had17462 Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Mark it's always more work never easy this restoration game but it's fun! Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ShaunC Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Recored radiator fitted. New drive shaft boots fitted. The previous ones lasted about a year. Another example of poor quality rubber parts! New ones are Bastuck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Finally booked the MOT for 1.July, sorted insurance and filled out v55 for sending off to Swansea for the UK registration of my US imported TR6, last job? before MOT is to sort the thrust washers for correct end float, measured 0.012 end float so oilpan had to come off, new thrust washers ordered and received, should give end float 0.005 so happy with that, just need to install them and put the oilpan back on and I am hopefully ready for 1.July.... Magnus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Finally booked the MOT for 1.July, sorted insurance and filled out v55 for sending off to Swansea for the UK registration of my US imported TR6, last job? before MOT is to sort the thrust washers for correct end float, measured 0.012 end float so oilpan had to come off, new thrust washers ordered and received, should give end float 0.005 so happy with that, just need to install them and put the oilpan back on and I am hopefully ready for 1.July.... Magnus Look at/do the BE while you are in there as a precaution. You will see the mains when you take the thrusts out. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRsixchris Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 New Rad fitted. New temp sender and thermostat. Car now runs happily with temp needle in centre of gauge. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) Look at/do the BE while you are in there as a precaution. You will see the mains when you take the thrusts out. Peter W Oil pressure seems good so I didn't really think about the BE, this is a picture of the bearing cap I took off to get to the thrust washers out, when I measure the shell it is 0,071 all the way around but as so much copper is showing I guess it should be replaced? Will have a look at the BE shells as well and order some if needed. Is this a fiddly job? If I replace this mains shell, how do I get out the upper part, same way as taking out the thrust washers, I imagine it can be difficult to get out with the crank pressing agains it? I guess the BE shells are easier as I can get to the upper shells by pushing up the pistons a bit. Also, how do I know if an oversize bearing shell is already fitted? I guess they will always have the number stamped at the back? This particular shell has the numbers 149082 and 5106 stamped at the back and a round stamp with a "v" shaped marking on the inside, I assume this would be the original shell. After some research I found that this is a Vandervell shell and since it hasn't got an oversize mark it should be std. Magnus Edited June 19, 2016 by TRseks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Your engine will appreciate new big and main bearings.......just in the nick of time. ? Peter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Oil pressure seems good so I didn't really think about the BE, this is a picture of the bearing cap I took off to get to the thrust washers out, when I measure the shell it is 0,071 all the way around but as so much copper is showing I guess it should be replaced? Will have a look at the BE shells as well and order some if needed. Is this a fiddly job? If I replace this mains shell, how do I get out the upper part, same way as taking out the thrust washers, I imagine it can be difficult to get out with the crank pressing agains it? I guess the BE shells are easier as I can get to the upper shells by pushing up the pistons a bit. Also, how do I know if an oversize bearing shell is already fitted? I guess they will always have the number stamped at the back? This particular shell has the numbers 149082 and 5106 stamped at the back and a round stamp with a "v" shaped marking on the inside, I assume this would be the original shell. After some research I found that this is a Vandervell shell and since it hasn't got an oversize mark it should be std. Magnus Magnus, You can do main and big ends with crank in situ. The worst bit is the oil dripping on your face. A thick feeler strip will often push the shells around the journal, and with big ends turning the crank with a jacked up rear wheel helps ( plugs out, in gear). The front MB needs the bridge piece removing, and is often not changed, so its good idea to do that too. Do one at a time so the crank is supported by the others. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Thanks Peter, just got one of the big end shells out too, it is std size and it was not as bad as the rear main shell but still probably a good idea to replace. Have ordered the shells and will look forward to get it done for piece in mind... Will also have a look at the oil pump. Magnus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Magnus, the experts on here will know better than me. Make sure you get the right quality shells/bearings. From my experience, I reckon you'll notice the bottom end is quiter. Best regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Does the inner surface of your wing look like this....? I guess it's ready for blasting then. This is what I found last week in the strip prior to repaint on my car. All fenders are at the blaster/stripper/primer's now, due for collection this week. