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About gloide69

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    West Yorkshire

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  1. Hi Andy I very recent ordered and fitted a 2 part cover from Racestorations, as other suppliers were out of stock. Although a little bit more expensive, I'm very happy with the fit. I did need to drill my own mounting holes, but I took this is a benefit, as then they lined with my car. Thanks Paul
  2. Hi Kevin I've just fitted my windscreen with the Moss rubber seal, it had the same green tag, It went in relatively easily but I reused the glass, so I knew it fitted into the frame. It was tight at the top corners, but it went in when the bottom edge (and corners) were correctly in. From you second picture it looks like the seal can come down a bit more, as I have only about 5mm gap between the screen seal and the frame seal. I'd also recommend fitting the chrome trim first, as it is very difficult to fit it once the screen is in. Thanks Paul
  3. I knew I should have gone with the later style B-post gussets.... I will give the suggestions a try, to see if I can get acceptable bends. If all else fails, then there is a plan B Thanks Paul
  4. Hi I need to replace the channel that the TR4 outer doors seal fits into, where I have repaired the B-post, sill and bottom of the A-post. I'm planning to fix the channel with rivets, but does anyone have any tips for shaping the channel round the bends etc. without distorting it? Thanks Paul
  5. It's looking better, hopefully another session with the lead will have it finished.
  6. After some initial setbacks, I'm starting to make some progress on my wing and am now about to tackle the front area. Before I start to make it fit to the grill etc, I noticed my bonnet gap widens towards the front and is a bit larger than I wound like (same on both sides). Is it possible to adjust this by bending the top of the inner wings? Cheers Paul
  7. I recently rebuilt my TR4 gearbox, and found that that 2nd gear top hat bush was broken. It was a fairly clean break and the bush wasn't siezed. I replaced it with a 1 piece steel version (from ORS). Is there any advantage to the 2 part version? Paul
  8. Hi David I would be interested in your hinges, if available. Thanks Paul
  9. Thanks for the encouragement etc. It sounds like it is doable, so I've decided to give it a go, nothing to lose really apart from a bit of time. (The hardest bit for me is getting started) I thought about the 2nd hand route, but from the photos I've seen, they all still need work and are typically a long distance away from me, to have a good look before buying. I guess this may be a Plan B though. Cheers Paul
  10. Hi I'm struggling with a decision on whether to start to try to repair my front wing, it needs a lot of work or buy a new replacement and try to get that to fit. Are the current replacements any better a fit? Thanks Paul
  11. Thanks Richard I'm getting myself confused about the lower stay rod. Moss are listing 2 parts 611834 for RHD and 611531 for LHD. I can't see why they would need to be different. The 611834 is as you describe with the 90deg bend on one end, and fitted as in your picture, I've just re-read the Revington info against this part and now things are becoming clearer: "Not available new, use second hand part 611834SH. This has one end turned at 90 degrees and is fitted to TR4, 4A, 5, 250 and early 6 between the bulkhead steering column support and the dash steering column support
  12. Thanks Stuart I think I have already fitted the stay you have described, item 35 in the above picture. To be honest these two rods looks very similar but the one I'm stuck with is longer. I was expecting it to fit underneath between the two column clamps, but it is too long for that. After looking a bit more, only place it looks to fit, is between the switch plinth bolt mounting hole, near the vent flap lever on the dash, and a hole in the side of the steering column mounting bracket on the bulkhead. But is this doesn't seem right? Thanks Paul
  13. Hi I'm refitting the upper steering column on my 1963 RHD TR4 and I need some help. The parts I have match the plate on the Revington website, (which is different to Moss). All seems simple but I can't remember or work out where the part 21 fits. Thanks Paul
  14. Well, it didn't take too long to get No.2 out to check, glad I did.
  15. Hi Mick Its had a complete strip and rebuild, one of the big-ends was rusted. Most parts are new but I have reused the liners (no wear ridge, just honed them) and pistons but with new rings. Pistons were +030 so I assumed they have been changed relatively recently. I also reused the valves (cleaned and reground). When the head came back, I did a quick check to see if the valves were leaking, filling the combustion chambers with petrol and all seems OK. I read the many guides about the liner heights, so I went through the pain. I had to use steel fo8 gaskets to get acceptable protrusi
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