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Showing results for 'engine oil'.
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Just mounted the chassis on its supports on the bench, ready for the body rebuild, and have a few questions which I'm hoping you can help me with. 1st. would it be a good idea to load the chassis with say sand bags to simulate the engine and gearbox weight (as suggested by Roger Williams in his book- 'How to restore Triumph TR5/250 & 6').? 2nd. I'll probably find out in due course, but looking at the attached photos - what goes into the threaded holes on the top T shirt? there doesn't seem to be any sort of bolt or screw shown on the parts diagram. (circled) 3rd. This is
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I concur. Fit engine gearbox and all suspension to make a rolling chassis. Regards Harry
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Folks one of my winter projects was to move the ignition coil from the side of the block, to the left inner wheel arch. I always thought having the coil on the block subjected it to a lot of heat, plus there were already two holes on the inner arch that looked factory to me that fit the coil bracket, (does anyone else have these holes on their car?), so I thought “why not”? Anyway, today I drove the car for the first time this year and when I got home I found a misting of oil on the side of the block, the oil head/filter, the distributor pedestal, basically that entire area. With the engi -
Is the small tag for the coil feed of 12 volts when the engine starter is engaged? Have you identified the terminal for the Starter switch wiring to energise the solenoid coil? Car being after 1973 would have the pink ballast resistance wire as part of the loom.
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I have a almost new Autosparks loom in my 4a, installed during rebuild and worked fine for 3yrs. Recently after a visit to a body shop, I noticed that the main beam flashed on occasionally when turning the steering wheel. I suspected that an earth was occurring in the vicinity of the column lighting switch, possibly contacting the indicator cancelling clip and shorting through the steering column. After some investigation, I managed to move the indicator clip slightly further down the steering shaft; it seemed to be sorted. However, today during final checks before the first show of the season
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Hi all - I'm admitting defeat and asking for help (this is akin to asking for directions) I've rebuilt the engine in my '6 and cannot get it to run properly, if it starts it farts and bangs and doesn't rev. properly. It has a new fuel pump and pressure regulator, the MU has been overhauled, reset and retimed and all the injectors appear to be functioning correctly and butterflys set Compressions are between 170 & 175psi. New plugs (N9YC) points, distributor cap & leads, coil and static timed to 11 deg. I've gone over it several times resetting and checking eve
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The PO fitted the additional oil feed pipe after the rocker shaft wore badly / prematurely on the rebuilt engine. I'm looking for a simple method to regulate the oil flow that the pipe supplies so some of the additional lubriction can be retained. Has anyone found a good/ simple method to add a restriction of some kind into the pipe or banjo union ? Many thanks Bob
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Do what the racers do. On my 4 cyl race engines (without additional rocker feed from the camshaft) I fit a small restrictor bush into the hole of the rocker shaft pillar at the pillar to head point. using a 3 mm hole for the oil feed, it's plenty' Which is why I won't fit an auxiliary rocker shaft feed, robbing oil and pressure from parts of the engine that needs it. Mick Richards.
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Is it worth draining/flushing the engine of water coolant and replacing it with waterless coolant, any tips etc?
