Lebro Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Yours is a 4 synchro David. The bottom most helical gear is 1st gear, it would not be there if it was a 3 synchro one. The next gear up which is straight cut is for reverse only, if it were a 3 synchro box then it would also have been for 1st gear. Bob. Edited January 31, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) David, If it's any help. I acquired my TR2 gearbox lid with the dipstick as an impulse buy from another TR-Register member for £25, about 10 years ago. Bob has reminded me that I took the two lids apart to create the lid that I currently have. I am in no way a gearbox expert, I wouldn't dream of trying to rebuild one, I leave that to experts, however I took a few photos of both the new lid and the one that was on my Triumph 2000 saloon box and then as Bob has identified set about making the new (to me) Tr2 lid a replica of the one on the Tr2000 box. I obviously managed not to break enough of the wedgelok screws not to have to order any more and shuffled around the operating forks until they would do the job of operating the OD switches and the gear clusters. I vaguely recall that it took me a weekend when my wife was away and I was allowed into the garage uninterrupted. So if you are unable to find the right lid for your box, it isn't a challenge to do what I did and the advantages of a dipstick (plus a hole in the gearbox tunnel) are obvious. Particularly if you don't have a hoist. Rgds Ian PS Having just seen Peter's post on gearbox identification I am reminded that the saloon box only had O/D operating on 3rd and 4th and therefore only needed one switch on the cover. Having had my O/D uprated to TR spec by ORS, I wanted it to operate on 2nd gear as well, and because the TR2 cover was drilled for two O/D switches I was able to achieve this by judicious swapping around of the various forks and buying an extra switch. Edited January 31, 2021 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Heres a picture of a saloon 4 synchro gearbox. The synchro rings are the brass rings with serrated edges that stand out quite clearly. Or at least they did in real life, not so clear on the photo. But basically there should be one each side of the hubs where the selector forks fit. If you don`t have one at the rear end ( bottom on your pic and mine) then you have a 3 synchro box. So I have a 3 synchro but it has a TR4 serial #. Is that possible? Am I wrong? Not knowing anything about TR4's I thought they were all 4 synchro's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 2 minutes ago, David Owen said: So I have a 3 synchro but it has a TR4 serial #. Is that possible? Am I wrong? Not knowing anything about TR4's I thought they were all 4 synchro's. I didn't see Bob's post and I thought that gear had to be right next to the fork hub. Now to hunt for Peter's gearbox ID post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Is this correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 1 minute ago, David Owen said: Is this correct? I think I have the #s in reverse based on gear size. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, David Owen said: Is this correct? Yes that is correct, the synchro rings are the brass colored ones just beyond your arrow heads, & there are two more, 1 below your text "Reverse", & 1 below your text "4th" (which you can just see) Bob. Edited January 31, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) 38 minutes ago, David Owen said: So I have a 3 synchro but it has a TR4 serial #. Is that possible? Am I wrong? Not knowing anything about TR4's I thought they were all 4 synchro's. NO you have a 4 synchro ! & all TR4's had them, some TR3B's but no TR2 / 3 / 3A's Bob. Edited January 31, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 33 minutes ago, Lebro said: NO you have a 4 synchro ! & all TR4's had them, some TR3B's but no TR2 / 3 / 3A's Bob. I got that. Should have deleted that. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 I think one of the more annoying things these days is car sites that don't remove sold vehicles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Any joy with replacing the wrong gearbox top ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 44 minutes ago, Lebro said: Any joy with replacing the wrong gearbox top ? Bob. Waiting for a response. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 On 2/1/2021 at 10:35 AM, Lebro said: Any joy with replacing the wrong gearbox top ? Bob. Sending the replacement free of charge. Excellent response. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Good news Will you be drilling the new one the same size as the last one did you mention the "extra hole" on the returned one I presume you informed him that his descriptions were wrong for both types ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted February 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 16 hours ago, Lebro said: Good news Will you be drilling the new one the same size as the last one did you mention the "extra hole" on the returned one I presume you informed him that his descriptions were wrong for both types ? Bob. Yes to explaining the situation and mislabelling. They called me to sort it out. They don't want the old one back in case they can't resell it because I altered it. The shipping would wipe out any net positive for