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I just assumed they must be overloaded, as I too have approached Revival Fabrications via without response to enquire about process for ordering. I don't do Facebook so will likely try a phone call. Cheers

The master cylinder for clutch and brake are both Girling CV type with a 3/4” bore. Yes same as many other cars like the LandRover. The push rod is unique in its length. If buying a cheaper item there are a couple of things to check/note Bore size. Threaded pipe sizes. Push rod length ( use your old one) Where it was made and who by. Crucial as there were some damn right dangerous ones around not long ago. The only way you can confirm that is by stripping them and comparing the piston assemblies of a genuine to the repro. If possible buy genuine Girling (NOS

Find on Pages 8 & 9 23 rd July 2022 onwards into August Note the machined cut out to let the nipple pass the hinge leaf.

Thanks for the offer Marco......My problem has been solved with the generous assistance of this forum.

Also keep in mind.....Establish your desired ride height as height will change the camber. Do you have adjustable TA brackets?

Racestorations UK have a good reputation for quality.

Make sure the doors are aligned in height with the wings along the swage line before drilling.

just jumping on the back of this thread about clutch master cylinder (as I couldn't find anything else related) are the brake and clutch masters the same bore diameter? and are they the same as Land Rover series 2? I'm sure when I built mine there was quite a difference in price between the "badges" for the same products

Click on to enlarge I have the same switch, I switched the live battery terminal, as shown. The small terminals interrupt the volts going to the coil, to ensure the engine stops when switched off even if ignition switch is still on. The switch lever is positioned below the glove box for easy access. Bob

I agree that this needs looking at but add that some modern rear lights can also cause glare to following traffic, especially on those modern cars with full width LED light bars across the back. When they brake as well it’s just blinding. I similarly find the quantity, brightness and frequency of parked police vehicles to be an issue. Yes they’re there to get noticed and make you slow down but with so many lamps flashing they’re far too blinding. That MSN link of Keith mentions Specsavers anti glare driving glasses. While browsing in M&S a couple of weeks ago I noted that thei

FYI - There’s a company here in the US called Patton Machine that offers a throttle body kit for the TR4. https://www.pattonmachine.com/shop/four-4-cylinder-engine-throttle-body-injection-kit-with-distributor-conversion-ignition-mapping-for-two-2-small-or-medium-bodied-carbs/ Jim

Dave, I also found the rubber strips weren’t in contact with the floor and chassis after I’d fitted the body on what were the correct mounting pads to suit my car. I bought a selection of different thicknesses of rubber strip from Woolies and used what was needed in each section. I filled the complete chassis length between each pad/shim and even ended up with 2 different thicknesses on top of each other in some areas to get complete support for the floors. Dave McD

The switch has two separate functions. The heavy connections are to isolate the battery from the electrical system, but that won't stop the engine if it is running since the alternator will continue to supply power to the car, and if that is the case it will also be powering any electrical short that might have occurred. The smaller contacts are intended to be wired into the ignition system so that switching off also removes power from that circuit so stopping the engine and any output from the alternator. The contacts labelled '1' are closed with the switch off and open with it on. The

I had my TR3a converted using a Jenvey heritage weber look-a-like throttle bodies and an Emerald ECU. I was very pleased with the set up, easy to start, smooth and torquey with an added 20bhp and improved fuel consumption. The car had a reasonably well tuned motor with 89mm liners producing 115bhp prior to the conversion. This was a before and after measurement on the same rolling road. The car has left me now although is in the hands of a member on this forum. Tim

Steven, You need to use an appropriately sized centre drill to start the hole off before you use the twist drill. There is less risk of the drill slipping with a centre drill. Graham

Hi All After great success converting my 6 to EFI I’m starting to look at doing my newly purchased 4a, previously I used Emerald and there K6 ecu. Has anyone had any success in convthere 4a ? Cheers Mark

Hi Steve, the wheel arch liners are worth their weight in gold. Revington not cheap but easier to fit, Honeybourne cheaper but not so good. They stop all the road muck getting up into the far corners of the wheel arch area. Rust TRap. Roger

Rod, If you want it to cut everything off then fit it in the earth lead from the battery. One of the big connectors goes to the battery, the other to the car body (Where the other end of the earth lead had been.) Does that lever come off? (Some do). If so I'd glue it on permanently or pin it. The last thing you want before the apocalypse is to find your knob has dropped off. I'd just ignore the two smaller connectors. Charlie

Please could someone advise me on how to fit this kill switch? It has two connectors for large cables and on the base two connections marked '1' and another two marked '2'. I want to fit it in my 1958 TR3A, now negative earth with an alternator and dummy regulator box. I will be putting it in the cockpit within easy reach in case of an emergency (there's nothing like the smell of burning plastic in the morning . . . ) I'd like it to completely shut down all the electrics. Many Thanks Rod

It may be worth speaking to Peter cox gearboxes I found him and his son Tom very helpful

Thanks.

Thanks Roger. I’ve. It decided on the liners. Are they worthwhile?

Steve when I did it I used masking tape along the panels ,marked where I wanted the holes new drill bit all good, hopefully Stuart will answer as he does this often Nick

Hi Steve, before painting is the safest way. However Put masking tape where you are going to drill in case you slip. 1/8" drill. Make sure they are all in line - you do not want to have too many failed holes. You shouldn't need sealant around the rear lights. Are you fitting wheel arch liners? Roger

I have seen other aftermarket synchros built poorly, out of round, too narrow etc but that usually results in inadequate braking of the gear cone and crunching changes but getting stuck on the cone is a new one one me..