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boxofbits

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About boxofbits

  • Birthday October 16

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  1. Hi Hamish Would that have been caused indirectly by broken thrust washer? Kevin
  2. Hi Bob It was a 'stock' pic purely because it showed the brass plug, but is a TR6 Engine according to this site... https://www.google.com/search?q=core+plug+triumph+tr&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj7i9O1mvTxAhXREcAKHSXXBkkQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=775#imgrc=uyUKt3HvnzNeTM Regards Kevin
  3. Brass core plugs are available, but not as common in use as mild steel as Bob says. I used red hermatite as a sealant, but it is worth giving the opening a good clean with Emery to ensure any deposits due to leakage are removed. Kevin
  4. Hi Andy A lot depends on whether there are small openings where the rails are welded/ joined I suppose, but good point. On my car the holes have been drilled on the side of the rail, but about 1” up, which is probably not the best position. As you say the lowest point on the rail, on the underside, with the car standing is the only way it will self drain when stationary if water does happen to get in, which it probably will even if as condensate. There are also no holes on the rear arm mounting member on mine, so if it did find a way in it won’t drain. I’ll be drilling a couple o
  5. Hi Iain The holes in my chassis have been left unplugged for about 25 years. Like houses it is probably a good idea to allow some airflow into boxes in areas. Kevin
  6. Hi Roger Thats interesting as my chassis has some holes drilled on the main longitudinal chassis rails , but you are right about the little bulkheads! In some direction it’ll only insert about 2” if that. I guess the most important areas are the rear rails and those that branch of at an angle to meet the outriggers for rear arm mounts. Originally the chassis was restored by a company I think in Lancashire and they said they’d oiled it, but that was around 1995.
  7. Afternoon all I should be out driving on a day like this but decided to give the 4a some chassis protection instead! I’ve got a gun with a 360 degree nozzle and about 1 metre of tubing. Has anyone done this recently and if so what are the best access points in the chassis without drilling holes? I notice inserting the probe at the rear it soon balks in the cross tube inside the legs, so wonder if there are specific places where best coverage is achieved? Many thanks in advance. Kevin
  8. That could be down to your tyre size wall depth when compared to factory sizing, which might affect number of revolutions per mile? Normally they over read by around 10% if anything. But you can always have the speedometer recalibrated. Kevin
  9. In addition to above, you might also check the Caliper pistons or the pads in the body of the caliper are not seizing, especially if you’ve bled and pumped the brakes quite hard. Kevin
  10. Interesting implements. I always use my bench grinder to sharpen my garage pencil. Get the rotation and angle right…perfect. Get it wrong and…..! Kevin
  11. Hi Andy Thanks for that and I didn’t know you could get polyurethane spacers in different thicknesses. I was going to phone the supplier today but didn’t eventually get around to it. When I took the spring out yesterday( n/s rear) I realised I’d already fitted polyurethane spacers. The spacers (3mm shims) supplied by TR Shop, which they apparently got from Moss, were plastic but too large by diameter. More for the front spring I thought but same part number for front and rear? I had a look around in the garage yesterday as I wanted to get it back together and found one of the old ru
  12. Good afternoon all Ive obtained a spring spacer for my 4a to adjust n/s rear ride height slightly but found the 3mm spacers supplied (Moss) do not fit in the spring cradle on the rear chassis or in the arm spring cup ( irs car). They appear to be a larger diameter more suited to the front springs. However the Moss catalogue gives the same part number MGS 40904 for front and rear? Has anyone come across this before please as I’m sure there ought to be a smaller diameter shim for the narrower 3 3/4” spring, and correct part number if poss. Thanks Kevin
  13. Lovely photo, early 70’s I’d assume with that Sprint behind it. Never had an Elan but did have a friend Tim Smith with a genuine C Reg Mk1 Lotus Cortina. It was re-sprayed red but confusingly was an ‘Aeroflow’ model but fitted with the early A frame suspension, which was apparently adapted from the Lotus 7. I didn’t realise until recently how many changes Lotus made to that car with different trim and seats, alloy gearbox and diff parts, kingposts, shorter struts, and aluminium bonnet, boot and doors etc, and I can’t help wondering what a Lotus Triumph TR4 might have been had Chapman re-manufa
  14. Hi Roger Good work, nice to see it coming together. Bit like a bolt that you’ve got between your fingertips and refuses to start for ages, then comes out of your fingers, clanks and drops down into the crossmember somewhere and the washers come off and disappear . But after a tea and 15 minutes it goes in first time! Out of interest which door weather seals did you use? Some time back my repro seals were getting a bit tatty. Moss offered me both OEM and repro. I chose OEM but found they had hardened quite a bit and hence don’t think they were as good as the repro’s. Regards
  15. One of the problems caused by ‘ heavy’ return springs are excessive throttle spindle wear, and if using a cable, snapped cables. Morris Cooper S’s for instance have two additional return springs hooked to the air filter casing which always caused cable breakages. As long as the spring has enough tension to close a freely rotating butterfly to the closed position without chatter and give ‘feel’ to the pedal , that’s all that should be needed. Kevin
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