them. They are excellent to deal with. For me, when someone screws up, it's how they respond that matters. You can't run any sort of business without messing up at some point. It's impossible. They definitely bought some loyalty/trust from me on this one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted February 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) On 1/31/2021 at 9:44 AM, Ian Vincent said: David, If it's any help. I acquired my TR2 gearbox lid with the dipstick as an impulse buy from another TR-Register member for £25, about 10 years ago. Bob has reminded me that I took the two lids apart to create the lid that I currently have. I am in no way a gearbox expert, I wouldn't dream of trying to rebuild one, I leave that to experts, however I took a few photos of both the new lid and the one that was on my Triumph 2000 saloon box and then as Bob has identified set about making the new (to me) Tr2 lid a replica of the one on the Tr2000 box. I obviously managed not to break enough of the wedgelok screws not to have to order any more and shuffled around the operating forks until they would do the job of operating the OD switches and the gear clusters. I vaguely recall that it took me a weekend when my wife was away and I was allowed into the garage uninterrupted. So if you are unable to find the right lid for your box, it isn't a challenge to do what I did and the advantages of a dipstick (plus a hole in the gearbox tunnel) are obvious. Particularly if you don't have a hoist. Rgds Ian PS Having just seen Peter's post on gearbox identification I am reminded that the saloon box only had O/D operating on 3rd and 4th and therefore only needed one switch on the cover. Having had my O/D uprated to TR spec by ORS, I wanted it to operate on 2nd gear as well, and because the TR2 cover was drilled for two O/D switches I was able to achieve this by judicious swapping around of the various forks and buying an extra switch. Thank Ian, The forks are toast on the original and I think one of the shafts. Knowing the seals are leaking badlly as well I will attempt to acquire the pieces over the next couple of years and rebuild it. I have other priorities at the moment. Now I know how Musk felt leading up to the first Space X launch. Edited February 3, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 I am trying to figure out where the oil pressure line runs before it gets to the firewall. The simplest route would be along the heater pipe, but I do not think that is the right way to do it. (I know the fuel line is incorrect.) I am replacing the oil pressure line and want to get it as close to right as possible. Any input would be welcome. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 It runs under the filter housing, over the snorkle pipe, & verticaly up just behind the fuel pump. There is a "P" clip securing it under the rear fuel pump fixing nut. It then goes up, & terminates, changing to the flexible section. Click on to enlarge Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 Mine drops down through a 90 degree curve and runs along level with where the sump joins the block and is held in place by p clips through two of the sump bolts before it connects to the flexible and turns through 90 degrees to run up the firewall. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 MIne is as it left the factory (AFAIK) Will take some photos today. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Lebro said: MIne is as it left the factory (AFAIK) Will take some photos today. Bob. So's mine I think Bob, although not much else is. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Reasonably good view Not mine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) Some pictures. Much the same as Ian's really, but no fixings along the sump line. Noticed on your photo David, your distributor is not in the normal position, but you would need to move the drive gear to a different mesh position on the camshaft to get it right (clockwise 1 tooth I would guess, & rotate the plug leads on the cap 90° clockwise.) then the vacuum pipe should be pretty much in line with the front of the car (subject to proper timing) Bob. Edited February 7, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 43 minutes ago, Lebro said: Some pictures. Much the same as Ian's really, but no fixings along the sump line. Noticed on your photo David, your distributor is not in the normal position, but you would need to move the drive gear to a different mesh position on the camshaft to get it right (clockwise 1 tooth I would guess, & rotate the plug leads on the cap 90° clockwise.) then the vacuum pipe should be pretty much in line with the front of the car (subject to proper timing) Bob. The oil pressure pipe on your car looks to be in tha same layour as ours, Bob. Now you mention the timing on David's distributor ... Firing order viewed from above is 1-3-4-2 Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 I tried to get some decent pics of mine but failed dismally. However here is one of the line emerging from under the oil filter before it connects with the flexible. As I said earlier, I'm pretty sure mine is original, I certainly didn't add the couple of P clips that are picked up by the sump set screws, they were on the line when I took it off the car when I rebuilt it. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.