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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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15 hours ago, David Owen said:

Has anyone changed the oil pressure pipe from the engine to the p-clip on the fuel pump with the engine in the car?  If so how did you come at the bolt on the fuel pump?

You need a 1/4" drive 7/16" wobbly socket. Like this Socket

Stuart.

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If anyone is up for some questions it would be appreciated:

How do I identify the distributor type?  I am replacing the vacuum advance and it's tube and need to match them.

Is there a significant performance/quality difference between the Revotec fan and the Hayden fan offered by Moss?  Is there a better option?

Thank you,

David
 

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This will help identify the model, could either be DM2P4, or 25D4

https://blog.simonbbc.com/about-distributors/identify-my-distributor/

If DM2 then the type number should be 

40480B/E   TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR 1957

40480B/E   TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR 1958

40480F       TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR 1959

If 25D4 then type number should be

40783A       TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR

The Model & type number are stamped into the side of the body just under the top of the metal rim on the side facing away from the engine.

Hope this helps

Bob.

This may be of use also:                  http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf

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13 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

What have you got here?

Rads.jpg

 

All the markings are missing.  I tested the fan and have found where a good amount of the rattle and squeak was coming from when I was driving the car last year.  I took the fan apart and put some oil on the bearing (probably the wrong thing to do) and it still makes a lot of non-fan noise.  I will try it again today to see if the oil has worked any magic.

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14 hours ago, Lebro said:

This will help identify the model, could either be DM2P4, or 25D4

https://blog.simonbbc.com/about-distributors/identify-my-distributor/

If DM2 then the type number should be 

40480B/E   TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR 1957

40480B/E   TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR 1958

40480F       TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR 1959

If 25D4 then type number should be

40783A       TRIUMPH TR3 SPORTS CAR

The Model & type number are stamped into the side of the body just under the top of the metal rim on the side facing away from the engine.

Hope this helps

Bob.

This may be of use also:                  http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf

 

Thank you.

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On 3/27/2021 at 6:43 AM, stuart said:

You need a 1/4" drive 7/16" wobbly socket. Like this Socket

Stuart.

23 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Alternatively cut down an open ended spanner to fit.

 Rgds Ian 

 

Well a lack of mechanical intuition has reared it's ugly head once again.  I neglected to mention that the bolts on the fuel pump were 1/2", I did buy the right socket but it didn't register in my mind that the difference in socket/bolt size is likely what's making it awkward.  So I will go with Ian's solution today.

Edited by David Owen
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Four seasons fans ?  https://www.4s.com/en/products/cooling-fan-assemblies/overview/about-cooling-fan-assemblies
Or Hayden  https://www.haydenauto.com/en/products/fan-controllers/hayden-fan-controllers/electric-fan-controllers
Oddly their sites look identical   Same company but different product names?

You need to decide if you want a fully thermostatically controlled fan (Revotec) or just a fan with a switch and driver input to control temp when required.   This second option usually is dangerous if you lend the car to someone less mechanically sympathetic or adept.

I think from you geographic locations I’d go Hayden.

Be sure you can get the electric fan out of the engine bay without having to remove the front apron.   Fiddly but Less damaging to paint etc if that is the case.

Peter W

 

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40 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Four seasons fans ?  https://www.4s.com/en/products/cooling-fan-assemblies/overview/about-cooling-fan-assemblies
Or Hayden  https://www.haydenauto.com/en/products/fan-controllers/hayden-fan-controllers/electric-fan-controllers
Oddly their sites look identical   Same company but different product names?

You need to decide if you want a fully thermostatically controlled fan (Revotec) or just a fan with a switch and driver input to control temp when required.   This second option usually is dangerous if you lend the car to someone less mechanically sympathetic or adept.

I think from you geographic locations I’d go Hayden.

Be sure you can get the electric fan out of the engine bay without having to remove the front apron.   Fiddly but Less damaging to paint etc if that is the case.

Peter W

 

 

Definitely a thermostatic set up.  The car is already wired and has a separate harness for the electronic dash temperature gauge, the fan, fan relay, and the fan thermostat.  I haven't replaced that harness as it appears to be in good enough shape.  I think all I need is the fan and a new thermostat.  I was more concerned about the quality and effectiveness of the different fans.

Thank you for the sage advice on the placement of the fan. 

Edited by David Owen
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The fan make we like in Europe is SPAL.  They have an office in USA which might or might not be of use to you commercially compared to buying from Europe.

just be sure to measure the size of fan you have fitted and get a direct dimensional replacement to save faffing with the fixings.

https://www.spalusa.com/

info. https://www.streetmusclemag.com/news/spal-electric-fans-keeping-things-cool-with-different-blade-types/

Peter W

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Thanks Peter.

 I bet y'all didn't know if someone uses 1/2" nuts on the fuel pump (instead of the spec'd 7/16"),  when you undo the rear most nut and remove it the last few turns with your fingers it can very easily slip and get caught between the pin and the fuel pump and it can take up to 50 minutes to get the %$@#%% out of that position.  WIth magnets and mini-claws.  :lol: 

Edited by David Owen
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Well anothe expensive and embarrassing mistake.  I assumed that the spare rad that came with th car was a TR3 rad.  It isn't.  Unless I am missing something. It sits about 1 1/2 to 2" too high based on the top hose outlet lining up and it's a bit beefier which I failed to notice.

Any idea what it could be?

IMG_0057.JPG.1b136bc1abfdbfe88f01a2824626c99d.JPGIMG_0058.JPG.7f560d928d4376ca83a8cbeceb9274be.JPG994174780_IMG_00612.JPG.b184cb82e135e8246f86b6fbae746bcf.JPG

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If the filler extension fits under the front panel and hood ( for our north american cousins), you could have the top hose outlet stub re positioned lower down the header tank. I can`t think what else other than a TR2/3 would require the filler extension.

Ralph.

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7 hours ago, stuart said:

Probably TR4 rad then.

Stuart.

 

 

I think you are correct.  So I now have a fully reconditioned/recored TR4 rad.  I will do a trade if anyone has a TR3A rad in close to equivalent condition.

I was going to put in into my next 3A so I would prefer a trade.

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

 

 

I was going to put in into my next 3A so I would prefer a trade.

 

 

 

What? you`re buying another!

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