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John L

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About John L

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  • Location
    Oise
  • Cars Owned:
    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. How is the crankcase vented, is it the small pipe on the steel rocker cover, with the flame trap? I know that can restrict the airflow. I understand that the crankcase can be vented via the lift pump blanking plate, with a much bigger pipe/hose, to a catch tank, that may be a better option? The leak is thru the internal part/layers of the gasket material, if you do it again, I would consider putting some silicone on the inner edge of the gasket, on the outer slots of the pushrod holes in the gasket, that's where the oil is seeping thru. Or perhaps filtering some super glue along th
  2. I just wanted to know what sort of duty is applied to parts from the USA to either UK or EU. Somebody must have had experience of getting items from the USA? John
  3. Hi Roger, It could be either, as I'm coming to UK soon, I expect it is likely to be the same but wanted to see the options?? John
  4. I would like to get some parts from the USA, has anybody done this recently, and how much am I likely to have to pay duty wise, will it just be 20% of the parts value? Any suggestions as to the best way to get them here would be appreciated. John
  5. John L

    Misfire on 2

    Make sure when you put back the banjo fitting to put the bung seal in first and make sure its well in position before you put back the fitting, hope that makes sense? Be careful to centralise the o ring on the fitting as you tighten it up. John
  6. There are 2 bolts in the sump, one at the front and one at the rear that go into the inside of the block, just now I don't remember which ones they are, but if you take yours off again its worth a check, use a screwdriver into each hole, and 2 will go inside the block, all the others are blind, I have used copper washers at those places to help seal the threads. As said by Andy check that the tin is not bent up where the bolts go thru, also the 2 front middle ones only go into the aluminium block bridge piece, so be careful with the torque on those bolts. Is the breather clear on the
  7. I have one of the Parkside ones, and find the stool part really useful for sitting doing the brakes, I don't have a lift to get the car up in the air, without bending over too much!, as you say also the Grandchildren like it too! John
  8. Michael, Its a Piper 2TY. 284 duration. get also their followers, been please with it. Still to sort out are the rocker arms, even now if you buy 12 they will not be the same ratio, this has been one of my main problems to get a matched set, otherwise the valve timing on each valve will be different. Take a look at the photo, the end balls are against the ruler, take a look at the ones in-between, and see the gaps of the balls to the ruler, this is what changes the amount the valves should open, should all be the same! Would interested to see what your ones are like while you have it
  9. You can get an air leak around the injectors, with the engine running pull out each injector and see what sort of spray you have, poke it into a jam jar to minimise the amount of fuel spray, and feel how much pull you on the injectors, may indicate a not so good o ring seal. It might be worth checking the amount of can lift for each valve, I know the cam lobes do loose a bit of height, I not sure which ones but I have a feeling its some at the front and rear, because of reduced oil flow/splash to them, but other guys may be more specific, I had this on my 5, a new cam made all the differ
  10. I can see an arrow on the top of the diaphragm unit, pointing into the unit, shouldn't this be the fuel in connection? John
  11. Which plugs are you using? They do look a bit like they are running rich. It looks like the throttle bodies could do with a balance perhaps, and it may also be injectors leaking or not atomising correctly. Do a suck test on the vacuum pipe to the MU, it should hold a vacuum, if this is leaking the MU will run rich. May need a bit more advance perhaps, tell us what you have now. John
  12. Moss Paris have gone down in my recommendations recently, none of the individual parts are labelled anymore, usually all in one bag, difficult when some parts are left and right handed, but the kit parts are labelled, they must come from the USA or UK. Some of the prices now are really silly, I really don't see what exchange rate they use. They have always been very good at accepting parts back if not needed, but not sure now what will happen, haven't tried it yet. They do seen to be using Chronopost, now which does come to me pretty quick. John
  13. One of these too. https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/weberdellortosksolex-twin-carbscarburettors-airflow-metersynchronizer/ John
  14. I found the fibre washer on the drain plug was just a little damp, and the washers on the sender unit as well can leak a bit. Moss do an ethanol proof seal for the sender. John
  15. When you do a new cold start after a period, hold each injector line in turn and see which one is not pulsing as much as the others, with a weak pulse its usually the little o ring in the injector allowing fuel to run back to the MU, draining the pipe a bit or it it could be the non return valve in the MU doing the same. Once its running the air will be purged out as you say. Perhaps some modern injector cleaner may help to allow the needle in the injector to seal better, dont have proof of this though. John
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