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KiwiTR6 last won the day on December 8 2018

KiwiTR6 had the most liked content!

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About KiwiTR6

  • Birthday 02/04/1957

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  • Location
    Stratford, New Zealand
  • Cars Owned:
    1973 TR6 in Pimento Red
    1992 Nissan GTIR with Mazda KF-ZE V6 and RWD
    2010 Toyota TRD Auris (Corolla - for the wife).
    2005 Toyota Corolla (for the daughter). Reliable as hell (gotta love Toyotas!).
    2019 Toyota Hilux (work vehicle).
    1972 Kawasaki W1. Still on the market.

    1964 Ford Thunderbird. Took up far too much room in my shed.
    2001 Alfa 156 V6. Absolutely delightful but my wife made me sell it.

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  1. KiwiTR6

    MX5 seats

    I have the Mk1 seats and TR Traders brackets but I'm currently Yak shaving elsewhere so they're still in storage upstairs...
  2. I also don't bother ordering from Moss due their exorbitant shipping costs. Although Rimmers might not be quite so favoured, a lot of their products are the same and they generally offer several shipping options including Royal mail, which is very reasonably priced. Cheers Gavin
  3. Hi all. I'm not actually doing a restoration as such but recently came across the following YouTube video which may be worth a look for anyone doing panel work. Gavin
  4. Don't waste your money on iridium plugs and use BUR6ET's as Mike suggests. To reduce or eliminate the fouling on No's 5 & 6 run the rocker cover breather to a catch can or a simple filter as I have. The hose on the latter falls back to the rocker cover and the filter and its surrounding have remained clean as you can see. Gavin
  5. This is the unit I fitted recently, I'm pretty sure it's manufactured in Italy. An auto-electricain friend sourced it for me and it wasn't too badly priced (at trade price ). The front pivot and bracket mate up perfectly. I drilled the ACR fan to fit the shaft and lathed the back off the orinal pulley to get the correct belt alignment and ratio (I may have also drilled the centre out). Lastly, not wanting to damage the factory (Moss) loom, I made up a jumper lead set which plugs into the alternator connector block utilising some old male blade connectors converted to female using some copper strip soldered in place. It was relatively straight forward and I'm very happy with the outcome. Gavin
  6. Hi All. Just a cautionary note re bolting down the screen frame. When doing this don't go overboard as the PO of my car did and end up with the screen at the wrong angle! The angle needs to match the leading edge of the side windows but also such that the top edge of the same needs to match the angle of the soft top opening. On my car I ran out of adjustment in the bolts that secure the w/screen post brackets (behind the front edges of the doors) leaving a gap which allowed the PO to pull the screen down too low. There is also a limit to how much you can juggle the side windows to match the screen angle and also the horizontal soft top opening (as I found out the hard way). In my case, after adjsting the side windows and screen clamp bolt nest to it I ended up with slightly different angles each side of the screen frame but this allowed me to match everything up nicely as the photo shows. The only remaining issue was that I had a gap above the screen post brackets both sides preventing me from putting any real torque on the nuts without altering the screen angle. No photos sorry, just a really rough sketch showing where I installed horseshoe shaped spacers of the correct thickness by tapping them into place (awkward, but do-able). I was then able to crank the locking nuts up tight without altering the screen angle leaving me with a good fit all around. Gavin
  7. Hey Stuart That hose clamp on the high pressure feed to the MU in the green car looks a bit suspect don't you think A potential hand Molotov cocktail I would have thought....
  8. Hi All. Now that I have my rebuilt gearbox back from the repairer I'm dealing to various issues that are easiest done while the box is still out. First on the list was a bolt through the clutch release fork and shaft. I used a 5.0 mm high tensile cap screw with a suitable length of plain shank and cut the thread to suit. I'm pretty happy with how that has worked out. The nut is secured with a lock washer and high strength threadlock. Next is to refit the OD unit extension to the GB. Previously I had used Loctite liquid thread tape to try and stop the oil from tracking along the bolts and under the heads. It was reasonably successful but seems to be the ambulance at the bottom of the cliff approach. At the other end of the extension are studs from the OD unit which appear to be secured in blind holes. This would be leak free with bolts rather than studs but the holes in the gearbox are open to the box interior. I'm now contemplating cutting down some bolts to make suitable studs for the GB end which I will threadlock into the casing after having cleaned them with solvent. In view of the fact that the OD and GB have to come out of the car as one unit can anyone foresee any potential issues with my plan? Gavin
  9. After reading this article I'm inclined to stick with the failure due to misalignment theory rather than torsional overload..... https://www.efficientplantmag.com/2012/07/failure-analysis-of-machine-shafts/
  10. Thanks Stuart, Roger and Neil for your comments. Just to be safe we'll go ahead with replacing the gearbox casing anyway. The old casing can remain with the car for any future owner should they want matching numbers. With regard to the shock loading from the OD on downshift, I noticed that just prior to the failure while I was running the car on my hoist with the new non-return valve fitted and filled with 75W80 semi-synthetic gear oil that the upshift was the smoothest I'd ever experienced. There was a slight delay after flicking the switch then engagement with no shock whatsoever. However, the down shift was the complete opposite, immediate and harsh! Is there a bleed down orifice or device that is out of spec and causing this? Gavin
  11. I think it was a bit of a fluke I managed to get mine out as I'm sure they are cast in place. Lots of heat input also as you say Mike. Hot over there today? We're been sweltering here all week at 24-26 degrees
  12. Sorry, but this is a follow-on from my harsh-shifting OD post that has been running for a wee while now. I though this was worthy of a new post because it's such an odd event. As I noted in that post, I lost all drive after having had the OD shifting in and out whilst the car was running on my hoist. The only suggestion that made sense was that the main-shaft had fractured and after removing the GB and OD (for a second time inside a couple of weeks - much quicker this time though!) that's exactly what I found. I'm no metallurgist (but I'm sure one of you is and will be able to confirm or correct my analysis) but the fracture appears to be relatively old with just a small section (the circle at 12 o'clock) remaining intact up to the time of failure. I'm presuming that the stepped nature of the original fracture combined with limited longitudinal play in the shaft allowed the gearbox to continue to function for quite a period. Anyway, I took the GB and OD to my repairer (I shipped it to him last time) and we discussed how this could possibly have happened as he'd never seen one fail in his 40 years of repairing them. THEN I showed him a weld repair on the back of the gearbox (centre rear of box just in front of the white cloth) and he immediately responded "that's most likely what's caused the failure". His view, which I have to agree with as I can think of no other feasible reason, is that the gearbox has been distorted by the weld repair causing the shaft to be forced to run out of alignment and eventually fracture at the circlip groove. Had I not taken the box to him and simply sourced the parts and rebuilt it myself the same failure would have most likely been repeated (scary!!!). Fortunately for me, he has plenty of spare gearbox casings and possibly a spare shaft (to be confirmed) to rebuild the box for me. Time will tell, but I have my suspicions that this fracture has been the source of the OD's harsh shifting all along......
  13. +1 I was able to remove the threaded portion using a threaded filter connection cut from the filter base and welded to a piece of flat steel to make a spanner with something else (can't remember what) to lock the thread. I then cleaned everything and reinstalled it using heavy duty thread locker with an extra 10 mm of thread protruding. It was quite long so plenty of thread to work with.
  14. I regularly use Hylomar Blue both sides of paper gaskets as I hate leaks and don't trust the gaskets on their own. Thermostat housing and water pump gaskets are both a definite for being coated in my view. The beauty of Hylomar is that it doesn't harden so the gaskets can be removed at a later date without damage .
  15. Not the solenoid unfortunately John (see above).
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