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Yes I know it's a TR4!! At first thought it was glove box door. But no, glove box is secure. Passenger door secure with no play in hinge. Can't see anything obvious underneath the car. Has been present for ages but seemed more annoying on my first run this month.

Seems to be from left side forward if the seat. Perhaps I'm just getting older and more picky but probably more to do with road surfaces these days. 

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1 hour ago, John Mellor said:

Yes I know it's a TR4!! At first thought it was glove box door. But no, glove box is secure. Passenger door secure with no play in hinge. Can't see anything obvious underneath the car. Has been present for ages but seemed more annoying on my first run this month.

Seems to be from left side forward if the seat. Perhaps I'm just getting older and more picky but probably more to do with road surfaces these days. 

Tonneau zipped half up?

As unlikely as this seems….

The slider on my tonneau has an audible tickling noise when half the tonneau is fitted and the slider is by my shoulder.

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10 minutes ago, 62-tr4-DK said:

I found a cause for the rattle in my Tr4 in the bonnet stay... !?

Covering the stay in HeatShrink sleeving will reduce the rattle noise.

 

Roger

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Foreign body (a marble etc) in the plenum chamber near the water drain.

 

When I first got my 4A on the road the return springs on the rear drums where rattling against the shoes.

I put some Silicone RTV joining the springs and the shoes together

 

Roger 

 

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Many thanks folks I'll go through those suggestions. Will be nice to have a peaceful interior???????

Love mechanical noises from front end and exhaust.

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My annoying rattle turned out to be loose plates located just behind each b-pillar. These plates were previously used to secure the folding hood mechanism that had been made redundant following conversion to Surrey Top - at least that’s my theory.

David

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57 minutes ago, Dady said:

My annoying rattle turned out to be loose plates located just behind each b-pillar. These plates were previously used to secure the folding hood mechanism that had been made redundant following conversion to Surrey Top - at least that’s my theory.

David

A lot do forget to do that but the OP has a soft top car.

Stuart.

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  • 2 months later...

I've chased a rattle for two years.  Yes, I isolated the bonnet prop.  I put a pad under the wiper motor,  I put sleeves on various cables.  Knmow about the door rattle (not a frequent source). In the end, my rattle was the bonnet itself not firm against the aft corner rubber cones. Last annoyance on car, victory!

I can adjust the cones up, but corners will be lifted, yes?  They must be meant to align the corners - very tapered and not soft.  Temporary fix was topping them w pieces of sponge from kitchen.  Has anyone found replacement cones soft enough to compress?

HR

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Can you not adjust the catch to pull the bonnet down onto the cones?

Ralph

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Make sure that you have an emergency bonnet release in place before tightening bonnet onto the cones.

Ian Cornish

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8 hours ago, Henry TR4A said:

I've chased a rattle for two years.  Yes, I isolated the bonnet prop.  I put a pad under the wiper motor,  I put sleeves on various cables.  Knmow about the door rattle (not a frequent source). In the end, my rattle was the bonnet itself not firm against the aft corner rubber cones. Last annoyance on car, victory!

I can adjust the cones up, but corners will be lifted, yes?  They must be meant to align the corners - very tapered and not soft.  Temporary fix was topping them w pieces of sponge from kitchen.  Has anyone found replacement cones soft enough to compress?

HR

They need to be reasonably hard to do their job. They need to sit dead in the middle of the pressed cup on the bonnet frame, if not then they dont do their job, also the side runners in the rain channels need to actually doing their job to hold the bonnet in the right place. You need to balance the height of the cones and the adjustment of the spring catch to hold the bonnet down correctly. Its not a five minute job but its the only way to stop it moving about. Also do you have the right amont of the dampening felt between the skin and the frame?

Stuart

 

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Brake and clutch copper pipes on engine bulkhead to left of battery with small clamp. 

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