy to get. The heat just makes the reaction go faster. Just monitor the process closely. Let it go too far, and you can actually change critical dimensions. Ed
  5. I like it! If you carry a hydraulic bottle jack, it could double as the handle. Ed
  6. Keith-- The original alumin(i)um rings are clear anodized. The anodizing is very hard, which explains why it can be hard to change the surface sheen. The underlying metal is very soft though, and can be moved around pretty easily. My rings were pretty bad, and I didn't hold much hope of being able to use them, but after a little lot of trial and error, I was able to get them looking good enough to use. There are some more pictures and explanation near the bottom of this page: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-119/TR6-119.html Ed
  7. ed_h

    Wheel Balancing

    Balancing is best done with tides mounted, but you can have the wheels checked for runout at the tire bead flange. I did it myself with the bare wheels mounted on the car and a dial indicator. Four of my five wheels had run out less than 0.030, but one was about triple that, possibly due to hitting a curb or something. That wheel is my spare. Ed
  8. Powder coat can certainly fail, for most of the same reasons that paint can fail--sub-par materials, inadequate surface prep, or poor application. I too have seen instances of rust undermining PC, but that can happen with paint, too. In the cases I recall, the PC was applied too thick, which of course makes it brittle and prone to cracking or chipping. It is really easy to overdo it with a powdercoat gun, since there aren't the same surface cues for thickness that wet paint has. Powder coat thickness should run maybe 3x or so the thickness of a coat of paint, or about the same as a coat of primer and a couple of top coats. I understand and respect other opinions, but I really believe that well applied, quality PC is at least as durable as well applied, quality paint. For me, the decision usually comes down to the size of the part and how soon I need it. Ed
  9. I powder coat if it will fit in the oven, otherwise epoxy primer and good quality rattle can topcoat. Don't know about the Bondarust. We don't have it here. Ed
  10. You can just see it here. Ed
  11. You guys with the vented caps are lucky. On State-side cars, at least the later ones, the cap was sealed, and there was considerable plumbing and a charcoal canister to deal with. Ed
  12. Bondarust seems to be well thought of in the UK, but I don't think it is widely available on this side of the Atlantic. It appears to be a zinc chromate primer. Ed
  13. My first choice for first coat on anything automotive is usually a good two part epoxy. The TR6 frame has a lot of places that are very difficult to get at effectively with a spray gun though, so I brushed on two coats of POR15.
  14. The main rails should be flat from the front back to the diff area, where they "kick up" at the rear. I believe the rear ends of the rails should be about 4.5 inches above the plane of the rest of the cassis (verify this dimension before you take it as gospel). A long straight edge and a tape are all that is needed to check this, though it would be an excellent time to also check the frame for twist and racking. Ed
  15. Yes--cut out rusted areas back to sound metal, weld in patches, then replace the cruciate plate. Try to stabilize the frame through it all. The welding on the bottom side of the frame can tend to warp it a little so that the rear is lower than it should be. Some before/after measurements may be a good idea. Ed
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