stillp

Thanks Mick. Half a lifetime ago I was involved in strain measurement, and I recall vaguely some tests we made on lubricated versus unlubricated fasteners. Compared to a degreased fastener (cleaned in an ultrasonic tank with Genklene followed by a vapour rinse), the tensile load achieved for the torque we were using increased dramatically with any lubrication, even a thin film of WD40. There was a much smaller difference when the WD40 was replaced by oil, and a further small difference when we tried Molyslip. These tests were done with stainless screws into an aircraft grade of aluminium alloy. This would suggest to me that unless the fasteners are really thorougly degreased, it makes little difference if they are lubricated or not. When I was tuning Imp engines Rootes used to advise that studs be lubricated with a Shell Ensys fluid, can't remember which one though. Pete

Something I've often wondered about "dry" torque figures: how dry? When I've been in engine assembly lines, all the parts seem to have a coating of oil, presumably to resist corrosion. Should we degrease fasteners before torquing them up? Pete

They wouldn't, they'd just create stress points that would weaken the area. Is anyone else disappointed that the MSA don't seem to know the difference between traction and tension? Pete

Yep, been there, done that... Also had the flu-like symptoms from welding zinc-coated steel. Pete

I don't want to worry anyone, but received the following from HSE: "There is new scientific evidence from the International Agency for Research on Cancer that exposure to mild steel welding fume can cause lung cancer and possibly kidney cancer in humans. The Workplace Health Expert Committee has endorsed the reclassification of mild steel welding fume as a human carcinogen. With immediate effect, there is a strengthening of HSE’s enforcement expectation for all welding fume, including mild steel welding; because general ventilation does not achieve the necessary control." Pete

Thanks for letting us know!

Not a leak, but a high resistance in series with the coil. Is the small earth lead to the points in good condition? Easy enough to check by adding a second one. Should be easy enough to find where the voltage drop is; leave one lead of your meter connected to the chassis/body and measure the voltage at the battery, then the solenoid, then the fusebox, and so on. Pete

Or anything else between the battery and the coil! Fusebox is more likely to be a high resistance I'd have thought. Where were you measuring 7 volts, and with respect to what? (i.e. where was the other lead of your meter?) Pete

The usual brilliant insanity, thanks Hamish. Pete

They should come with a replacement for the starter, which I think is just a link, so you don't need to remove the old ballast. Pete

Well, from what I can gather, someone asked a question (that they shouldn't have needed to ask) and had an answer. Was this the chassis that was on ebay a few weeks ago for £50? Pete

Sod's law I suppose - a couple of days' inattention and something interesting happens - then gets pulled before I can read it! Pete

It's on the DVLA computer as taxed: https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/ViewVehicle Pete

Yes, it was very common. Spotlight angled to pick out the nearside kerb, fog light to give a spread of light across the road. Pete

They won't stay at that price for long!