New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner

[David Owen]

Thank you very much.

[David Owen]

It looks to me as though the hard pipe is the right one and is put on the wrong way. It just needs to be reinstalled properly.  I think the bends are correct.

Edited February 7, 2021 by David Owen

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

9 minutes ago, David Owen said:

It looks to me as though the hard pipe is the right one and is put on the wrong way. It just needs to be reinstalled properly.  I think the bends are correct.

Do not forget the ‘P’ clip to the rearmost fuel pump stud to support it all.

 

[David Owen]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Do not forget the ‘P’ clip to the rearmost fuel pump stud to support it all.

 

Thanks Peter.  I was wondering what the betting pool amount has reached that I won't drain the oil before I change the pipe? 

Edited February 7, 2021 by David Owen

[Lebro]

No need to, oil will only come out if you crank or start the engine

Bob

[David Owen]

32 minutes ago, Lebro said:

No need to, oil will only come out if you crank or start the engine

Bob

 

 

Thank you.  Managed to get the engine ground wire replaced today (thanks Peter) along with a couple of other small items.  I will sort out the oil pressure pipe next weekend. Great pictures.  Thanks all.

Adjusting the distributor cap is something I will have to figure out a bit later.  The vacuum advance pipe winds all over the place.

[David Owen]

So i found this sitting on the frame when I was pfaffing about trying to get the nut back on the bolt for the engine ground wire where it attaches to the frame.  Should I be swearing heavily because it's broken off something important?

[Ralph Whitaker]

David, it looks like part of the temperature gauge capilliary tube and bulb where it goes into the thermostat housing, but it is hard to be sure from the photo. If the smaller diameter part is a copper pipe wrapped around with wire then that is probably what it was. They are known for seizing into the housing. This is probably all thats left over after someone had to chop it out.

Ralph

[Lebro]

I don't recognise it at all as being from a TR.

My 1st thought when I saw it was being part of a hydraulic timing chain tensioner, which uses a spring loaded ratchet mechanism to stop it backing off when engine is stopped.

And then I thought no, the "ratchet" would be pointing the wrong way, next thought is that it is part of a hand tool a kind of self gripping pipe wrench, where the spring would help release the grip when backing off.

Bob.

 

Edited February 14, 2021 by Lebro

[John Morrison]

My first thoughts were non TR, and it i svery like part of the internals from a drill chuck?

John.

[David Owen]

8 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

David, it looks like part of the temperature gauge capilliary tube and bulb where it goes into the thermostat housing, but it is hard to be sure from the photo. If the smaller diameter part is a copper pipe wrapped around with wire then that is probably what it was. They are known for seizing into the housing. This is probably all thats left over after someone had to chop it out.

Ralph

Thanks Ralph, the temp gauge is electric/electronic so I think that makes a difference as I think in that case

there isn't a capillary tube? <-note the question mark!

[David Owen]

8 hours ago, Lebro said:

I don't recognise it at all as being from a TR.

My 1st thought when I saw it was being part of a hydraulic timing chain tensioner, which uses a spring loaded ratchet mechanism to stop it backing off when engine is stopped.

And then I thought no, the "ratchet" would be pointing the wrong way, next thought is that it is part of a hand tool a kind of self gripping pipe wrench, where the spring would help release the grip when backing off.

Bob.

 

 

7 hours ago, John Morrison said:

My first thoughts were non TR, and it i svery like part of the internals from a drill chuck?

John.

 

 

Hmmm.  I haven't broken any tools lately. Thanks guys.  Less to worry about.

[RobH]

2 hours ago, David Owen said:

there isn't a capillary tube? <-note the question mark!

No there isn't in your case and I agree with John.  Goodness only knows what that is part of, but it's nothing I've ever seen on a TR. 

[David Owen]

THanks for the above ROb.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a pipe/line bending tool that would cover the TR3 line sizes?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

TR pipe sizes are 1/8”. Oil pressure line.   3/16” most of the brake/hydraulic lines.  1/4” supply pipes from master cylinder reservoir to master cylinders and the fuel pump to carbs. 5/16” main fuel line tank to pump.  This line may be 1/4” on your car as it is a late 3A with no fuel tap.   You need to measure!

Harbour Freight offer two on this page.  https://harborfreight.com/plumbing/plumbing-tools/pipe-threaders-cutters-benders.html

closer to home for you this type works fine.  https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-180-tube-bender-0638783p.html#srp

I have both types and find them quite adequate.  The pipe flairing  tool I use for best results to make brake lines is from Sykes Pickavant.   Not cheap but is quick and correct.https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/vice-mounted/63   You may not find this type though.

