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John L

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About John L

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  • Location
    Oise
  • Cars Owned:
    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. I'm helping a friend with his gearbox rebuild, TR5, it was dismantled some 10 years ago, dont see any real damage anywhere, the original layshaft is good, but which bearings are best, the caged ones with the small rollers or the open type with the larger rollers, the surface in the layshaft appears to be un damaged. The gearbox number CD6509. My friend had ordered 2 new bearings long ago, for the top shaft, front and rear, but these have much deeper outer bearing rings with smaller ball bearings compared to the ones that came out, will these be ok to use or should I find some like the or
  2. The header rail is attached to the side rail by a rivet, and a washer, where does the washer go? should it go between or underneath, and should that fixing have some looseness, if I refit it with a nut and bolt? John
  3. I have been using this type for a few years now, I do have to cut the ends off as they are a bit too long https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121074623347?hash=item1c309c2373:g:QQQAAMXQs6FRMNSu John
  4. I had a feeling that a while ago some were made with the wrong colour collars, so I suppose you need to take a resistance meter when buying. John
  5. George I do get a noise when the top is down, but was more thinking it was either the waterpump, the alternator, or the vented disc's whistling, will block it off with some tap and see if I still get that same noise, that will eliminate one of the noise sources. Weathers not so good for the top down at the moment, will try when possible. John
  6. The capping on my screen is this, originally it had a surrey top, there is quite a gap at the sides where the capping fits the screen surround. I think I need to take the rivets out and seal up underneath the capping.
  7. Hi Roger, I could try your friends idea as well, I was going to try some duck tape along the gap to see what difference it would make, there are a few gaps between the aluminium strip and the frame, I was thinking of taking out the rivets and putting in some windscreen sealer. John
  8. I have a Duck material soft top, when its up there seems to be a lot wind noise created by the header rail, I think? It doesn't leak water in. The rubber seal is in good condition. So a couple of questions, should there be a seal between the header rail part 713021, or is it just some window sealer underneath? The header rail is attached to the side rail by a rivet, and a washer, where does the washer go? should it go between or underneath, and should that fixing have some looseness, if I refit with a nut and bolt? Items 20,21,22, here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-
  9. I think those clips are for brake pads with a hole in the centre, that would hold the springs in, some of the Ford pads have the centre hole. John
  10. You can only change the oring on injectors with the small ring clip on the tip, be very careful when you take these off, do it somewhere where you could find it if it does escape, I usually get my rings from here, https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW3354V John
  11. The height of the pedal will be controlled by the clamp on the engine side of the bulk head, and adjust the throttle rod onto the clamp on the bracket on the carburettor bracket, there is a good picture in the WM,
  12. Got mine in France today
  13. I have a question perhaps somebody may have an answer, Lucas 22D6 distributor, 41219B, timing set with a strobe gun, at 10 degrees before TDC at about 850 erpm, if I accelerate the engine, and still with the strobe light shining on the timing marks the timing shows about 5 degrees retarded, and then will increase above the 10 degrees as the engine speed is increases, I have the correct springs fitted as supplied by DD, I questioned this with him also, and said that its normal, is this really true, all other engines I have checked not TR's, mostly BL's always increase the timing but never
  14. I would say its the diff making the noise. John
  15. Paul There was a recent thread I think from Bob who had found that the 4 locating pads behind each brake shoe in the backplate had made quite a wear mark, and was stopping the shoes closing properly, and so was not positioning the shoes correctly, worth a search but not sure under what heading to look for. John
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