john.r.davies Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Idea came up in another thread - tools you have modified or even fabricated yourself, that may be useful to others. Here's two of mine: Angled spanners. I have Malcolm Jones's 'overhead' Pi throttle linkage, that has droplinks down to the butterfly spindles, between the throttle bodies. They need to be adjusted for length, and have small spherical bearing at each end, with opposite threads, so the link bar can be turned to do that. But the lock nut at the bottom is inaccessible without these 8 and 10mm spanners, whose open ends have been cut off and welded back on at an angle. Limited access puller. The radiator is right in front of the engine on a Vitesse, no space to use a convenional tripod puller. I made this to do the job. It's a bar with short 'jaws' at each end, bolted on so that the distance from the jaw tip to the bar can be adjusted by spacer washers, for different thicknesses of pulley. Place it across the pulley and undo the pulley bolt. As the bolt comes out, the pressure on the bar pulls the pulley off. A useful trick is to place a small bead of weld exactly where the bolt head centre presses on the bar, which stops it wandering off centre. What have you got? JOhn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 I made up this puller from a wire wheel adapter for the rear hubs.................................it didn't work but then again, it didn't break, which was the fate of a couple I tried before. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Not really a modified tool, bit a neat trick i thought! Method to separate the diff side shaft tapers so as to be able to replace the seals, worked well and saved a trip to use a press. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Steve To get my hubs off I made up two plates 30mm thick (that was all I had) and flame cut out a large hole ( half in each plate) and finally ground it to suit the bearing diameter so that it was fully supported when I put it under a 10 Ton press, to prevent buckeling . If you have read William's book he warns you that they come out with a hell of a bang, so leave the axle nut on a few turns so that the half shafts don't hit the floor when they come off.. I have toyed with the idea of modifying the engine crane cylinder and the main frame to make up such a press. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 I watched Glen Hewett (Protek) dismantle my rear hub last week. He removed the split pin, undid the nut and removed the washer. Then he replaced the nut, but reversed, so that the slots for the split pin were near the hub. He wound the nut to the point where it was exactly flush with the end of the half shaft, thus protecting the thread and leaving a small gap (about washer thickness) between hub and nut. It took just over 10 tons to separate hub and half shaft, and it certainly creates an impressive bang! Glen says that he has seen 20 tons required to separate some hubs. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Hi John, nothing too clever - it is just a spanner. I made it to hold the hub in order to tighten the nuts up. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Roger the weeds, the weeds!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 That's called 'habitat' in Lunnon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Hi John, nothing too clever - it is just a spanner. I made it to hold the hub in order to tighten the nuts up. Roger P1030127a.jpg HI Roger Exactly like mine to be able to pull the nut up to 125ft/lbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 I watched Glen Hewett (Protek) dismantle my rear hub last week. He removed the split pin, undid the nut and removed the washer. Then he replaced the nut, but reversed, so that the slots for the split pin were near the hub. He wound the nut to the point where it was exactly flush with the end of the half shaft, thus protecting the thread and leaving a small gap (about washer thickness) between hub and nut. It took just over 10 tons to separate hub and half shaft, and it certainly creates an impressive bang! Glen says that he has seen 20 tons required to separate some hubs. Ian Cornish Hi Ian Never thought of reversing the castle nut to bring full bearing area to the press cylinder, good idea! but otherwise as per glen's method. Quite a bang ain't it? I was using my local garage's press, and when it went bang the one assistant mechanic came running in to see if something was wrong. DAve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks for the suggestions, I bought a pair of hubs after the studs pulled out of one of them, I replaced the failed one and have been trying to remove the other now and again ever since ( it was 16 years ago!!) so I'll get it done one day I'll grind through the hub along the line of the woodruff key. I found with the other one that once you cut through some of the hub there'll be enough flex to pop it off. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 HI Roger Exactly like mine to be able to pull the nut up to 125ft/lbs. Or you could ask someone to hold their foot in the brake ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Or you could ask someone to hold their foot in the brake ! ...........and then you have to take her shopping, or for a drink and a meal, mow the lawn etc etc. Easier to use a spanner. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 +1 Roger!! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Wire wheel balancing adaptor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Pressure testing a radiator using a mountain bike inner tube cut and tie wrapped to the radiator connections and pumped up with a foot pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Balancer.JPG Wire wheel balancing adaptor. Hi Andrew, Like minds.......... I did exactly the same thing. Works very well once sorted for the particular balancing machine. I also like the inner tube idea. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 ...........and then you have to take her shopping, or for a drink and a meal, mow the lawn etc etc. Easier to use a spanner. Roger Oh yea VERY costly advice on my part. Should know better ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Andrew and Roger Mine is the same but it is fixed to a free standing frame I put on the bench, then put a wheel up for cleaning the spokes etc./ back and front, Also good for static wheel balance test taken at 12 positions around the wheel using the nozzle for the points. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 (edited) Advice please. Fabric roof / tonneau.c I am thinking of attaching (welding) one of the roof dot fastener, cup and punch to the jaws of a G clamp to give better control of the riveting action. Has anyone done this? Will it work? Will it work better? Alan Edited June 26, 2017 by barkerwilliams Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Hi Alan, tell us how you get on as i was thinking of doing thew same - I was thinking of using a mole wrench Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Advice please. Fabric roof / tonneau.c I am thinking of attaching (welding) one of the roof dot fastener, cup and punch to the jaws of a G clamp to give better control of the riveting action. Has anyone done this? Will it work? Will it work better? Alan Probably better to do it to a pair of Mole grips Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I done it with a small G Clamp,I cut the Floating Pad off and Drilled and Tapped the longer part,I glued the Cup to the flat of the Clamp and made up a better Lever for Tighting and Loosening the Clamp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 (edited) Rhine's request (http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/62608-tr6-pushrods-anyone/&do=findComment&comment=536155) reminded me of these - dummy cam follower-cum-pushrods for timing the camshaft. Two hard wood dowels, wrapped in insulating tape to slide smoothly in the cam follower bores. Pop dial guages on top and it's even easier to do "Equal lift on overlap" John Edited June 26, 2017 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 For home made tools for jobs you may not have known even existed, take a stroll through this site: http://www.homemadetools.net/ Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.