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John L

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  • Location
    Oise
  • Cars Owned:
    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. I know this wont be much help to you in France, but I have found this tool really helpful in testing if you have sparks, without getting a big jolts up your arm! https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/2780/HT-Lead-Ignition-Spark-Tester John
  2. Dont forget the rotor goes anti clockwise for the plug wires. 1 5 3 6 2 4. As Waldi says check for a spark, if no spark check the points and the wires connected correctly to the spring and not earthing, check the little wire at the base of the distributor. Check the little carbon brush in the distributor cap Do you have a good rotor arm, the red ones are best. I would slacken a couple of the injector pipes at the injector and crank the engine, bit like bleeding a diesel engine. Do you have a spray of carb cleaner into the inlets when cranking, at least you know then y
  3. John L

    Rockers.

    Rimmer Bros have the plugs for the end of the shaft. The shaft I fitted a while back had allen screws tapped into the shaft ends. John
  4. John L

    Rockers.

    If you look at Chris Witor site, his rockers don't have the bush but DO have the holes in the top of the rocker. Perhaps that's the difference in part number, might worth a chat with Chris. https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=139897RP John
  5. I have no idea, I have know this car for 20 years, but I have only owned it for 15 and was not touched in my ownership. John
  6. Just to close this out now, having received the new used shaft from RevingtonTR, I can confirm that the centre hole in my original cross shaft was in the wrong position. With the 2 shafts on the bench the new one on the right the fingers are 1/4" higher at the pin centre location than the old shaft on the left. Having put that into the gearbox and mounted it, the slave cylinder is now 0.693" below the end of the cylinder, so plenty of movement there, without it coming out. And the distance from the rear of the SC mounting bracket to the cross shaft middle hole is now 5 7/8". I got a
  7. If you use the equal valve lift method, how do you determine the valve clearance, as I suppose the figure is done without a tappet clearance, so by using the 0.010" valve clearance this will retard the opening by that amount surely? Or is the opening/closing degrees taking that into account with the degree opening/closing figure given? So I suppose there must/could be a formula to add that into the maths somehow, if its not included, could anybody please explain. John
  8. Welcome!, First of all make sure you have taken the power wire off the coil to stop any sparks!! I think you will need to bleed the injectors that are not spraying properly, usually just by pulling on the little tip of the injector, or just by loosening the pipe fitting to the injector. There isnt a lot of fuel being pumped at cranking speed so you will need to pull the choke out, to give the most fuel. Let us know how you get on. John
  9. Andy, The slave piston position shown is without pressure from the master cylinder, if that cylinder is meant to move 0.600" it will come out of the cylinder very nearly, the clutch plate has already done in excess of 12,000 miles so is not in a very new state. So how far inside the slave was your piston, or didn't you check it? RevingtonTR have been very helpful in identifying that the cross shaft middle hole is not in the right place, just now waiting for the new used shaft to arrive, then I can only confirm which item was a fault. They said they had seen it before, batch problem
  10. Andy, I'm trying to work out why the cross shaft outside lever is way back, and the push rod is nearly at the end of the slave cylinder, when in the rest position. The pin is not broken So either the cross shaft is wrong or the flywheel is not as thick, which will allow the thrust bearing to contact the cover further forward, thats why I have asked for the thickness of the flywheel. is you read the Revington article on flywheels mine would appear to be much thinner, hence I asked the question of the distance from the bolts to flywheel face, which Ken very kindly gave as 14.7mm
  11. I helping friend with another well know 4 cylinder car, it has a Luminition system on it, but doesnt seem to want to work, very small spark, and doesnt want to start, I dont have any knowledge of this system, is there a good trouble shooting guide anybody could lead me too, to see if I can isolate which item is the problem please? John
  12. Does anybody have a long back flywheel, from a CP engine in good condition that could take a measurement for me please?, I'm looking for a measurement from the flywheel face, (where the clutch plate runs) to the area/face where the bolts go thu to the crankshaft. I'm hoping it should be in the region of 25mm hopefully. Much appreciated John
  13. Yes too short, https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bolt-dowel-132872.html?assoc=125046
  14. From the up and down noise I would go initially for electrics, which alternator is fitted, have you checked the cut out switch for high resistance, may need a new thicker wire with a relay to the pump, also pump earth. Get this bit right first then we can look at other items. John
  15. Could also be the o rings on the outside of the injectors, air can be drawn in past the injectors. Old rings sometimes don't seal well. Do you have an bleed valve on the front inlet manifold, this should control the idle speed. Have you checked the butterfly shafts for wear, this is another possible air leak area. The bushes on the throttle shaft underneath the throttle bodies, 138490. John
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