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John L

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John L last won the day on November 9 2018

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About John L

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    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. If anybody has a new repro calliper not fitted I would be interested to know if you take out the piston and the seal, what is the shape of the groove that the seal fits in. I'm sure on the originals the seal groove is not square cut slot at its base, but slightly not the same depth at each side of the bottom of the groove this then gives the square seal a pinching action on one side of the seal to the piston. It would interesting to know if the slot for the seal on the repro ones is like this, or perhaps they have made the slot with a square cut bottom of the groove. Sorry this is a bit difficult to write, but would be interesting if the profile of the slot is the same on the repro one to the originals, its much easier to cut a square slot than a tapered one, just a machining error or a copy misunderstanding. Hope that understandable? John
  2. John L


    Completed 570kms today, even though the day and the date is not the best...….and the alternator seems to be back to normal, when reving it up, its up to 14 volts, and showing good position on the ammeter, needle just covering the + sign, I still don't understand why I couldn't get that yesterday, it had me worried something else was also wrong. That must be just to the new battery. Thanks for the support its great to know I can get some answers even this far from home! John
  3. John L


    Lights on are compulsory..... Traded the old battery for the new...……... John
  4. John L


    Will just hope its ok, another 740 miles to Helsinki via St Petersburg, keeping my fingers crossed! John
  5. John L


    Waldi As its a brand new battery, I don't think its lost anything yet. After starting the ammeter rises about a good 1/4" or more into the + side, but the battery voltage doesn't seem to increase at the battery, but perhaps 0.1volt would this mean that the alternator is charging and I needn't worry about it? John
  6. John L


    Just had a quick drive around, the ammeter only shows a very little charge, but putting a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running and reving a bit its only showing battery voltage 12,5v, as its a new calcium battery is this what I should expect see, or must I test out the alternator a bit more? Normally I see at least 13v with a lead acid battery when the engine is reved. At this stage I don't really have a clue to prove if the alternator is working any help on testing points would be of a great help please. PS All I have is a multi meter but I don't think the amps function will not go high enough to check anything. John
  7. John L


    Thanks Mike I guess that could be the reason of its sudden failure, pity it was a Bosch battery only 5 years old, will have to see how the gel one gets on. John
  8. John L


    Thanks for the replies, now things have cooled down, its the battery that has actually shorted itself out, thats a relief, been and bought a calcium battery, so hope this should be an improvement. It was strange if I disconnected the earth wire from the battery it showed 12v, as soon as connected the earth wire it was down to only about 5 volts, and now ignition functions, had it tested yes has volts but no amps. Can I still use my battery condition charger on the calcium or do I have to get another charger for the future? Perhaps I should consider uprating to the 18ACR when I get back home I'm a long way from home at the moment in Moscow, so the battery was an easy fix. John
  9. John L


    My original alternator a 15AC has died I think, is there a heat sink inside? I see this part is no longer available, so it would make sense to fit a new 18 ACR. The problem is that I am away from home, I need to order some parts to adapt the new alternator plug, and perhaps the wiring to the old control box on the wing, which I may be able to get from a LandRover dealer perhaps? Could anybody tell me what I have to do to modify the wiring to accept the new alternator please. Much appreciate any help please. John
  10. Linings will only come off or be damaged, if the driven plate is allowed to overspeed. This will happen if you drive up a slop, dip the clutch and let the car run backwards faster than it was driven up. If the clutch is clamped together its very unlikely that the linings will come loose. The engine will only rev to lets say 6000 rpm, if you were to drive up a slop, and dip the clutch (leaving the car in gear) and run back say 50 meters quite fast the speed of the driven plate driven by the diff could well exceed the 6000 engine rpm limit of the plate. The linings will come off. This used to happen very regularly of Tractors with hedge cutters, drive in a slow gear up a slop, dipping the clutch to do another run up the hedge, and roll back faster than what was driven up and the linings would fly off big time, seen it happen many times, customers expense, no warranty! John
  11. Could have had the input shaft hanging on the plate when assembled back to the engine?, has to be very square to line it up, also doesn't look like the usual plate, spring centre showing on both sides usually. John
  12. I found this, haven't used it so don't know the content, https://manuals.co/workshop/jaguar/xjs
  13. Unbalanced throttle bodies, or injectors not spraying properly. Have you checked if the MU holds vacuum or it will run rich. Could also be the nylon bearing on the throttle shaft not being there, so not opening the rear butterfly as much. Heat usually destroys them. If you take off the black cap on the MU, mark where its orientation, unlock the large ring, and turn the whole lot anticlockwise 1/4 of a turn, and tighten the lock nut again, and refit the black cap, I'm sure it will run better, if not put back to where you started. This will weaken the mixture thru the whole range. John
  14. Is it worth contacting the Triumph Sports Car Club of SA? www.triumphclubsa.com John
  15. Take off the vacuum line to the MU at the manifold and suck on it and seal the pipe with your tongue, it should hold the vacuum, (or use a vacuum pump) if it doesn't hold you need to check the diaphragm under the black top. If there is little or no vacuum the MU will run rich. Also make sure that the enriching lever/cable on the MU returns to rear and is not causing the MU to be running with choke. Check also the balance of all the throttle bodies with an air volume meter. John
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