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John L

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John L last won the day on November 9 2018

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    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. Thanks Bob, that eliminates a few models!
  2. John L

    Compression Loss

    It looks to me that it could have had the ring gaps fitted at the 12.00 and 6.00 positions, or the ends of the rings with sharp edges, normally I would always space the rings so the gaps were not in those positions. I think they will have to come out and inspect, the engine it could have also been put under heavy load early on in its life after the last repair, it may clean up using a glaze buster carefully, depending how deep the scratches are, and space rings accordingly when refitting. John
  3. John L

    Compression Loss

    I don't like the look of the scores in the bores, at what point in the bore are they orientated? Before you take the valves out, I would put some petrol into the manifold inlets and exhaust, put the head with the springs uppermost, wait a few minutes and tip over the head and see which valves are leaking. John
  4. Could it be the angle drive not running smoothly?
  5. I don't have a measurement for the length, but when fitted the clutch pedal should be the same height at rest as the brake pedal, hope that might help, I have an adjustable push rod to take up some of the wear in the hole of the pedal. John
  6. A friend has bought some wire wheels that he thought would fit his B but the offset is much to big, they are 15" diameter and have 56 spokes. Would anybody recognise which car they would be suitable for please?
  7. If you look at the moss catalogue it tells the differences, https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/engine/engines-components/external-engine-tr5-6.html I think the main items are the later CP had a strengthening along the lower part of the block. And later the top the cylinder bores there is a recess to make a better seal on the gasket. For a recessed block there is a special cylinder head gasket, and is identified by a tab sticking out at the rear of the gasket. Others may be able to add some more detail perhaps John
  8. If its the top three, Its tight but a 1/2" AF ring is the best but you may have to reduce the outer part of the ring of the spanner to be able to get in there.
  9. Available here at a price!!!https://www.limora.com/en/british-cars/triumph/triumph-tr2-to-tr4a-1953-1967/cooling-system/thermostat-housing-and-radiator-hoses/thermostat-housing-116746.html
  10. I don't know if this part may be of any use, its from the Ferguson Tractor engine, but may not be the same https://www.agrilineproducts.com/parts/cooling/thermostat-housing.html May be useful the cut up and reweld perhaps? John
  11. If its the new aluminium pump with the round mesh on the suction pipe, I think you have to readjust it to the correct length as in the WSM. or it will be too high up the oil level in the sump. Not sure why they always come screwed in, perhaps to save on packaging? John
  12. Do the larger slipper pads159003A (rimmers) fit over the existing pins in the fork?
  13. John L

    Angle Drive

    So useful info here and pictures
  14. Investigating a oil leak at the front under the steering rack, I see its coming from a hole at the bottom of the rack, looking at the parts list its part 128020, but this item is no longer available. Could I use a welsh plug if I could find the right size, or does anybody have a better idea/solution please? John
  15. Thanks Stuart Tim confirms its 50mm from the bracket to the edge of the chassis rail, I need to put on some new brackets, my distance is much shorter. I'm going to take out just the engine to give more access, is it possible to get the engine out over the stop plate on the left side chassis rail, by the timing cover, there doesn't seem much room at the bellhousing to lift it much to get the clutch off the gearbox shaft? John
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