PaulAnderson Posted January 24, 2023 Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 On 1/19/2023 at 5:43 PM, Ralph Whitaker said: If you get stuck I now have a spare elbow, I recently changed my heater valve to the TX1 that fits in the pipeline. I also bought from T7 the correct 16mm pipe with a 90 degree bend and used a straight adapter in the cylinder head. Incidentally my 45/135 adapter unscrewed with only the rocker box removed, I did not have to mess with the head nut. Ralph Hi Ralph, I’d not heard of T7 but after a web search assume you meant Here Nice to know about your elbow unscrewing without interference hitting the head stud nut. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 25, 2023 Report Share Posted January 25, 2023 17 hours ago, PaulAnderson said: Hi Ralph, I’d not heard of T7 but after a web search assume you meant Here Nice to know about your elbow unscrewing without interference hitting the head stud nut. Paul Hi Paul, yes thats the place for heaters and fittings etc. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 10, 2023 Report Share Posted May 10, 2023 On 12/15/2022 at 11:16 PM, PaulAnderson said: Having done a bit more forum research on the subject I thought I'd add some more information and queries to this posting. If needed or desired, as per this earlier forum post a replacement elbow fitting on the engine to the heater valve seems to be a 135 degree (sometimes called 45 degree) black iron 1/4" BSP male x 3/8" BSP female plumbing fitting, and looks like the picture in this posting On the matter of the elbow hitting the cylinder head stud when it rotates, this post from 2009 suggests that grinding a little of the end of the existing elbow will stop it from hitting the stud, hence no need to remove the head stud and seems a good idea. I have a vague recollection that some years ago someone told me they'd done that and it worked so I'm asking if someone has done it successfully in case I'm imagining it? Both that same 2009 posting and page one of this posting discusses using the TR6 straight pipe as a replacement for the elbow. Has anyone done that for a TR4 / TR4A when using the everco valve under discussion here? I'm slightly worried it may end up too high and hit the bonnet. I assume the existing heater hose pipe can be used. Paul Just to pick up on my own previous post, I’m not sure it is a 1/4” male to 3/8 female elbow. I ordered one from Moss and what came is 3/8” at both ends. I hope it fits as I’m now pressed into doing the job by a leak in the slot of the original heater valve. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 10, 2023 Report Share Posted May 10, 2023 I plan to use an electronic shut off/on valve on my project car, together with an aftermarket dash switch that glows green when off and red on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 11, 2023 Report Share Posted May 11, 2023 5 hours ago, Malbaby said: I plan to use an electronic shut off/on valve on my project car, together with an aftermarket dash switch that glows green when off and red on. Sorry me Malcolm, I hate to ask this question - but want to safe you from a disappointment: why do you want to do that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 11, 2023 Report Share Posted May 11, 2023 On 1/24/2023 at 1:34 PM, PaulAnderson said: Hi Ralph, I’d not heard of T7 but after a web search assume you meant Here Nice to know about your elbow unscrewing without interference hitting the head stud nut. Paul Why not use the straight heater adaptor from a TR6 ? No diddling about taking the rocker cover off or possibility of touching the head nut. Part Number 148435. https://www.abingdonmgparts.co.uk/product/adaptor-for-heater-tap%3a--tr5%2c-tr6/148435 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 11, 2023 Report Share Posted May 11, 2023 (edited) The TR6 pipe is excessively long, at least in appearance if not fit. It would likely still need the rocker cover and head stud nut removing to get the old elbow off, unless you’re lucky as one member reported earlier. Of interest is that it also seems to be 3/8 confirming that the earlier 1/4” reference was incorrect Paul Edited May 11, 2023 by PaulAnderson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 11, 2023 Report Share Posted May 11, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, Z320 said: Sorry me Malcolm, I hate to ask this question - but want to safe you from a disappointment: why do you want to do that? Hi Marco....Mainly because I do not like the agricultural look of the heater valve.....I am not a "factory correct" person....Also like to have the engine bay as neat/tidy looking as possible....And finally because I can. Edited May 11, 2023 by Malbaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 11, 2023 Report Share Posted May 11, 2023 13 minutes ago, Malbaby said: Hi Marco....Mainly because I do not like the agricultural look of the heater valve.....I am not a "factory correct" person....Also like to have the engine bay as neat/tidy looking as possible....And finally because I can. Bravo that man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 6 hours ago, Malbaby said: And finally because I can. This is why I hat to ask that question. Do it and tell us, what I can tell you is only what I expect, I don’t know because I not did it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 7 hours ago, Malbaby said: Mainly because I do not like the agricultural look of the heater valve.....I am not a "factory correct" person....Also like to have the engine bay as neat/tidy looking as possible.... If this would be my motivation I would remove all that stuff, block the connections, close the hole in the