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KiwiTR6

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KiwiTR6 last won the day on December 8 2018

KiwiTR6 had the most liked content!

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About KiwiTR6

  • Birthday 02/04/1957

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.taranakimotorcycles.co.nz/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Stratford, New Zealand
  • Cars Owned:
    Currently
    1973 TR6 in Pimento Red
    1992 Nissan GTIR with Mazda KF-ZE V6 and RWD
    2010 Toyota TRD Auris (Corolla - for the wife).
    2005 Toyota Corolla (for the daughter). Reliable as hell (gotta love Toyotas!).
    2019 Toyota Hilux (work vehicle).
    1972 Kawasaki W1. Still on the market.

    Previous
    1964 Ford Thunderbird. Took up far too much room in my shed.
    2001 Alfa 156 V6. Absolutely delightful but my wife made me sell it.

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  1. KiwiTR6

    Paint Job

    I do like the Mimosa yellow on the TR, it would look rubbish on anything else. Your man has done a great job.
  2. KiwiTR6

    Sump Dent

    Thanks Gareth, mine doesn't look so bad after all Cheers, Gavin.
  3. KiwiTR6

    Sump Dent

    I've just reinstalled the gearbox and note that the sump has been pushed up slightly as per the photo. I have a feeling it was already like this but I did support the rear of the motor on a jack at this point so it may be new. I intend removing it at some point to repaint it and can push it back into shape at that time, but don't want to do so at this point. Is there any likelihood I have created a restriction for the pick up? Cheers
  4. KiwiTR6

    EFI - What Plugs?

    +1 with the rocker cover breather disconnected from the plenum to prevent oil fouling of the rear plugs. Standard PI and distributor ignition.
  5. Hi John. The back is fine thanks. The box assembly wasn't quite as heavy as I'd feared and my brother-in-law is a fairly burley bloke so not a lot of effort required on my part. The OD will be at the specialist tomorrow. When I spoke with him today I asked if he was going to run it up on a test rig. His response was "No, I've been doing this for 40 years so it will be fine!" His name is Ian Preistley and originally from the UK so someone on the forum may know him from years past? Gavin
  6. KiwiTR6

    Brake pads

    Thanks Roger, I'll have to check them out
  7. Well, it seems it's not possible to remove the OD unit on its own! Not easily anyway. It may be possible if the radiator is removed and the engine mounts freed so that the engine could be moved forward or rearward as appropriate, but removing the gearbox and OD together would be a much easier approach as it turns out. Despite my best efforts, I found that the gearbox can neither be lifted high enough pivoting on the engine mounts to clear the rear tunnel nor dropped low enough to to remove the OD through the floor. In the first instance the gearbox's vertical movement is limited by the firewall and the OD will not clear the tunnel with the gearbox still attached to the motor. My next move was to drop it out through the floor (certainly looked feasible from above and underneath). To make the job easier I removed the front section of the prop shaft, the the rear gearbox support bracket and the gearbox cover/shifter assembly. As an aside, the bolts securing the support bracket have tabs brazed to them making removal extremely easy. A very simple and clever idea! All was looking good with the engine dropped as far as I could with the rear of the cylinder head pushing hard against the battery tray and the lower fan blade hard against the radiator core. I disconnected the OD unit from the gearbox and slid it back on the shaft only to find that it was prevented from sliding completely off by the rear support brackets on the inside of the chassis rails. There was no way it would fit through.it was just too wide for the gap between the brackets. Damn!!! The only upside to this was that I was able to easily remove the upper bellhousing bolts. The real downside was that I couldn't get the OD unit back into its original postion to secure it to the gearbox. It was hung up on something and I wasn't prepared to force it so gearbox removal was going to have to be from that point forward in order to avoid any chance of bending the main shaft. There was a lot of cold sweating going on at this point! I then made up a support from a piece of angle iron and bolted it to the top of the box and blocked it from the floor. I then fitted a ratchet tie-down secured to a bolt through the handbrake pivot to pull the gearbox back. This work really well. I used a large trolley jack to support the rear of the engine and a small one under the gearbox. After some toing and froing with the jacks I had the box free and in a position it could be removed. A quick call to my BIL sorted that. From what I could see of the OD, the piston looked to be in a fairly sad state. However its all packaged up now and I'll leave it to my specialist to diagnose the cause of the problem I've been experiencing. Thanks everyone for your comments and advice. Always much appreciated. Regards Gavin Thanks to everyone who offered their comments and advice. All very much appreciated as always. Gavin
  8. KiwiTR6

    Brake pads

    Ditto, I like Aussie and visit fairly often, but it's far too hot for my liking.
  9. Hi Waldi. My specialist has plenty of gearboxes and OD units on hand so testing shouldn't be an issue. It's essential that it is working correctly after going to all of this trouble, hence why I'm not attempting it myself. Although in different circumstances, I may well have given it a go! Regards Gavin
  10. Thanks for the advice 2 x John's, Mick and Alf. Thankfully I'm not a complete cripple, I just have to be careful when lifting. I'm fortunate enough to have a 2-post hoist, engine crane and willing helpers I can call on if necessary. If in the end the gearbox has to come out, it will! The guy doing the rebuild tells me the OD unit is relatively light and that's the only thing that needs attention, hence my question. Cheers
  11. Thanks Berry. Any idea where you might have read it?
  12. This link to my earlier thread gives the background https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/71067-j-type-overdrive-harsh-shifting/ I think NobbyC's suggestion of the bronze thrust washer having been left out is quite plausible, hence the decision to remove the unit.
  13. KiwiTR6

    Brake pads

    Yeah it's crazy. Any vehicle registered after1 Jan 2000 is on a 12-month WOF, new vehicles have a 3-year interval to first inspection - then back to 12-months, whereas my poor old girl who only gets drive a few hundred km's between inspections has to have it done every 6 months. It's a pain in the neck and what's crazier still (although better of course) is that she is on classic registration and insurance which are both very cheap due to the "general high standard of car maintenance and low annual mileage" that classics do. Bureaucracy....
  14. I'm wanting to remove my J-type OD unit to have it repaired or exchanged as I've been unsuccessful in getting rid of the shock when it engages and disengages. The gearbox and clutch were also overhauled by/for the PO ond both work fine so I'd rather leave them in place if I can as I have a back injury. I've removed the propshaft flange and was hoping I can lift the grearbox with a trolley jack and swing the OD up to clear the tunnel by pivoting on the engine mounts. I will have to at least remove the exhaust system to do this. Will this work? Do I need to remove the gear selector/gearbox cover assembly? Can I dismantle the OD unit and remove it piece by piece starting at the back end (bearing in mind my earlier comments)? I realise that the rebuilt/exchange unit will have to go back in one piece but that will be less of a mental challenge once I have got to that point. Any other thoughts or comments would be much appreciated
  15. KiwiTR6

    Brake pads

    I have Mintex 1144's in the front and upgraded the rear cylinders to the fractionally larger Morgan part. My WOF (Warrant of Fitness - yes we still need one over here and what's worse is that it's every 6 monhs!) tester told me they're the best brakes he's tested on a classic car. They do squeal a bit when cold but that's because I used spray-on anti-sqeal and ditched the shims. I didn't like the way the pistons only half sit on the shims. Perhaps thats how they work, but seems like bad engineering to me. The pads came from Revington's from memory.
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