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Rodbr

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Rodbr last won the day on April 16

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About Rodbr

  • Birthday 05/08/1953

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  • Location
    West of Scotland
  • Cars Owned:
    All things TR, Rallying, power boats

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  1. Hi Yves, Warm the car and get it to temperature. drive around for say half an hour. Park up and remove the rocker cover. check carefully on the side opposite side the carbs and exhaust. There are core plugs which are threaded into the head and then machined flush. I have seen dribbles of water at this point. This seems to be caused by corrosion of dissimilar metals i.e the core plug gets eaten away and eventually becomes holed. This may be your issue and could perhaps be cured with something like Barrs leak stop or similar if not then you need to get hold of a plug stick. remove rotten one screw it out with a chisel and then screw in replacement using Wellseal. Then cut off the excess. if possible it can then be ground flush, factory would machine it off but not absolutely necessary. They come in a stick of five and are threaded called head core plug covered extensively on this link Worth a check anyway. Rod.
  2. How old is your water pump? Perhaps cavitation caused by vanes in inside water pump. Rod
  3. I have ordered a replacement, so I ill check the internal dimensions before I ft it Rod
  4. Thanks Peter, I will do some internal comparison measurements when the replacement arrives.
  5. Hi Cameron, Only seems to be one side screen car on the entry list but a lot of more modern stuff. I know that Moffat had to restrict the entry conditions as the list was getting more and more modern. The Border rally is in it's last year due to lack of volanteers for marshalls. There is a case for many more cut off dated shows as the term classic changes over time. I.e Morris marina, Allegros and the like. Still one mans classic is another mans plug! Rod
  6. Hmmmm but not entries available!!!!!
  7. I think I need to have a replacement or service the slave cylinder on my 3a. I did not buy the one fitted and just used the one supplied with the car. My question is what diameter should the car have as a 1959 one. 7/8 or 1". Yes, I can measure the one fitted but it may not be correct. I also want to have both repair kit and a replacement available when I start. What is the original part number? There has been a lot of talk recently about quality of spare parts and their degradation on a short space of time. Is there a possible issue with the system and modern fluids and being hydroscopic. from the pics I have seen there seems to be evidence of pitting within the cylinder walls and piston. I know that mixing fluids can cause breakdown of rubber components and I use Silcon fluid. Yep fully aware of the downsides!!!!!!! Rod
  8. Have Michelin XAS on my wires but for the winter i fitted these to my Knock-on Tinilites and they are a revelation. Like them a lot and the sidewall look while not a classic look is not too bad. As a tyre, great do not walk the walk on the tread the way XAS seem to. I like them on my 3A. Rod
  9. I know who it is (Past Parts) but baulk at over £100 to re-sleeve something that should work out of the box. Hi peter, I get what you are saying but perhaps honing an original has merit.
  10. Given that the reputation of repro brake cylinders and master cylinders is not good. Does the team think it would be worth using a set of small honing stones to sort the internal bore rather than use as is? Answers on a postcard please. Rod reat
  11. A real candidate for a battery master switch and use it!!!!!!! You may now have a major problem tracing any other affected wiring. If the insulation is cooked on any other wires that ran alongside you now have a significant fire risk and you may not get away with it next time. TIP, If doing any electrical works that you are not super sure of, disconnect the battery when not near the car! Disconnect it in any case with ancient wiring? You know it makes sense!
  12. Hi Hamish, What is the status of the tank? has it been coated internally with sealer. It sounds like there are flakes of something moving over the outlet mid corner with fuel as it slops around . I would be tempted to get hold of an endoscope and have a long look at the internal surface for flakes or sludge floating around. Rgds Rod
  13. I have dismantled an original I had in the stores and found that on the underside there is a hex sided copper washer and the other is a washer with a rubber insert in the middle. It was very tight but worth splitting it anyway. I intend to use Hylomar Red as a sealant which will be ok to use as it is enert and oil, antifreeze, etc safe. The new one if it has the same set up can only have either leaked or migrate due to the tube seal failing as there is no pressure at this point. I will refurbish the original and swap over once repainted and decaled.
  14. If the wiring got hot then I would really think the solenoid is dead or stuck solide and the pullin current is high before the holding switch breaks contact and load. Hold in current is low load. They are not cheap no matter where you go and they are all much of a muchness. Rod
  15. Hi Tony, If it worked before and you have not done anything drastic I would suggest that your solenoid may be the issue. The sealing from road water does not help the operation of the solenoid. What happens is the cut off switch inside the solenoid sticks and the solenoid burns out. Not obvious from outside but a likely issue.. Do you here a click when switching the overdrive in? Do you get a click from the relay? What is the earth wire from solenoid? The is only one wire into it and it earths through the body not a separate earth.
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