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  1. Today I found out what the problem with the hi torque starter was.... I was going to turn the engine over for the first time and each time I turned the key all I got was a loud clunk, and the ammeter went to -100amps (if it could!). Starter out and took the back plate off to find the terminal/pole connected to the battery had turned on the inside when I was tightening the nut on the outside and was touching, now fused, to the body. it is now back to it's correct place with another lock nut on the o/s and the starter spins on the bench. Hopefully I'll get to crank the engine tomo
  2. I continued the copper along the chassis, across the back of the front crossmember (under the brake pipe) and then with a bit of twisting and turning came up beside the cross tube where it can be fixed before changing to rubber (ethanol proof J30 R9) and then fitting to the front carb. Just waiting on the other heatshields before fitting the TBs..
  3. Cheers Alan, that looks like the culprit....thanks.
  4. Can anyone identify this character please...
  5. Thanks Rob, I'll check the reading next time I'm in the garage.
  6. I was trying to trace some wires in my 6 rebuild and when I connected the meter to the white and red going to the starter motor, everything I touched caused the meter to beep, the block, body, brown wires on the starter..... Does this point to my high torque stater's demise, my leccy abilities are limited but I know how to wire a relay, it was working fine 12 months ago before strip down and obviously has done nothing since
  7. Fitted a plastic split cover from TRGB a few weeks, although they claim it's the best fitting one available (don't they all) I still needed to make 'adjustments' but I am happy with the result.
  8. Liberal amounts of lube, silicone grease if poly bushes (it'll also help them not squeak later!) of Fairy liquid.... And I've never had an issue with fitting them in a vice, apart from the odd one that flies past my ear!
  9. Fitting the biggest battery that will fit in the space provided is a good start, and use the currently sparingly Pair of tights in the tool box will take care of a broken fan belt, spent the day driving the Ring of Kerry a few years ago with a pair of Pretty Polly's keeping the show on the road after my dynamo ran a bearing (don't do the fan belt up too tight )
  10. I have a simple toggle switch hidden under the dash which cuts the low tension lead as per Hamish's suggestion.
  11. I left my pipes long on the ends, I bought it from a plumbing suppliers, and will use compression fittings to join up once the body is back on. According to Moss your spare pipe goes from the PRV to the feed pipe on the chassis, item 66. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/fuel-system-induction-controls/fuel-injection/fuel-system-tr6-from-c-cp50001-1969-76.html
  12. The two small holes are PRV, large hole beside them is return and large hole in front is feed. For orientation front of car is to the left and the square white thing is the bump stop. I used Car Builder Solutions for pipe clips. BPC2 for brake pipe, there is a similar clip for copper fuel pipe on there somewhere and BFPC for fuel/brake pipes. I used Moss anti rattle clips 148820 for inside the 'tunnel', that was as far as I could reach! I don't think the copper pipe was ever fixed to the MU, as there needs
  13. Look in the classifieds, Conrad Hunt is selling PI parts.
  14. As a resident of Ireland I am lucky to be able to avail of several options. The retailers, which is usually the quickest but most expensive. And there are several mail forwarding companies that only charge a small fee (ideal for Ebay free postage items) and can be collected locally or from the post office. Maybe it's because we are such close neighbours that these services are available to us, but it may be worth checking out if this type of service is available from where ever you live. Oh, and I've had a parcel refused because it was unnecessarily large, and only because
  15. Thank you gents, I will go with a small bit of advance and if Triumph built them with the same degree of accuracy then I'm happy with that. Got my TDC with the head off and then fitted the pulley, which was in fairness on the mark. So it will all get bolted up later.......
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