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CK's TR6

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  1. The car has used EDIS for the past 16 years and it has been pretty fool proof. I am keeping the EDIS. This was to facilitate changing over to sequential from batch injection. As for COP, I would think supporting the coils would be problematic, leading to coils with small leads to each plug. Other than the ability to tailor timing to an individual cylinder, I don’t think COP would give much gain over the EDIS system.
  2. This is really only for the extremely small subset of EFI folks going to sequential injection. I took a distributor, cut down the bell, turned the upper part cylindrical, 3D printed a sensor housing for fit n function, fabricated sensor housing, cut down the plate that the weights ride on to the proper duration, timed it all to the engine. Sensor is a powered Hall sensor from DIY auto tune.
  3. If you mean an AFR map that is one thing, a fueling map could be construed as the VE map as that is the basis for the fueling computations. On my EFI, you set up a AFR map, then the software adjusts the VE basis to achieve the desired AFR. For idle, I picked AFRs around 14.5-15.0, for WOT I picked 12.0 AFR as best power is at 12.5 but I am batch fired for now so that requires a richer mix, as for mid throttle (mid Manifold Absolute Pressures) I picked around 13.0 and then at low MAP values I go up to 15.0-16.0 (this is the overrun condition). Now, from what I was told, I can linearly correct
  4. As to heating of the air in the plenum, install a Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) in the back of the plenum. They are cheap and all they are is a thermistor. Easy to devise simple circuit to measure. Then you can compare ambient temperature with the actual temperature inside the plenum. My manifold is a bit different, it does have a heat shield, but I live in a high temperature environment. I have seen IAT’s 40-50f over ambient when stationary, cooling the IAT down took 50-60 mph for 5 minutes with, most importantly, 1/2 throttle or more. My air filter takes air from in front of/alongside the rad
  5. My fuse block on my mount plate plate powers the fuel pump, dual O2 boxes, radio, radio amp, a power outlet, ECU, injector banks, coil pack and EDIS6. There is main power relay that is pulled in by the power that normally goes to the OEM coil. The main power comes in from a extra wire direct from the alternator then into the battery then to the fuse block. There is an emergency switch to kill the main relay. There is some extra wire hanging around that will get fed into the engine compartment for the cam sensor. On the engine, it’s pretty clean install. Wires are all direct from ECU to injecto
  6. My ECU, an associated fuse block, relays, sensor ground bus, and ground bus are mounted on an aluminum sheet that fits upside down in the footwell, I ran four bolts through from the top and secured them with nylocs. Then the plate mounts to those with another set of nylocs. The wiring harness loops around then goes into the engine bay. If I need to, I drop the plate and have enough slack to put the plate on the floor.
  7. I can't speak about the PI setup as I'm in the US. However, I have a EFI car (MS3) and had fueling issues. The first configuration was a HP pump on a swirl pot then to a HP filter, all in the trunk. Fuel line went around into T shirt area, to fuel rail, then pressure regulator, then a return back through t shirt area along the OEM carb fuel line routing. Fuel starvation in corners. Rerouted return into swirl pot. Overflow through swirl pot vent. Designed my own fuel tank, grafted swirl pot onto it and that worked. Except, pumping fuel forward through t shirt then back through it again, the fue
  8. In Roger Williams book on the TR250/6, he notes that a common failure point of the trailing arm is the shock mount cup. He even shows a photo. Let's imagine the shock cup fails whilst your are driving. With a lever shock it hangs mostly out of the way. With the Spax, the shock slowly extends to full extension then the cup pendulums about. If it happens to catch the inside rim of your aftermarket aluminum wheels it just might dig in and rotate up and jamb itself between the rim and the extension of the frame for the lever arm bump stop. Thereby bringing your rear wheel to a very sudden complete
  9. Gareth, the earlier posting shows the outcome from that wheel (maple one). Here is close up of the Koa one. I have several of these center pieces as I had to buy a half sheet of 6061 anyways for the water jetting.
  10. I used a aluminum disc with wood rings laminated onto the front and back. Here is one of the ones I made prior to gluing. I’ll probably make another out of Baltic birch ply sometime this summer.
  11. Do they do it? Yes. Which is why 20 years ago I put Toyota vented four pots on the front. That cured the fade issue. I live in AZ, there is a lot of elevation change in short distances. And a lot of the state highways are separated dual carriage ways. But not controlled like limited access freeways. And the stated limit is 55 or 65 but people routinely drive at least 10 over. The limited access freeways are posted 75 outside of town. So it wouldn’t be unusual to see people trucking along at 85-90.
  12. Bling yes, driving style and your local roads also. Around where I live, there are lots of 6% plus grades with traffic going 70 mph plus, and lots of turns. You enter a steep downhill going 75 plus, good brakes going into the pretty tight corner are comforting. And when some yahoo pulls out into your lane going 55, right in front of you, good non fading brakes are useful.
  13. I have Toyota vented four pots at the front, GoodParts discs at the rear, GoodParts dual masters and carbon Kevlar pads all the way around. Potenza RE-71R tires complete the mix. The car stops very well.
  14. I have had a Megasquirt 2 since 2011, and was using a Megajolt prior to that since 2005 (EDIS ignition). As a USA car, it was great to not use a dizzy and even better to lose the ZS carbs. If you have a completely stock motor and those thing are in excellent condition. Keep em. If the engine isn’t stock, EFI with ignition control is better. If you live where the elevation changes a lot and quickly too, EFI is nice (my MS2 has dual baro sense). So, very situationally dependent. 15 years of electronics, and never had any issue with any of the electronics.
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