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John L

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    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. Grommet available from MGOC, 17 - Grommet - Mounting 17H5431X [17] Price: £2.95 / €3.26 / US $3.18 (Including VAT at 20% except $ price)
  2. I found these from a Morris Minor could they work? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bush-pin-set-wiper-motor-mounting-17h5431.html?assoc=137369 John
  3. I have been trying to do some more checking of this cam, it is installed in the engine, so not that easy to do checks, I have a degree tap stuck to the pulley, and rocker gear in. I have set the inlet valve to 0.010", inlet opens, pushrod just going tight at 30 degrees BTDC, and closes at 260 degrees from TDC, pushrod going free, or 80 degrees ABDC. The exhaust valve is set to 0.014" and opens, pushrod just going tight at 110 degrees after TDC, and closes pushrod just free at 20 degrees ATDC. This still doesn't seem to match the original Newman spec of 38/78/78/38. or the inle
  4. Gosh this is getting......... As the engine is together at the moment, If I turn the crank to 110 degrees after TDC, compression on #6, number #1 inlet should be stationary, fully open and any movement on the crank either side of the 110 degrees the inlet should show movement. This is my logic now, correct? I suppose this timing should really be be done with a DTI direct on the cam follower, taking out any valve clearance and ratio of the rocker? Surely now depending on what tappet setting is used the valve timing will be a bit advanced or retarded to what figure I'm not sure?
  5. Bob I'm still a bit confused here, Newman say the inlet opens at 38 and closes at 78, are you taking off the tappet clearance to get your 28 and 68? Newman say 0.014" for inlet and 0.016" for exhaust. John
  6. Thanks John and Bob, I am learning but slowly....... From a mail back with Newman he said, the Lobe centre angle on the TR6 Cam is 110 Degrees, if I use one of the cam profile templates on the net will it confirm the 110 degrees, centre between with the figures of 38/78/78/38? I will try it. I have not been impressed with Newman detail at all, in fact has me more confused. John
  7. I can add a bit more info now, the 0.25" is the lobe lift of both exhaust and inlet cams. The 110degrees is the lobe centre of the inlet valve lobe. I would like to know now, how it should be set, what position should the crank be in and how do I get to find the 110 degrees on the camshaft? Any help would be much appreciated. John
  8. Jim I must say I didnt check that end, but the spec sheet uses that same reference, I was told by Newman that it did replace the CP injection cam, but I still dont really understand the spec on the sheet, or the openings and closing of the valves, but I think it reads crank at TDC, inlet lift with 0.032" and fit the chain is that correct, and what tappet setting should I use? John
  9. I replaced my original CP camshaft in 2019, because a couple of the cam lobes were not lifting the the valve enough. I ordered a new cam from Newman with the appropriate follows from them. They advised it should be this cam as a replacement, but the valve openings/closings are not the same as an original cam. I eventually got a spec sheet from them as to how it should be set, but I still don't think I have got the timing correct. Newman suggested that I should use the std tappet setting 0.010" for the valves, which has been done, but in the attached it says something different, or
  10. Or here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GEG387PAYEN John
  11. That is a recessed block, so you need a recessed gasket. Your old gasket should have a tab at the rear of the gasket to identify it, a small oblong piece of gasket that sticks out at the rear. John
  12. I presume you put in the new followers with the sump off? I didnt think they would come up thru the slots in the cylinder head, could you confirm please. John
  13. Thanks Mikael, It looks outside 1up and inner 2 up or is it three? Its the bracket positions I'm after. One comment I may make, I think its better to put the long bolts in from the inside, when the body is on you wont be able to get the long bolts out as they are now. John
  14. I have just been completing a rear end update, new blue bushes, need to rebuild one rear hub with new bearings, I have welded up the grooves in the brake back plates as well. I would be very interested to know what positions the trailing arm brackets have been set to on cars that people have just rebuilt the rear. Is there a typical starting point and what have they finished up with having done some alignment. I know about the Buckeye article, but interested to know where abouts the brackets are set, if there is a common trend. John
  15. Copper washers of the correct dimensions, some want different sizes either side of the banjo or Dowty washers with the rubber on the inside should be all you need. John
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