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So what happening in your garage this weekend?


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Stuart-- Some better pics of the tubing straightener. The aluminum blocks are 7" x 1" x 0.5".  You should be able to closely estimate the other dimensions from those, though none are particularly

Morning all,  got the job finished gearbox out the only thing that got in the way was the flap on the bottom of the heater. Now got to clean all parts take off and tidy up things under the dash as the

Preparing my Ford Zodiac MK4 Executive for sale. Too may classic to look after!

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That a good mornings work, interior stripped and diff out. Take it easy with the gearbox tomorrow there heavier than you think. 

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5 minutes ago, brenda said:

And not sure y it’s in the TR6 area.

It’s where the thread was started by Daz in 2014. 

Perhaps the 6’s needed more work in those days :ph34r:

 

but you you are right, this thread would be great in the Tr Technical forum.

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Having got the crank, block & liners back from the machine shop after crank polish and liner height setting I start the trial assembly.

Peter W

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Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Hi Peter,

I used plastigage too.

But curious for its accuracy, I also measured the bores and journals with a caliper and then compared the clearances. To my surprise they were within 0.01 mm!

Be careful though not to have thick grease under the journal or shells.

Cheers,

Waldi

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We’ll done, its surprising how tricky it can be getting gearbox out. If need some help when its time to refit give us a ring 

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46 minutes ago, Jonathan Smith said:

We’ll done, its surprising how tricky it can be getting gearbox out. If need some help when its time to refit give us a ring 

Ditto

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Thought I'd repair the vent lid only to find it was too far gone so I went to try and order one, no chance none currently available so I thought I'd have a go at making one. Only one side of the hinge was worth saving. The lid is 18g and the hinge made from the remains of one of the sills. Four hours later and I'm happy with the fit just a pity the aftermarket rubber seal was a better fit.

thumbnail_IMG_1204.jpg.e9c6d7c2e68302161a5b3fbc921b5270.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1215.jpg.f69c4b560b2153eb93ab6c8a5a4f0167.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1209.jpg.8ce3cfeee34e17ca5ddb1414ef53f2ad.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1217.jpg.5975c400a75b39845d25d7ba4a7ccf1e.jpg

Edited by PodOne
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13 hours ago, PodOne said:

Thought I'd repair the vent lid only to find it was too far gone so I went to try and order one, no chance none currently available so I thought I'd have a go at making one. Only one side of the hinge was worth saving. The lid is 18g and the hinge made from the remains of one of the sills. Four hours later and I'm happy with the fit just a pity the aftermarket rubber seal was a better fit.

thumbnail_IMG_1204.jpg.e9c6d7c2e68302161a5b3fbc921b5270.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1215.jpg.f69c4b560b2153eb93ab6c8a5a4f0167.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1209.jpg.8ce3cfeee34e17ca5ddb1414ef53f2ad.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1217.jpg.5975c400a75b39845d25d7ba4a7ccf1e.jpg

That's superb! How do you form/round the edges? 

Gareth

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Hi Gareth

Used a bit of 20mm box section and ground each end to fit the contours of the old lid. The long lip sections were reproduced simply by hammering over the a length of angle iron clamped in a vice and then the contoured box slipped in clamed in the vice and folded over with a hammer. Made the lips about 4mm and then ground down to match the old lid. 

Andy

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2 hours ago, PodOne said:

Hi Gareth

Used a bit of 20mm box section and ground each end to fit the contours of the old lid. The long lip sections were reproduced simply by hammering over the a length of angle iron clamped in a vice and then the contoured box slipped in clamed in the vice and folded over with a hammer. Made the lips about 4mm and then ground down to match the old lid. 

Andy

That's brilliant, probably way better fit than any repro version too. 

Gareth

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Hi,

not in my garage but in my workshop I modified the bolts of a pair of hose clips to keep my TR free from allen head bolts.

