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Things are going well with the Tr.3A . I left the Tonneau out in the sun today and there was no improvement. I tried using some pliers to grip the fabric and pull it tighter but there was no movement. At the back of the garage there was a box with the hood inside. Under the hood was a different Tonneau. I tried it on the car and it fitted well in a few minutes. It is in the hot sun now and I will report if it is too loose tonight or becomes "boggy" I like to use it because I parked outside the local bakers shop and with no cover all the tools and parts were dangerously exposed. So I

Hi all, conundrum here - in an old but almost perfect paint restoration ( formerly Neil Revingtons Police TR4 ) I have a 20 cm vertical /crack defect close to door hinge; I thought it was a fine crack in a skim of filler. Bodywork guy in a very high end Bentley restoration shop near me thought it was more likely due to a door strap malfunction some time in the past. His advice on wisdom of repair was negative due to difficulty in matching almost 20 year old white paint. "If you can live with it leave it" and I must confess it isn't very obvious but stares me in the face when cleaning old Dixo

I have brake lights! As suggested by RobH it was indeed the switch that had failed. Thanks to all for your invaluable input as usual. Also thanks to my local independent Landrover specialist who provided the new switch! David

I never tightened my wheel bearings and he gave the wheels a right good shake with no movement. Its the day after the MOT so the car is back in my garage just in case its no longer roadworthy Phil.

Play in the front wheel bearings ! That’s the sign of a sloppy owner. They are taper bearings , going to the MOT, 1/2 mile from the garage stop and nip them up ttttiiight. Then when it’s passed and you collect it 1/2 mile from garage …stop and set them as they should. Every bodies happy and you have a nonsensical bit of paper in your hand that proves exactly what I said…the MoT only pertains to that “ moment on time”. Mick Richards

My tame garage 5 minutes away has done my MOT for years. He understands classics & knows there needs to be a little more tolerance with regard to TR wheel bearings, handbrake etc. I am very lucky to have someone who understands old cars & it is no real effort once a year to go & get a look over & second opinion. He also lets me wander underneath with the Waxoyl can!

Folks, sorry I didn’t update, but I did refit the bracket screws (with a touch of Permatex on the threads) and no more leaks! Jim

Messy on light coloured upholstery. Candle wax works fine. Stuart.

I think theyve stopped doing TRs AFIK. Stuart.

No need for an mot and the tyres are pumped up. Soon be on the road as a survivor

Who on earth dreamed this one up: If you think it’s appropriate to ensure the components used to build a vehicle must be more than 25 years old and within the period the model of vehicle was originally manufactured, please provide evidence and reasons to support your views. Guaranteed to make old vehicles unrestorable !

Gentlemen, In the light of the above DVLA proposed changes to the registration process would it be advisable for me to seek the first UK registration of my USA imported TR4 now in advance of any changes to the registration process? Currently the car is totally dismantled and the parts are presently being restored by specialists. Can it be registered as it is or do I have to wait until it has been re-assembled and the restoration completed? Thanks for any advice as how to proceed.My thoughts are to seek to register it now as the conditions attached to the process are known. Thank

or play in the front wheel bearings!

Possibly Carn Bosavern Garage, St. Just Stuart unless just a lucky individual. Rodders.

Graphite from a pencil run up and down the metal teeth? Miles

Spot the deliberate mistake! no condensor Stuart.

You can fit points to a cut down base plate pin, you need the one piece points as opposed to the two part ones. Ive had to do this a few times when fault finding on cars fitted with the electronic ignition that requires the cut down pin. Just make sure they move freely as Ive had a set that had been crimped up too tight and would close up on their own. Stuart.

Hmm bit of a slippery slope some of the questions asked. Paging Graham Andrews. Stuart.

Rob, my full respect for you for explaining that. I‘m sometimes too tiered to explain and disprove what idiots tell. Ciao, Marco

Nope not coming here, does look in remarkably good condition though, I would hazard a guess at a late 2. Stuart.

The lads at mine, one has a 122s Volvo and the other has a 56 Chevy. Stuart.

Folks, see the link around something being launched today by DVLA around registration for Classic vehicles. Those who are serial builders must have a vested interest in giving their 4 penny worth. https://www.gov.uk/government/calls-for-evidence/registering-historic-classic-rebuilt-vehicles-and-vehicles-converted-to-electric-call-for-evidence Regards Mike

The actual timing with Pertronix should be the same as with points. It's the engine which determines what advance is required, not the type of ignition. The thing about pertronix and other such systems is that they sit in a different place within the dizzy than the points do, so if you fit them you have to re-adjust the timing point but to the same advance figure.

Please ignore that

I moved my coil some years ago and I had to fit bolts into the holes left in the side of the engine to stop oil coming out. I put a copper washer under each bolt head. Keith