  Cut pipes with a proper pipe cutter to get a clean cut with square ends.  Do not forget to de burr.  Again this is the style I have and use.  https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-tube-cutter-1-8-to-7-8-in-0638778p.html#srp

Peter W

 

PS. Eastwood Auto might be worth a look.  https://www.eastwood.com/international-distributors
https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bender-and-forming-pliers-kit.html

Edited March 11, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Ian Vincent]

1 hour ago, David Owen said:

THanks for the above ROb.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a pipe/line bending tool that would cover the TR3 line sizes?

I bought one from Machine Mart in the UK, similar to the one offered below but a bit cheaper.  It worked for me although to get the really tight bends at the master cylinders I filled the pipe with sand and bent it by hand.

Micro Tube Bender

Rgds Ian

[David Owen]

On 3/11/2021 at 10:32 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

TR pipe sizes are 1/8”. Oil pressure line.   3/16” most of the brake/hydraulic lines.  1/4” supply pipes from master cylinder reservoir to master cylinders and the fuel pump to carbs. 5/16” main fuel line tank to pump.  This line may be 1/4” on your car as it is a late 3A with no fuel tap.   You need to measure!

Harbour Freight offer two on this page.  https://harborfreight.com/plumbing/plumbing-tools/pipe-threaders-cutters-benders.html

closer to home for you this type works fine.  https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-180-tube-bender-0638783p.html#srp

I have both types and find them quite adequate.  The pipe flairing  tool I use for best results to make brake lines is from Sykes Pickavant.   Not cheap but is quick and correct.https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/vice-mounted/63   You may not find this type though.

  Cut pipes with a proper pipe cutter to get a clean cut with square ends.  Do not forget to de burr.  Again this is the style I have and use.  https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-tube-cutter-1-8-to-7-8-in-0638778p.html#srp

Peter W

 

PS. Eastwood Auto might be worth a look.  https://www.eastwood.com/international-distributors
https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bender-and-forming-pliers-kit.html

 

 

Thanks Peter.  Another new adventure.

[David Owen]

On 3/11/2021 at 11:49 AM, Ian Vincent said:

I bought one from Machine Mart in the UK, similar to the one offered below but a bit cheaper.  It worked for me although to get the really tight bends at the master cylinders I filled the pipe with sand and bent it by hand.

Micro Tube Bender

Rgds Ian

 

 

Thank you Ian.

[David Owen]

On 2/7/2021 at 5:21 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Reasonably good view   Not mine 

 

Any tips on the order of bending and measuring when replacing the oil pressure line?  Also, getting at the rear bolt of the fuel pump to attach the p-clip is posing a bit of a challenge. It would seem that working back from the firewall is the best option.  Am I missing anything?

Edited March 14, 2021 by David Owen

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

3 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

Any tips on the order of bending and measuring when replacing the oil pressure line?  Also, getting at the rear bolt of the fuel pump to attach the p-clip is posing a bit of a challenge. It would seem that working back from the firewall is the best option.  Am I missing anything?

This works for me.

1/4” sq drive flex socket with 1/2” AF hexagon

 

To find oil pipe length push a length of wire down your existing pipe & measure

Peter W

Edited March 14, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[David Owen]

Thanks Peter.  Unfortunately the original line ran up from the exit point from the engine and along the rubber heater hose that ran from the water pump to the bulkhead.  That is now all replaced.  The pictures are helpful.  I think I will mess about with the old line for a bit to see if I can shape it properly, or maybe even a piece of heavier wire that will maintain its form.  Thanks for the idea.

On another note, does anyone have any tips for getting the %#$%% bullet connectors down the stator tube in the steering column. 

[Lebro]

Pass a thin single wire down the tube, then attach the end of it to the bullet which is on the longest wire, & pull it into the tube, as it goes in feed in the next longest & so on till all 4 are in the tube one behind the other, then pull them all through to the bottom.

(Sounds easy doesn't it !)

Good luck

Bob.

[james christie]

Yes, we all have ideas for those bullet connectors, here are mine:

1) Make sure they are ‘staggered’ and not like a bunch of roses. This helps to reduce the diameter. Tape them together lightly

2) Shove a bit of strong wire up the steering shaft from the bottom and fix it firmly through the bunch of wires, which you have taped together. Life isa bit easier if you centralise the pull wire in the bunch of electrical wires.

Get an assistant to feed everything into the shaft at the top having greased things a bit, while you pull gently from the bottom end. If it don’t work, summat’s wrong
 

Good luck!

james

Edit: Ah! Bob got there first!

Edited March 21, 2021 by james christie

[Lebro]

Yes, but your answer was more comprehensive than mine 

Bob.

[David Owen]

Well I tried a version of those solutions then after a number of tries I cut the @$@$!$R@$T things off and replaced them when it was in. 

Thanks guys.