David Owen Posted January 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 A big ask but if anyone could check my order of tasks for flaws it would be much appreciated, please and thank you. The new wiring harness is in and wired to the tail lights, fuel tank and fuse area. I have decided I will clean up the rats nest next winter as it is a real challenge for me. Completing the dash wiring will be a good start as I am restoring it to normal, I hesitate to call it correct. Still waiting for a lot of parts. Including the gearbox top and the re-cored radiator. (I had 2 rads so I had them both done at the same time as the guy that is doing them is close to retirement) Anything asterisked is an anytime task. I have managed to get a fair amount done with all your help and really can't believe the difference in my knowledge level from June when I bought it until now. My father in law's comment yesterday when he dropped by and saw what I had done was "and to think we used to buy you power tools in the hope that you'd kill or damage yourself". All critique and any suggestions welcome. Drill hole for gearbox dipstick Trim gearbox cover cover for access to dipstick Make and install hatches for gearbox cover Grease U-Joint Paint gearbox cover Install refurbished gearbox top Install gearbox cover *Install dip switch bracket (Drill 7/8" hole and wire switch with spades) Recover capping Install capping Install Vent flap mechanism *Repaint Instrument cluster panel and original rear view mirror, install new glass. Reassemble Apron, headlights, support bar. Bonnet lift mecanism *Clean engine bay Recore radiators and mount fan - Barton Street in process. *Paint and seal fibreboard deflector Install new engine ground and secondary ground Replace Heater Pipes and hoses in engine bay Install new oil pressure pipe Install dashboard and instruments and wire Install steering wheel and new control head Coolant hoses replaced Install horns with relay Install radiator Install Deflector Install apron, mount LED ballasts Install battery Fluids TEST START Install bonnet Install heat and sound proofing Install rearview mirror Install jute Install carpets Install cockpit panels Install new seat rails Install seatbelts Install seats Fit new door pulls Reassemble doors and install Install hood sticks Install windshield. Replace vacuum advance Get carbs tuned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 Should all be done by March By LED ballast do you mean the driver box for LED headlamps ? no ballast is required for other lamps. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 5 hours ago, Lebro said: Should all be done by March By LED ballast do you mean the driver box for LED headlamps ? no ballast is required for other lamps. Bob. Yes I do mean the driver box. Ballast seemed a better option than doohickey since I didn't know the correct term. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 In the time it took you to write that list you could have had some of the jobs done. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 4 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: In the time it took you to write that list you could have had some of the jobs done. Ralph If I had the parts!!! Anyway i needed a new plan so I could try to anticipate any additional requirements beforehand. I had no idea what I would need (or break) when I started. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 By the way, there will be Pay-Per-View access to my TEST START. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R.M. Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 I think that is called social funding these days, get others to pay for your, tools, parts, workshop, holiday, etc, does anyone out there like to pay for my restoration as i am broke. Thought not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 40 minutes ago, R.M. said: I think that is called social funding these days, get others to pay for your, tools, parts, workshop, holiday, etc, does anyone out there like to pay for my restoration as i am broke. Thought not TR Register members have paid the price already. Having to read through my posts! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 28, 2021 Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 On 1/24/2021 at 5:41 PM, David Owen said: A big ask but if anyone could check my order of tasks for flaws it would be much appreciated, please and thank you. The new wiring harness is in and wired to the tail lights, fuel tank and fuse area. I have decided I will clean up the rats nest next winter as it is a real challenge for me. Completing the dash wiring will be a good start as I am restoring it to normal, I hesitate to call it correct. Still waiting for a lot of parts. Including the gearbox top and the re-cored radiator. (I had 2 rads so I had them both done at the same time as the guy that is doing them is close to retirement) Anything asterisked is an anytime task. I have managed to get a fair amount done with all your help and really can't believe the difference in my knowledge level from June when I bought it until now. My father in law's comment yesterday when he dropped by and saw what I had done was "and to think we used to buy you power tools in the hope that you'd kill or damage yourself". All critique and any suggestions welcome. Drill hole for gearbox dipstick Trim gearbox cover cover for access to dipstick Make and install hatches for gearbox cover Grease U-Joint Paint gearbox cover Install refurbished gearbox top Install gearbox cover *Install dip switch bracket (Drill 7/8" hole and wire switch with spades) Recover capping Install capping Install Vent flap mechanism *Repaint Instrument cluster panel and original rear view mirror, install new glass. Reassemble Apron, headlights, support bar. Bonnet lift mecanism *Clean engine bay Recore radiators and mount fan - Barton Street in process. *Paint and seal fibreboard deflector Install new engine ground and secondary ground Replace Heater Pipes and hoses in engine bay Install new oil pressure pipe Install dashboard and instruments and wire Install steering wheel and new control head Coolant hoses replaced Install horns with relay Install radiator Install Deflector Install apron, mount LED ballasts Install battery Fluids TEST START Install bonnet Install heat and sound proofing Install rearview mirror Install jute Install carpets Install cockpit panels Install new seat rails Install seatbelts Install seats Fit new door pulls Reassemble doors and install Install hood sticks Install windshield. Replace vacuum advance Get carbs tuned. Location for your dip switch if you are still searching for an image. It comes from this advert. