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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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As you can see, where the arrow is pointing the receptacle for the speedometer main light is broken off.  There was a LED glued to to the casing.  It didn't work.  Any ideas on how to remedy this so a proper socket can be used?

 

1851757136_RearofSpeedo.jpg.f79a105021ff5762c548b5ae6750d14d.jpg

 

Edited by David Owen
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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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You need one of these David, part no 13H1924. Later speedos had these as standard. Don`t think there is anything broken off on yours.

Ralph

 

image.png.b52c1c05b933c2be8bb05cf6daed5bc0.png

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8 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

Thanks Bob that cleared up a couple of things for me.  What I was really interested in is this connector.  Does the wire get pushed down into the "fork" to make a connection or something else?

Socket.jpg.fe6316364a282ea6738d6d90f6d1f52d.jpg

David

on all of mine both speed/Rev and the separate dash lights these “forks” are folded over the wire to clamp a bit then soldered. 
 

I have seen other pics on the web with the same method so presume they are right.

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Edited by Hamish
Duplicate system hiccup
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OK, I see which sort it is now. The holder allows for two wires to be soldered onto the top. the "hooks" are in pairs, strip the wire back approx 3 -4mm, guide it through the hooks till the stripped part is within the furthest hook, then squeeze the hook down, & solder the wire into it. then squeeze the second hook down to trap the insulated part of the wire. As there are two pairs of hooks you can daisy chain the two panel light holders the wire originating from the panel light switch, to the first of these, then the second, then on to the first of the large instruments & so on.  

Bob.

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Polarity question:  On the Ignition warning lamp does the white wire to the ignition switch connect to the bullet connector or to the base (the clips) of the bulb holder?   Also, what gauge should those wires be?

And out of interest, on a negative ground car, am I correct in saying that the flow is from the control box to the ignition warning lamp to the ignition switch?

Edited by David Owen
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33 minutes ago, David Owen said:

Polarity question:  On the Ignition warning lamp does the white wire to the ignition switch connect to the bullet connector or to the base (the clips) of the bulb holder?   Also, what gauge should those wires be?

And out of interest, on a negative ground car, am I correct in saying that the flow is from the control box to the ignition warning lamp to the ignition switch?  YES   Peter W

 

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The bulb holder is different on the two warning lights than the dash illumination ones. You need a bulb holder with two separate connections on it, neither of which is connected to earth.

Bob

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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

The bulb holder is different on the two warning lights than the dash illumination ones. You need a bulb holder with two separate connections on it, neither of which is connected to earth.

Bob

 

 

Thanks Bob.  I have the correct sockets.  My first attempt a wrinkle paint came out OK.  I found an original mirror on e-bay.

9105294_Dashpaint.jpg.ce96c26fd6ff4e84116978032f896679.jpg

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1104642155_220RacrossignLED1.thumb.JPG.298af269d34b2dcf6f4a379c0f07946a.JPG

Does this help.  Ignore the resistor if you are fitting normal filament bulb.

I needed it because I am using an LED bulb, & it did not pass enough current to activate my Alternator.

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14 minutes ago, Lebro said:

1104642155_220RacrossignLED1.thumb.JPG.298af269d34b2dcf6f4a379c0f07946a.JPG

Does this help.  Ignore the resistor if you are fitting normal filament bulb.

I needed it because I am using an LED bulb, & it did not pass enough current to activate my Alternator.

 

 

That's great thank you.

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I'm a little confused by the ignition switch wiring on this diagram.  Shouldn't the connection to the starter push switch be on the opposite side of the ignition switch to where the power comes in from the connection that runs from the ignition warning light?

Also, how do I tell which side of the ignition switch connects to the warning light side of the circuit?  Or does it not matter?

 

395178178_ignitionwiring1.jpg.1ca52efad7ba55e4f55165dfbc788e25.jpg

Edited by David Owen
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No. Power does not come from the warning light. It comes from the wire on the left labelled NU, through the switch to the three white wires.  Since the switch is a simple single-pole make type, it doesn't really matter which way round it is wired.

The ignition light is connected between the switched live and the output from the generator. If the generator voltage is lower than the battery the lamp will have a potential across it and will light. When the generator produces the same voltage as the battery there is no potential across the bulb so it goes out. That is all it does. 

Edited by RobH
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7 minutes ago, RobH said:

No. Power does not come from the warning light. It comes from the wire on the left labelled NU, through the switch to the three white wires.  Since the switch is a simple single-pole make type, it doesn't really matter which way round it is wired.

The ignition light is connected between the switched live and the output from the generator. If the generator voltage is lower than the battery the lamp will have a potential across it and will light. When the generator produces the same voltage as the battery there is no potential across the bulb so it goes out. That is all it does. 

 

Thank you. Makes sense now.

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5 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Thanks Bob.  I have the correct sockets.  My first attempt a wrinkle paint came out OK.  I found an original mirror on e-bay.

9105294_Dashpaint.jpg.ce96c26fd6ff4e84116978032f896679.jpg

Did you also paint the screen centre buffer bracket?  The one that is held by the mirror screws with the mirror to the scuttle top.

Peter W

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Did you also paint the screen centre buffer bracket?  The one that is held by the mirror screws with the mirror to the scuttle top.

Peter W

 

 

Is that like virtual grounding :rolleyes: or is that the part Stuart identified a few weeks back that everyone forgets?  If it's the latter, I forgot I needed one.  The car didn't have one.  I just put it on my next order list.  Thank you very much for the reminder.

 

 

Edited by David Owen
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8 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Is that like virtual grounding :rolleyes: or is that the part Stuart identified a few weeks back that everyone forgets?  If it's the latter, I forgot I needed one.  The car didn't have one.  I just put it on my next order list.  Thank you very much for the reminder.

 

 

item 14 is the bracket and 15 is the rubber buffer

Acknowledgement Moss Europe as drawn by Peter Taylor

image.thumb.png.c047548224ace1ec4c31b1d313d0b395.png

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6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

item 14 is the bracket and 15 is the rubber buffer

Acknowledgement Moss Europe as drawn by Peter Taylor

image.thumb.png.c047548224ace1ec4c31b1d313d0b395.png

Is that part (14, 15) fitted to stop the screen frame flexing ?

 

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