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John L

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Everything posted by John L

  1. Have you checked the vacuum capsule on the distributor holds vacuum, or the pipe to it?
  2. John L


    Has anybody had any dealings with this company http://www.heritagegasketsltd.co.uk/products/4588089188 , I've phoned many times left messages, sent emails, but so far no reply, I'm in need of a new head gasket and these look just what I need, non recessed, I don't know if there may be somebody in the Slough area that could make a visit to see if they want to do business please. Would be interested to know if there is a way to purchase goods from these people, or does the company actually exist, or is there a special code to buy from them? I would like to buy 2 gaskets a head gasket #AE350 and #JA510 manifold gasket. John
  3. There should filters in the inlet unions into the Weber carbs, worth a check, parts can be fitted. John
  4. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-7H3858 seems to be the long one. John
  5. I use a long one from Moss, its a K&N HP2009, moss # 235-830. John
  6. I would have thought that the closer to 20 degrees the better, are you moving the pedestal or the MU drive gear shaft? would have a smaller variation on the MU shaft as the gear teeth are smaller. John
  7. The CR timing is only 20 - 45 degrees ATDC compared to the CP which is at TDC firing using #6 outlet on the MU, not sure where you get the 180 degrees different? John
  8. Can you give us the part number you ordered as it doesn't look like the what is pictured please. Rimmers show this one https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RTC812P John
  9. John L

    Ignition Timing

    I think you need to know what cam lever is fitted inside the distributer, it will be stamped with a number, this part limits the full advance, a small amount can be ground off it, to allow more max movement and so increases the total advance number. john
  10. OK.... see you Sunday. John
  11. While you have good access to the bottom plate I would check the 'control orifice', picture attached. Courtesy of Buckeye Technical pages. John J type overdrive.docx
  12. This is the inner bearing of a new rear Bastuk hub from TR shop, did only 17,000 miles, its a Powertune bearing, it looks as if it was tightened too much when new, the other damage that you can see is me trying to get the bearing off the shaft. Not impressed, TR shop not interested after 5 years..... If you look closely at the track it was only really touching at the top of the bearing, so all the load at that ring on the top. The hub turned ok when I fitted it, but no play. Got a new Timken bearings for the hub, the new one doesn't want to go on the shaft, old one just slides on and off. John
  13. I have kept my rear bumper after an accident some 4 years ago, don't throw original parts away, I was intending to come to the Spares day at the weekend, would anybody be interested in giving me a few pounds for it? There is no rust on it at all even on the inside. I am loathed to bin it when somebody may be able to get it straightened?.... Best offer secures John
  14. Sounds a bit like the one way clutch is damaged. Have you got the isolator switches correctly wired, you shouldn't be able to get overdrive in reverse, that's what breaks the one way clutch. Oh dear box out again.. John
  15. In South Africa an adjustable spanner is called a "Free State Micrometre" John
  16. What did your man actually find out about the harshness? He seems to have fixed the harshness in his eyes! Cant you get him to look at it now as its his work. Do you have a pressure gauge? John
  17. Thank you everybody so far good detail, made a start, one more question, does the dip switch on the bulkhead be fitted on top of the carpet, or do I need to cut a hole for it to pass thru? Have borrowed a super hole punch set, with up to 40mm holes. John
  18. This may help also, https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf John
  19. Heres a picture from my TR2,3,4 manual. It will depend really where the lip of the seal is in the seal itself, Some have fitted a double lip seal here. Make sure the circlip on the input bearing is not blocking the drain hole on the left side of the gearbox, make sure all the bolts have only copper washers fitted as the threads are open into the gearbox, including the 2 at the bottom on the layshaft hole. John
  20. Never used them https://www.lincon.co.uk/classic_car_batteries.html John
  21. I have been given a nice Chrissy present from my wife, a new wool set of black carpets with underlay, from TRShop. I have now started to fit them but are unsure of a couple of things and wondered what others had done, having never done this job before. Along the curved sill panel there are some slots in the panel, some are covered with a piece of plastic like tape glued down, what could be used to clover a couple that are not covered? The original fixing studs in the floor are all still in place, should I cut a hole in the underlay, at the appropriate place to allow the carpet to be clipped to the stud on the floor, so keeping the underlay in place under the carpet? or must I get the longer studs, which seem to be a silly price? It would seem that I just have to make 4 holes in the carpet and the underlay to mount the seat rails, and tighten down the frame, is this good practice? I don't think I need to make the mat removable, by cutting slots? Any help would be much appreciated please. John
  22. John L


    What temperature thermostat is fitted, that will determine the hot of the heater, do you have a heat gun available to check what heat is where? John
  23. Weaker mixture, compared to when you had the choke on? Engine speed rises. How far open are the butterflies, fag paper gap, do you have the later manifold with the bypass? Are the butterflies centred in the bodies? Are the right springs in the vacuum capsule of the MU? John
  24. Try Chris Witor https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=140509SH John
  25. I know these are available in nylon or something as hard, but does anybody make/supply a bronze bush? Seems it could be an item to get made in bronze? There are some parts for the pedal shaft bushes on the Buckeye site, unfortunately I don't have a lathe to turn some up. Also the middle bush could be difficult to manufacture, or has somebody been able to do it without cutting and rewelding the shaft? I have fitted several of the nylon bushes but they don't seem to last very long,with the heat off the manifold and everything in that area is hot! John
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