Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Reading, Berks.
  • Cars Owned:
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70 Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.

Recent Profile Visitors

237 profile views
  1. Apologies John. Yes, by OD Signal, I meant the 12V which goes to the solenoid via the driver's OD switch and the gearbox inhibit switch. On the small car box the inhibit switch does not interrupt (inhibit) the signal (i.e. 12V) to the solenoid between 3rd & 4th. Is this the case with the saloon / TR box? Is there more than one OD inhibit switch on the big box? I thought I remembered it might be different, especially as someone on page 1 had mentioned dropping out between the gears. I hope I've explained myself now. Cheers, Richard
  2. John, while there's no interruption in the OD signal changing between 3rd & 4th in Triumph's "Small Car" gearbox, is the same true for the TR/Saloon box? I have this nagging feeling it might not. Can anyone tell me which it is please? Cheers, Richard
  3. Steve, the only things I think I would add are, you can engage overdrive at any speed, you won't do any harm but the revs may be too low to be sensible - you'll soon get the hang of it! However, dis-engaging at high revs gives the possibility of over-revving the engine, so just be aware of the rise in rpm, much like changing down the gears. Other than that, I was ALWAYS going down below 3rd and forgetting to disengage overdrive. When I changed back up to 3rd again I would get the half to one second delay before the revs fell as the OD cuts in and the engine was no longer "on song". An overdrive logic circuit (home-made with two relays) hasn't improved my memory but I'm now a much happier driver. Yes, OD+4th for cruising and 3rd/OD+3rd for town or particularly twisty lanes, but also for when you're looking for that overtaking opportunity. When it comes just floor the throttle and slip out of OD - which is instant, by the way - and off you go. Cheers, Richard
  4. D'oh! Stop trying to be clever Richard. You know you're not very good at it. Thank you Roger.
  5. Roger, I was amazed to find that silicone oil is not compatible with silicon rubber. I have sometimes wondered if some of these very supple seals you come across might be made of silicon rubber, and if this is why some brake manufacturers do not recommend Dot-5. Cheers, Richard PS: One comes across these surprising incompatibilities from time to time. I learnt a few weeks ago that Viton is attacked by acetic acid - or lemon juice to you and me!
  6. I understand now Pete, thanks. Cheers, Richard
  7. And the key thing to remember is that this process is driven by the weight of the vehicle on the rotating wheel, not the torque from the engine. The off-axis force - precession - and the clearance fit of the components, plus the slight elasticity of the materials allow the process to take place. The only part the engine plays is to drive the car forward, thus causing both front and rear wheels to rotate. Pete (Bfg) - I'm not yet convinced by your TR4A story, as there are always occasional anecdotes about wire wheels coming off. While I accept that there's more drag on a rear wheel, if what you say is true then I would expect more stories about front wheels making an unscheduled exit! The fronts are not driven, but undergo an intermittent retarding force (the brakes) which ought to drive the process - if true - in the other direction, loosening the wheel cap/nut. Cheers, Richard
  8. It is as Bob says, and the tightening effect only goes so far until friction stops it going further. The effect Marco is called "precession" (Pr├Ązession auf Deutsch?) but I only know this because of explaining to people why bicycle pedals are also threaded the opposite way to what you might think. Cheers, Richard
  9. Yes, corners/sharp edges/needle points will concentrate the field and draw a longer spark for the same voltage. Such a feature on both electrodes will improve the separation further. The only disadvantage is that all the spark erosion will take place in this smaller area so you need to fettle and/or replace your plugs more frequently. Not quite win, win, win but almost! Cheers, Richard PS: If you get a shock from touching e.g. your car, electrical equipment, radiators, etc. then learn to initially touch them with the palm of your hand, not finger tips as your palm will draw little or no spark.
  10. Spit_2.5PI


    Leda, I use a propylene glycol central heating antifreeze - Fernox Alphi 11 (or that might be II) - which, as well as being much less poisonous than ethylene glycol, has anti-corosion additives which last 20 years or so. There is anecdotal evidence on the web that Rolls Royce specified it in their cars, and in any case the manufacturer says it is compatible with all metals and seals found in CH systems. My simple brain thinks that our engines use the same metals and seals, but you may want to do your own research before going down the same route. Cheers, Richard
  11. Both our moderns are converted to have the indicator on the right hand side. My Nearest And Dearest's new(ish) Japanese Suzuki was easily converted to be like her old one, as the Japanese also drive on the correct side of the road and it was simply a matter of unbolt, swap, bolt up. My Volvo required a bit of filing as the so-and-so's had gone out of their way to stop people like me from rectifying their error. No wonder people in Japan drive Japanese cars - the rest of the world don't know to put the indicators on the right! Cheers, Richard
  12. What is the comparison they use? A 5mm brake cable sleeve has the same effective cross section as a trout ... or is it a salmon? This must make the tubes of the bike frame the same XS as a quarter of Wales (sorry!) a medium sized shark? Makes you think about the aerodynamics of your roll-over bar, ehh? Cheers, Richard
  13. Hi Michael. I don't know about your TR, but I fitted plastic bowls to my Spit. I don't recall the manufacturer, but they fitted without any problem. I cut of the backs so I could fit a large rubber blanking plug, which means I can change the bulbs in my Cibies without removing the whole lamp. Do you have access to the back of the bowl in a TR? Cheers, Richard
  14. So, they DON'T just bolt straight in. Send them back. It's the only way these suppliers will learn I'm afraid. Cheers, Richard
  15. Thanks Chris. Jim seems to have been sent a precise list, rather than "anywhere except Cornwall, bits of Devon, Teeside and Scotland" and I wondered if your app did the same ... Cheers, Richard
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.