Jump to content

Rodbr

Registered User
  • Content Count

    2,534
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Rodbr

  • Birthday 05/08/1953

Profile Information

  • Location
    West of Scotland
  • Cars Owned:
    All things TR, Rallying, power boats

Recent Profile Visitors

1,915 profile views
  1. Full blown lefty sentiments I see "nothing to see here" apart from mandated election monitors refused entry and access. Counting offices shuttered off from access. Sheriffs refusing to enforce court rulings on access. 130,000 postal ballots came in at 4 am after counting stopped for the night all for Bidon!!!!!!!!!! Postal ballots in dumpsters all over the place. Video evidence of vote counters filling in ballots. Only states where Democrats have Governors and supreme court judges are there major issues and these being swing states with history of voter
  2. Hi Conrad, If you look a little closer in the pic beyond the pump you will see the T piece for the pipe work. This is machined out of a solid billet of brass and would not be the cheapest part to manufacture but if you give an Engineer a task it will be the most beautiful thing............................... before the suits start to budget cut. Early days of production produced some interesting solutions and most were hand done. Rgds Rod
  3. Hi Conrad, I think if you do a search for early Tudor washer pump it does look close with perhaps different knob but I would say period after market but Factory ?who knows sorry! Rod
  4. Hi Bob, As my car seems to have virtually all the accessories fitted in essence below main dial speedo to the left of it. also the stirrup pump screen wash pump location.
  5. Hi Tom, the reference appears to be the option of two speed wipers according to price list of £13 5 shillings when overdrive option was £47 10 shillings!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  6. Hi Conrad, IMHO that may be early but not what was on the TR2 Accessories list dated 1/8/54 The original that I have fitted on my January 1954 TR2 is approximately 6" long and has y piece intake and discharge pipes.
  7. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/59/tenax long ones and cut down. FWIW 1 I would try slightly longer thread to check it does not foul the glass. Use longest thread that will fit as the originals have very little to catch on, would be also be worth just trying a fresh threaded one in any case, threads can wear. 2 Use JB Weld in preference to Araldite. 3 Chamfer the hole and fill the hole with JB Weld and screw the Tenax into that. Drilling right through should always be a last resort IMHO Rod
  8. Hi gents, just an update on the screen situation. I removed the new screen after much soul searching. I dug out the old screen warts and all. It cleaned up well but the internal film is starting to de-laminate but worse is the fact the the replacement is a different shape, narrower by 1/8th to 1/4" in the middle. This means that it will never fit and give sufficient overlap the top and bottom of the frame for an adequate seal. So start all over again and try to fit the frame over the old screen which may not be as robust as the repro one given it's age. Rgds Rod
  9. Hi Bob, They were NOS ones I picked picked at an Autojumble. I have two spare that are available to anyone who wants one. Rgds Rod
  10. I have completed some original housings with modern electronics so that they work with LED lights. They click as per the original and are a direct replacement for the old non functioning Lucas units that do not work with LED. They look the part and are no different to the original. Rod
  11. To go back to the subject mine is called the BOAT. The Break Open Another Thousand seemed to fit perfectly at one time but don't tell my wife!!!!!!!!!
  12. Having just fitted a "new" screem" in the last couple of weeks the rubber has disintegrated already, I was going to change anyway but I want to use a rubber that will at least last till fitted to the car;. Who supplies the best screen rubber and is the Revington one the best sold by the metre!!!!!!!!!! and 3.5 metres needed so you pay for scrap as well nice!!!!!!!!!!!!! Rod
  13. I was referring to a high output Dynamo as used in the Commer type period Ice cream vans. I have 35amp output and can still use the original fitting, the company also provided a matching regulator. I have never had an issue with lack of power, charging , rattling loose bodged together brackets. All these I have seen with alternator conversions. Go to London &Essex auto electrics Ltd and ask about uprated dynamo. https://londonessexautoelectrics.co.uk/
  14. Hi Oliver, It depends on how original you want your car! Personally I went with upgraded dynamo to alternator spec but not going to the very expensive route. Alternator unit housed inside a dynamo body with an appropriately rated regulator. The advantages of this it fits without any modifications to pulleys or bracket or loom. I have more than enough capacity for modern quartz halogen lighting, LEDlights, heater,wipers etc. Change over to an alternator means potential mounting faliure throwing the belt off causing the water pump to stop. Works for me, but I like the e
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.