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CK's TR6

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  1. In Roger Williams book on the TR250/6, he notes that a common failure point of the trailing arm is the shock mount cup. He even shows a photo. Let's imagine the shock cup fails whilst your are driving. With a lever shock it hangs mostly out of the way. With the Spax, the shock slowly extends to full extension then the cup pendulums about. If it happens to catch the inside rim of your aftermarket aluminum wheels it just might dig in and rotate up and jamb itself between the rim and the extension of the frame for the lever arm bump stop. Thereby bringing your rear wheel to a very sudden complete stop. This is most exciting when you are doing 65 mph. It will break free after you slam into the concrete barrier, but maybe dig in again. Ask me how I know.........
  2. Gareth, the earlier posting shows the outcome from that wheel (maple one). Here is close up of the Koa one. I have several of these center pieces as I had to buy a half sheet of 6061 anyways for the water jetting.
  3. I used a aluminum disc with wood rings laminated onto the front and back. Here is one of the ones I made prior to gluing. I’ll probably make another out of Baltic birch ply sometime this summer.
  4. Do they do it? Yes. Which is why 20 years ago I put Toyota vented four pots on the front. That cured the fade issue. I live in AZ, there is a lot of elevation change in short distances. And a lot of the state highways are separated dual carriage ways. But not controlled like limited access freeways. And the stated limit is 55 or 65 but people routinely drive at least 10 over. The limited access freeways are posted 75 outside of town. So it wouldn’t be unusual to see people trucking along at 85-90.
  5. Bling yes, driving style and your local roads also. Around where I live, there are lots of 6% plus grades with traffic going 70 mph plus, and lots of turns. You enter a steep downhill going 75 plus, good brakes going into the pretty tight corner are comforting. And when some yahoo pulls out into your lane going 55, right in front of you, good non fading brakes are useful.
  6. I have Toyota vented four pots at the front, GoodParts discs at the rear, GoodParts dual masters and carbon Kevlar pads all the way around. Potenza RE-71R tires complete the mix. The car stops very well.
  7. I have had a Megasquirt 2 since 2011, and was using a Megajolt prior to that since 2005 (EDIS ignition). As a USA car, it was great to not use a dizzy and even better to lose the ZS carbs. If you have a completely stock motor and those thing are in excellent condition. Keep em. If the engine isn’t stock, EFI with ignition control is better. If you live where the elevation changes a lot and quickly too, EFI is nice (my MS2 has dual baro sense). So, very situationally dependent. 15 years of electronics, and never had any issue with any of the electronics.
  8. Yes those were the pressures prior to tear down. Interestingly, the oil temp stayed at around 215. I normally drive 75-85 for hours and hours. In the summertime at 118f outside even. The oil temps then would vary from 205 to 215 well below coking. I have been known to drive faster but not consistently that fast for long time. Today, put another 150 miles on new engine. Plenty of oil pressure. But again, you drive at 85 plus for an hour then slow down, the oil temp will climb to 210 then slowly cool down.
  9. Cam shaft was toast. But the custom pistons were fine, rods, rollers, valves, timing chain, gears, bearing saddles, etc all good. So, a used crank, new cam with followers, bearings etc. 25 psi at idle and 30 psi at 3000 rpm. So, not entirely off putting but I’m glad I yanked it out.
  10. Had to drive to my Jag’s mechanic’s shop. To show off. I am now at 247 miles on rebuilt engine. Got some more to go. But it’s lovely driving weather here in Phoenix. I stayed away from everyone (by out cornering), even going up to Tortilla Flats, the restaurant was open! Unexpected. Here is what came out of the motor. On its last trip with this inside, I drove all the way to Triumphest and back last year (545 miles each way). These cars are pretty tough.
  11. When I went to design my wheel (for the taller / stouter driver), I wanted it to bolt up to the OEM hub. Both my 76 stock wheel and a stock 72 wheel have the same hub and both are dished. Not radically but when you really start measuring, they are dished.
  12. One on the left sitting in my garage, quilted maple. One on the right, Koa. A little fatter than stock, oval in cross section.
  13. Of the 5-6 TR6's I have helped work on, all had the dowel pins (2), not bolts. Critical difference? probably not. The dowels are available.
  14. CK's TR6

    Brake pads

    I have toyo vented four pots, the rears can make a big difference. Three clicks on the handbrake is about where the rears should be adjusted to. Now, I have wilwood/discs at the rear. I am running KFP gold pads front and rear. Ted Schumacher at TSI sourced/made them. The car stops well, even cold.
  15. I have a single TB on a common plenum with EFI. The plenum displaces about 3.7L. I have run a WBC 518 cam with a CR of 9.9 for over 7 years. I have had no idle quality issues, hunting, or poor response below 2000 RPM. In fact, I usually drive around 1500 rpm in the city. Here is an article re various camshafts. https://averymotorsports.com/tr6-camshaft-selection/
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