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RogerH

Everco heater valve

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Hi Folks,

a sad day today. The Everco valve arrived from the US (well done RockAuto). But it means the end to my homemade valve.

Gone is the copper piping and the washing machine service valve.

 

I was amazed at what I had to remove.

Firstly remove the old valve

Remove rear outboard head nut and stud

Fit the elbow

Fit the valve.

Adjust the heater valve cable. My cable is on the right hand side of the H frame as per the TR6.

A new cable would have to be cut back to length. Mine need a little adjustment.

I used the 'ring' cable terminal to fit over the valve operating pin. Note - I have change it for Niall's chocolate block terminal.

I have just realised that I'm sure it should be soldered to the solid wire (oops)

 

Fit the rubber heater pipe.

I have a new green pipe but decided to use some very fancy black Concorde piping (I wonder where that came from).

 

Operating is as smooth as the knob will allow - with its ball/detent positioning.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

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Well done, I hope you did not cook too much in the sunshine.

Will we be seeing the 'homemade valve ...of copper piping and the washing machine service valve.' on the BST as a memento to keeping a TR going?

 

Peter W

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Hi Roger. Is that the part 74648 valve? If so, isn’t the outlet pipe of the valve too big for the stock heater hose?

 

Thanks

 

Jim

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Hi Jim,

in a word - yes!!

I do not know what sort of fight the correct green pipe would put up but my Concorde pipe varies with speed :P is quite pliable.

 

I have heard that it will go on though - a little heat and soapy water.

 

Roger

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it is a little larger, but the original hose will fit with a little persuasion :)

...... Andy

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Would this valve work? By that I mean will pressing the cable in completely shut off the water flow?

No matter how I adjusted the cable to a new standard valve some years ago, I cannot get it to shut off (I am doing it manually / on the valve itself on hot days like these) which is a bit annoying.

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Sorry - I was a bit too quick. I see there is enough written about this. Already have ordered one from Rockauto (they're the cheapest around inc P&P)!

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Hi Folks,

a sad day today. The Everco valve arrived from the US (well done RockAuto). But it means the end to my homemade valve.

Gone is the copper piping and the washing machine service valve.

 

I was amazed at what I had to remove.

Firstly remove the old valve

Remove rear outboard head nut and stud

Fit the elbow

Fit the valve.

Adjust the heater valve cable. My cable is on the right hand side of the H frame as per the TR6.

A new cable would have to be cut back to length. Mine need a little adjustment.

I used the 'ring' cable terminal to fit over the valve operating pin. Note - I have change it for Niall's chocolate block terminal.

I have just realised that I'm sure it should be soldered to the solid wire (oops)

 

Fit the rubber heater pipe.

I have a new green pipe but decided to use some very fancy black Concorde piping (I wonder where that came from).

 

Operating is as smooth as the knob will allow - with its ball/detent positioning.

 

Roger

 

Roger

 

Did it fit into the elbow OK?

 

John

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Hi John,

it went in 2+ full turns there is a BSP/NTP mismatch but ti works. I used PTFE tape, others use liquid PTFE.

 

The only complication is that you need to remove the rear offside head nut and stud and rocker cover..

 

Roger

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