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John L

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Everything posted by John L

  1. John L

    mu unit

    Have a look at this article on the TR6 forum
  2. Have a look at this members website there is lots of info there, tr4a.weebly.com/ John
  3. I have a Peugeot 205 Rallye with twin Webers, and find that when the mixture is a bit weak it spits back thru the carbs. I also notice that the outside air temperature has a bearing on how the carbs are set, summer running is fine but have to tweek them a little when the temperature drops in the winter time. I also don't need to use the choke, just 2 full pumps on the accelerator pedal and starting is fine. John
  4. They also need some careful driving initially to get rid of the release agent from the tyres that they put in the mould, especially on motor bike tyres. Certainly over inflation doesn't help
  5. Having got the housing out of the diff, I thought that I would see some play in the bearing, but it seems to be good. The reason I took it out, I could lift the flange a very small amount, but now out I'm not convinced that this bearing is the problem. I'm trying to locate a wheer wheer from the rear, I have replaced the rear hubs with some brand new ones some time ago 17,000 miles, I cannot believe these can be the problem yet, any ideas would be helpful? John
  6. Thanks for the replies, I have a friend with a 20 ton press will give that a go this week. Does anybody have a reference for a Timken bearing, the Moss one looks too cheap? John
  7. I feel the head gasket weep on the side is due to the oil coming thru the middle of the gasket, and not underneath/between the block/head faces, as the repro ones don't have a sealed holes like the Payen ones here, http://www.heritagegasketsltd.co.uk/products/4588089187/triumph-payen-ref-no-ae350/9368918 John
  8. How big a press is needed to get the drive shaft flange off the axle shaft to change the bearing? Is it going to be the same sort of issue as the outer wheel bearing flange? Does anybody have a Timken bearing number for this bearing? Moss part number 134465. John
  9. I have just rechecked my fuel pressure out of interest after my adventure, and the change of the battery, with just the key on engine not running I see 125psi. I know the pressure should only be 110psi max. I haven't had any problems, car runs fine, no extra fuel consumption, I think it even starts better. Suppose I should put it back to 110psi max or leave? This is just with my new battery, I must say I'm impressed with the Russian item so far, its showing 13V with nothing connected, I didn't think the old Bosch battery was that bad, as I had set the pressure a few weeks before my departure. John
  10. Doesn't go deep enough...…..
  11. It looks a bit like a tool for tightening differential side bearings, if you add the various legs to suit the ring size notches.....perhaps John
  12. Do you mean these parts from Moss https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/terminal-kit-bulb-socket-twin-contact-37h5459.html?assoc=115652 John
  13. If anybody has a new repro calliper not fitted I would be interested to know if you take out the piston and the seal, what is the shape of the groove that the seal fits in. I'm sure on the originals the seal groove is not square cut slot at its base, but slightly not the same depth at each side of the bottom of the groove this then gives the square seal a pinching action on one side of the seal to the piston. It would interesting to know if the slot for the seal on the repro ones is like this, or perhaps they have made the slot with a square cut bottom of the groove. Sorry this is a bit difficult to write, but would be interesting if the profile of the slot is the same on the repro one to the originals, its much easier to cut a square slot than a tapered one, just a machining error or a copy misunderstanding. Hope that understandable? John
  14. John L


    Completed 570kms today, even though the day and the date is not the best...….and the alternator seems to be back to normal, when reving it up, its up to 14 volts, and showing good position on the ammeter, needle just covering the + sign, I still don't understand why I couldn't get that yesterday, it had me worried something else was also wrong. That must be just to the new battery. Thanks for the support its great to know I can get some answers even this far from home! John
  15. John L


    Lights on are compulsory..... Traded the old battery for the new...……... John
  16. John L


    Will just hope its ok, another 740 miles to Helsinki via St Petersburg, keeping my fingers crossed! John
  17. John L


    Waldi As its a brand new battery, I don't think its lost anything yet. After starting the ammeter rises about a good 1/4" or more into the + side, but the battery voltage doesn't seem to increase at the battery, but perhaps 0.1volt would this mean that the alternator is charging and I needn't worry about it? John
  18. John L


    Just had a quick drive around, the ammeter only shows a very little charge, but putting a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running and reving a bit its only showing battery voltage 12,5v, as its a new calcium battery is this what I should expect see, or must I test out the alternator a bit more? Normally I see at least 13v with a lead acid battery when the engine is reved. At this stage I don't really have a clue to prove if the alternator is working any help on testing points would be of a great help please. PS All I have is a multi meter but I don't think the amps function will not go high enough to check anything. John
  19. John L


    Thanks Mike I guess that could be the reason of its sudden failure, pity it was a Bosch battery only 5 years old, will have to see how the gel one gets on. John
  20. John L


    Thanks for the replies, now things have cooled down, its the battery that has actually shorted itself out, thats a relief, been and bought a calcium battery, so hope this should be an improvement. It was strange if I disconnected the earth wire from the battery it showed 12v, as soon as connected the earth wire it was down to only about 5 volts, and now ignition functions, had it tested yes has volts but no amps. Can I still use my battery condition charger on the calcium or do I have to get another charger for the future? Perhaps I should consider uprating to the 18ACR when I get back home I'm a long way from home at the moment in Moscow, so the battery was an easy fix. John
  21. John L


    My original alternator a 15AC has died I think, is there a heat sink inside? I see this part is no longer available, so it would make sense to fit a new 18 ACR. The problem is that I am away from home, I need to order some parts to adapt the new alternator plug, and perhaps the wiring to the old control box on the wing, which I may be able to get from a LandRover dealer perhaps? Could anybody tell me what I have to do to modify the wiring to accept the new alternator please. Much appreciate any help please. John
  22. Linings will only come off or be damaged, if the driven plate is allowed to overspeed. This will happen if you drive up a slop, dip the clutch and let the car run backwards faster than it was driven up. If the clutch is clamped together its very unlikely that the linings will come loose. The engine will only rev to lets say 6000 rpm, if you were to drive up a slop, and dip the clutch (leaving the car in gear) and run back say 50 meters quite fast the speed of the driven plate driven by the diff could well exceed the 6000 engine rpm limit of the plate. The linings will come off. This used to happen very regularly of Tractors with hedge cutters, drive in a slow gear up a slop, dipping the clutch to do another run up the hedge, and roll back faster than what was driven up and the linings would fly off big time, seen it happen many times, customers expense, no warranty! John
  23. Could have had the input shaft hanging on the plate when assembled back to the engine?, has to be very square to line it up, also doesn't look like the usual plate, spring centre showing on both sides usually. John
  24. I found this, haven't used it so don't know the content, https://manuals.co/workshop/jaguar/xjs
  25. Unbalanced throttle bodies, or injectors not spraying properly. Have you checked if the MU holds vacuum or it will run rich. Could also be the nylon bearing on the throttle shaft not being there, so not opening the rear butterfly as much. Heat usually destroys them. If you take off the black cap on the MU, mark where its orientation, unlock the large ring, and turn the whole lot anticlockwise 1/4 of a turn, and tighten the lock nut again, and refit the black cap, I'm sure it will run better, if not put back to where you started. This will weaken the mixture thru the whole range. John
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