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  2. I have a special tool but a the inside of a large nut can be filed out square and tapped onto the square allowing a standard spanner to be used.
  3. Thanks so much for the replies everyone. Peter - those are instructions even I can follow! I've removed the carpet and there is a small hole in the left hand side of the transmission tunnel with a grommet which I've removed and I can see the filler plug (1). It's not lined up but I can still get to it underneath the car now I actually know where it is. It however, stuck tight and isn't budging. There is some oil left in the gearbox which is encouraging - a little less with what poured out when I took the drain plug out to check! It was late last night when I did this but I'll pull ba
  4. Maybe lost a wheel balance weight ? Mick Richards
  5. Have you hit a pot-hole that has bent a wheel ?
  6. The same question has been asked before: If Ralph's suggestion of pre-twist still leaves them close, you can use plastic spiral wrap to protect the pipe from rubbing
  7. Hi Chris, welcome to the forum It is often said - recheck the last work you did. get the alignment looked at and look at the TREs Check tyres for bulges, foreign objects and pressures. Roger
  8. Should also have stated it is cam and lever steering
  9. I have 1960 TR3A and have recently replaced inner and out track rod ends on both sides. Got wheels aligned at local tyre garage and got them to check homework. After a recent road trip of about 500 miles where car performed flawlessly it has started shuddering badly, windscreen vibrates etc from 15 mph to about 40 mph. All nuts etc are still tight. Any thoughts on where this might be generated from? thanks Chris
  10. Today
  11. Have a great day Rod Bob
  12. Which electronic ignition unit were you using ? From your description (no joy when points back in) The Electronic ignition probably was not the problem. did you check for spark at the dizzy / plugs ? Bob
  13. Well, managed to breakdown last night. First time ever I couldn't repair at the roadside. Looks like the electronic ignition is shot, no spark. It could be more and will need to investigate. Re-fitted points and condenser at the road side and had a spark at the points but it still wouldn't fire. Carbs were full of petrol. Will replace the ignition with Lumenition and change the coil again just in case although that was sparking.
  14. And use the biggest washer under the bolt head that will fit.
  15. Front and rear bumper bars not aligned.....Boot likewise.
  16. The FREE Foundation was set up by astronaut Dr Edgar Mitchell. It ran a survey of UFO experiencers and identified commonalities with NDEs; near-death experiences. This 2018 article summarises the survey's findings. It points to UFOs not being anything extraterrestrial but rather an unusual form of conciousness. https://www.scientificexploration.org/docs/32/jse_32_2_Hernandez.pdf?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR1ZJQLBpwiJ7PV3nscZVLX6TTAw4Su5qvuLDBOrcGwiuFvUQYBNxtRTE6Y_aem_ARvAecG_mrJzuAWbC2ZZ2j-g8VGcIWBHVn5fV_VTQKyKimvnSBh8CS37xfkaTyXohIPNz15bYuyfYXaqyVJOiaLj
  17. Thanks Ralph that all makes sense now a picture would be helpful.
  18. My TR3 stank the garage out with petrol fumes which were entirely from the breather exiting under the car. I crushed the end of the pipe and left the smallest of holes which improved matters. I then noticed that my filler cap has a vent hole anyway, so have now fully closed off the pipe under the car. Next time I take the tank out I am removing the vent pipe completely. Maybe modern fuel is more volatile than the old stuff, or perhaps the original vent pipes had a restriction in them, Ralph
  19. The flexy pipes are very close, I had this problem when re building my car. Because they fit in the top of the caliper you have to persuade them to clear by inducing a bit of twist in the pipe before tightening the nut at the chassis bracket. As for the solid brake pipe that goes across the caliper, I routed mine around the front edge near the disc and not over the top of the caliper casting. I can send you a picture later when I get home from work if it will help. Ralph
  20. The metal work was finished last summer but work and house stuff got it the way and that’s how it stayed until April this year. The radiator was removed to access the steering rack so I could rebuild it to remove play in the pinion bearings. I replaced the standard radiator with a new aluminium unit whilst the front was off. The next stage was of paint prep, filling, sanding, more filler, more sanding an so it went on… hence I only have these 2 pictures! Most of the filler is fairly skinny, only the last application of the fine fill
  21. In answer to the rear diff mounts being normally modified, yes usually when a car is restored, the mounts would be boxed in for extra strength, easier when the body is off the chassis. Gareth
  22. Here’s a little video of my Pomegranate tree and some birdie songs. Cheers Dan IMG_4392.mov
  23. Podone Hi Andy I'm near Marlow Bucks
  24. Yesterday
  25. Looks like I won't be seeing it restored then ! Avi J. Katz Hi Everyone, I just bought the Dovè from Mark and very excited for it to arrive in Dubai. Tony Quinn and Bob Le Brocq, please send me a Facebook message. I would love to talk you both and learn more about the history of the car. Cheers! Bob
  26. We had a good time at the Elsass (F) with a Hotel at Molsheim (Bugatti) Sunday morning, before the return tour we had a visit a a classic car meeting at Molsheim and there I found this! Some details are lovely different on this car from those I've seen at the internet.
  27. If you make sure the flange is level especially around the bolt holes you will only need a thin smear. A lot of sumps bolts get over tightened to try stop leaks and end up distorted its worth some time with a hammer and dolly to sort them and check with a flat edge.
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