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john.r.davies

Modified and fabricated tools - Show & Tell

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My machinist mate kindly worked in another tool for me, a wee adaptation for rotating the camshaft with cyl head & rocker gear on (under load) if you need to chack/adjust valve timing. I suppose you could simply use two 5/16" bolts and caw over with a bar or screwdriver, but that would risk damaging the female threads in the camshaft.

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Hi Niall,

that is beautiful, a work of art - what is it? :P

 

Roger

Alan's Post @ 20 will give you the Clue and you may need it some Day

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Here is a crude tool that I made to replace a valve spring without removing the head. It was made with whatever scrap metal that was handy. The tool was made for a TR6, but could easily be adapted to other applications.

The upper piece is 3/8"X3\4"X10" and drilled to fit over the rocker shaft studs

The lower piece is from the same size bar, but about 8.5" length. It is drilled 3/4" dia., about 2.125" from the end. I had to weld a 3/8" strip on each side of the hole. If a wider piece of material was used, this wouldn't have been necessary.

Anyway, in use, the upper piece is placed on the rocker studs and the nuts replaced. The end of the lower piece is place under the upper piece and over the valve collar. It is then pushed down to free the valve keepers (a magnetic tool is handy). I should add that first a piece of 1/4" poly rope is place in the cylinder and the piston is raised to contact the valve. This prevents the valve from disappearing into the cylinder. Also, cover all openings in the head with rags.

I have used this tool several times and am confident I could change a broken valve spring on the roadside in necessary. Probably not likely to happen.

Berry

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Edited by dingle

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So you don't have to, here's post 20:

Advice please. Fabric roof / tonneau.c

I am thinking of attaching (welding) one of the roof dot fastener, cup and punch to the jaws of a G clamp to give better control of the riveting action. Has anyone done this? Will it work? Will it work better?

Following Richard's lovely bit of kit for turning a loaded camshaft, I made one to turn the crank, when setting valve clearances.

May not be as useful in a TR6 as a Vitesse thanks to more room, and it's so crude I'll not post a pic.

Socket to fit the crank pulley bolt.

Drilled and tapped to take a stud, at a slight angle to a radius, so that handle is away from other bits , sparing knuckles.

Piece of tube, tapped to take the stud, as the handle.

Stays on the pulley bolt better than a spanner, freeing both hands for the fine work.

JOhn

Edited by john.r.davies

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May not be as useful in a TR6 as a Vitesse thanks to more room, and it's so crude I'll not post a pic.




Oh come on John, you said it yourself, "Show & Tell"!

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Hoist by my own modesty, and idleness!

It was late when I posted before, I wasn't about to go outside and take a pic.

And I'm working this morning, so I'll respond to your demand asap!

 

John

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Hi Folks,

simply showing pics and saying what they are is Easy Peasy.

 

So it's competition time - what is this for?

 

There is a little clue in the picture.

 

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Roger

 

 

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It's to fit carpet securing fasteners to the floor underneath.

That the body is so massive in relation the needle/probe,I think it's used thusly:

 

Position the tool with the carpet positioned. Strike it with a BFH, and lo! A mark on the floor to show where the fastener should be fitted.

 

John

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Hi Niall/John,

far too easy :(

Indeed it is to find the centre of the male part of the popper so that the female part aligns.

I have the male poppers attached with M3 rivnuts and cross head M3 screws.

 

Finding the centre with the point is easy. The hard part is centreing the three pronged clamp.

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Tom,

I felt it wriggling around inside my head.

 

It took a lathe and a hammer to get it out.

 

If you want one I'll make you one.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger ~

 

Yes please I'd like one ~ but I must pay for the materials and postage etc ~ OK?

 

All the very best to you and Suzanne ~

 

Tom.

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Finally got around to a pic of my crank spanner (socket)

 

Stud into socket side, length of pipe tapped onto that, but pipe not long enough, so some threaded rod itno the other end.

Plus the end of the riod taped to spare the skin on my hand.

 

There, I said it was crude, nothing like Roger's beautifully made device, but it works!

John

 

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Hi John,

I am a master of bodging (nothing to do with chairs)

When I was at BA I used to make prototype inspection rigs out of chip board.

On one occasion I took one chippy rig to a machine shop to be made properly. I said to the chap can you make this.

He said no.

We have to use metal. boom boom. He made into reality what my dreams in chip board were..

 

 

One comment on your creation.

As it is a rigid (not a ratchet) remember to remove it before starting the engine.

Tie a string to it with a red flag like we do on the aircraft.

 

And yes I have started my engine with the ratchet still attached.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

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I have one of those, "Remove before flight" flags on the safety pin of my fire extinguisher.

Spiffing joke, what?

 

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A scrutineer was withering when I forgot to pull it out!

 

John

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and that is the ultimate !

 

Edit: 45 bids....

Edited by Geko

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Oil leak catch pan. Not sure if this qualifies as "tool" but nonetheless very handy

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