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KiwiTR6 last won the day on December 8 2018

KiwiTR6 had the most liked content!

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About KiwiTR6

  • Birthday 02/04/1957

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  • Location
    Stratford, New Zealand
  • Cars Owned:
    1973 TR6 in Pimento Red
    1992 Nissan GTIR with Mazda KF-ZE V6 and RWD
    2010 Toyota TRD Auris (Corolla - for the wife).
    2005 Toyota Corolla (for the daughter). Reliable as hell (gotta love Toyotas!).
    2019 Toyota Hilux (work vehicle).
    1972 Kawasaki W1. Still on the market.

    1964 Ford Thunderbird. Took up far too much room in my shed.
    2001 Alfa 156 V6. Absolutely delightful but my wife made me sell it.

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  1. Well, after having ordered the parts from ORS I came across an advert for a guy not too far from where I live and who has 40 years experience rebuilding English gearboxes and overdrive units. He is English himself and has had a lot to do with Pete at ORS over the years. He supplies rebuilt exchange units for around UK 275 pounds so I'm going to send him mine with the gasket kit to repair or exchange, whichever is cheapest. I've mentioned the possibility of the thrust washer having been left out and he'll let me know what the actual cause of the harshness was. Will update again in due course.
  2. Hi Nobby. Thanks for the extra info, it makes a lot of sense in that no one else has been able to give an explanation as to why this harshness exists and it would also explain the concerning amount of fine silver particles shimmering in the oil. It looks like the box is going to have to be split to find out exactly what the problem is so I've just ordered a service kit and thrust washer from ORS.
  3. Can you please elaborate Nobby? Is there any way I can check without removing and stripping the unit?
  4. Hi Mike. I don't think this is the cause of the harsh shifting problem. I was expecting to see 500 + psi and planned to change the shims in the relief valve to bring this down to where it should be. Instead I'll carry out the check valve reseat procedure and check the pressure again. I've just sent the video link and backfground info to Peter at ORS as Bruce has suggested and will await his comments before proceeding any further. I don't want to pull the O/D out and strip it, but it would also give me the opportunity to address the various oil leaks at the paper gaskets and elsewhere which annoy the hell out of me! Whoever rebuilt it had never heard of Hylomar
  5. Hi All. I made up an adaptor yesterday for the gauge I'd purchased a while back to test the O/D oil pressure. With the help of my brother-in-law this morning we videoed the gauge as I ran the car on my hoist with the rear wheels removed. The clip shows the O/D being engaged in 3rd gear at an indicated 40 km/hr and then disengaged. The low pressure appears to be OK (high range gauge so the needle sitting off the stop may well represent 20 psi), but what I didn''t expect is the massive fluctuation in the high pressure ranging from 350-450 psi. Any thoughts as to whether this is normal or not? I suspect that the non-return valve on the pump is leaking so that will have to come out and be reseated, but would this account in any way for the harsh shifting? Video can be viewed at https://youtu.be/ZjPU-duJpkg Gavin
  6. Thanks for your confirmation of Robin's recommendation John, much appreciated. Regards Gavin
  7. Hi Robin. Yes I understandard that the viscosity figures for engine and transmission oils are different as you say, but the oil I drained out was quite thick and tacky, a bit like chainsaw bar oil. The 30W engine oil certainly made a diffence but isn't the answer, there is something else going on. For someone who has mechanical sympathy, this is not going to end well if I continue to use it this way . Once I get this sorted I'll certainly take your advice re the oil to use. Regards Gavin
  8. Hi Harry. As far as I know it's the standard setup, just overhauled and done around 7,500 kms since. Cheers
  9. KiwiTR6

    TR6 Radio

    I purchased one of these but have yet to fit it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RetroSound-LAGUNA-C-Radio-3-5mm-AUX-In-for-ipod-Push-Button-502-36-Euro-Porsche/361963025815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l46252
  10. Agree, any gear oil used will be GL4.
  11. Hi Mike. I was just following up on what I had found on various forums where I noted several comments about high viscosity gear oils causing high pump pressure and slow oil flow through galleries. I think I proved that there is some validity to this argument as the shock reduced by half with the 30W, but it's still not right. My driving is probably no different now - hard on the motor and gentle on the drivetrain! To date I haven't found any information on adjusting the pump pressure so I'm hopefull that Bruces suggested contact with ORS will give me some relevant guidance. Regards Gavin
  12. Hi Rich. I'm almost certain that it will be the original unit and not upgraded. I''ve tried changing with no throttle position change (which is how I recall using it in the family PI) and with backing off the throttle a little. Neither produces a smooth change. If I recall correctly I used to be able to sit behind a car on the open road in 3rd overdrive then flick the OD out and rocket past when the coast was clear with no noticable shock. At that tender age I would have been horrified if that had happened. Regards Gavin
  13. Hi Bruce. Thanks for your advice, ever helpful as always! My unit is definitely a J type with the bottom sump plate and 3 plugged chambers above. The 30W is mineral engine oil and was added just for trial purposes as it was on-hand and I didn't want to wait around for some good stuff to arrive (and its expensive). I will eventually use a Morris oil fit for purpose. Also, I will definitely call ORS as you suggest, it's just a matter of timing with where I'm located. I have a suitable gauge for testing the pressure (0-600psi from memory) but don't want to take the OD out of the car at this stage so testing could be a bit of a mission. I could run it on my 2-post hoist but I'm a little wary of doing so considering the rpm and gear I'd need to run it in. Hopefully ORS will be able to advise on this also. Kind regards Gavin
  14. I'm sure I've asked about this before but can't find the thread so here we go again. The gearbox and overdrive units in my 73 CR were 'rebuilt' for the PO and I have no doubt that this was the case. The gearbox is sweet to use but the overdrive engagement/disengagement has been so harsh that I have to use the cluch for fear of damaging something. It was like this when I purchased the car as the PO made me aware of it. Recently I took the slack out of the diff rubber mounts and that got rid of the horrible banging but did nothing for the harshness. This weekend just gone I drained the oil (which appeared to be a 90W gear oil), removed the sump, made up a tool and dismantled the oil control valves, high pressure filter and non-return valve. All appeared to be in good order and correctly assembled, although there was a worrying amount of fine metal particles in the high pressure filter (none in the main suction filter). After reassembling everything I filled the gearbox with SAE30 oil that I had on hand and took her for a drive. The harshness had decreased by at least 50%, but still nowhere near as smooth as I remember when a teenager driving my Dad's 2.5 PI sedan. I sort of understand the basics of the system and how high viscosity oil can cause issues with pressure and flow through the restrictor, so my thinking is that with the 30W oil neither should be an issue. This leads me to believe that clutch material is biting rather than smoothly engaging. The reason for my suspicion is that the PO in his list of completedworks notes that the cluch was rebuilt by an 'engineer' rather than an overdrive specialist. I'm wondering if the clutch friction material is not suitable for this application. Any thoughts as to what the problem may be and where to from here? Gavin
  15. Have you checked the rear brakes? If the RH rear is grabbing then the car will tend to pull to the left. Probably not the case here, but a friend of mine fitted new shoes to the rear of his classic Chev and could not pass a warrant of fitness test (WOF) on the brake machine due to imbalance in the rears. Short story, it turned out that the friction material on one set was softer than the other even though they were in identical packaging. The work was done by two garages (the second found the problem) so cost him a bomb as I recall.
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