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boxofbits

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About boxofbits

  • Birthday October 16

Profile Information

  • Location
    Eastbourne, East Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4a 1967
    Austin Cooper S 1966
    Morris Minor Van 1971 currently under resto
    Triumph TR6 1969 Needing Light Restoration

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  1. Yes Pete, not sure what was shaking the most..the camera or the engine! Andrew , he is fortunate to have two synchrometers but it still seemed to be running like a sack of at the end! They look like new carbs to me but I would have thought he would be best to tune the mixture with the filters in place. Kevin
  2. Sounds like the door got caught by a gust of wind or similar to do that damage? Only positive outcome is to remove door and strip and have it re-welded and painted. I don’t think it’s a part which is bolted in but spot welded. Kevin
  3. boxofbits

    Rev Counter

    Hi Darren Just out of interest how are you measuring the true RPM? Kevin
  4. If that turns out to be the case probably best to snap off the stud, drill out the nut and surrounding metal with a hole saw, and MIG or TIG in a new plate with a nut welded to it. Obviously difficult to generate much heat if the car is built up. Kevin
  5. Hi Andy I would be surprised if you didn’t have bottoming out issues. The alloy spacers are probably the type fitted on the front chassis to body mountings. IF the springs are standard you would not need bump stops so close to the chassis as the springs are soft anyway. To get them out put a large pair of pipe grips or ‘mole’ grips on the circular disc at the top of the bump stop to loosen. They normally come out. Kevin
  6. If you are experiencing judder then that seems to rule out hydraulics, and if the pedal pressure has become variable that would suggest the cover or plate or possible release bearing mechanism/ shaft etc is faulty. I doubt the plate is hanging on the splines as you do not have engagement issues? It could an outside chance of contamination with oil but that wouldn’t explain variable pedal pressure. You shouldn’t need to ‘clean’ a clutch by slipping it. I would suggest some imminent mechanical failure though worthwhile checking the hydraulics and release functions first. Kevin
  7. Hi Graham I use a stainless cross box single left side exit exhaust on my 4a. It does resonate slightly as the material does not absorb sound as much as mild steel, but it is comfortable even on long journeys. Unless it has a label on it I doubt you’d know where it came from, but mine was supplied by Moss. It does give better clearance as I’ve never grounded it but having said that my brother managed it several times in a matter of days, so depends on driving style also! Kevin
  8. Ian fantastic clarity and resolution for around 1958, and I wonder if this was taken on the same occasion, though in mono? In many ways I prefer analogue to the digital process. I know Leica and Kodak cameras were a big name then. I hadn't noticed Don's explanation, but these would make great prints. I believe Motor Graphs sell some of them, but I've not come across high res photos on the net of the TR4 or TR4a on the production line, TR6 yes. Kevin
  9. Great photos. It looks like the second one shows some sort of tour going on for bigwigs at Triumph or Main Dealers maybe? Especially as the second TR3a has its rear wheel only loosely screwed on, and no production workers in sight in the foreground? I wonder does the TR Register make High Quality prints of these interesting photos available to purchase ? Kevin
  10. Hi Ed Yes agree a true e-coat should be okay. I did check with BMH by phone today, as I am about to order another panel anyway, and they said all their panels are professional e-coat. On the other hand I bought some Hendrick made panels for another marque and it looks like primer but is only a dusting of black paint and comes off easily. As you say, probably best to leave the e-coat and let the paint shop decide whether to remove or not. Kevin
  11. If you are talking about BMH Heritage panels they are already electrophoretically dip primed panels, as used by Ford etc. It is not a shipping protective paint as many pattern panel manufacturers use but a quality priming process. I checked with Heritage myself after rubbing down a Mini wing and realised it was more than just a dusting of black paint. I doubt you’d get that quality from a spray gun and shouldn’t need to remove it. Kevin
  12. and by far the cheapest solution ..joking aside I did have a similar problem on the front edge of my bonnet (TR4a). I didn’t write ‘ouch’ on it but it was a small repair but a complete panel respray unfortunately..
  13. I agree with Waldi that’s the quickest solution without dismantling. But blowing in and trying to blend with an aerosol is going to give an ‘alright’ finish - possibly!..at best . It’s a minor dent but not a minor job to do correctly unfortunately. Kevin
  14. As Mick says lead loading is an option but I don't think you could pull it out with a slide hammer in my opinion, as right on the edge it will just stretch the metal the washer is attached to and not pull out the dent uniformly. It's an awkward dent, and I would think you would have to cut that piece out and make up/ fit a repair section. All options are worth a go though. It would probably mean wing off for best results and certainly a panel respray. Kevin
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