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Hi Guys.. My project car...TR4A with 6 cyl TR engine. I am confident that I have the rack in the "factory" position, thanks to very helpful forum members that provided the measurements. Currently the "Certifying Automotive Engineer" that I have to use in order to eventually have the car registered requires documentary proof of what I have done is the correct factory position.. I have seen the factory chassis measurements diagram, but the rack location/mounting plate face is not clearly seen.....Usually in relation to the main front cross member. Are there any "factory" or workshop ma
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Click on to enlarge I have the same switch, I switched the live battery terminal, as shown. The small terminals interrupt the volts going to the coil, to ensure the engine stops when switched off even if ignition switch is still on. The switch lever is positioned below the glove box for easy access. Bob
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FYI - There’s a company here in the US called Patton Machine that offers a throttle body kit for the TR4. https://www.pattonmachine.com/shop/four-4-cylinder-engine-throttle-body-injection-kit-with-distributor-conversion-ignition-mapping-for-two-2-small-or-medium-bodied-carbs/ Jim
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The switch has two separate functions. The heavy connections are to isolate the battery from the electrical system, but that won't stop the engine if it is running since the alternator will continue to supply power to the car, and if that is the case it will also be powering any electrical short that might have occurred. The smaller contacts are intended to be wired into the ignition system so that switching off also removes power from that circuit so stopping the engine and any output from the alternator. The contacts labelled '1' are closed with the switch off and open with it on. The
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Last Wednesday I was driving my TR3 (DTR9602O, an early small mouth) to a club coffee. After going through traffic onto the freeway and then cruising down it for about 25 minutes at 110-115kmh, I took the exit and the car started running on 3 cylinders. I thought straight away a burnt valve, although it sounded a more than a small chip in a valve. No strange noises from the engine so I pulled over to check simple things like plugs etc. All in order so I continued to the coffee just a few minutes further down the road. Did a more thorough check there and was confident it was a valve p
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Hi, I have a 1973 TR6, I was watching "Wheeler Dealers" programme and Ed topped up the TR6 he was working with waterless Coolant , Is it worth draining/flushing the engine of water coolant and replacing it with waterless coolant, any tips etc?
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Hi Guys Came back from a run out this afternoon. 10 minutes later coolant on the drive A quick run of the engine with the rad cap off the coolant foamed up and flowed up out of the rad. Just done a compression test and leak down, Both excellent results. There is no coolant in the oil The coolant I am using is 4 Advanced Engine Coolant I would be grateful for any suggestions Regards JohnR
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Voltage Regulator ? Out for drive it day on Sunday with Forth & Borders Group touring and lunching in the glorious Scottish Borders and unfortunately one of our members cars stopped and looking for some advice here ! There appears to have been a live wire with a connector spade attached underneath the dash, which caused quite a firework display ! Car stopped and only way to get it running was a jumper wire from the solenoid to the ignition fuse. The fuse itself is ok, NO power on either side. Downloaded a circuit diagram, and found (with a multimeter) the following: E - c
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Both Stuart. It's probably more noticeable with the engine running and when on the road, but the pedal does drift further down when pressed gently with the engine off, and responds more firmly when pressed harder too.
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Is that with engine running or not? Stuart.
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Ok, that's pretty much the full story of Jan and my adventure taking our TR4 on the 2014 Alcan 5000. It really was an adventure and we'll never forget it. Reposting the story here and re-reading Jan's contributions makes it feel like it was just yesterday rather than almost 10 years ago! I really did immediately drive the TR back to Toronto which was another 4,000+ miles in 7 days. Trust me when I say, nowhere's far in a TR! To fully wrap up, I want to share the epilogue that we wrote after completing the rally. Finally, we want to dedicate our finish in this wonderful ral
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The pushrods are tubular but I believe they have been in the engine for many decades. The previous owner bought the car in 1958 from the original owner so I have a complete history. He cannot remember changing them so could they be the original ones? They are steel pedestals, all in good condition. I suspect the pushrod was bent in its racing days and I never thought to check them.
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Had this on a TR6 and turned out to be a jammed cam follower. Engine not turned in years. Regards Harry
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Probably open a bag or worms with this one but here goes. Whilst the car is up on axle stands with the diff out I thought I would drain the engine oil take the sump off see if it needs straightening and refit to again try and stop some more of my cars identity crisis. It thinks it's the Torrey Canyon. However what oil to use I have no idea whats in it or for how long. In the past I have used Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil in the Avenger but it was a high revving semi comp engine. TRGB suggest Penrite 20w/60 but the problem is our engines need more than 5 litres and I am not sure you can get P
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The choke mechanism certainly shouldn't be wet with fuel - and neither should the vacuum advance pipe. These are possibly signs of the jet overflowing due to too high a fuel level in the float chamber. If the mixture is way too rich the engine won't fire.
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Engine and gearbox on chassis first for me. Apart from having to lift body a bit higher to clear engine when placing it on chassis it’s so much easier to manoeuvre without new paint damage. Very tight fitting engine and g/box as one lump down at an angle into body if you fit body to chassis first. Easy to scrape new paint, particularly on bulkhead above transmission tunnel. If you do decide to fit body first, then engine and box leave the g/box lid off to give a bit more wiggle room. Dave McD
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