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Rodbr last won the day on April 16

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About Rodbr

  • Birthday 05/08/1953

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  • Location
    West of Scotland
  • Cars Owned:
    All things TR, Rallying, power boats

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  1. Roger, FWIW It must depend on the shape and attitude of the seal to the piston how much lubrication you get from the DOT 4. It has to act a scraper of the bore surface causing a degree of friction? The grease does stick like sh1t to a blanket but if going down your route I would bleed, block the pedal overnight and then run for a week or so to give things a time to bed in. It is easy peasy if you remove the caliper and get the syringe nozzle under the seal and then run it round whilst injecting the grease. Be advised it takes some time to draw the grease into the syringe but worth the effort. The other thing is that the surface of the piston is much better protected with the grease from corrosion unless you have stainless or ceramic pistons. IMHO cant see a down side to my way but each to his own, as it is belt braces solution to infrequently used brakes compared to daily driver. Rod
  2. Hi Roger, I would be tempted to suggest that you fit the piston as usual with brake fluid of your choice and bleed as normal. I would coat the seal with grease and work in in all round the seal finally injecting greaseso the piston always moves in a sticky gease envelope. Rod
  3. Hi Roger, I am sure that you probably do this but if not try this! I fill a small clear plastic syringe with Castrol Red Rubber grease and lift the piston seal and inject under the seal to the piston in three places.I then worked the rubber grease round to ensure that the grease is all round the piston. Clean any excess with a dry cloth and fit and forget. Never had any of the issues described after doing this. The grease coats the piston on the "dry" side and does not drag on seal. If you have podgy fingers fit a small tube to the syringe outlet and carefully ease it under the seal. Rod.
  4. Hi John, Don't be fooled by the lack of oil around the pulley seal system as the air flow and fan make the oil go anywhere it likes. If you are having the apron off to get access to remove the radiator. Don't ask about torquing up the crankshaft bolt and the nightmares of the shims no shims debate. i wish yoyu luck sorting it out but get in touch if you want the definitive seal. Rod
  5. John, To be brutally honest The amount of work required to get to the timing chest is not something you want to do often and so it is a no brainer to renew the seal. It is a simple knock out and press in with a suitable size socket. Viton is a more durable material but the cost for the seal is approx twice the price of the original type. It really depends on what you value your time or garage time to completely re-do the the process completely removing rad, apron etc just to replace a seal. This is one case of if it ain't broke, do fix it but with something better!!!!!!!!!!! Give me an accurate measurement of the crank pulley shaft that the seal bears on and I can then advise, I wont tell you what to buy without this as I don't want flack for advising you wrongly. I have no doubt that it will be the same as mine BUT!!!! Rod
  6. Been here not that long ago and the following are necessary: Check the Seal on the crank shaft pulley for pitting corrosion which tears the seal apart. Look at installing a double lip seal in Viton material that won't heat up and leak. Let me know if you want the details of the seal to use. If you do not do this right you can look forward to doing it again in short order. It is a paIN BELIEVE ME. Mine turned out to be the original leather seal material which would you believe it started leaking after 60 years. Not good enough! Rod
  7. My tiler guy is coming tonight to measure up and provide facts and figures for discussion with Loss adjuster. He has installed the type of tiles we want and is also an underfloor heating guy. He lives in the village and knows the area and construction in the area. It seems to be that you must install heat barrier on the whole floor not just where heating elements are. The supplier has advised that if we supply floor area and coverage by suites and units etc they can work out the best solution. I,m not looking to heat the room just take the chill off. They take the view "why heat under suites and units" only heat where you need it. Underfloor heating has moved leaps and bounds in tech knowhow these days and they will provide a life warranty what ever that is.