 

While fixing them on the TR I remembered an advice of a friend to my water pump pulley:

he's an old rabbit (german saying) and told me it geta slack from time to time because the drill is worn and too wide for the shaft.

 

And indeed it is, or it was. I try to recondition it, interesting job, hope it works, I don't know.

3 photos deleted because of limited data base at the forum

 

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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14 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

not in my garage but in my workshop I modified the bolts of a pair of hose clips to keep my TR free from allen head bolts.

IMG_5874-b.JPG.d0064b19d7b6b2b578b7b79b0e0e0a26.JPG

While fixing them on the TR I remembered an advice of a friend to my water pump pulley:

he's an old rabbit (german saying) and told me it geta slack from time to time because the drill is worn and too wide for the shaft.

P1140370-b.JPG.9db928afb11673e8ada5208638a104d1.JPG

And indeed it is, or it was. I try to recondition it, interesting job, hope it works, I don't know.

P1140373-b.JPG.07b6e6289da4895dc2a81ee9aaaa5394.JPG

Ciao, Marco

How will you cut the woodruffe key slot, or are you making the thing an interference fit on the pump shaft?  If so do not forget to fit the stud  (3/8" unf one end, 3/8" unc the other and 3 " long - TE506241)  in place of the bolt that holds the pump on - Unless you already have that modification.

Cheers

Peter W

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Hi Peter,

I want to keep the pulley to disconnect from the pump,

My idea is to make a very tight fit (play was about 0.2 mm), the slot I do on my lathe.

Ciao, Marco

edit: by thw way, thanks for the advice with the two bolts, I will keep that in my mind 

Edited by Z320
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On 10/16/2019 at 7:50 PM, PodOne said:

Thought I'd repair the vent lid only to find it was too far gone so I went to try and order one, no chance none currently available so I thought I'd have a go at making one. Only one side of the hinge was worth saving. The lid is 18g and the hinge made from the remains of one of the sills. Four hours later and I'm happy with the fit just a pity the aftermarket rubber seal was a better fit.

thumbnail_IMG_1204.jpg.e9c6d7c2e68302161a5b3fbc921b5270.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1215.jpg.f69c4b560b2153eb93ab6c8a5a4f0167.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1209.jpg.8ce3cfeee34e17ca5ddb1414ef53f2ad.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1217.jpg.5975c400a75b39845d25d7ba4a7ccf1e.jpg

Hi Andy,

 that looks very good. How did you attach the hinge to the  skin. 

I made one out of Stainless using an Ali alloy former to give the shape.

I then convinced the aerofoil shop at BA that they needed to bond it with some fancy Araldite.

It has done 12+ years so far.

 

Roger

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Got back from Hol's on Friday morning.

Into the garage on Saturday morning.  Playing with some car electronics.

Why is it that you can make one circuit diagram that works but when laying down the components one can see improvements after every board. I think I am there though.

Today I spun up a TR6 glovebox lamp holder.

Because of the hand made nature of the item each one is very very slightly different (individual) but they all fit my gauge so all is well.

 

Roger

 

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Andy,

 that looks very good. How did you attach the hinge to the  skin. 

I made one out of Stainless using an Ali alloy former to give the shape.

I then convinced the aerofoil shop at BA that they needed to bond it with some fancy Araldite.

It has done 12+ years so far.

 

Roger

Hi Roger

Thanks.

Just three plug welds the original had only two and ground them flat.

Andy

 

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Finished repairs to the cooling system. 

New County water pump, thermostat, two hoses and repaired radiator.  Cleaned out the overflow bottle, and flushed the cooling system (1 x flushing additive, 3 x tap water and 2 x distilled water) before filling with 50/50 mix of distilled water and Castrol glycol coolant.  Took most of a day but a good test run after showed everything is now working exactly as it should with no leaks.

Now trying to dismantle to old water pump with a view to rebuilding it (I know they're not designed to be rebuilt - but God loves a trier).  Proving to be more difficult than I expected. Getting it apart is a real challenge...

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