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John L

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Everything posted by John L

  1. My distributor cap hold down clips are under #3 and #4 plug leads which I think is how you have yours, as long at the tacho cable doesn't have too much of a turn to go thru the bulkhead that should be OK. John
  2. Andy You could ask CTM, who make the chassis, from a quick look in the manual the rear and front pins are equal distant from the centre line of the chassis, does that help? John
  3. I've just done new pipework to the PI system, removed the CAV filter and added a new PRV return to the top of the tank. Had to have the tank out to weld in a new fitting, and also changed the fibre washer on the drain plug which wasn't really as tight as I thought it should have been, no petrol smell now just the paint on the tank! Its difficult to see or get at, easier to take the tank out. John
  4. John L

    Rubber fuel pipe

    Available from Moss, https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?o=baracade&q=barricade&search_group= I also had a smell of petrol in the boot, I had the tank out anyway, and found the fibre washer on the drain plug could have been the culprit, worth a check. John
  5. John L

    TR6 Fuel Issue

    Which carbs are running, if they are Stromberg CD's you may need to have the air compensators readjusted for hot running, if they are SU perhaps they need making slightly more rich, the hotter weather is making a difference with the E5 petrol. John
  6. There looks like a bolt is missing in the coupling the head of the bolt is missing. Also it looks like the steering column is not fitted into the coupling correctly, the cut out in the splines should be where the bolt goes, to stop the column pulling out of the coupling if the jam bolt comes loose. Some careful attention to detail here is needed! John
  7. Is it Pi or Carbs?, if injection I would check the throttle opening balance, the nylon bushes do wear badly due to the heat of the exhaust manifold.
  8. John L

    Carpets

    TR shop had them on offer when I got my set from them, very happy with the fit. The only bit I didn't like was the wear pad on both side of the tunnel carpet, have taken the L/H side one off, pity its got some glue underneath. John
  9. I agreed, there is nothing wrong with points and condenser, if you get the right proper ones, much better stuff available now from DD including rotor arms, but they do go out of adjustment over time where the electric hall effect ones don't, and can be fitted to a worn distributor without any further need of reconditioning. If you use points its important to set them with a dwell meter, so that the coil can work at its best, there's another item that's best to pay a bit more for. John
  10. Basically they have to be the carbon string, not wire, and shouldn't have resister plug ends either, when I talked to Accuspark, I wanted to fit resister plug ends to stop a bit of radio interference but they advised not to. Their site is good with a lot of information in the small print. I have fitted many of their kits to lots of friends cars and my own and not had any problems. hope I haven't jinks it now. John
  11. If you go to the Accuspark site https://simonbbc.com/ its well explained, you have to read thru a bit though. You could also give them a call, I spoke to them yesterday for a kit for a MG TD. Hope that helps John
  12. Some of the Hall effect electronic modules don't like restive plugs, hope those iridium are not restive. Also only use silicone HT leads not wire ones. John
  13. I have tried many times to contact this company without success, they don't answer emails or the phone even before all the mess. Its a pity as they are ones I'm looking for! Even if to say no stock, he doesn't seem bothered to check, so presume they don't have any more. John
  14. How old is the petrol, the new E5 petrol does go off, if has been left for a time, may be worth getting out what's in there out and try some new 98 in. If the injector nozzle o rings leak a bit, it will allow fuel to drain back thru the non return valves in the MU. John
  15. Sorry its not a TR question, but what sort of dwell angle should I see with a distributor with points with a points gap of 0.014" - 0.016"? with 4 cylinder engine. I see some quote dwell with points closed and some with points open, my old meter doesn't distinguish this, would I be right in thinking it should be about 60 - 65 degrees dwell? John
  16. Have you got the windows down, if so it could be the felt missing off the window stop in the bottom of the door. John
  17. I have just been ordering some main and idle jets, 8 in all from Webcon in uk, on their web page their economy mail was listed at £27, having spoken to them its now £8! Their excuse was that RM can be slow at the moment. John
  18. Perhaps you need some more heat in your garage to stretch the chassis, leave the body outside.... Sorry I'll get my coat....
  19. The exchange rate between Moss UK and Moss FR is ridiculously high, also many of the suppliers don't want to use RM for some reason, or they have to have a tracking system, so they can prove the parcel has been received, many suppliers have been caught out by dishonest receivers claiming parts not delivered. Jiffy bags just don't seem to exist any more with so many suppliers. John
  20. This might give you a cross reference of the different heads, https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf You may have to check the casting and stamped numbers on the front of the head, as this list covers more or the 2500 cars than the US TR's John
  21. I'm sure there should be a restrictor in the bolt that fits into the cylinder head to limit the amount of oil going in there, but I don't remember the size of the hole, I'm sure somebody else will be able to tell, worth just to take it out and see what size hole is that bolt. John
  22. I don't know the size of the Restorations cover. Is the Restorations cover the same dimensions as the old pressed steel gasket?, Rimmers and Moss do a Silicone rubber gasket that fits the size of the steel cover and is shaped to fit it, and has worked well for me as you can take the cover on and off many times and does seal well, without too much pressure from the 3 mounting nuts. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GEG413URT John
  23. I hope you have taken some of that lovely paint off the mating surfaces between the spacer and the steering arm and hub? John
  24. Could be one of the 2 idle jets with a bit of blockage, or some water in that carb. I wouldn't touch any settings until you have given it an Italian tune up. John
  25. Peter I think you need to tell us a bit more about your setup Has the engine been rebuilt,? Is this first time running with these carbs? Was it running fine before, what's been done since? John
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