  8. Hi keith/Hamish, Thanks for you comments. We have already decided on replacing carpets with tiles instead of carpets and although my wife doesn't like underfloor heating I think it necessary if nothing else for our two black labs! I have just done a quick measurement and the hall carpet is roughly 15m long and 1.5 - 2.0 m wide the wide dogleg. and was in a single piece. At £30/m2 that is costly to replace and to what benefit. Sitting room roughly the same area. I think if settle they will win out as minimum size is 4 metres wide carpet so a lot of waste. I will see what the Loss adjuster says and decide then if I need to involve a Loss assessor. Given that they want to minimise the loss to insurers they will wriggle I'm sure. They may say that with dryers run the kitchen units have dried out but I feel that scummy dirty water absorbed into the units could give us issues down the line. I will now fight this as I don't want to live with that. The insurance Company appointed Rainbow(hopefully no pun intended) facilities International restoration services who came lifted carpets, removed skirting boards, condemned various items on the spots all fully inventoried and copy issued. They set the Dryer fans (6 x 24") and two industrial size de-humidifiers. We are safe at least and thats the most important thing. Weirdly enough raining heavy now and wife and I exchanging worried looks at each other as we sit in the Garden shed. Not sure if that will pass anytime soon. I have thought s about flood protection measures which I will discuss with loss adjuster. We have a three seater and two seater leather suite which cost £3700 that was in and still is the sitting room. The guys said it was OK as the frame kept it clear so the electrical circuits amd motors are OK. Will need a treatment with hidelife I expect. Rod
  9. Hi Keith and Chris 59, Thanks for your thoughts and information. The problems we have are minimal compared to some but nonetheless I am appalled by the way it is being handled. I even had a girl call to arrange for an assessor to call to measure up for carpets. I could hardly hear her for the fans and dehumidifiers running, she was either deaf or just plain stupid. I tried to explain that potentially I could not give permission as we had been asked to sign a health and safety warning about live cables and hoses on the floor and would need the same to avoid a claim against me for injury, reasonable I thought, NOOOO! all I got was "yes but when can we come?" The loss adjuster is due on Monday fully ten days after the event, not once have we been asked about how we are coping, can we make food, or have you anywhere to sit and relax yet people are describing events which I consider to be almost own goals i.e washing machine leaks and they are put up in hotels or have five star caravans installed.! I am looking forward to sitting the loss adjuster in our kitchen for just ten minutes so he can see how we can.t even cook a hot meal or make a coffee without the coffee blowing off the spoon before reaching the cup. We can either sit on the bed or go to the garden shed to eat or talk in peace but more than ten minutes we start coughing and our eyes itch badly from the dust and grit flying around. Health concerns are my biggest fear and I am paranoid about anything causing an eye infection after surgury earlier in the year to alliviate degenerative sight loss in one eye. My wife does not want to be seen to appear to gain betterment from the status but doesn't realise that if we don't sort things now then a year from now when the kitchen units fall apart and appliances fail, we are S.O.O.L. I am more concerned that they will cover the boiler which has been assessed by plumber as uneconomical to repair as the insulation and seals are compromised and may fail anytime. On top of that the flooding of the condensate drain caused a diesel scum on flood water and a smell through the house. Does the team think it unreasonable to propose the following Tiles over carpets and re- finish concrete due to cracking on the existing skin UPVC skirting and door frames over painted wood. (skirting removed and taken by cleanup crew) Outside boiler above flood level over internal one in kitchen. Perhaps offer a contribution. Replace the kitchen as the unit ends have started to swell. Washing machine, separate fan oven and hob, American fridge freezer were all under water but not flooded. ( they have already written off industrial vax and vacuum which were less flooded in a kitchen cupboard) In essence I am not seeking betterment but want to be at least back where we were. My wife's pet hate is that people routinely claim for "accidental" damage so as to mitigate premiums so claim paint spill on carpet and furniture, or leaking washing machine. Outside, All drains were replaced after a flood some twelve years ago, and sewage outlet was fitted with an NRV which worked. From my video one the day it appears that all drains on road lead to my door and road drain has a 6" inlet and no exit that I can, see go figure that!!!!!!!!!!!! We would not have had an issue but for the road drain overflowing and flooding over front step into garden and thence into the house. I go from despair to anger to outright fury. Local Council roads dept have not arrived despite requests did not bring sands bags till after the event was subsiding. Lawyers in Carlisle can't advise due to differences in Scots Law. Finding a lawyer when you need one is a nightmare. For those of you with a boiler in an outbuilding check your insurance carefully as one local in another village close by had his boiler flooded but is not covered fro flood damage in to "garden" but would have been if it had burst. PLEASE CHECK THIS as it is a costly issue. I have been instructed to keep blowers and dehumidifiers running 24/7 till they return the noise is horrendous. This does concern me as the house is old with lime morter which I think should not be dried out fully lest it crumbles. I have further been instructed to do nothing to start clean up and rebuild till Loss adjuster has been on site. I will keep you updated as we work through this. Rod
