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ed_h

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  • Location
    Nebraska, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    '74 TR6
    '69 GT6
    '57 MGA

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  1. ed_h

    Heater valve

    It's just a short piece of steel rod, drilled and tapped as necessary. Ed
  2. ed_h

    Heater valve

    Though they look sort of similar on the outside, the Four Seasons valve is more of a ball type valve, while the original has a rubber diaphragm that is pressed against a seat by an arm in a ramp. The Four Seasons is a much better design for the application and gives way better control. Ed
  3. ed_h

    Seat runners

    If a roller gets shifted, it can limit travel on that side. Ed
  4. These are all great solutions! I made these little two-part terminations for the drain line to help keep road crud out. A few more pics at http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-94/TR6-94.html Ed
  5. ed_h

    Seat runners

    So It's 9 cm between the two roller stops? This would limit the ROLLER travel to 9 cm, but the top track's travel would be more. I`m thinking twice as much without drawing it. Ed
  6. Putting it inside the bracket is genious! Wish I'd thought of that. Ed
  7. This seemed to work well for me. Comes in pre-formed strips. Never hardens. Ed
  8. Mike, I think you are talking about hydrogen embrittlement. Acids can do this to some hardened steels, including some spring steels. Molasses works by a different process called chelation, but like you say, its very slow. There are faster chelate products, like Evaporust. Acids and chelates are primarily for ferrous metals (iron and steel). Not sure what you meant by the carbon remark. Acids dont attack elemental carbon. Ed
  9. I'm sorry, Richard, I read mistakenly "exhaust manifold" in your original post. The acid treatment i mentioned is primarily to remove rust from steel or cast iron parts. It won't be as effective on aluminum. Alkaline cleaners are typically better on aluminum, but I find that mechanical cleaning usually works best-that's abrasives or blasting. Ed
  10. Looks like you are correct, Stuart. I will fix that next time it's on the lift. I think I was misled by the shape of the original line, which was probably distorted in storage. Thank you Ian and Stuart for pointing this out. Ed
  11. A mildish acid will clean it up. I use phosphoric, which a little stronger than citric. My tank isnt big enough to do the entire manifold at once. Ed
  12. Ian-- Yes, that's the fuel line. It does look a little exposed in the pic, doesn't it? In person, it doesn't look that bad. Either way, I think it's close to the original routing. And, yes, the auto-lube protection for the chassis doesnt seem to be working right now. I'm going to try to get by without it. Ed
  13. Its hard to beat a 2 post for access to most underside areas. it does take some side to side room. Ed
  14. It's a hydraulic application, so a hydraulic oil is appropriate. Jack oils and fork oils are hydraulic oils. I think ISO 46 is around 20 weight, and close to stock. Ed
  15. ed_h

    Rocker shaft

    I think Waldi is right about the rockers being cast iron--You get that characteristic powdery swarf when you drill them. I didn't notice evidence of an insert on the tip, though . The tips are hard, maybe case hardened. Removing 8 to 10 thousandths from the face didnt seem to expose soft material, just judging from a crude file test. Ed
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