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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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1 minute ago, Hamish said:


erm

 D A V I D 

A N Y O N E

 

No ?!?!?

to many and the wrong letters. 
 

is that a trick question ?

I've been working on it for ages 

you are pulling my leg aren’t you ?!

 

Ahem...I had absolutely nothing to do with this.  I have added a new acronym to my lexicon.  WFFP. 

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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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1 minute ago, David Owen said:

 

Ahem...I had absolutely nothing to do with this.  I have added a new acronym to my lexicon.  WFFP. 

He made me do it !!!

 

Honest. 
 

 

:ph34r:

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So while we are virtually grounding things does anyone have a picture of the interior of a Windtone horn properly wired that they could post.  I think I am correct but would like to confirm.  Negative ground but from everything I have read that shouldn't matter.

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I have the maintenance instructions for windtone horns. I’ll post them later today. 

Rgds Ian

PS just remembered, they have already been posted in the “Bonanza collection of articles” that is pinned at the head of the General Technical section. 

Edited by Ian Vincent
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18 hours ago, RobH said:

Polarity of supply is unimportant David.  This probably isn't the exact model but it might help:

http://www.vintagemg.com/articlepdfs/thorns1-2.pdf

 

My problem was  I had never seen a bullet connect directly to a device before so I had no idea what I was looking at until I saw this PDF.  So thanks again.

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On 1/17/2021 at 4:27 AM, Ian Vincent said:

I have the maintenance instructions for windtone horns. I’ll post them later today. 

Rgds Ian

PS just remembered, they have already been posted in the “Bonanza collection of articles” that is pinned at the head of the General Technical section. 

 

Thanks Iain.  All that knowledge would be useless without the wisdom of this forum.  Right now I need teachers, not text books. :)

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2 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

Thanks Iain.  All that knowledge would be useless without the wisdom of this forum.  Right now I need teachers, not text books. :)

Best way to learn, dive in at the deep end!:D

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15 hours ago, David Owen said:

Is there a way to repair these cracks on a steering wheel?

1681415299_SWCrack.png.8438550c3aa7d7c04b80b3cd082e4f49.png

Yes, "V" out the cracks and use a quality filler then rub down and repaint.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Yes, "V" out the cracks and use a quality filler then rub down and repaint.

Stuart.

Yes good idea, but surely filler isn't a good enough bonding agent on a steering wheel, and they may well crack again especially if you pound the steering wheel in frustration, plus naturally folks do tend to pull and push on a steering wheel as well as just turning it, something more flexible may be a better filler?

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13 minutes ago, R.M. said:

Yes good idea, but surely filler isn't a good enough bonding agent on a steering wheel, and they may well crack again especially if you pound the steering wheel in frustration, plus naturally folks do tend to pull and push on a steering wheel as well as just turning it, something more flexible may be a better filler?

I repaired mine about 25 yrs ago on my 4a with UpolD filler and its not cracked since. You can buy kits to do it though theyre usually quite expensive like this https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-master-steering-wheel-repair-kit-standard/

Stuart.

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17 hours ago, David Owen said:

Is there a way to repair these cracks on a steering wheel?

1681415299_SWCrack.png.8438550c3aa7d7c04b80b3cd082e4f49.png

Repair with epoxy paste.

https://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/162

Technique

https://www.eastwood.com/steering-wheel-restoration-steering-wheel-repair-tips-from-eastwood

Peter W

 

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1) Does anyone know the size of the screws to attach the glove box fascia to the door? I did check the Tech section, the original parts manual and various vendor websites and couldn't find anything.

GLVBOXLID.JPG.00a552753e12a03327ce242d787a08d3.JPG

 

2) In the Technical section both TR3A links took me to Teri Anne's site.  Is that correct?

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I don't know if it helps but if you want to work out the size of wood screws;  Divide the number of the screw by two and add on one and that is the diameter of the head in sixteenths of an inch.  Divide that by two and you have the diameter of the plain shank.  So a No.8 screw has a 5/16" diameter head and a 5/32" diameter shank.

If you measure the diameter of your countersink you can work out what head diameter you need and go from there.

Rgds Ian

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On 1/21/2021 at 5:36 AM, Ian Vincent said:

I don't know if it helps but if you want to work out the size of wood screws;  Divide the number of the screw by two and add on one and that is the diameter of the head in sixteenths of an inch.  Divide that by two and you have the diameter of the plain shank.  So a No.8 screw has a 5/16" diameter head and a 5/32" diameter shank.

If you measure the diameter of your countersink you can work out what head diameter you need and go from there.

Rgds Ian

 

Thank you Ian.

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On 1/20/2021 at 7:43 PM, David Owen said:

1) Does anyone know the size of the screws to attach the glove box fascia to the door? I did check the Tech section, the original parts manual and various vendor websites and couldn't find anything.

GLVBOXLID.JPG.00a552753e12a03327ce242d787a08d3.JPG

 

2) In the Technical section both TR3A links took me to Teri Anne's site.  Is that correct?

Give Macy’s a call ?  They do the wood and metal bits for the cubby box.

https://www.macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm

 

Peter W

F821B7A6-49DC-49A5-8C20-2B9423FE343C.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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11 hours ago, David Owen said:

A couple of questions on the Bonnet Lift Mechanism.

 

1) It looks to be painted in some pictures in BP's book and unpainted in others.  Which is correct?

2) Is there anywhere to source the cups that hold the spring in place?

I think that these would have been painted at the factory. Mine certainly was the same colour as the car and bare metal where attached and the paint had not been able to get in (same with the door hinges, when I removed them there was no paint or primer underneath).

Unless you can drop on a second hand unit I would think you would have to make the cups. Could probably find a core plug of the right diameter and drill a hole in the centre for the rod to go through which would do the job. This type of plug.image.thumb.png.0e7738758cae5f7a1e6d15e9352fe37e.png

Ralph

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