  10. My problem was the road drain overflowed and flooded over the steps to the garden and round the gable end of the house, the outflow from my drainage system then backed up against the flow. The level rose and the condensate drain from the boiler took the kerosine into the kitchen before I got my 12000l/hr pump running we had up to five inches in the kitchen. My wife was filling buckets but the fumes from the heating oil and scum on the surface made us sick. Approx 12 years ago long before we bought the house a fortune was spent and NRV fitted to the sewage outlet which WORKED!!!! and all my drains were renewed and are totally clean. This was taken into a pipe into drum like road sump. This filled up very quick as it seems to have nowhere to go. In my view given we are the lowest house in our part of the main road all the water from pub carpark and the road side further up filled the drain very quick the water was visibly rising as I got the pump running the road drain is the issue. So I need legal advice how to proceed against a tax payer funded body. Flood barriers over the door and air vents would not have helped as it never came in that way. Seems to be related to the boiler pipework and old vent for fire place. The main issue is the capilliary action of the water into the fabric of the house but my tiled kitchen floor is dry underneath and the kitchen is drying out but all the units have already started to swell. The new carpet underlay allowed the water to creep all through the sitting room and hallway. We need it dried out first but I am amazed how quickly water soaked into oak furniture. This only happened on Saturday and I had planned to go the the Biggar show on the Sunday. looking at all possibilities with some FOCUS. Rod
  11. Many thanks for your kind thoughts. I must say that the guys appointed by insurers to clear wet and damaged items and installed dehumidifiers and dryers were first class, with compassion and efficiency. They have authority to write off items and supplied me an inventory of all items taken. My next door neighbour has just had a similar issue due to a leaking washing machine and had the same loss adjusters as we have and she told me that they were brilliant and worked with them at every turn so a little less concerned. They were offered on site accommodation but as they worked they elected to go into rented accommodation for the 8-10 weeks it took. We can at least be on site so that will be my preferred choice. Getting not to stress but it ain't easy. Main concern is health so onwards and upwards and can only think of those worse off even than we are in the village. We got hit hard and in Gretna the Fire service was called 92 times in the first 3 hours. Thanks again Rod
  12. The rain at the weekend has reeked havoc in many places but unfortunately my house is the only one in my immediate area of the street to flood the house. The road drain filled and all rain water feeds to this drain it then overflowed and has flooded my garden and then my house. Kitchen gone, sitting room carpets skirting walls affected and stripped out, hall same. 4 dehumidifiers 6 massive fans set to run for next two to three weeks and then massive renovations, replacements. After one night sleeping in the house choking with the antibacterial fluid fumes. I need any advice about how I can work with the loss adjuster as I wont go into a hotel which is what we will need. I intend to suggest they supply a camper van so I can be on site to prevent vandals, thefts etc while the work is done. My wife is in bits, she is 71 and i'm 66 and we don't need this heartbroken as we only moved in recently (well two and half years ago) as part of our downsizing and forever home. We have dutifully paid for home insurance all our lives but I don't trust loss adjusters as their job is to screw claims and minimise loss to insurers. Reaching out to anyone who has experienced this trauma with advice how to cope and get what is rig Any help and advice particularly legal. As a consulation garage and TR saved but not even possible to use it till we get sorted. HO hum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Rod
  13. In this instance I suggest that you do remove the tunnel so you can visibly check for crispy wiring. I suspect you have the same issue as I had earlier this year. Change the solenoid and check the operation with a meter that you do in fact have the reduction in load from pullin load to holding coil. You need access to the fitting to be sure you have the rubber cap fitted fully through the hole in the mounting. Fill this with grease!!!!! I would also suggest that you form an additional seal round the top where the wire enters the solenoid. This is where your problems will start as water will enter the solenoid through the wire hole, coat the bullet connector with mastic to seal the connection. Think of it this way in that if you can see a potential for water to ingress then it will get in. Check operation and adjustment fully before refitting a chopped tunnel cover as you will not want to be doing this two years down the line. From a working overdrive to burnt out solenoid to not is about two miles before the top plastic switch holder melts and this is not fixable. T this time you also blow a fuse taking out other utilities. I cut my tunnel before the gear lever hole in two pieces fitted the front one and made a joddled flange with Rivnut fixings and covered the joint with Gorrilla tape, better than "duct tape" Take baby steps if unsure, remove seats completely (or risk nicks from the tunnels corners and carpets fully or you will get oils from the tunnel, the3n remove the tunnel fully. Check wiring, Check interrupt switches. Replace solenoid. Check loads with a meter. Don't follow thie above and you risk the whole job a second or even third time. Rod
  14. Try a set of these till you make your decision with a tap washer isolator between bumper and clip makes cleaning bumper and plate a doddle. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/362600965868 Rod
  15. FWIW I found the same thing when fitting new spinners to my hubs. The thread must be scrupulously clean on both spinner and hub, the old grease build up to a real crust. soak in solvent overnight, then apply very thin coating of vaseline or similar and tighten the spinner with leather hammer and check again after a few miles. As said make sure that all components are correctly sided/handed. Beware of paint on hub nut shamfers and ensure metal to metal contact of nut to adapter. Torque correctly and not over tight. check nuts after a few miles!!!! Rod
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