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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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8 minutes ago, Lebro said:

I get a very small amount of leakage out of the back of my selector shafts, I did consider dismantling it to do Rogers fix, but having read about the taper screws snapping, which could cause a lot of effort to recover, I opted to leave well alone, as Ralph says it only helps to preserve the chassis further back !

Bob.

 

Thanks for the info Bob.  I think I will just get a new top and install it.

On another note, you mentioned somewhere that you installed a relay for the horns.  How did you decide to do that that and what type of relay did you install?  I now have a set of originals that I am going to install and was thinking if you did it I should as well.

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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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David.

It was while I had the front off the car recently, before I switched to LED headlight bulbs I used 4 X relays to drive the halogen ones. all the wiring had to be undone anyway, so decided they were not needed now. At that time I thought it would be a good idea to use one of them to drive the horns, since they take quite a lot of current, & it all has to go along a pretty thin wire up the steering column to the horn push. Nothing special about the relay, just a normal automotive type rated at about 30 Amps I think. I attached to the rear of the alloy bar running over the top of the front apron. on right hand side near where the horn push wire comes out. You would need it on the other side of course.

Bob.

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3 minutes ago, Lebro said:

David.

It was while I had the front off the car recently, before I switched to LED headlight bulbs I used 4 X relays to drive the halogen ones. all the wiring had to be undone anyway, so decided they were not needed now. At that time I thought it would be a good idea to use one of them to drive the horns, since they take quite a lot of current, & it all has to go along a pretty thin wire up the steering column to the horn push. Nothing special about the relay, just a normal automotive type rated at about 30 Amps I think. I attached to the rear of the alloy bar running over the top of the front apron. on right hand side near where the horn push wire comes out. You would need it on the other side of course.

Bob.

 

Thank you.  Perfect time to do it as I am replacing the wiring in the steering column and the control head.

1540925630_Frontview.JPG.ac9e9cfe42ac00db83ea9f42f6d6ca0a.JPG

 

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While you are in there check the engine to chassis earth strap is in best order and it has clean contact each end to engine and chassis respectively.

Could also be worth doing the steering cross shaft bushes if they are in anyway oil soaked.

This is the kit in my car. https://mossmotors.com/bush-pin-kit-delrin-bushes-stainless-steel-pins-set-of-2-replaces-667-042?assoc=66739

Cheers

Peter W

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42 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

While you are in there check the engine to chassis earth strap is in best order and it has clean contact each end to engine and chassis respectively.

Could also be worth doing the steering cross shaft bushes if they are in anyway oil soaked.

This is the kit in my car. https://mossmotors.com/bush-pin-kit-delrin-bushes-stainless-steel-pins-set-of-2-replaces-667-042?assoc=66739

Cheers

Peter W

 

I think this is what you are talking about Peter.  The bushings were replaced when I first acquired the car.  I had the front end done because it was dangerously loose.  However, I didn't do it (probably a very good thing) and I wasn't aware of the higher end replacements available.   These are the Silentbloc Pivot Bush base model.  Thank you, I appreciate the input.  Another lesson.

Steering.png.99e34616f613a5774246a71f411c42cd.png

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12 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Got those in mine also, albeit from the TR shop


They look pretty clean and my list is already too long to replace 5 month old bushings, it will take me a month and a half to get them.

I think I will have to remove both front fenders, for different reasons, now.

The driver's right side to replace a cage nut on the lower door hinge and the left to see if the cage nuts are still there to attach the dimmer switch bracket.  There aren't any holes inside the foot well side of the kick plate.

 

 

Edited by David Owen
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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

While you are in there check the engine to chassis earth strap is in best order and it has clean contact each end to engine and chassis respectively.

Could also be worth doing the steering cross shaft bushes if they are in anyway oil soaked.

This is the kit in my car. https://mossmotors.com/bush-pin-kit-delrin-bushes-stainless-steel-pins-set-of-2-replaces-667-042?assoc=66739

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

:lol:  Just added to my parts order. 

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The lower picture shows an older part - probably from a TR2 / 3 gearbox which does not have synchromesh on 1st gear.

