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Everco heater valve


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2 hours ago, stuart said:

The most likely scenario is the valve stem will break off, its fairly usual.

Stuart.

Yes, that's what happened with mine. I used a hacksaw blade to cut slots in the old valve's alloy threaded section stuck in the water valve adaptor, being careful not to graze the adaptor's internal thread. I was then able to pry the alloy out, bit by bit and clean up the thread. Fitted the Everco with PTFE gas tape - thicker than plumbers tape.

BTW, my experience is that the 1/2" rubber heater hose would expand sufficiently to go over the 5/8" Everco fitting.

Cheers, Richard

Photo0553.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...

Sorry to bring up this old thread, but pulled the TR out of the garage today and left a trail of water/antifreeze on the ground. On investigation my 2 year old heater valve has failed with water coming out of the slot where the operating lever goes in, so I assume it is the rubber diaphragm failed. The valve never worked well, it would never shut off properly without lifting the bonnet and physically moving the lever round the last bit.  I have ordered the TX1 valve from T7 designs, I think I will use an adapter fitted into the existing 45 degree outlet from the head to avoid having to remove and re torque the back cylinder head nut, then find a 90 degree rubber hose to connect to the TX1 valve. If I can find 16mm ID hose with a bend in that will sort out the head to valve connection. Just hoping that the existing heater hose can then be persuaded to fit the outlet of the TX1 valve.

Ralph

20221125_110038.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

The valve never worked well, it would never shut off properly without lifting the bonnet and physically moving the lever round the last bit.

Ah yes. I used to get that too. Bowden cables aren't really designed to push, and the spiral outer expands/extends if the valve is a bit stiff or cable friction high. I found some bicycle brake cable with a woven layer over the conventional spiral which stops this. I simply substituted the original solid core and bingo. It also matches my bling-blinginjector hoses! (See my picture last-but-one post.)

Cheers, Richard

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19 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Ralph,

don't mess around - get the proper valve   from RockAuto

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Everco-Heater-Control-Valve/_/N-91sh0?itemIdentifier=135681&_requestid=7124741

It will out last you.

 

Roger

Hi Roger,

for some reason my computer keeps coming up with an error message when I try that link, saying I haven`t  permission to access that link from my server !!!!. I am with BT so I don`t understand. Anyway, thanks for your input, but I have already ordered the TX1 and a 90 degree hose from T7.

Ralph

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You can get to the site if you shorten the URL to just autozone/.  I believe the part to search for is 74648 (based on previous threads) which is out of stock

If this is correct part then Amazon has it - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SEASONS-DIVISION-74648-CABLE-OPERATED/dp/B000C2UVQ4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=16JFAUUU8MO9U&keywords=74648&qid=1669391112&s=automotive&sprefix=74648%2Cautomotive%2C305&sr=1-1-catcorr

I think Fleabay also show them occasionally.

Happy hunting

Mark

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To ensure that I stop circulation of coolant through the heater in summer, I installed many years ago a simple rotary cock, as used on 15mm hot & cold feeds to wash basins in the home.  The cock sits in the hose which is between the normal heater valve and the tube through the bulkhead.

Ian Cornish

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16 hours ago, ianc said:

To ensure that I stop circulation of coolant through the heater in summer, I installed many years ago a simple rotary cock, as used on 15mm hot & cold feeds to wash basins in the home.  The cock sits in the hose which is between the normal heater valve and the tube through the bulkhead.

Ian Cornish

The Everco stops All flow with a light push on the knob.  It actually works everytime

 

Roger

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  • 3 weeks later...

Having done a bit more forum research on the subject I thought I'd add some more information and queries to this posting.

If needed or desired, as per this earlier forum post a replacement elbow fitting on the engine to the heater valve seems to be a 135 degree (sometimes called 45 degree) black iron 1/4" BSP male x 3/8" BSP female plumbing fitting, and looks like the picture in this posting

On the matter of the elbow hitting the cylinder head stud when it rotates, this post from 2009 suggests that grinding a little of the end of the existing elbow will stop it from hitting the stud, hence no need to remove the head stud and seems a good idea.  I have a vague recollection that some years ago someone told me they'd done that and it worked so I'm asking if someone has done it successfully in case I'm imagining it?

Both that same 2009 posting and page one of this posting discusses using the TR6 straight pipe as a replacement for the elbow.  Has anyone done that for a TR4 / TR4A when using the everco valve under discussion here?   I'm slightly worried it may end up too high and hit the bonnet.

I assume the existing heater hose pipe can be used.

Paul

 

Edited by PaulAnderson
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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone know where I can buy one of those 135 degree (sometimes called 45 degree) black iron 1/4" BSP male x 3/8" BSP female plumbing fittings from please.  I’ve tried a couple of large plumbers merchants including BSS to no avail.  The latter said they could make one up out of two or more fittings only.
 

Paul

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3 hours ago, PaulAnderson said:

Does anyone know where I can buy one of those 135 degree (sometimes called 45 degree) black iron 1/4" BSP male x 3/8" BSP female plumbing fittings from please.  I’ve tried a couple of large plumbers merchants including BSS to no avail.  The latter said they could make one up out of two or more fittings only.
 

Paul

Paul,

 

Just goggle a 1/4 BSP x 3/8 BSP 45 M&F elbow should bring plenty up

 

Mark

Edited by 250
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The elbows/ adaptors are available from Moss and Rimmers, the usual U.K. suppliers.

Edited by SuzanneH
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If you get stuck I now have a spare elbow, I recently changed my heater valve to the TX1 that fits in the pipeline. I also bought from  T7  the correct 16mm pipe with a 90 degree bend and used a straight adapter in the cylinder head. Incidentally my 45/135 adapter unscrewed with only the rocker box removed, I did not have to mess with the head nut.

Ralph

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9 hours ago, Nigel C said:

I knew I'd seen this part somewhere !

image.thumb.png.96718e82c7a6cd30fd5a55456d8e4534.png

Mick Richards 

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