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Showing results for 'engine oil'.
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I’ve started to assemble my engine now that everything is back from the machinist. crank is in (thrust washers are in and to spec) main bearing gap checked and now buttoned up. New liners and pistons in. Camshaft in everything has a liberal coating of assembly oil my question is… do people just use the paper gaskets readily available for our cars or do people use the newer modern RTV or equivalent ? obviously I have hammered out the imperfections on the lip of the sump and the timing chest so that they are nice and flat….but what do people use on their cars? And with what
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I'm re-installing the new loom in the 4a after the major earth/meltdown and I'm puzzled by one of the wires at the front of the engine bay. It's the solid green wire. I took pictures but they don't quite show what I'm looking for and the wiring schematic doesn't answer the question; I have a main loom feed to L & R indicators and side repeaters (GW & GR) but I can't work out what the green wire would do? Much appreciated David
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Anyone know of a decent TR engine builder in the south east? My engine is all new and rebuild but has an imbalance in the bottom end. I’m told that the crank bearing caps are out of line (no idea why or how as it’s been through so many builds) As such engine needs to come out, stripped and line bored etc. Any thoughts welcomed.
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Folks one of my winter projects was to move the ignition coil from the side of the block, to the left inner wheel arch. I always thought having the coil on the block subjected it to a lot of heat, plus there were already two holes on the inner arch that looked factory to me that fit the coil bracket, (does anyone else have these holes on their car?), so I thought “why not”? Anyway, today I drove the car for the first time this year and when I got home I found a misting of oil on the side of the block, the oil head/filter, the distributor pedestal, basically that entire area. With the engi -
Yes its a Limousine engine, loads of torque will pull away in top gear. Stuart.
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Do you know about the 5.4 liter 6 cylinder engine? Should I make him an offer?
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There's nothing wrong with the original nylon lines. I've only had to replace one- no. 5 caught on fire while I was trying to bleed the injector with the engine running. Don't know what ignited it but I now bleed with the engine off, plugs out.
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For what it is worth my 4A has BP7HS plugs (cooler than BP6HS that used to cause engine to run on). Plug gap on mine is 0.025 inch. Dwell angle currently between 57 and 60 degrees. You have 0.032 inch gap on plugs. Various views on correct gap for early cars but 0.025 seems to be acceptable. Larger gap requires more energy than smaller for a spark so might indicate coil faulty. Had a problem with mine a week ago. Car has not been used much this year so far. Would not start, plugs sooty. Cleaned plugs and charged battery. Eventually got it going but very rough. Stopped engine, plugs out a
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As your engine is modified why are you going away from the Webers? Stuart.
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Thanks for the replies guys. Rich thanks for the offer but I’m sticking with SU’s, tempting Stuart but I’m after something a bit cheaper and simpler. I will have it set up Ona rolling road as the engine is modified, so I should be looking for a long neck manifold ? cheers Mark
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If everything is generally correct, but not perfect, this can’t stop the TR 4 cylinder engine running
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Not by much though (he ventured to say) I don't think it would stop the engine running. Bob
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If Mark's engine is modified, and his mention of Webers seems to suggest this could be so, then standard Strombergs might need to be set on a rolling road and would likely require different needles, for which I believe there is a far greater range available for SUs. Perhaps someone who has Strombergs on a modified motor could comment. Ian Cornish
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Just looking to get a new battery for my 4A. At present the terminals are engine side with + on drivers side (RHD car). Trying to find this terminal arrangement (T1) for a battery of suitable size (50-60Ah 450-600CCA) is proving a bit of an issue. Those I have seen today have the + on front right of battery (T0 arrangement) and mine is front left. I have read that up to the 4A the terminals were bulkhead side and from 5 onwards were engine side. The batteries I have seen would have to be fitted with terminals next to bulkhead with battery label facing away from engine. Not too fussed about ori
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Devs If you have good fuel in the carbs then he cause is almost certainly ignition, as others have indicated. The best way, I have found, is to first check you have spark then check the timing. Checking for spark is easy and I am sure you have done so. I find a timing light the best and quickest toll and not expensive. All you need to do is hook it up and see if it flashes when you try to start the engine. If no spark, fix the problem. If you have spark then timing is the most probable. Check your timing. Pull no 1 plug and get the engine with No 1 piston at the top of its stroke and
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I had my engine rebuilt 12 years ago by https://www.maynardenginesltd.co.uk/. Recommend by some of the race guys. near Stroud Glos. sooooooooo pleased with it still. steve
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These people helped me when I needed some engine work carried out.
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Luckily I have had my cars for more than 25 years and made modifications some time ago. It would seem they are most concerned about modified rather than replaced items and I think this will keep the government’s nose out of most our rebuilding work. However, is a tr4 engine in a tr2 like for like or modified? Girdling axle? I have reported all modifications to my insurer’s religiously and I’m glad I have as I will have an audit trail when our hobby becomes out of step with future attitudes. My cars are always taxed and insured and constantly in use from a government perspective. I saved -
Enginuity in Acton are very good. Rebuilt my engine 6 years ago and it's been brilliant ever since.
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I am going to fit an oil catch tank to the inner wing of my 3A. I will need to make one of these fittings to push into the hole in the side of the block with a AN10 thread on it. Not a problem to turn one on the lathe with a thread on but does anyone know the diameter of the hole in the block where it pushes into? I will run a second tube to a mounting on the side of the rocker cover using black braided nylon tubing with AN10 fittings. This will hopefully provide better breathing to the engine especially the top as that has a tiny hole in the cap and hopefully prevent extra oil being
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The actual timing with Pertronix should be the same as with points. It's the engine which determines what advance is required, not the type of ignition. The thing about pertronix and other such systems is that they sit in a different place within the dizzy than the points do, so if you fit them you have to re-adjust the timing point but to the same advance figure.
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I moved my coil some years ago and I had to fit bolts into the holes left in the side of the engine to stop oil coming out. I put a copper washer under each bolt head. Keith -
Hi Devs, how did you adjust the ignition when all was in pieces and fitted with a Pertronix unit? If a Pertronix Ignitior 1 is fitted take care the ignition is not switched on while the engine is off, I remember the limit is 1 minute. Ciao, Marco
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No, the coil bracket holes likely aren't meant for oil and you might have an oil leak. The holes are there to mount the coil, not for engine oil. The oil mist and "spitting" around the holes suggest a leak there. It's best to check if there are any damaged parts or missing seals around those holes that could be causing the oil to come out. -
Probably open a bag or worms with this one but here goes. Whilst the car is up on axle stands with the diff out I thought I would drain the engine oil take the sump off see if it needs straightening and refit to again try and stop some more of my cars identity crisis. It thinks it's the Torrey Canyon. However what oil to use I have no idea whats in it or for how long. In the past I have used Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil in the Avenger but it was a high revving semi comp engine. TRGB suggest Penrite 20w/60 but the problem is our engines need more than 5 litres and I am not sure you can get P
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