firewall and drive without heating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 I use a 3/8” BSP male/female swivel. Details are halfway through this issue of “In the Garage” https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2022/04/2021/In-The-Garage-April-2022-Issue-15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spit_2.5PI Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 7 hours ago, Drewmotty said: I use a 3/8” BSP male/female swivel. Details are halfway through this issue of “In the Garage” I do like that. Bravo! Parts-bin engineering in the true spirit of Triumph. Cheers, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 (edited) Yes that looks quite nice. I bought the two plumbing adapters shown in the attached photograph in the local branch of BSS yesterday. It's laid alongside the TR6 pipe which I'd also bought earlier as a failsafe. However I don't think I will need either option as this afternoon I managed to get the old valve off without it snapping. It took many repeat processes of releasing oil and heat from a blowlamp until it finally gave in. Yeah, I'm well relieved . Unfortunately the old heater hose split when trying to push it over the larger spigot on the new valve. I wish I had some of Rogers concorde hose put away but instead just managed to catch a supplier in (late on a Friday afternoon) to post me some out next week. As well as the replacement hose I also need to work out how to attach the pull cable to the heater valve. I recall seeing an elegant solution as well as one that used the internals of an electrical connector. I must look them up again. I've got a deadline of getting the car running for next weekends Scottish weekend. Paul Edited May 12, 2023 by PaulAnderson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 1 hour ago, PaulAnderson said: Yes that looks quite nice. I bought the two plumbing adapters shown in the attached photograph in the local branch of BSS yesterday. It's laid alongside the TR6 pipe which I'd also bought earlier as a failsafe. However I don't think I will need either option as this afternoon I managed to get the old valve off without it snapping. It took many repeat processes of releasing oil and heat from a blowlamp until it finally gave in. Yeah, I'm well relieved . Unfortunately the old heater hose split when trying to push it over the larger spigot on the new valve. I wish I had some of Rogers concorde hose put away but instead just managed to catch a supplier in (late on a Friday afternoon) to post me some out next week. As well as the replacement hose I also need to work out how to attach the pull cable to the heater valve. I recall seeing an elegant solution as well as one that used the internals of an electrical connector. I must look them up again. I've got a deadline of getting the car running for next weekends Scottish weekend. Paul Think that was me. Get a Plastic 65amp Block Connector and cut the plastic off of it then take out one of the Screws and carefully drill out the Hole to the size of the shaft on the Everco Valve and use the other Screw to hold the Cable,works a TReat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 Alternatively you could just do this with a pair of long nosed pliers- has worked well for me so far! Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 12, 2023 Report Share Posted May 12, 2023 (edited) What persuasion was needed to get the heater hose onto the new valve? I warmed it for a while in hot water but it was a struggle and as I said, split. It may have been 20 years old however but didn’t seem too hard. I believe it’s 13mm ID. Ralph mentions using 16mm ID hose but i wonder if that is not too big for the other end where it pushes onto the fitting that straddles the bulkhead (611043). My bulkhead fitting is stainless and the 13mm hose wasn’t too tight on it so I’m concerned that a 16mm couldn’t be sealed even with a tight jubilee clip. Paul Edited May 13, 2023 by PaulAnderson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted May 13, 2023 Report Share Posted May 13, 2023 13 hours ago, TR NIALL said: Think that was me. Get a Plastic 65amp Block Connector and cut the plastic off of it then take out one of the Screws and carefully drill out the Hole to the size of the shaft on the Everco Valve and use the other Screw to hold the Cable,works a TReat. Sorry it was the 25amp Connector that I used not the 65amp or the middle of the 3 types. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 13, 2023 Report Share Posted May 13, 2023 10 hours ago, PaulAnderson said: What persuasion was needed to get the heater hose onto the new valve? I warmed it for a while in hot water but it was a struggle and as I said, split. It may have been 20 years old however but didn’t seem too hard. I believe it’s 13mm ID. Ralph mentions using 16mm ID hose but i wonder if that is not too big for the other end where it pushes onto the fitting that straddles the bulkhead (611043). My bulkhead fitting is stainless and the 13mm hose wasn’t too tight on it so I’m concerned that a 16mm couldn’t be sealed even with a tight jubilee clip. Paul Hi Paul, the 16mm pipe I bought was for the hose from head to valve, as I also bought a 16mm brass adapter for the head, from the valve to the bulkhead I used my existing hose, admittedly only 3 years old, and a smear of silicone grease and it stretched over the valve OK. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 13, 2023 Report Share Posted May 13, 2023 The input on the valve is actually 15mm but a nice new 13mm hose warmed up with a little lube will go on OK. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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