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Spit_2.5PI

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About Spit_2.5PI

Profile Information

  • Location
    Reading, Berks.
  • Cars Owned:
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70 Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.

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  1. David, this is at the front where the bolts go upward through the windscreen frame into the front lip of the hardtop, right? It sounds like you are missing the two top-hat spacers which you insert into the top of the frame before fitting the hardtop. The bolts go through these and allow them to be done up tight without over-squashing the front seal ... or the tips touching and distorting the hardtop skin. Cheers, Richard Tube/Spacer - 613508 (courtesy of Rimmers web site)
  2. Just so. Also, you, the foreman or QA can inspect the crimp afterwards to see it has been made correctly. With a solder joint it is less obvious that the solder has run back up the wire underneath the insulation. Cheers, Richard
  3. Cellotex lookalike Tony - do you have a link please? Cheers, Richard
  4. Spit_2.5PI

    Locks.

    Please don't use any wet lube such as 3-in-1 or any other oil or grease unless you want to attract dirt which will cause your lock to gum up some time later. Oh, and you will carry round an oily key in your pocket for ages! Graphite is the traditional dry lube for locks, but I have used dry PTFE spray lube (the solvent carries in the PTFE and also cleans the lock, flushing out any grime ... or wet lube) and brought many locks back to life, to give years of continued good service. Cheers, Richard
  5. 31 looks more like a biergarten back home, Marco. Except, where are your steins? Cheers, Richard
  6. Ralph, you know how Atlas's have a reputation for being very slow? Well, so is my Atlas restoration. In theory it should be easy now. Just put the new engine & g'box in and have a suitable bracket fabricated for rear g'box with o'drive mount. Adaptor for new d'draft manifold to 45' SU. Put in the wiring and lights etc. Job done. Just need some time ... and enthusiasm. Don't worry, I'll post if there's any news. Sounds like your 2-litre Atlas was actually a Leyland 15 or 20. The last of these were all fitted with 2l wet-liners. Cheers, Richard
  7. Thanks Rob and MArco. #28 - anywhere in the south of England today. It only rained one time? Yes, all of the day and all of the night! Cheers, Richard
  8. That looks a really nice colour TR Rob, thanks. Cheers, Richard
  9. I'm still waiting for the answer to number 19 - the botanic hothouse. It's not the butterfly place in Eastbourne is it? Cheers, Richard
  10. Silly question: is your alternator working OK? 14.4V with engine running. Cheers, Richard
  11. Sounds like the pump is running too slowly - is the voltage on the low side? With the engine off there is no fuel used - it all goes back to the tank. But with the engine running the extra fuel would lower the pressure and as soon as you open the throttle it will use more still and the pressure drops further. Check the voltage at the pump! Cheers, Richard
  12. I crank the engine but only pull the choke knob when the oil light goes out. Does the trick for me. Cheers, Richard
  13. I think that's partly because they run at 1/2 to 1/3 the pressure (less work done on the fuel) and also that the pressure regulator is under the bonnet. The return pipe has to run all the way to the back to return to the tank and the whole loop constitutes a cooling coil - a linear one, if you see what I mean. At less than max power, this cools the petrol in the tank as well as what's on its way to the injectors. I bought a fuel flow sensor with a view to installing it in the pressure regulator return to the tank. My cunning plan is to lower the pump power when there is high fuel flow (i.
  14. A tenuous variation on my "Stop Polishing etc." suggestion, Alas Smith and Jones Porsche car alarms sketch.
  15. Don't polish your pride and joy or have any rust blemishes sorted. Put a raggy old hood in it. Generally make it look down-at-heel. Cheers, Richard
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