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boxofbits

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About boxofbits

  • Birthday October 16

Profile Information

  • Location
    Eastbourne, East Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4a 1967
    Austin Cooper S 1966
    Morris Minor Van 1971 currently under resto
    Triumph TR6 1969 Needing Light Restoration

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  1. boxofbits

    Replacement seats in a 6

    I would say + for Paul Bishop seats. But best to let Paul supply and re-upholster rather than supply old seats yourself. You’ll have more carriage costs that way alone. MX5, especially Mk2 are probably best route to go. I fitted them for the RBRR and only had one dead leg out of the two when we returned which wasn’t bad going over 2000 miles! Kevin
  2. boxofbits

    Wiper wheelbox

    37H sounds like a BMC/BL part number for a Mini or BMC1100? Kevin PS Just looked and does appear to be right one on the net. I managed to get 2 boxed BL one’s for a Cooper I rebuilt with exactly the same part number..
  3. boxofbits

    Rear Trailing Arm Mounting

    Hi Andrew I have large 3/8” plain washers but not a plate as such, but I can see what you mean in that the chassis could possibly crack around the washers and pull through. Think it should have been reinforced there from the factory. Plates sound a good idea. Kevin
  4. boxofbits

    Rear Trailing Arm Mounting

    Thanks Stuart I’ve got a feeling the bolts are probably original with a fat washer and nyloc type nut. I found the inner bushing bolt won’t go any other way than with the bolthead going through from the tunnel side as it hits the chassis the other way round but the outer bolt I put through from the inside, so a compromise as it’s a bit more fiddly to pull the bracket and bolts away from the outer side due to the bodywork. Thanks Kevin
  5. boxofbits

    Rear Trailing Arm Mounting

    Good morning all I'm refitting the trailing arm on my TR4a and noted that in order to remove it I had to remove the brackets from the chassis member due to the bushing bolts being inserted from the outside of the bush. I can see the logic that of the nut comes off the bolt won't come out. But the spares diagram shows a bolt going in from the inside. Wondered if anyone can confirm original factory set up, and the length of the original bolts if possible. The ones I have may be original but appear quite long with a pointed nose to the bolt. many thanks Kevin
  6. boxofbits

    Diff output shaft locking nuts

    You could try Namric based in Brighton who will do mail order. Not sure what size it is but a single 1/2" UNF nyloc nut is 0.64 pence. Maybe worth ordering a few spare nuts and washers at the same time to make the postage worthwhile! https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/U.N.F._Nuts.html Kevin
  7. boxofbits

    CLUNK FROM THE FRONT END

    I rebuilt my rack recently as opposed to replacing and the bush in the left side of the rack tube was quite worn, as per Stuart's comment. I also found the tie rod ball joints weren't shimmed properly with too much play. It did clonk under various movements prior to that, including the splines on the pinion shaft which was also replaced. is the round bush/ spacer stop present in the lower trunnions to prevent too much lock? Mine were missing. Kevin
  8. boxofbits

    TR5 rear springs on a TR4a

    Hi John If this is of help to your question to Stuart I believe the brackets you should be starting with are 2 notch ( up) on the outer and 1 notch (up) for the inner. You might not necessarily get the factory camber reading when these are fitted due to chassis variation/ repairs etc but once measured use that as a guide to see what bracket configuration you might need for a ‘ relative’ camber change. I would say about 1/2 to 3/4 max negative would be a comfortable unladen figure to go for. If you need to correct ride height after you can fit spring spacers, but like my car ensure first that body to chassis spacing is right first and even on left-to-right otherwise you’ll just be building in more errors. There are 36 combinations though many of them are unusable under normal circumstances I would have thought. Use Stuart’s link above Kevin
  9. boxofbits

    TR5 rear springs on a TR4a

    Interesting and we’ll written article. Thanks Kevin
  10. boxofbits

    TR5 rear springs on a TR4a

    Many thanks Stuart for clarifying this, and Roy thanks for the info. I'm not keen on adjustable brackets either, but it looks like if I swap the passenger side brackets round it'll go towards negative, so I'll try that and see how I get on. Interesting to know there is a 3 notch bracket with the lowest hole ( was this made available for the TR6 for some reason)? This bracket should then give provision for further adjustment if the swap round doesn't quite give enough. Thanks again for advice Regards Kevin
  11. boxofbits

    TR5 rear springs on a TR4a

    Thanks Stuart, so with the stiffer springs on the TR5, approx 350lb, you would assume it would have to sit higher due to the higher rate spring, unless they altered the chassis/ trailing arm etc to bring it down. My TR4a sat a good 2” Higher with 350lb springs. I’ve also got 3/4 degree + camber on the pass side and about 1/2 degree neg on the driver side. It seems camber is completely dictated by how precise the chassis/ trailing arm mounting is which I’d imagine you’d be lucky if it was spot on, especially as most chassis’ have been reconditioned at least once, unless it’s a brand new CTM unit? Another question is if you’re doing a resto and it’s not right, do you normally fit adjustable trailing arm brackets to get it right? I’ve checked the brackets btw with 2 notches outer and 1 notch inner facing up Regards Kevin
  12. boxofbits

    TR5 rear springs on a TR4a

    I’ve gone back to 310 lb as the ride height looks right. The TR5 is obviously the same body but if they used the same chassis arrangement then I assume they run much higher and with positive camber. The rear spring rate of the TR5 is I believe around 350lb Kevin
  13. boxofbits

    TR5 rear springs on a TR4a

    Afternoon All Ive just tried a pair of 350lb rear springs on my TR4a which I believe are roughly equivalent to TR5. I’ve now got about 1/2-3/4 degree positive camber. Driving it you can feel the spring is overcoming the damper on rebound so you get a further pitch from the suspension. I can see why Triumph had a problem sorting this as the ride is much better and more controlled damping wise with the standard 310lb spring. The ride height is also too high. Has anyone else modified the rear springs without compromising ride height and camber and were uprated dampers also fitted? regards Kevin
  14. boxofbits

    Emission Control Valve Fitting Issue

    Tbh the valve sits too low like mine did, and that's why the lower hose is kinked virtually flat at the bottom. Oil will get into it at that level like my own. The best way around it is to fit the proper hoses, see where the valve sits, and then make a bracket to suit that height and position. The spring on the original part was only sprung wire, similar to voltage regulators, but works fine. Kevin
  15. boxofbits

    Emission Control Valve Fitting Issue

    No problem, thanks Rich
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