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Nigel C

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  1. yes, sadly the guy has to sell due to a change in circumstances (and nothing to do with meeting other Peerli owners!). He's done a lot of work and spent a a fare amount.
  2. you can check for a leaky inlet gaskets by spraying brake cleaner around the edges and see if your revs go up.......along with your engine bay if you're not careful! I've done it a few times ( once whilst a Le Mans scrutineer was stood next to me at 3 in the morning, his wide grin translated well) you have to be very careful but it does find any leaks
  3. Thanks for the overwhelming support here guys
  4. Hi Hamish, The Peerless runs two Lucas electric pumps as standard and plated over the mechanical pump aperture in the block. I picked up a pair of NOS Lucas pumps for MGB and thinking they feed about the same sized engine fitted them. Had no real issues until I had it set up on a rolling road where he found it was running dry flat out in top OD after about 30 seconds. I have to say I have never got that high for that long! but changed them for Facet pumps. The pressure they send out meant I had to fit a filter King with a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure. Also(N/A to you) They pushed fuel past each other and filled each others tanks! so I had to put non return valves in too One possible cheap fix (that I have done since!!) would be to fit new E type spec floats in the float chambers. These are made form sort of black plastic and are resistant to Ethanol but where the real win is, they are smaller than standard brass ones so you get more fuel in the float chamber in the first place
  5. Hi all, I'm looking for a full frontal image of a Doretti for a project I'm doing for the Register. If anyone out there has a good quality image they can send me it would be much appreciated. No registrations marque/dtails will be used or given out I assure you. Please send to gt2@peerless-gt.co.uk
  6. I'm going to show my complete ignorance here but surely these could/should be supplied with the a short loom attached? not expect the purchaser to strip the thing down, solder wires on and reassemble......... I'll go and get my coat and stand here in anticipation................
  7. great info, thanks Mickey. I'm going down the replacement/rebuild route as I'm still running this engine whilst trying to sort the other one out. I've got a steel crank ( being reground), rods and forged pistons, lighten flywheel, dipped block already stacked up waiting and looking at which cam to use (any advice would be most helpful!) as it should rev to 6,500. I've also got an ali head that looks to have been well worked (valves/ports etc) and I've had that decked and tested and all looks good.......just not to sure weather to really go for it or not....would it be reliable enough?...would the whole thing be reliable enough!
  8. Where you will see the Peerless GT Le Mans car on display! please come over and say hello to Ken & Christine and take a look at this amazing car that, to my knowledge, has never been restored or been off the road for more than a week in 60 years!
  9. I'm going to throw a question in at this point. Is it wise/worth while boring out used standard triumph liners in stead of buying new? I ask this because when I bought new liners 65,000 miles ago I was told by supplier that " of curse these are only any good for about 60,000 miles before you need to replace and rebuild as they are largely made out of monkey metal". I was shocked/disappointed/p*ss*d off to be honest...but as it turns out, he was right as it does seem tired now and I am, at this point in time sweeping together enough parts to build another engine so I can just swap it over. I have a set of ST 86mm liners and thought of machining out to 88mm? I have mates who restore motorcycles and they seem to machine liners as the norm? sorry for the hijack!
  10. keep checking the depth of the impellor to housing inner face eveytime you replace the pump as this tolerance is critical IME!
  11. he had his feet firmly plated in the Peerless camp as well! We will not see the likes of him again, good friend and a great enthusiast of all things that burnt fuel at a great rate of notts!
  12. Just got back from working away to find out this very sad news but also relieved in away as illness in anyway did not suite the man. Had some great late night "chats" on a varied selection of campsites over the years.......... I think the only bit of me that isn't sorry is my liver...... Love to Diane & Tom and there's still plenty of room in "Peerless Towers" at the IWE if you fancy a natter. Caption: "f**k me Tom, they even race MG's with open back driving gloves"
  13. Thanks for the offer Stuart, very kind of you. Firstly though, were do I get my hands on one of Christian's seal kits? I@ll gladly be advised down this route as this is what forums are all about, hands on knowledge and personal product testing
  14. interestingly, I have only just bought a TT1032 from DMG/Moss as I'm trying to get enough parts together to build another engine. This thread has made me go off to the back of the car to look at what I have actually got as I was going to drop it off at the machining guys as I remembered from 25 years ago it has to be machined! It says on the invoice "this kit requires machining of the crankshaft prior to installation and for this reason it is not considered a DIY operation" The fitting instructions sheet that comes with the kit is headed "Part No CNA418K" It goes on to say "regrind the scroll area and also drill 2no extra oil drain holes in the bottom of the rear main cap, (one either side of the original) at a similar angle. This will remove all unnecessary pressure from the seal and will not affect your oil pressure" also, also, I've just noticed on your link that you need a fitting tool for this seal conversion? doesn't say anything about it on the invoice or the fitting instructions confused of Bromsgrove.............
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