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roger murray-evans

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Everything posted by roger murray-evans

  1. I've experienced similar problems over the years on different cars.Everything is super and then the pedal disappears or goes spongy especially after a period of inactivity. It has usually been an air leak at the one of the various banjos or the copper sealing washers for the banjos,at various points around the braking system.They let in a miniscule amount of air as opposed to obviously leaking fluid,over varying periods of time.As Roger has asked, if you are getting air bubbles from any of the wheel cylinders (other than the air already present) you may wish to tweak the banjo bolt if fi
  2. I quote from 'Original Triumph TR' by Bill Piggott P117 Hard-top kit "Both types usually had perspex rear windows, but some glass ones exist" By both types Bill means both glassfibre and steel hardtops. Roger M-E
  3. There you go then. Another myth busted!! Roger M-E
  4. Ralph, I might be barking up the wrong tree here, but weren't the engine numbers generally higher than the comm numbers, due to engines supplies being made available to other users such as Morgan, Swallow ect? Roger M-E
  5. I've found many instances of 'incorrect' fitting of coils, esp. to pos earth cars where the coil is marked cb/sw and presumably the maker of said coils is oblivious to the fact that not all cars are neg.earth. In my personal experience it hasn't made the slightest discernible difference which way around it's wired.I do though, now I've picked up a bit of knowledge , try and and connect up the 'correct' way. Roger M-E
  6. Brian, I would have thought to 'breath' there has to be an 'out' as well as an 'in'. I have a what I presume is a later, it having the screws for cam bearings, Vanguard engine, also without the tube type breather, but with a thick 'washer' pressed into the block breather hole. It has an about 3/8" hole in the centre, which presumably provides the breathing. I've not seen/heard of this feature previously. Roger M-E
  7. Rod, back in 1988/1990 the internet and particularly this forum were either in their infancy or not extant.However, it was pretty well known back then what constituted 'right' from 'not right', but for some 'restorers' it just wasn't that important given the values of TRs 30 odd years ago. I had a workmate who invested his £8k City bonus in a TR3A around 1988, and it was pretty difficult to find a better or more expensive car at the time.This car had been restored by The Northern TR Centre, who had a very good reputation for doing a 'proper' job. It was almost ce
  8. Rod, It's already been on Ebay a couple of times this month.Got to £23k not reached reserve. Cheers Roger M-E
  9. No Richard, it's a while ago and I accepted the perceived wisdom of replacing them, along with the earlier front hubs, which also had a reputation for sudden failure. As far as I can ascertain, they also may vary a little in the backspacing between the 2 versions. Cheers Roger M-E
  10. Rather disappointing in that a lot of the 'wrongness' is unnecessary.Even the manufacture date of August 1953 is incorrect, as the included Heritage cert shows Dec 1953 which is the right date..As has been already mentioned and despite the seller's blurb of it being restored to it's original spec, I noted the following: wrong colour paintwork, interior to TR3 spec, chromed not painted hinges front and rear, entire car has 'lift a dots' instead of Tenax fasteners (not incl windscreen) and even the LADs on the scuttle are in the wrong place.TR3 passenger chrome grab handle (n
  11. Grant, Most definitely have your old rad rebuilt. I'm in West Malling.If you need someone to recore your radiator, Regal Rads in East Farleigh will do the job.Ring Steve on 07507230274.He's old school.Last time I was in with my TR2 rad, he was reassembling a radiator for a Centurian tank.He's also REASONABLE! Good luck Roger M-E
  12. Dan, This subject has been dealt with before.As far as I remember (being in the same boat TR2 wise) I ascertained that the wheels to look for, to replace what were considered to be compromised in strength terms, were later items that have the letter 'H' stamped on the knave plate.The earlier items don't have this. If you do a search on this forum for 'H stamped' you should come up with all the gen you need to make a decision. I got a half dozen 'H' rims, from Alec Pringle shortly before his demise, to replace my 1953 wheels. Good luck Roger M-
  13. Rod, Yours would originally have been fitted with the 'long' tonneaux, with the Tenax pegs in those holes between the dashboard alloy capping and the demister vents.It's too easy to fit the wrong tonneaux by drilling a few holes in the capping and fitting the later, more generally available, shorter version. I've not worked out how to easily fit the long cover onto the Tenax pegs especially as blessed with the factory aeroscreens and brackets. There's an 'early' TR2 on Ebay right now with exactly the wrong cover AND lift-a-dots, along with quite a few o
