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It looks very sunny. Where are you ?? Richard & B

Nearly. It was to keep my tracker alive in the event of me leaving the car somewhere with red key out. If you look carefully at the close up photo of my switch (above) you will notice a thin red wire on the left hand big (live) terminal. Bob

Well not in a TR Charlie, but back in the '70s I had one in my AH Sprite. Couldn't afford a 'leccy one.

Maybe that's why Bob put his switch on the live side of the battery. So... Tell us about the last time you saw a wind up clock in a TR

Nick, 16” wheels are possible. Wyn Lewis had some on his TR5. They looked v good. Wyn no longer has that car, and I don’t know who owns it. Perhaps a search may bring some information. What was your reason for the brake ‘upgrade’? Are you too far down the road to not bother with it? Standard brakes in good condition are more than good enough. David

Would a 6mm spacer between the wheel and hub not provide enough clearance? Ralph

Only suggesting !, I don`t know what Bob has wired up. I do have a clock in my 3a , though no radio. Ralph

Decadence ! This is a sidescreen car . A period radio would be manually-tuned and any clock would be wind-up. Seriously, if you leave something like that connected you haven't really isolated all the electrics, so it depends on what you are trying to achieve. If there is a radio which needs continuous power you can't put the battery switch in the earth lead because the radio probably earths through its mounting bracket.

Hi all slowly building up the chassis I have put together the Willwood front disc & caliper conversion also using an alloy hub with standard stub axle ,but when I tried to put a wheel on u guessed it it won’t cover the caliper, annoying but contacted willwood but they say rally design made the kit using there parts but the disc looks to big , obviously I bought it years ago so no chance of changing it but is there a 16 inch wheel that’s fits the tr5 1st pic the wheel only goes on a few inches 2nd pic it goes on but catches the caliper regards. Nick

Clock?, or memory to a radio. Ralph

I found trouble to open the door. The mechanism inside the I doing well. The trouble spot is the part that sits between door and body. I can open the first step, the door moves 1cm but then any further. Any idea what might gone bad and how to open the door without cutting?

I have just been out and checked my existing relay. I have the screw eyelet version. I am keen on yours. I nearly bought one yesterday and thought that I would ask for advice here on the Forum. Thanks Richard & B

Saw something last year about Shell, in some areas it was ethanol free, but that was coming to an end. I used to use only Shell, but now use any brand of E5 but always use an unleaded additive that includes an ethanol stabiliser, Classic valvemaster (used to be Castrol), and recently got a bargain deal from MGB Hive by buying a case of 12 bottles of Duckhams Classic fuel treatment. The Duckhams brand used to be owned by Castrol, so I suspect the bottle contents are the same. Ralph

Bob, I notice that you have a small wire that goes off somewhere that is connected directly to the battery earth even when the switch is switched to “off” . I would guess tracker or something similar, but what other devices may need to always be alive? Charlie.

Revington do a kit designed to fit under the dash https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8319k/name/kit-cut-out-under-dash-tr2-4a I guess you could copy the bracket design. Iain

+1

Ben is on Holiday at the moment. I would give him some time to respond to your enquiries. Cheers Graeme

Great! Jerry‘s measures confirmed your construction? Ciao, Marco

Similar hinges, but slightly different processes required: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-62/TR6-62.html http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-40/GT6-40.html Ed

I just assumed they must be overloaded, as I too have approached Revival Fabrications via without response to enquire about process for ordering. I don't do Facebook so will likely try a phone call. Cheers

The master cylinder for clutch and brake are both Girling CV type with a 3/4” bore. Yes same as many other cars like the LandRover. The push rod is unique in its length. If buying a cheaper item there are a couple of things to check/note Bore size. Threaded pipe sizes. Push rod length ( use your old one) Where it was made and who by. Crucial as there were some damn right dangerous ones around not long ago. The only way you can confirm that is by stripping them and comparing the piston assemblies of a genuine to the repro. If possible buy genuine Girling (NOS

Find on Pages 8 & 9 23 rd July 2022 onwards into August Note the machined cut out to let the nipple pass the hinge leaf.

Thanks for the offer Marco......My problem has been solved with the generous assistance of this forum.

Also keep in mind.....Establish your desired ride height as height will change the camber. Do you have adjustable TA brackets?