If so it may not be compatible with your later box. What was the Ebay description ?

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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1 minute ago, Lebro said:

The lower picture shows an older part - probably from a TR2 / 3 gearbox which does not have synchromesh on 1st gear.

If so it may not be compatible with your later box. What was the Ebay description ?

Bob.

I have a TR2 gearbox lid Bob and it is compatible with my 2000 saloon gearbox.  That's how I have a dipstick.

Rgds Ian

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That's good then, in which case David should be ok.  

David. if you go this way, you will need to measure the diameter of that dipstick hole, so that I can make the dipstick the right size.

I drilled mine 20mm because that was the size drill I had, I think the original size was different to that (but not much)

Bob.

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What is the third boss on David`s original top, reversing light switch?

My saloon gearbox has an extension on the end of the 3rd/4th shaft to operate the o/d switch which is mounted on a bracket attached by the gearlever cup bolts, and the reverse switch is fitted on the side of the housing. For a cash strapped company Triumph certainly came up with plenty of different ways of doing the same job.

Ralph.

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The last one looks identical to your old one. However there are advantages to having the one with the dipstick hole, not least being ease of checking oil level and topping up if you put the necessary accses hole in the tunnel.

Ralph

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A shame the 2nd photo along does not enlarge, from one of the others there does seem to be some sort of hole where the dipstick would go, maybe it does not go all the way through,  but yes I would say the 2nd one is a 4 synchro top, but despite the description the 1st one is actually for a 3 synchro. But Ian says it will fit anyway.  The 2nd one does not have the wire locking on the taper pins, so has probably been apart at some stage in its life.

Bob.

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11 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

 

My saloon gearbox has an extension on the end of the 3rd/4th shaft to operate the o/d switch which is mounted on a bracket attached by the gearlever cup bolts,

Ralph.

Thats not original fitment.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Thats not original fitment.

Stuart.

I don`t know, all the parts look properly manufactured, the bracket is a fairly substantial pressing shaped around the extension housing, and the extra bit on the selector shaft is cast in one with the 3/4th selector. I re used it because I wasn`t sure if I drilled and tapped the boss on the top that there would be the neccessary inside to work the switch. I was told it was from an early Mk1 2000 saloon. I haven`t got a parts book for the 2000 so cannot check.

Ralph

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6 hours ago, Lebro said:

A shame the 2nd photo along does not enlarge, from one of the others there does seem to be some sort of hole where the dipstick would go, maybe it does not go all the way through,  but yes I would say the 2nd one is a 4 synchro top, but despite the description the 1st one is actually for a 3 synchro. But Ian says it will fit anyway.  The 2nd one does not have the wire locking on the taper pins, so has probably been apart at some stage in its life.

Bob.

 

If mine had the wire on the tapered pins I might have had second thoughts about taking it apart and not be in this situation.   :lol:

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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

I don`t know, all the parts look properly manufactured, the bracket is a fairly substantial pressing shaped around the extension housing, and the extra bit on the selector shaft is cast in one with the 3/4th selector. I re used it because I wasn`t sure if I drilled and tapped the boss on the top that there would be the neccessary inside to work the switch. I was told it was from an early Mk1 2000 saloon. I haven`t got a parts book for the 2000 so cannot check.

Ralph

Yep saloon orig fitment.   I have a NOS switch bracket that you are describing.

and the 3/4 selector rod is extended rearwards.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yep saloon orig fitment.   I have a NOS switch bracket that you are describing.

and the 3/4 selector rod is extended rearwards.

 

Peter W

OK well learnt something there, Ive only ever had one MK1 PI and that was back in the 70`s and I didnt keep it long .

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yep saloon orig fitment.   I have a NOS switch bracket that you are describing.

and the 3/4 selector rod is extended rearwards.

 

Peter W

Is the bracket for sale?. Mine was very rusty and had to weld up to put some strength back into it. Alternatively I do have a couple of 3 syncro non overdrive gearbox tops but wasn`t too sure that they would fit.

Ralph

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