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle Gordon Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 This weekend I was going to be looking at why I can still detect a faint rumble from the engine, even after renewing the big ends, main bearings, thrust washers, and timing gear. Instead, I came down with food poisoning :-/ Might get a chance to check the shells over the next few evenings, but it puts a serious damper on trying to get more miles onto the car before the big road trip in 2 weeks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) On 6/20/2016 at 8:38 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Does the inner surface of your wing look like this....? I guess it's ready for blasting then. This is what I found last week in the strip prior to repaint on my car. All fenders are at the blaster/stripper/primer's now, due for collection this week. Peter W Rear Wing.JPG They did but not anymore, picked mine up last week Edited April 14, 2020 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Does the inner surface of your wing look like this....? I guess it's ready for blasting then. This is what I found last week in the strip prior to repaint on my car. All fenders are at the blaster/stripper/primer's now, due for collection this week. Peter W Rear Wing.JPG Thats not bad Pete at least you have the return flanges left! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 They did but not anymore, picked mine up last week20160620_224347.jpg Thats a very good wing there, luxury compared to what I normally find by the time they get here! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 All 4 wings were new in 1993 when Colchester Institute rebuilt the shell as a project for Practical Classics. Now blasted internally and on the rusty flanges, bare metal covered with an etch primer by the blasters. Not cheap but a nice job done that saves me hours of grinding and brushing. There was an E type and Escort Mk 1 shells in there when I dropped off the wings and apron. Who Did It? - They are in Shepperton Middx. http://www.decorrosion.com/contact Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 Magnus, You can do main and big ends with crank in situ. The worst bit is the oil dripping on your face. A thick feeler strip will often push the shells around the journal, and with big ends turning the crank with a jacked up rear wheel helps ( plugs out, in gear). The front MB needs the bridge piece removing, and is often not changed, so its good idea to do that too. Do one at a time so the crank is supported by the others. Peter Finished this job today, also tok apart the oil pump to check if it was within tolerances (it was) filled it up with oil and cranked it without plugs to get oil pressure which I got after 20-30 seconds so not bad. Didn't notice any difference other than that the engine was able to idle at 7-800, before it struggled a bit with that so I guess the engine runs smoother. Oil pressure is also higher with 50 at idle, probably a bit less when the engine gets really hot over a longer period. One week until MOT 1.July so fingers crossed, can't wait to drive the car after nearly 3.5 years restauration... Magnus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Sand blasted the 5 budget locks and the vent lid mechanism using a fertiliser bag, playpit sand and a Lidl £8.99 sand blasting gun - Slow but effective. Primed using an air brush spray & BondaPrimer, black paint later. Discovered my compressor cut off switch has gone sick - ordered a replacement. Renewed all the bearings in my spare rear axle and reshimmed as required - found that the pinion thread was mangled so salvaged it with a thread file. Finished building my Christmas present - a Hemingway kit knurling tool http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Knurling_Tool.html Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stoker Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hi Peter Hope you didn't go for one of the cheap Chinese cut off switches that infest the internet. I did to my cost and it very quickly ended up in the bin. Finished up buying a decent one which from memory was about £28, it had a rotary switch as opposed to a push button but I am sorry I can't remember the make. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Butty Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Being a total newbie to restoration I found myself in a position whereby I had restored the chassis without realising that the body needs to be restored on my nicely painted chassis (not happening). So after many weeks I have finally finished the body rotisserie, Let’s hope it works ! BTW Does anyone have a use for the jig that I used to transfer the chassis measurements to the rotisserie as I am just going to cut it up for the metal? Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bodiam Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 (edited) Hi, Rob, That jig looks a fine piece of work - I do hope someone comes along to make use of it, would be a great shame to cut it up. Have you considered offering it in the Buy, Sell, Trade part of the forum? Good luck with the rest of your restoration, John Edited June 27, 2016 by Bodiam Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thats a very good wing there, luxury compared to what I normally find by the time they get here! Stuart. Hi Stuart, unfortunately not all the panels are in such good shape . I had a fair amount of surface rust which as left a very rough finish after treatment. I am thinking about using lead to fill these areas .Not having much experience with body filler/leading wondered if this was a wise decision. I have a couple of areas which need cutting out and repairing what spec steel should I be looking at for the repairs? Regards Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 (edited) Never lead any unsupported areas so no more than 3" in from an edge or a swage line as it will warp the life out of the panel, any repairs you will need 18 gauge steel or 1.2mm. Stuart. Edited June 30, 2016 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 Trying to sort this out: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 (edited) Ed Knowing your attention to detail. You'll make grand job, selfishly i'm glad mine aren't that bad. Keep up the good work. Going to use your tank cleaning methodon mine !!. Best Mark Edited April 14, 2020 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.