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MilesA

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MilesA last won the day on February 26

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About MilesA

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    Me and my TR3A - North London.

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  1. Has anyone created a wiring diagram which lists not only cable colours but the appropriate ampage requirements? From time to time, I replace the random bits of cable used when the car was previously restored so that the colours are correct and they are suitable for the load. Latest job is to replace the two cables going to the overdrive solenoid and switches as these rise vertically from the top of the gearbox cover through a hole in the carpet. I am replacing the carpet and want the cables to be the correct colour and follow a flat route along the tunnel, up the balkhead etc.: easier to identify in future, saves damaging the new carpet and reduces the risk of them being ripped out accidentally. (This is the traditional '1 job in a TR involves two others.!). * Anyone have a diagram with ampages noted or can confirm what ampage I need for the cables to solenoid and switches? Miles * The other task this has generated is replacing the 3' long onboard speedo cable (L/H drive rev counter cable?) that also rises vertically through the gearbox cover carpet to the speedo!
  2. +1 but as Andy says, the sidewalls are rather modern if that worries you. Miles
  3. You can never relax with a TR! Did you notice the position of Ed's cooler on his lovely red racing 3A?
  4. So many details from that film about the Doug Hoyge rebuild that I loved! Vertical to the side looks good, but behind a cut out in the lower apron behind where the front bumper gives a dedicated location for a cooler and is popular. Hamish's cooler is raised up, allowing air to flow under directly to the rad. And then Peter throws in the claimed value of a slightly angled vertical duct either side of the radiator. Of course Bfg you are correct - ultimately, there is no one answer. Trial and error will find what each of feel is best for our cars - and that may be pretty subjective! I have a cunning plan formulating for my car but, as ever, time is at a premium. Perhaps in need to be pushed into retirement too! PS I stand to be corrected but my understanding was that the 2 and 3 were regarded as having a better cooling design and the cardboard shroud installed in 3As was a hastily devised post production solution to overheating in the early 3As because of the wide grille and large gaps allowing air to wander past the radiator. When I installed one in my car I noticed a reduction (but an incomplete one) in running temperatures. Perhaps a slightly angled duct around the radiator all the way to the grille would assist. Miles
  5. Ah, BFG (do you have a name?). The joy of the Forum; one question and multiple solutions! I am no scientist but I am inclined to pay heed to the advice of the manufacturers of the oil coolers who have an interest in ensuring that their products work and do so in a way that does not adversely effect other components. Obviously what is lacking, is evidence from a controlled testing of the options. Just a bit surprised that those from the racing fraternity have not worked this one out based on their experience. As ever though, the range of responses provide reasons for more tinkering with our cars. In my case I suspect the cooler was placed close to the grille on the basis that that would provide optimum air flow to it. The potential flaw in this arrangement is that the modern grille with its wide bars blocks a considerable amount of incoming air (and crimping the bars is another job on the tinkering list!)! Miles
  6. Peter Sounds like the best use for a yoga mat! Who needs one anyway after spending half of yesterday on my back across the seats fiddling with the rats nest of wires under the dash? Another benefit of owning a TR! Miles
  7. Thanks all. Interestingly, Mocal provide the following advice (and I think they should know): In the case of the air to oil cooler, The oil cooler will only achieve results where a volume of air is passing through the fins. The amount of heat dissipated by radiation is negligible. In practice the most convenient position for the oil cooler is in front of the water radiator where a flow of air is guaranteed. Even in cases where the water cooling is marginal, placing the cooler in this position will have hardly any effect on water temperature. The sheer volume of air passing through the cooler ensures that the air is only heated a few degrees; not enough to affect the water radiator performance, and as the oil cooler is a more efficient device for extracting heat from the engine, the overall effect is helpful. However, where water cooling is marginal it is essential that the oil cooler be placed against the water radiator face, otherwise warmer air leaving the oil cooler will become turbulent on meeting air at ambient temperatures and will not pass through the water radiator. If placing of cooler and water radiator in close proximity is not possible then a duct of thin aluminium should be made to exclude the ambient air. I am sure a few here will not favour the duct idea given the potential for damaging the radiator in a shunt. Miles
  8. In the meantime, any merit in sweeping the bottom of the tank with a magnet in case there is a small bit of crud and it is metallic? Or is that a massive spark risk? Bizarrely I have a similar problem at present with my central heating system. Random radiators refuse to heat up. When bled, the water is clear but the system magnet has to be cleaned on an almost daily basis of metallic crud from the old radiators. I think I have a crudberger moving around the system which is only gradually being skimmed off! Miles
  9. Peter Sounds like you need to reinstall. Perhaps with modern fuels burning at higher temperatures, there is now a value in using an oil cooler. Hamish I am not convinced that placing one adjacent to a radiator provides the optimum solution. At least with some distance between the two, some cooler air gets mixed with that passing through the oil cooler which wouldn't otherwise happen. Also, if being adjacent to each other was optimal, I am sure that would have been the standard location over the years. Overall, I suspect the difference is minimal. Any thoughts from the racers out there - or physicists? Miles
  10. Thanks Bob. Again, my thinking too. Could I be starting to learn something about electrickery at last? Just need to avoid overconfidence otherwise that Lucas smoke will be released! Miles
  11. Crikey Roger, why aren't you out having a cooling beer somewhere? My thinking too from some research but always think it wise to check here with anything to do with electrics. If I can find a decent clock, i will give it a try and revert to Plan B if there is a problem. Thanks Miles
  12. I posed this query having seen the recent Binky episodes and seen the 3 radiators installed hard up against each other at the front of the car. I have an oil cooler that is located close to the grille of my 3A and so about 9 inches forward of the radiator. This is fairly common positioning in other examples I have seen. So my query is, would radiator performance be improved if the two were closer together / adjacent or is any adverse impact on the radiator's performance from the 9" gap with the cooler, negligible? If I was serious about this I would of course reposition the cooler at the bottom of the apron with its own opening, although I have seen photographs of one mounted vertically alongside a 3A's radiator. Equally, I am aware that an oil cooler is probably not necessary on a non-racing car, so perhaps I should just remove it! Miles
  13. On the right hand side go my dash, is an oblong-shaped hole which is simply covered by the dashboard material. After some research, it seems to match the dimensions of a Jaeger Quartz car clock (I know, I and the car need to get out more). So I am tempted to install one. Because I only drive the 3A irregularly, it spends its down time on an intelligent battery charger. So, is there any problem in running a feed directly from the battery whilst it is being charged, to keep a clock going? The alternative, would be to simply reset the clock when the car is taken out. Easy enough to do whilst it is warming up. Miles
  14. Phil For what it is worth, my fuel line is routed on the bulkhead like Hamish's (but with a Facet Cube pump at the rear of the car). The only time I have experienced vaporisation was on the hottest day of last year when I was stuck in very slow moving traffic through London for several hours (I was vaporising too!). You can get heat reflective sheaths for your fuel line, but others will know how effective they are. Miles
  15. Interesting thought. I have an oil cooler which is located close to the grille of my 3A and so about 9 inches from the radiator which is fairly common positioning in other examples I have seen. Would radiator performance be improved if the two were closer together or is any adverse impact on the radiator's performance from the 9" gap negligible? If I was serious about this I would reposition the cooler at the bottom of the apron with its own opening, although I have seen photographs of one mounted vertically alongside a 3A's radiator. Miles
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