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John L

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John L last won the day on November 9 2018

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About John L

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    Cars Tractors and anything mechanical

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  1. It seems that I will not be able to get my car out for a couple of months now, I understand that it may be a good idea to increase the tyre pressures to stop getting a flat spot on them, what sort of pressure should I inflate them too, would 40psi be too much? I don't have the ability to get all 4 corners off the ground. They are I95 65 15,s with tubes. I have the battery under control. John
  2. I have had a noisy Bastuk hub, it was wherrr wherr, took the hub apart with a press, not that much effort was needed, and found the smaller inner bearing cup was pitted and looked as if the bearing was tightened to much but was free to turn when fitted. I also noticed that the outer hub was not a good match for the taper shaft, and have used now some grinding paste to match the two together. If I just push them together now I have to knock the wheel flange off with a knock, so it must be a much better fit now. I have bought some Timken bearings to assemble it but not done it yet, refitted one of the older hubs to keep me mobile. A grease fitting can be fitted to the hub and some grease applied, but not sure how much should be fitted, but also the seals will not let the air out, and may push the seals out. I have a picture of one I fitted to an old hub if you need one. Here is a picture of the bearing race, I also noted that the rollers had not made a good track on the cup, so suspect the bearing to not be very good alignment. These are not Timken bearings they Powertune. The other damage to the cup I did trying to get the cup off.
  3. That engine sounds like it got a plug loose
  4. The bracket #21 goes on the pipes, it joined from there to the rear of rear diff bracket behind shock mounting with the flex strap. There was a picture on a recent topic of a chassis but I cannot find it at the moment. John PS Here is a picture from Panch blog.
  5. Does this picture help? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/exhaust/exhaust-systems/exhaust-system-tr5-6-1967-76.html Also make sure you get the manifold down pipe gasket fitted correctly it will fit 2 ways only one is right to line up with the pipes. John
  6. The PRV nut/hex is below the filter, the plug you can see by the filter is nothing to do with the PRV, its a plug in the oil gallery. John
  7. You could also use some Loctite 609 Green high strength, as well as the pin.
  8. Could be the plugs getting a bit sooted up at idle, but the engine may not have restarted at all after, as a matter of interest what is the colour of the plugs like? John
  9. Have you made sure the dowels are in gearbox to engine flange?, makes the alignment correct. If you pull the clutch lever back into the slave, while the engine is running, does the noise stop, that would indicate its the release bearing. The release bearing should be stopped then. John
  10. It looks as if the spring pans are not in the right place, and should be flat along the top face although at an angle.
  11. Why not buy these 2, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-Pi-Fuel-Pump/174221498324?hash=item28906917d4:g:LZQAAOSwfbxebpDo John
  12. John L

    PI Fuel Pressure

    Further to my intention to change my existing fuel system, I want to fit the return from the PRV into a new fitting in the tank, should this just be vented direct into the tank or should it have a drop tube attached so as the return the fuel to the bottom of the tank and hopefully not to have too many bubbles this way. Am I thinking correctly? John
  13. I think in you first picture the brake on the left should be fitted to R/H side, but the brake lever wants to face to the front The right image on the first picture will fit to the L/H side and again the brake lever should face to the front John PS Brake lever corrected.
  14. John L

    Camshaft timing

    There is something very strange going on here, if time up the cam with 0.032" lift on #1 inlet valve and set the crank to TDC fit the chain, if I then turn the cam to full lift and check the position of the crank its 10 degrees out. If I check then the opening of the #1 inlet valve with the 0.014" tappet clearance, as stated in the timing sheet, with the push rod just tight, it is at least 10 degrees retarded, and not opening at 28 degrees as detailed. If I also set the cam to full lift and check the crank position its 10 degrees retarded Am I doing something wrong, or I'm beginning to think that the spec sheet is not what the cam is ground too perhaps? Any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong, I would be very great full, I'm beginning to think there must be something adrift or I'm bats!! John
  15. John L

    Camshaft timing

    Jochem, So the timing sheet I have quotes 0.250" cam lift, inlet and exhaust, It quotes 110 degrees cam peak difference, and a cam duration of 276 for inlet and exhaust. So how do I set the cam and crank with these figures please, or do you need some other numbers? The other numbers quote are 68 degrees exhaust valve opens BBDC 28 degrees exhaust closes ATDC 28 degrees inlet valve opens BTDC 68 degrees inlet valve closes ABDC John
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