  14. Tim, My Autosport of 9/9/1955 has just arrived (£5.99). Can't find the above article anywhere.Could you oblige? Cheers Roger M-E
  15. My email from The BOC say 75 is max number of competitors. Roger Murray-Evans
  16. Is there a wrong lane anymore? Without a doubt, no such thing exists on the M25 for any vehicle, no such thing exists for any motorcycle on ANY motorway, and it only takes one individual sitting rigidly in the middle lane/s, (because they vaguely think it's the correct place to be, or too terrified to get back in the LH lane with all those nasty trucks) to make the whole question of lane discipline something of a joke. If I'm sitting in lane 1 at 70 (say!) and I'm catching a vehicle in lane 3 doing 65 on a 4 lane carriageway, is it realistic to cross 6 lane
  17. My personal experience is that there are at least 3 different tanks.I purchased a 'TR2' tank from Alicool which was much too short in the 'sump' by about 1 1/4", which would have meant packing the underside of the back of the tank to get it to sit properly.Having just forked out a decent sum of money I rather preferred to have the correct tank.They were sceptical when I told them it was wrong (the old, old story of ' we never had any problems before, and we've sold loads'), so I packed up my old and very knackered tank and the Alicool item and pedalled up to Wednesbury
  18. Keith, It occurs to me that you might well wish to acquire the Revington one piece overrider fitments before you weld the whole caboodle together.I count my self extremely lucky when i got my body/chassis back from the 'man' that when i trial fitted the overrider brackets to the car, having fitted all the body/chassis mounting pads, the Revington fitment lined the o/rider bracket up perfectly with the rear chassis mounting hole. You have the chance to get that corrected before you commit with your aftermarket panels. Good luck Roger M-E
  19. The inner tube is welded to the front and rear sections of the box that is made up of the rear apron and the apron closing panel, and is flush with both outer surfaces and does not protrude in either direction nor butt up against the chassis.It was actually part of the rear apron panel (p/n 900477) This fixed tube then accommodates a distance tube of smaller diameter ( P/N 602001) which, with the rear overrider bolt passes through the o/r bracket,rear apron and it's closing panel , and clamps up to the chassis.Personally, I use the Revington 1 piece spacers/bolt
  20. I did have a rather uncomfortable period of about 3/4 days a couple of years ago, when I used PayPal to buy some rather expensive go faster goodies for a 60's US Ford.Having pressed the PAY button for some $3000, something went rather wrong, and my seller hadn't received the money, but my PP account (and B/card) showed it had gone thru.I wasn't overly comforted by PayPal, who (a) couldn't explain what had happened (b) but said it had happened before, and it usually sorted itself out at the week/month end reconciliation! Fortunately, 3/4 days later the money d
  21. And, for good order's sake, the clips and rubber seals were not fitted to the earlier TR2s, which is why neither the clips (p/n 552901) nor the seals (p/n 603257) are in the TR2 parts book and, rather oddly, not in the TR3 supplement either. My first TR2 (TS3615) didn't have but I retro fitted them.I'm thinking they were introduced into production early Jan 1955, but at what comm.number i don't have to hand. I'm rather afraid in the interest of originality of my latest TR2, my left leg and the right of any passenger unlucky enough to be on board when it's raining
  22. John, As far as I can make out from the Parts book, there is 1 part number each for the following seat runners and parts: seat adjusting slide X 2 603158 (1 for each seat) slotted slide X 4 603157 (floor runners, 2 each side) seat plain slide X 2 603159 (1 for each seat). This would tend to rule out the mounting runners being handed. I know I originally thought I was missing one of the seat runner adjuster slides, until everyone I came across was the same. Stanpart money saving exercise! Cheers Roger M-E
  23. Rod, Looking at the TR3 supplement which came with my TR2 parts book, I see that , again, the LH and RH seat assemblies (less cushion) are numbered differently but the cushions and other components are numbered the same for either side. The only conclusion I can arrive at is: (1) the actual way the squab covers are fitted to the seat frames differs from side to side, perhaps the orientation of the piping on the sides of the seats to avoid rolling over the piping when getting in or out perhaps, but not the way the covers are made?
  24. Rod, My 1st ediition parts book has TRIMMED SEAT ASSEMBLY-RH 552299 -LH 552298 but Frame assembly x 2 900427 Cover, cushion X 2 552866 Cover, squab X 2 552867 Cushion assy trimmed X2
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