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About gloide69

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    West Yorkshire

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  1. Hi Yesterday, as the weather was good enough to work outside the garage, I started to prepare the chassis of my TR4 for painting. It's in really good condition, in comparison to the body, which I'm still repairing after nearly 12 months work. There is an ID plate on the front cross member, stamped with a clear "C" and a very faint "T", see picture Would I be correct in assuming I have a CTM replacement chassis? Thanks Paul
  2. Is there a chance the brake line can get hit by the bump stop, or is it just the angle of the photo?
  3. Thanks Peter I managed to get it out tonight, it was quite stubborn. The pin looks a little bent which probably explains the difficulty. Thanks Paul
  4. Hi I'm trying to remove the pin that secures the planet gear shaft into the differential carrier, of a TR4 Girling axle. It looks like the pin/carrier has been peened over at one end to secure the pin. I can move the pin a back a forth a few millimeters but it doesn't want to move any further. Before I get the big hammer out, I want to check if the pin can be knocked out from either side of the diff carrier or whether it will only come out one way. Is there a technique to get this pin out? Thanks Paul
  5. Thank You, I very nearly tidied this away with the grinder. Is the bump stop rare, or just that its not a listed part? Cheers Paul
  6. Hi I'm still doing lots of repairs to the body on my TR4, and now have it on its side to finish welding in the floors etc. Whilst working on the tunnel / heel board, I have a little extra metal on one side, see picture, is it a fastening feature for something?
  7. Hi As my restoration of my 1963 TR4 continues, I'm stripping down and removing the rear axle. The first thing I've noticed is that there is no drain plug on my my axle, so I'm presuming that it's not the original 63 axle. I've drained the oil, and not a lot came out, (it has been leaking from the pinion end). I looked through my WSM to see what should be in there, 1.5 pints, which is probably less than I expected. Does the oil find it way into the axle tubes and its waiting to run out on me when I remove the Hub and bearing carrier? I also read a note stated something lik
  8. gloide69

    Engine cut out

    The red wire also looks to be frayed or melted near to the module
  9. Some Progress, I've gone for the later type seat belt anchor plate, as my new B-Post Back was notched to accommodate it. I followed Stuart's advice and fitted the B-post back first and then the front, but it took me all day to get them close to fitting. I still need to work on the top and bottom of the front, where it fits with the sill and rear deck but I thought I'd try fitting he door latch to see if the door would close. Unfortunately the door hits the latch, as thought the B-Post is too close, but it can't go any further back. It looks to me as thought the depressions in th
  10. Thanks for the picture It was the picture of the part on the Rimmer Bros web site that is confusing me, as I can't see how this would fit. That said, I should be able to make something similar to do the job Thanks Paul
  11. Many Thanks for your advice, I'll get the parts (likely to be from Moss) and see how it goes. I have another question with regards the seat belt anchor at the bottom of the B-post / Inner wing. There is no evidence of these on my car (63 TR4), were they fitted to all models? I will be fitting belts, so I intend to make and add these mounts, do they fit similar to the TR6 like this: Thanks Paul
  12. Hi I think I need a replacement LH B-Post front as there is probably too much work to repair the existing one: I've read that the replacements are a poor fit and they are not that cheep Do they need much cutting etc to get the door to shut correctly? Thanks Paul
  13. Cheers Mick I think I will make one of these before I start. Did you use alloy as its easier to turn or to protect the liners? Paul
  14. I am in a similar situation with a seized TR4 engine. I tried a few weeks of penetrating oil down the bores and rocking the car in 4 gear. I also tried a breaker bar on the pulley bolt, but I was afraid of it snapping. I also removed the head and used a block of wood to hammer the pistons, but this did not not free it either. As I have the interior stripped out, I fastened a long length of square tube (about 4 foot) to the gearbox output flange and used this to lever the engine. Maybe it was just an accumulation of everything I'd done, but this is what got the engine moving. Putting the g
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