David Owen

Thanks Hamish. Just saw this. I will have to have it repaired.

Really good progress today. Thanks for all the help. I will have to make a tour of the UK and hand out bottles of scotch to everyone as a thank you.

I have a couple of extra senders I can practice on. This should be fun.

Thank you

Thanks Bob. The non TR gauge was sort of working and there is a voltage stabilizer on that circuit. I don't suppose you fix gauges? Thanks Rob. Hence the lights will turn on without the ignition on. "Face palm emoticon"

I have some questions about the ignition switch. On the schematic it appears that the connections from the starter switch, the feed to the fuse box and the ignition warning lamp all connect to the same pole? Is this correct? It appears that the power to the light switch is the only connection on the other pole. Is this also correct? Bob mentioned I should pull the feed for the voltmeter from the ignition switch. Which pole should I use, assuming the above is correct? How should I ground the volt meter?

Going with what works but will test the spare for "experience". Thank you.

This one came as a spare part. Is there a way to tell if it is working? And is it the right one for a late 3A?

Don't see any. I would have searched that.

Let me guess....a fuel gauge from another car.

Thank you both.

Excellent. Thanks.

A little bit of an oddity but my instrument cluster has the panel switch and the wiper switch reversed based on all the pictures I have seen. The panel switch is between the warning/indicator bulbs with the wiper switch located above. The holes cut out to receive the switches are dictating where each goes. What am I doing wrong?

Hmm I will have to look again because I didn't see those markings. Thanks Rob. This is fun learning this!

Schematic questions: 1) Is it assumed you are looking at the front or rear of a gauge, specifically the fuel gauge? 2) Does it matter which connection goes to which terminal on the fuel gauge?