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About gloide69

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    West Yorkshire

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  1. Just wondering if you can use a thin tool to work the the lock plunger down. (similar to what they do in the films with a credit card and door locks) I guess this would only work though, if the plunger is not fixed in position when the lock is locked. (I'm assuming when locked it just stops the button being pushed) Paul
  2. Just a little extra bit of information to answer Rogers question The profile of the notch in the selector shafts matches that of the detent plungers. I thinks this confirms that the parts are correct and matched. I've put the reverse plunger back as it came apart and when the lever is fitted, it's a bit clunky compared to 3/4, but not too difficult to to select reverse Thanks Paul
  3. Is it possible for the driven nylon gear and the plate with the drive peg can be assembled 180deg out?
  4. Hi John Yes my parts are identical to yours, did you find any difficulty selecting reverse? Maybe I'll leave mine as it is and see what its like with the lever fitted. Cheers Paul
  5. I was using the Buckeye Triumphs Gearbox "Top Cover Overhaul" as a reference during my strip down and I noticed that the picture for the TR6 top cover detents, has the same profile, I therefore assumed that this plunger is a TR6 item. I also spotted that in the Moss catalogue the TR4 reverse plunger is part number 106481, but for the TR6 it's 136990. (Unfortunately there isn't a picture for this one). This made me think maybe someone has fitted the wrong part, but I guess it could still just be wear? Cheers Paul
  6. Hi I'm on to replacing the gearbox selector shaft O rings (a bit of a rest from body work). I made sure I was careful and not mixed up the various parts, bagging them as they were removed. All was going well, putting it back together, until setting the pull force on the reverse detent. With the retaining plug screwed flush with the casing, far too much force is require to move the reverse selector. I took the plunger out and examined it, and noticed that is different to the 3/4 plunger, with a flat (see picture) instead of being pointed. My gearbox is stamped CT22645, so I think the
  7. Thanks Stuart More cutting and welding for me :-) Paul
  8. Hi Can anyone help with a picture for how the top of the B-post, Inner wing and Rear Deck all come together. Both sides of my car have a hole, that I think should not be there. Here is a picture of the worst side, (probably because, I've have changed the B-post and deck forward section), it looks like the gusset is in the wrong place, I am considering modifying it to close and weld the hole up. Thanks Paul
  9. I went and bought a set of poly-bushes from Moss, and I thought I'd share how I fitted them to the upper arms. I struggled at first as they need a fair bit of pressure to get them started in the hole and with the grease they slipped around quite a bit and were difficult to constrain. I used a large socket to contain the bush as shown in the pictures, then if was fairly easy to get the bush started in the arm, once started they pushed home easily by hand. Cheers Paul
  10. Hi I'm just cleaning up and painting my front suspension parts, (1963 TR4), and I'm putting together a list of new bushes etc. I need to replace. The upper wishbone inner bushes I've removed are steel/nylon, I don't think this is standard? I'm considering of replacing these with poly-bushes, but would I still need the steel sleeve? Is there any advantage to keeping them nylon? Thanks Paul
  11. Hi Yesterday, as the weather was good enough to work outside the garage, I started to prepare the chassis of my TR4 for painting. It's in really good condition, in comparison to the body, which I'm still repairing after nearly 12 months work. There is an ID plate on the front cross member, stamped with a clear "C" and a very faint "T", see picture Would I be correct in assuming I have a CTM replacement chassis? Thanks Paul
  12. Is there a chance the brake line can get hit by the bump stop, or is it just the angle of the photo?
  13. Thanks Peter I managed to get it out tonight, it was quite stubborn. The pin looks a little bent which probably explains the difficulty. Thanks Paul
  14. Hi I'm trying to remove the pin that secures the planet gear shaft into the differential carrier, of a TR4 Girling axle. It looks like the pin/carrier has been peened over at one end to secure the pin. I can move the pin a back a forth a few millimeters but it doesn't want to move any further. Before I get the big hammer out, I want to check if the pin can be knocked out from either side of the diff carrier or whether it will only come out one way. Is there a technique to get this pin out? Thanks Paul
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