Brake Upgrades

[jr2]

Toyota 43512-22100 

Aftermarket clone versions of this rotor cost: USD 25.00 each

The inner hole of the Toyota rotors needs to be machined to 3.125" (this required removal of 0.130 inches diameter, 0.065 radius).

The bolt holes in the Toyota rotors are the same as the TR rotor and do not need modifying.

 

I had a machinist modify the rotor and they bolt on correctly.  I just have to install the spacer kit and verify.

[jr2]

And my guess is that this firm uses these rotors.

Fosseway Performance Vented Brake upgrade

 

[CK's TR6]

When I got my aluminum front hubs from Richard Good (Goodparts), I had him machine the hubs to accept the toyota vented rotors as is.  

[jr2]

1 hour ago, CK's TR6 said:

When I got my aluminum front hubs from Richard Good (Goodparts), I had him machine the hubs to accept the toyota vented rotors as is.  

That's a good idea but I chose to go with the TT3170 setup and that's not an option.

[CK's TR6]

I think it is the same either way. When I had access to a metal lathe I turned a couple pair of the rotors. When I lost that access, I had Richard turn a set of his hubs  to accept the rotors. That way I change the rotors at any time.  I think your hubs are very similar to mine and could be turned prior to install. I have the bearing spacer and HD axle set up also. Six of one way, half dozen the other.

https://www.goodparts.com/product/hub-tr3-6-front-alloy-with-bearings-and-1-2-20-wheel-studs/

[DRD]

On 12/15/2022 at 7:50 PM, Hamish said:

Depends which “upgrade” you want. 
Upgraded race type pads will need warming up but won’t fade with continuous use.

the beauty of the 1144’s upgrade is they work very well from cold thus great for the road.

 

What is the correct part number for these?

The Mintex catalogue says MGB525 but I've seen MGB633 quoted on here.

Cheers Darren

[Kevo_6]

24 minutes ago, DRD said:

What is the correct part number for these?

The Mintex catalogue says MGB525 but I've seen MGB633 quoted on here.

Cheers Darren

Hi Darren, the Mintex MGB525(C) are the classic range (standard) which I fitted earlier this year for our 1600 mile tour of France in the extreme hit of this summer and I was very happy with them. I would assume the MGB633 are the 1144s possibly. Drop them an email on sales@mintexclassic.com they were very good to communicate with.

[DRD]

37 minutes ago, Kevo_6 said:

Hi Darren, the Mintex MGB525(C) are the classic range (standard) which I fitted earlier this year for our 1600 mile tour of France in the extreme hit of this summer and I was very happy with them. I would assume the MGB633 are the 1144s possibly. Drop them an email on sales@mintexclassic.com they were very good to communicate with.

Thanks Kev - I think your right, the MGB633 ones are the M1144 pads. 

[Hamish]

1 hour ago, DRD said:

What is the correct part number for these?

The Mintex catalogue says MGB525 but I've seen MGB633 quoted on here.

Cheers Darren

I think TRE sell these pads for earlier and later cars worth a chat

https://trenterprises.com

[Tim D.]

Just bear in mind that the holes in the pads may need opening up a little so that the caliper pins fit. Easy job to do with a reamer, drill or even a round file.

tim

[John L]

There is an article in Kas-Kastners notes about putting larger slave cylinders in the rear brakes, this can help I'm sure but need to know what happens if too much is applied, perhaps needs a balance valve to control, but may be worth investigating.  Once the fronts have locked you've lost it.

John

[Andy Moltu]

You can easily fit .75" bore rear cylinders rather then the standard .70" bore. Search GWC1112.

Minor increase in rear braking but not so much as to unbalance and thus need a valve.

As for the 1144 pads - much better than standard search for MGB633 1144. You will get the ones with the smaller holes for the pins but it takes no time at all to enlarge with a drill. Far cheaper than seeking out the less common large holed pads. (Not sure you can get them with 1144 material)

[matt george]

As mentioned above by a good few people, Mintex 1144s are a fabulous pad for road use, noticeable improvement in stopping performance. Have them on my TR6 and also 2500 saloon. The latter is obviously quite a heavy car, yet mine will stop on it's nose with the 1144s fitted. Used them for 10 years or so, wouldn't like to use anything else now.

