graeme Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 I have two tools that I made/modified for use with J type overdrives. A piece of flat bar with two roll pins for removing the three plugs in the sump. For the solenoid I have a special spanner with the thickness ground down and the jaws filed to the correct size. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Gearbox crane. Brilliant bit of kit. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) Hi John, the mega ramps. 21" clearance underneath and easily stored like Russian dolls. Roger Edited June 27, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) Hi Alan, tell us how you get on as i was thinking of doing the same - I was thinking of using a mole wrench Roger Roof snap clamp now built. Minimalist engineering involved. https://www.dropbox.com/s/f1sooj1v5h6uu0f/Roger.pdf?dl=0 Alan Edited June 27, 2017 by barkerwilliams Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Do you not find that the threads in the cheap G clamps are a bit "wobbley" ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Hello All, The first time I removed a set of liners from the block it took about 6 hours and lots of bashing using an aluminium drift. The next time I needed to do it I built this tool in an hour, and just wound the liners out. The only tricky bit was making the brass disc that has to be just less than the OD of the liner with a slight lip that fits inside the liner. It’s made of brass simply because I had an old brass gear from an ancient photocopier that I bought 40 years ago thinking that it would “Come in useful one day”… You thread the rod up through the liner, put the bar on top and add the washer and nut. You then put blocks of wood between he top of the engine block and the ends of the square tube, sitting to allow free exit of the liner. Tighten the nut and out pops the liner. Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Hi Alan, nice and simple. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Bob, Yes. But the "real" tool is £190 and that makes my knees wobble. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) Maun Industries do a press stud tool which is just a bit pricey at £ 400.00 http://www.maunindustries.com/pressed-stud-plier/ I may have one for sale shortly though at a good discount. Cheers Ian Edited June 27, 2017 by TR8IAN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LGFromage Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Balancer.JPG Wire wheel balancing adaptor. This is my balancer for wire wheels for use in the comfort of your own garage. It is all mechanical and does static balancing first with dynamic after. Works a treat. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Nice one Tim but can you balance on that unicycle. I have one in my garage and the bruises to show I've tried ???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 This is my balancer for wire wheels for use in the comfort of your own garage. It is all mechanical and does static balancing first with dynamic after. Works a treat. Tim Hi Tim How do you know where to put any weights and how much to put on? Yesterday I had one of my wheels rebalanced at a tyre merchant that had the proper cones (4 different sizes for different wheels) and was charged only 6 Euros. One old weight was removed and a slightly bigger one attached right next to the one that came off, Interesting to what the screen measuring and locating the place to put the new weight, and on the inside rim. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Hi Tim How do you know where to put any weights and how much to put on? Yesterday I had one of my wheels rebalanced at a tyre merchant that had the proper cones (4 different sizes for different wheels) and was charged only 6 Euros. One old weight was removed and a slightly bigger one attached right next to the one that came off, Interesting to what the screen measuring and locating the place to put the new weight, and on the inside rim. Dave Tim Read Watch for what the screen Measuring etc...... Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Hi Dave, if you hit the edit button (bottom right corner) you can correct the original text quite easily without raising a new post. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 I made these cones up a few years ago to fit the local tyre shops machine with 30mm bore. Some tyre shops have a cone which might do for back inside bore but have never found one with female taper to fit front of wheel. Other tip I have found most ballance machines can be set to position weights on inside of wheel only (works fine on wires up to 5.5J) and if modern stick on weights are used then none show on outside of wheel. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LGFromage Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Nice one Tim but can you balance on that unicycle. I have one in my garage and the bruises to show I've tried No to balancing on the unicycle but will keep practicing! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LGFromage Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Hi Tim How do you know where to put any weights and how much to put on? Yesterday I had one of my wheels rebalanced at a tyre merchant that had the proper cones (4 different sizes for different wheels) and was charged only 6 Euros. One old weight was removed and a slightly bigger one attached right next to the one that came off, Interesting to what the screen measuring and locating the place to put the new weight, and on the inside rim. Dave Weight size is determined by trial and error and location is by chalk mark on the black painted section on the axle extension for both static and dynamic balance. Whilst it gives the right result the process is a bit slower than tyre shop machines. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 No to balancing on the unicycle but will keep practicing! Tim had one for a while - good for dining in nights. Needed a wall to lean against to get going. One of our canberra pilots could get going by just hanging on to the wheel. He used to ride it out to the aircraft. gave mine to an army dentist who wanted to get into it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Tthick plastic bags greased inside and sandwiched between two pieces of plywood placed under the front wheels makes good turntables for steering geometry checks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) The weirdest one I've had to make is shown below. It is a while back but if I remember correctly it was to let me adjust the tappets on the Merc 250. The locking nut was buried down near the top of the block, this thing let you get a torsion wrench into a position where it was usable. (Thought I would have chucked it away by now, but apparently still have it. As useful as the proverbial bull's mammaries now.) Edited June 30, 2017 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Tthick plastic bags greased inside and sandwiched between two pieces of plywood placed under the front wheels makes good turntables for steering geometry checks. Andrew That´s a good tip ---thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 The weirdest one I've had to make is shown below. It is a while back but if I remember correctly it was to let me adjust the tappets on the Merc 250. The locking nut was buried down near the top of the block, this thing let you get a torsion wrench into a position where it was usable. (Thought I would have chucked it away by now, but apparently still have it. As useful as the proverbial bull's mammaries now.) Same idea as my bent spanners, post 1, jim! Bit rich for Merc to nick it! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 But I'm nicking ideas all the time. I saw this in a YouTube video of the Bentley engine-building laboratory (not 'workshop' - wish mine was a clean) When installing the pistons, you lower it, conrod first, into the bore. The big end lacks the lower part, and there are sharp edges where the two halves join, but you want to place it onto the journal, without scratching it. Bentley put two long sticks in place of the bolts, so that the big end guides itself onto the journal: It happens just 1:30 into the video. Wow! I can do that! Length of Teflon rod, 10mm, off ebay (£9). Cut to length, thread one end, round off the other (Teflon is lovely to work with - cuts like wood, takes a thread like metal) Easy-peasy, just like Bentley! BUT! Triumph big ends are oblique, unlike the Bentley ones, so long rods won't allow you to get the big end in and pass the piston into the bore. Unequal length Teflon rods will allow this and still protect the journal and guide the big end in. Andof course, the rods can be unscrewed and fitted to the next to be fitted. 60mm and 15mm long, (plus threads) seem about right.# JOhn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) Hi John, at aprx 1.40 the fitter uses a device for inserting the piston into the block. That is how I do mine. (I did it first). Mine is slightly more simple in design but is quite neat. On my block I found that the top of the bore had quite a chamfer on it. So machined the opposite chamfer onto the alignment device. It holds it central and stops the rings jamming in the block chamfer. This pic shows the tapering bore to compress the rings This pic shows the reverse chamfer to sit in the top of the block Roger Edited June 30, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Roger, Do you market those rings? Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.