Jump to content

roger murray-evans

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


roger murray-evans last won the day on January 7

roger murray-evans had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About roger murray-evans

Recent Profile Visitors

778 profile views
  1. Tempus fugit! I've nailed all the missing parts for my TR2 project except for the Lucas L471 rear light gaskets. Before I cobble up my own, is it likely the SDF will be producing these in the near future? Cheers Roger M-E
  2. John, I believe I have the unequivocal answer in the ST 1954 Workshop Manual. Body section, Page 10, there are 3 excellent photos which clearly show the elbow and side cappings over the top of the quarter trim panel, and the side cappings also overlap the rear capping where they meet in the the corners. Your question had been nagging at me also. For what it's worth (a lot!) the factory spare parts manual drawing Plate AP in the body and fittings section also show the same layout except it has a butt joint in the corner where the side and rear cappings meet. Cheers Roger M-E
  3. A bit of pedantry here Stuart, but weren't Frogeyes on 2 X H1 SUs? Roger M-E
  4. Doesn't the seller pay an auction premium as well? Negotiable, like most things automotive, but usually 5-10percent!. Makes the total changing hands quite a bit more than the hammer price. MVC575 a bargain in comparison. Roger M-E
  5. Anyone have any experience of getting something like this made to pattern? Unfortunately neither the ST or the 'not great' repro efforts are a close fit, although they do look very similar.I have the old screen in 2 halves, and it does have the compound curvature that the steel/glassfibre factory screens have. If they could make them for a tiny product run such as the ally h/tops 60 odd years ago, one would hope the expertise exists? Be nice to have a 'stiff' one instead of those dreadful floppy jobs sold by retail chums! Roger M-E
  6. I too, made an impulse internet purchase of this small tome.1994 edition I think, and cost £2.56 inc. postage!Had a quick read thru, still has the 2 TR photos. Shall wrap and give to my youngest boy, whose doing an MA in History, for Xmas. Sorted! Roger M-E
  7. By extraordinary coincidence, I've spent the day farting around with the piping for my Ice Blue TR2. Mine is early early as opposed to early, so although I'm not absolutely sure what the correct core should be, the piping should be stitched up round (assuming 1/4") rexine/vinyl covered string or hollow rubber core.The later type, and I don't know from what commission number, early (not early early) TR2s, had T section body coloured plastic. FWIW, my TR2 ST parts book gives p/n 700947 and 4 unnamed colours to select. The TR3 supplement shows 'beading with tabs', which has to be the usual s/s beading.? I had previously painted some solid plastic piping from CompleatAutomobilist, using a plastic primer and then a couple of coats of top coat cellulose.Result was paint pinging off in places.Presumably because the primer is flexible and cellulose ain't.So, today I've tried super cleaning and abraiding a spare piece of solid piping and cleaning again with panel wipe, followed by 'Plasticote' primer and then Ice Blue cellulose.I have also tried a rexine/pvc stitched piping with a solid plastic core which I've given 3 coats of Ice Blue to which I had added a very small capful of 2K paint plasticiser. Both are drying overnight, so I don't know how they'll turn out.I suspect that the longer one leaves fitting the piping, with all the flexing and pulling involved, the greater the chance of early failure. I'm rather interested as to how the treatment of cellulose with 2K plasticiser pans out as it may provide a solution. Future experiments in the event of failure, will be to get some 2K Ice Blue made up to match my cellulose, add the full dose of plasticiser which is actually formulated for 2K paint and go from there.I suspect this is going to be the answer, as this is what the modern trade uses for plastic trim/bumpers etc. Roger M-E
  8. Charlie, You can be and are forgiven! Unfortunately, errors do find their way into the best of publications, usually because the author has accepted a 'known' truth and put it into print. I wouldn't have argued the point either had I not got a Phase 1 Vanguard (Late 1950), still with it's original engine and having the dipstick at the forward position and no rear boss for alternative dipstick position. .I also have a spare Vanguard engine which has the dipstick at the rear but also has the undrilled boss at the front. My attached photos show (1) My Ph1 Vanguard 1950 Front d/stick no rear alternative boss (2) 1958 TR3 Block Front d/stick and alternative rear boss and (3) my spare Vanguard engine (year unresearched) Rear dipstick and alternative front boss. It's a can of worms! Roger M-E
  9. In the interests of historical accuracy, SOME Vanguards had the rear mounted dipsticks and SOME have them at the front as per TRs. Roger M-E
  10. You little tinker, John ! Roger M-E
  11. Rod, I'm very much with you on the 'do your homework' theme, when it comes to anything. As I see it, these days the main problem, esp. with interior trim is to match the colours of the various differing materials, on top of guessing the correct shade of the particular trim one's car was originally done in, what with the availibility of original cars and a guarantee that they represent 'original' if one should find one. Without getting too precious about it I'm leaning towards doing all upholstery and trim in leather.If one does happen to go the TR specialist route then you have to hope(!) that their reputation/s will provide instant gratification, but at a price. I'm in the process of trying to nail down the correct colour trim for my car.I had a search done by the Standard Motor Co (of which I'm a member) and was given Geranium.Since then, I've been advised by a trustworthy authority that it was Grey, so I have a bit more checking to do! If it was Grey, then I'm thinking that possibly includes the use of 'metric', a few fragments of which came with car along with a great deal of very stretchy scarlet vinyl.I'm really not overly bothered whether it originally was Geranium or Grey, but in the first case, as much as I'm drawn to a red hue there's already quite a few Ice Blue TR2s around with red trim but I'm also going to have almost insurmountable problems sourcing metric cloth to go with the leather facings if that's how my car was finished.So possibly all leather in grey. Fortunately I've given myself until end Feb before making a final decision, as I've still to flat and polish the paint (by hand) and refit everything possible.Wiring could be tricky without the trimmed dash in place. Oh for a magic wand! Roger M-E
  12. Thank you Gentlemen, Apart from your responses, others have also quoted similar leather/leatherette combinations, so I have to believe that 'leather' means 'some leather but a lot of leatherette'! I had read in one of the many publications that ' the early TR2s were all leather interiors' which could be read as all the early TR2s were all leather interiors or that the later leatherette substitutions for the various facings had not yet become standardised. It does seem that Skinners trim do produce the correct combinations if I wish to go in that direction. Next problem will be where to source 'Ice Blue' weather equipment! Roger M-E
  13. As my project progresses, I'm giving thought to trimming the beast. My car is numbered TS70L, and it is my understanding that 'very early' TR2s were only fitted with leather upholstery. Can anyone tell me if that means ALL leather in totality or was there any vinyl used, seat backs, draught excluder etc etc?At this stage it's easier, and cheaper, to get the details right first time if possible. Many thanks Roger M-E
  14. Bob, That was my understanding too.Before I posted the above I had a quick read of my factory WSM which gives .010/.012 on P22 (To set valve clearances) The reference to high speed .013", which was news to me, is P24 (last para of 12. (k) and it's literally an afterthought.Also .015" to set the timing in the absence of timing marks, so a pretty good spread of feelers required . Roger M-E
  15. I've always been a bit mystified by the rocker cover decals that have .013" valve clearance on the early cars. Surely it was .010" inlet .012" exhaust for normal operational use and .013" only for 'high speed' use? Roger M-E
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.