Matt

[Z320]

Hi,

I compared cheap standard pads and the expensive 1144 pads the same day, driving my standard test loop.

I expected no basic difference.

But indeed the 1144 pads are better, in my opinion not the way to let me make air jumps, but indeed better and worth to spend the money.

Ciao, Marco 

[Nigel Triumph]

Ferodo FER167 pads are also good, recommended by Tim Hunt some while ago on the forum. I've recently fitted a set to my 2.5 litre GT6 to replace a worn set of Mintex 1144 pads.

These Ferodo pads perform like the 1144s, but don't squeal. The downside is that the brake dust from Ferodo seems harder to clean off alloy wheels.

Nigel

[RogerH]

Hi Nigel,

I also took on the Ferodo  FER167 pads after Tim's post.  They do indeed work well.

They actually have feel to them and if you press hard they stop.

I have overcome the brake dust by not bothering to clean them 

 

Roger

[ctc77965o]

On 12/16/2022 at 12:52 AM, Phil H 4 said:

would be good if the stopping distance could be safely reduced when situations like this arise.

If the braking system is in good condition, the only way to reduce emergency stopping distance is improving tyre friction.

http://www.insideracingtechnology.com/tirebkexerpt1.htm

Wider tyre changes the shape of the contact patch,  but the contact area remains  ~same, so the adhesive element of friction wont change much.....

The article says Ftotal = Fad(hesive) + Fdef(formation) + Fwear

So, a tyre with good viscoelastic properties (deteriorates with age) and the right pressure is your best chance to reduce stopping distance.

[CK's TR6]

On my second set of Potenza RE-71R's. XKR runs on Pilot Sport 4S's. Either one provides good grip. Consider the ADVAN A052. I think either of these three would do the trick.

[Tim D.]

9 hours ago, ctc77965o said:

If the braking system is in good condition, the only way to reduce emergency stopping distance is improving tyre friction.

http://www.insideracingtechnology.com/tirebkexerpt1.htm

Wider tyre changes the shape of the contact patch,  but the contact area remains  ~same, so the adhesive element of friction wont change much.....

The article says Ftotal = Fad(hesive) + Fdef(formation) + Fwear

So, a tyre with good viscoelastic properties (deteriorates with age) and the right pressure is your best chance to reduce stopping distance.

awesome link. Thanks. Fits with my view that tyres are kinda overlooked when we talk about braking. Amazing the number of people driving old hard tyres with new shiny brakes. 

[RobH]

 

The other thing to bear in mind is that no matter how sticky the tyres are, dust, loose grit and mud on the road will, inevitably, reduce the braking effect significantly.  A definite factor on corners on narrow country roads, where wide vehicles eat into the verge and spread the result across the surface. 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by RobH

[Motorsport Mickey]

"So, a tyre with good viscoelastic properties (deteriorates with age) and the right pressure is your best chance to reduce stopping distance."

Yes but the correct pressure cannot be defined by a tyre manufacturer saying "32 lbs front". They have no way of knowing the cars the tyres will eventually be fitted to, their ranges cover dozens of different car manufacturers selling maybe 3 or 4 models of car each range. Their "recommendation" is just that, and it would be a brave manufacturer who suggested that their "suggestion" obtained the best all around grip and handling for any specific model. That's down to the driver to try by adjustment and find which tyre pressure works best with normal driving conditions on their car.

Mick Richards 

 

 

 

 

[Z320]

https://youtu.be/CyH5xOcsXxs

 

A recommendation from my mate Jochem, can’t find the thread again

Edited December 23, 2022 by Z320

[KiwiTR6]

+1 for Mintex 1144 pads.

[Z320]

I like this guy!

And I have to clarify my previous laud for the Mintex pads:

the Mintex 1144 pads don’t brake my TR better than standard pads,

with both I was able to block the wheels and bring the tires over their limits.

For the Mintex 1144 I „only“ need less force / effort- and this  makes it easier to brake

and gives me an impression of a better braking.

Edited December 25, 2022 by Z320

[Andy Moltu]

The significant advantage of the 1144 pads (over standard) is the resistance to face after repeated heavy braking. Once pads get bore their operating window they become less effective. The flip side for many race pads is that they may not brake too well when cold and need to get warmed up before they function well. 

Again vented disc don’t improve braking performance from cold, but help to shed heat better keeping the temps down.