Paul Hill Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Going to be welcoming home Yellow Peril on Saturday after a month long stay at my mates body shop, I was never happy with the bonnet and few other areas which after looking at the car on Tuesday is not far off concourse, plus the garage floor is complete in Mimosa Yellow. Pics when it happens Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Driveshafts & diff are coming out, clean around diff mounting area then weld in strengthening plates. Quick look at diff before probably deciding it needs swapping out due to clunking, already have CV driveshafts to fit. Once that lot's done, swap out thermostat for 88C to improve heating, close garage door & relax. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Clunking could be slack wire wheel caps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 17 minutes ago, Z320 said: Clunking could be slack wire wheel caps That's a good thing to check I found that one of the studs holding the wire wheel adapter was a bit to long and was preventing the wheel from seating correctly. This resulted in a clonk similar to a worn drive shaft or diff. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 27 minutes ago, Z320 said: Clunking could be slack wire wheel caps This is when engaging OD really, I don't notice it at any other time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 I’m hoping it’ll be dry enough to open the garage door and get the 6 out for a test spin with the new hood ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Mine is not going out just yet, hopefully back on the road end February. Mike Redrose Group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Fitting this T7 Designs heater to the TR3 and writing about it for the Devon Group “In The Garage” newsletter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 9 hours ago, iani said: This is when engaging OD really, I don't notice it at any other time. Then why the diff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 11 hours ago, Drewmotty said: Fitting this T7 Designs heater to the TR3 and writing about it for the Devon Group “In The Garage” newsletter. Why the large piece of angle iron? I usually mount on those four corner holes with two brackets off the dash support rails Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 11 hours ago, brenda said: Mine is not going out just yet, hopefully back on the road end February. Mike Redrose Group Mike while your in there you might want to change those rack mounts for the safety version that has the shoulder to stop the rack moving over.Rack mount Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) 50 minutes ago, stuart said: Why the large piece of angle iron? I usually mount on those four corner holes with two brackets off the dash support rails Stuart. The angle is fitted to the heater cover plate with three 5mm bolts and sits on the dash supports. With the heater oriented like this I can reach the vents when strapped in to 4 point belts as they fall just under the supports, the water connections are at the top so the matrix is always full of water, there’s a better chance of bleeding the air effectively and it gives more room behind the dashboard electrics. The fan wires exit the air box through a plain hole on these heaters so it’s worth drilling the hole out, fitting a grommet and shrink wrapping a stop on the wire inside the box to prevent strain on the fan interface. Edited January 17, 2020 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Quote Mike while your in there you might want to change those rack mounts for the safety version Just had to do this myself when I realised the new quick rack didn't have locating lugs to stop it moving side to side Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 6 hours ago, Z320 said: Then why the diff? Because that’s where the clunk sounds to be coming from, will drop it and have a look, the driveshafts are being swapped out anyway and I want to reinforce the diff pins, might as well have a look whilst it’s out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) Oil pump now in and sump is on. Then made a tool, a dummy drive shaft to run the oil pump before churning the crankshaft over from an old 9 1/2" TR head stud. The dummy shaft will be driven by the electric drill running anti clockwise. A TR head stud donated a quality bit of 1/2" steel to work with. Wire locked the dynamo mounting bracket bolts - not pretty but functional Cheers Peter W Edited January 17, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT clarify dummy oil pump shaft tool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Oil pump now in and sump is on. Then made a tool, a dummy drive shaft to run the oil pump before churning the crankshaft over from an old 9 1/2" TR head stud. The dummy shaft will be driven by the electric drill running anti clockwise. A TR head stud donated a quality bit of 1/2" steel to work with. Wire locked the dynamo mounting bracket bolts - not pretty but functional Cheers Peter W Be aware of washing the cam lube off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Hill Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) Collecting my car tomorrow after some work done to the bodywork, my mate emailed me some pics Edited January 17, 2020 by Paul Hill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 3 hours ago, ntc said: Be aware of washing the cam lube off Thank you for the advice Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Rolled the TR6 out of the garage and into the sunshine, hoping to warm up the mew vinyl roof ! Hoovered out all the roof refit debris , car looking great and ready for warmer weather .... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Took the ‘6 for an explore and got a couple of shots with my Mavic drone ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Tut!! Boys toys Roger PS - can I have one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Hi Folks, back to the wiper park switch. I have spent ages trawling the interweb for ideas about slowing things down around the Mosfets. Sadly I had no luck. However due to my lack of training in all things electronics very little puts me off and there is one heck of a lot of smoke to release. The problem I had a few weeks ago was a schoolboy error. I have two transistors connect side by side between 12V + and ground. One is turned off and the other turned one - sadly not at the same time. There was a very small overlap in time and this causes a short circuit albeit for a very short time. One of the good characteristics of a MOSFET is that it has almost no resistance when turn on - 5 or so MilliOhms (0.005Ohms) - this equates to a dead short (almost) Did you notice your house lights dimming the other week - that could have been me. Any way after a great deal of head scratching (and other parts of my body) I had a brainwave. So between the two transistors I have inserted a resistor. Not a big one, just 5 Ohms but this is enough to limit the National grid draining short (should it happen). So the two transistors each have a job. The first one (we will call it #1) drives the motor to get the gear wheel around to the park position. This handles the motor current - apprx 2amps. The second transistor (yes that's it - #2) applies the regenerative braking of the armature.. If you short the slow speed motor wire (Red/Green) to earth when the motor is spinning with no power it will stop dead - very very dead. The problem I have is that I have put a resistor (10 Ohms) between the motor and earth. It stopped quite quickly but not dead stop. I reduced this to 5 Ohms and it stops much much better. Tomorrow I shall put a 1 Ohms resistor in the circuit - this should be pretty stoppy. A 1 ohm resistor will allow 12 amps to flow during a short - but !!! it will be for just a few milliseconds and the TRansistor will easily handle 30+ amps. So did it work. Yes. Even with the 5 ohm resistor in place it works very well. So tomorrow I will try the 1 Ohm resistor and then consider how it all mounts on the motor. I know most of you will not have a clue what I am rambling on about but there are a few here that will have a good smirk at my disasters. I tend to do minimal with my circuits and this can be a recipe for a disaster. But a good sense of achievement can be had when you confound the experts. When I finished I post the circuit diagram - just for a laugh. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 If that's an FC sign in your image, you might want to read 5(xxiii) in this! Regards Bill https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1982/648/made Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 24 minutes ago, Bill944T said: If that's an FC sign in your image, you might want to read 5(xxiii) in this! Regards Bill https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1982/648/made Thanks Bill. i’ll have to check but i don’t think it is FC land. i am of course registered and the drone is marked according to the new ( as of 1/12/2019) regulations. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 1 hour ago, RogerH said: I know most of you will not have a clue what I am rambling on about but there are a few here that will have a good smirk at my disasters. Not smirking Roger, rather commiserating. I expect we've all had similar disasters in one way or another. Looking forward to seeing your final working version now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.