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/perfection-achieved-1956-triumph-tr3/amp Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 Thanks Peter. I am hoping to get that completed this weekend so very timely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 Well another lesson learned. Gearbox # is CT12348. Early TR4 #. So I purchased a TR3B/TR4 Gearbox top Different forks. More wasted time while I sort this out. Original has the arrow. Well lots of other things to do although I was hoping to wrap this up this weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) f Edited January 30, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 30, 2021 Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) The bottom gearbox cover on your photo is a TR2 / 3 non synchro in 1st gear one. you could probably change over the reverse fork (or all of them) to get it right. (will hold off dipstick machining till you get it sorted). Being an early box cover I would have expected the dipstick hole to be there already, but maybe they deleted it near the end of production of that box type. This from TR 2 workshop manual: Note position of locking screw on reverse selector fork. Bob. Edited January 30, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Lebro said: The bottom gearbox cover on your photo is a TR2 / 3 non synchro in 1st gear one. you could probably change over the reverse fork (or all of them) to get it right. (will hold off dipstick machining till you get it sorted). Being an early box cover I would have expected the dipstick hole to be there already, but maybe they deleted it near the end of production of that box type. This from TR 2 workshop manual: Note position of locking screw on reverse selector fork. Bob. Thanks Bob...you just made my day. It wasn't me that made the mistake. The one I just purchased was listed as a TR3A/4 gearbox top but is obviously not. I still should have had a closer look at the forks though. Edited January 30, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 30, 2021 Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 A TR3A gearbox is not the same as a TR4 one, the changeover from 3 synchro to 4 synchro boxes happened with the release of the TR4, although some TR3B's were also fitted with them. What is your plan now ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 I believe this is the one I need. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 13 minutes ago, Lebro said: A TR3A gearbox is not the same as a TR4 one, the changeover from 3 synchro to 4 synchro boxes happened with the release of the TR4, although some TR3B's were also fitted with them. What is your plan now ? Bob. I will return the one I have and order the right one immediately. I may have to return it with the dipstick since I already drilled it.. Which, if it turns out to be my fault, would only be fair. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 30, 2021 Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 I have just looked at the ebay post for the cover you bought, it definately states it is for a TR4, but it definately is not ! I would not worry about the dip stick hole, as that type usually had them anyway. I don't really want to make you a dipstick for you to give away ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 27 minutes ago, Lebro said: I have just looked at the ebay post for the cover you bought, it definately states it is for a TR4, but it definately is not ! I would not worry about the dip stick hole, as that type usually had them anyway. I don't really want to make you a dipstick for you to give away ! Bob. Thank you. I will talk to them Monday first thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 30, 2021 Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 On 1/4/2021 at 10:44 PM, Ian Vincent said: I have a TR2 gearbox lid Bob and it is compatible with my 2000 saloon gearbox. That's how I have a dipstick. Rgds Ian Ian. Having checked on the difference (see above posts) I don't see how you could have a TR2 top on a saloon box unless someone has changed the reverse selector fork as a minimum. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 30, 2021 Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, David Owen said: I believe this is the one I need. I agree the photo is for a TR4 one, but description says TR2 - TR3A is it the same seller as before ? maybe this one, also wrongly described https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USED-OEM-TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3A-GEARBOX-TOP-COVER-ASSEMBLY-W-O-OIL-DIPSTICK-A055/233370229077?hash=item3655f31955:g:NkIAAOSwEWtZuWpr Same seller, he has them the wrong way round in all cases. Bob. Edited January 30, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 30, 2021 Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 1 hour ago, Lebro said: Ian. Having checked on the difference (see above posts) I don't see how you could have a TR2 top on a saloon box unless someone has changed the reverse selector fork as a minimum. Bob. You are probably right Bob. It’s quite possible I dismantled the cover from my saloon box along with the TR2 cover and made one that fitted and worked. Put it this way, the actual lid is pretty much identical it’s the innards that are different so it just becomes a case of swapping things over. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) When I look at this picture what do I look for to identify 3 or 4 gear synchromesh? Also, is the reverse fork THE indentifier of which gearbox top you are looking at? I realize the other two forks are different as well, Edited January 31, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Heres a picture of a saloon 4 synchro gearbox. The synchro rings are the brass rings with serrated edges that stand out quite clearly. Or at least they did in real life, not so clear on the photo. But basically there should be one each side of the hubs where the selector forks fit. If you don`t have one at the rear end ( bottom on your pic and mine) then you have a 3 synchro box. Edited January 31, 2021 by Ralph Whitaker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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