All Activity

Play in the front wheel bearings ! That’s the sign of a sloppy owner. They are taper bearings , going to the MOT, 1/2 mile from the garage stop and nip them up ttttiiight. Then when it’s passed and you collect it 1/2 mile from garage …stop and set them as they should. Every bodies happy and you have a nonsensical bit of paper in your hand that proves exactly what I said…the MoT only pertains to that “ moment on time”. Mick Richards

My tame garage 5 minutes away has done my MOT for years. He understands classics & knows there needs to be a little more tolerance with regard to TR wheel bearings, handbrake etc. I am very lucky to have someone who understands old cars & it is no real effort once a year to go & get a look over & second opinion. He also lets me wander underneath with the Waxoyl can!

Folks, sorry I didn’t update, but I did refit the bracket screws (with a touch of Permatex on the threads) and no more leaks! Jim

Messy on light coloured upholstery. Candle wax works fine. Stuart.

I think theyve stopped doing TRs AFIK. Stuart.

No need for an mot and the tyres are pumped up. Soon be on the road as a survivor

Who on earth dreamed this one up: If you think it’s appropriate to ensure the components used to build a vehicle must be more than 25 years old and within the period the model of vehicle was originally manufactured, please provide evidence and reasons to support your views. Guaranteed to make old vehicles unrestorable !

Gentlemen, In the light of the above DVLA proposed changes to the registration process would it be advisable for me to seek the first UK registration of my USA imported TR4 now in advance of any changes to the registration process? Currently the car is totally dismantled and the parts are presently being restored by specialists. Can it be registered as it is or do I have to wait until it has been re-assembled and the restoration completed? Thanks for any advice as how to proceed.My thoughts are to seek to register it now as the conditions attached to the process are known. Thank

or play in the front wheel bearings!

Possibly Carn Bosavern Garage, St. Just Stuart unless just a lucky individual. Rodders.

Graphite from a pencil run up and down the metal teeth? Miles

Spot the deliberate mistake! no condensor Stuart.

You can fit points to a cut down base plate pin, you need the one piece points as opposed to the two part ones. Ive had to do this a few times when fault finding on cars fitted with the electronic ignition that requires the cut down pin. Just make sure they move freely as Ive had a set that had been crimped up too tight and would close up on their own. Stuart.

Hmm bit of a slippery slope some of the questions asked. Paging Graham Andrews. Stuart.

Rob, my full respect for you for explaining that. I‘m sometimes too tiered to explain and disprove what idiots tell. Ciao, Marco

Nope not coming here, does look in remarkably good condition though, I would hazard a guess at a late 2. Stuart.

The lads at mine, one has a 122s Volvo and the other has a 56 Chevy. Stuart.

Folks, see the link around something being launched today by DVLA around registration for Classic vehicles. Those who are serial builders must have a vested interest in giving their 4 penny worth. https://www.gov.uk/government/calls-for-evidence/registering-historic-classic-rebuilt-vehicles-and-vehicles-converted-to-electric-call-for-evidence Regards Mike

The actual timing with Pertronix should be the same as with points. It's the engine which determines what advance is required, not the type of ignition. The thing about pertronix and other such systems is that they sit in a different place within the dizzy than the points do, so if you fit them you have to re-adjust the timing point but to the same advance figure.

Please ignore that

I moved my coil some years ago and I had to fit bolts into the holes left in the side of the engine to stop oil coming out. I put a copper washer under each bolt head. Keith

Check the fuel supply rate at the pump as per Bosch spec it s/b 2-2.5l/min but what sort of pipework have you got after the pump if it is non flexable that is a no no??? Bruce.

Getting back to the problem. If a day in the sun didn't soften it enough to stretch over the fittings, then it probably time to replace it. Bob

Not just 180 degs, but every 60 deg increments !

Thanks for the assistance. The firing order is correct (HT leads marked up etc) and caps are good. and firm Rotor is on cylinder 1 when timed, so sadly, it's not 180 degrees out. Fuel is fresh, and also added some to the carb floats too. I'll rip the nose come off in the next few weeks and remove/reset the pulley to set my TDC as recommended and see if I have my old points etc. Was hoping I could avoid as that nose cone has been off and on loads recently! I've read on another thread that the Pertonix has to be set 10 degrees before TDC. Is that correct. https://www.br