David Owen Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 I would guess this plate is not supposed to be loose? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) DP Edited December 19, 2020 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 19, 2020 Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 Are you missing the aluminium packers? They look like Pac-Man They drop out when the bolts get loose. Peter W https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/chassis-subframes/chassis-frame-tr2-3a-1953-62.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) Thanks Peter. You just made me realize I don't have a process to follow when I am not sure about something. Which is ridiculous because I am a process maniac. So far this has just been seat of the pants garbage on my part. Cheers. Edited December 19, 2020 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 19, 2020 Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 There is often a combination of rubber washers and the alu spacers. The rubber disintegrates and the alu pieces fall out. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 2 hours ago, foster461 said: There is often a combination of rubber washers and the alu spacers. The rubber disintegrates and the alu pieces fall out. Stan Thanks Stan. It's all missing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6TTR3A Posted December 19, 2020 Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 David, The previous owner of your TR asked me about a possible build date without going through the formal inquiry. I built a module years ago that indicates TS 71769L was built on 25 March 1960. Not always 100% accurate, but pretty close. My 3A, TS72099L which the British Heritage Certificate indicates built on 29 March 1960, exactly agrees with my module. Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 58 minutes ago, 6TTR3A said: David, The previous owner of your TR asked me about a possible build date without going through the formal inquiry. I built a module years ago that indicates TS 71769L was built on 25 March 1960. Not always 100% accurate, but pretty close. My 3A, TS72099L which the British Heritage Certificate indicates built on 29 March 1960, exactly agrees with my module. Frank Thank you Frank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 13 hours ago, 6TTR3A said: David, The previous owner of your TR asked me about a possible build date without going through the formal inquiry. I built a module years ago that indicates TS 71769L was built on 25 March 1960. Not always 100% accurate, but pretty close. My 3A, TS72099L which the British Heritage Certificate indicates built on 29 March 1960, exactly agrees with my module. Frank Frank, mine TS81866 was built 14th December 1960, how does that fit with your system? Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 Is anyone else looking for an original cigarette lighter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 Another dumb question to those that have installed the Classic Car LED headlamps. Do I need to make the hole in the bucket larger to get the lead through or am I missing something? Also, I think the only way to get the grommet installed is to slice it lengthwise put it in place then use some gorilla glue to rejoin it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 Hi David. I assume you have the extension cables, & so will have the original three way H4 connector on the outside of the lamp bucket. So have I. What I did was reduce the diameter of the end of the extension cable which connects to the electronics box so that it can pass through the original bucket hole, then when connecting to the electronics box just push the ends together, & secure with tape instead of the screw on sleeve. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 3 minutes ago, Lebro said: Hi David. I assume you have the extension cables, & so will have the original three way H4 connector on the outside of the lamp bucket. So have I. What I did was reduce the diameter of the end of the extension cable which connects to the electronics box so that it can pass through the original bucket hole, then when connecting to the electronics box just push the ends together, & secure with tape instead of the screw on sleeve. Bob. Thanks Bob. I will file the threads of of them, although it looks like it will need a little more than that. Did you reuse the grommet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 I can't remember, either I did, or I replaced with a same size one. I reduce the dia of the plug using a lathe (if you know anyone who has one) as that made it easier. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 Just now, Lebro said: I can't remember, either I did, or I replaced with a same size one. I reduce the dia of the plug using a lathe (if you know anyone who has one) as that made it easier. Bob. Thank you. I have to pick up my (still unserviceable) gearbox top tomorrow so I will ask the shop if they can it for me. It would be much neater than me going at it with a file. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 For the installation of the headlight LED's from Classic car LEDs I decided to make the hole in the headlight bucket 2mm larger and find a larger grommet. That will leave the LED lead intact. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 (edited) I was wondering if I could get an opinion on whether this would be a good buy or not? Please and thank you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-OEM-TRIUMPH-TR3B-TR4A-GEARBOX-TOP-COVER-ASSEMBLY-W-O-OIL-DIPSTICK-G687/383315714832?fits=Model%3ATR4|Make%3ATriumph&hash=item593f65a310:g:eqUAAOSwrLZbWffN Edited January 2, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 What do you intend to do with it? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 Does your car have overdrive?. There was another on same page that had the switch holes already drilled. Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 17 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: What do you intend to do with it? Peter W I need a usable reverse shaft and fork and 3rd/4th shaft and fork. Or I need to replace the entire top. Not sure which direction to go at the moment. IO would just go and look at it but it doesn't look like we will be able to get into the US for a while. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 2 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Does your car have overdrive?. There was another on same page that had the switch holes already drilled. Ralph. No. It's a TR4 gearbox though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 I am facing the same set of problems if I can't get the tapered bolts out and the seals are hemorrhaging . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 12 hours ago, David Owen said: I am facing the same set of problems if I can't get the tapered bolts out and the seals are hemorrhaging . I don`t think I would bother for the small amount of oil thats likely to come out of the selector shaft seals. Think of it as automatic rustproofing as you drive. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 5 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I don`t think I would bother for the small amount of oil thats likely to come out of the selector shaft seals. Think of it as automatic rustproofing as you drive. Ralph What? Admit defeat!? You're probably right though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 I get a very small amount of leakage out of the back of my selector shafts, I did consider dismantling it to do Rogers fix, but having read about the taper screws snapping, which could cause a lot of effort to recover, I opted to leave well alone, as Ralph says it only helps to preserve the chassis further back ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.