Jump to content

gloide69

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About gloide69

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Yorkshire

Recent Profile Visitors

517 profile views
  1. After some initial setbacks, I'm starting to make some progress on my wing and am now about to tackle the front area. Before I start to make it fit to the grill etc, I noticed my bonnet gap widens towards the front and is a bit larger than I wound like (same on both sides). Is it possible to adjust this by bending the top of the inner wings? Cheers Paul
  2. I recently rebuilt my TR4 gearbox, and found that that 2nd gear top hat bush was broken. It was a fairly clean break and the bush wasn't siezed. I replaced it with a 1 piece steel version (from ORS). Is there any advantage to the 2 part version? Paul
  3. Hi David I would be interested in your hinges, if available. Thanks Paul
  4. Thanks for the encouragement etc. It sounds like it is doable, so I've decided to give it a go, nothing to lose really apart from a bit of time. (The hardest bit for me is getting started) I thought about the 2nd hand route, but from the photos I've seen, they all still need work and are typically a long distance away from me, to have a good look before buying. I guess this may be a Plan B though. Cheers Paul
  5. Hi I'm struggling with a decision on whether to start to try to repair my front wing, it needs a lot of work or buy a new replacement and try to get that to fit. Are the current replacements any better a fit? Thanks Paul
  6. Thanks Richard I'm getting myself confused about the lower stay rod. Moss are listing 2 parts 611834 for RHD and 611531 for LHD. I can't see why they would need to be different. The 611834 is as you describe with the 90deg bend on one end, and fitted as in your picture, I've just re-read the Revington info against this part and now things are becoming clearer: "Not available new, use second hand part 611834SH. This has one end turned at 90 degrees and is fitted to TR4, 4A, 5, 250 and early 6 between the bulkhead steering column support and the dash steering column support
  7. Thanks Stuart I think I have already fitted the stay you have described, item 35 in the above picture. To be honest these two rods looks very similar but the one I'm stuck with is longer. I was expecting it to fit underneath between the two column clamps, but it is too long for that. After looking a bit more, only place it looks to fit, is between the switch plinth bolt mounting hole, near the vent flap lever on the dash, and a hole in the side of the steering column mounting bracket on the bulkhead. But is this doesn't seem right? Thanks Paul
  8. Hi I'm refitting the upper steering column on my 1963 RHD TR4 and I need some help. The parts I have match the plate on the Revington website, (which is different to Moss). All seems simple but I can't remember or work out where the part 21 fits. Thanks Paul
  9. Well, it didn't take too long to get No.2 out to check, glad I did.
  10. Hi Mick Its had a complete strip and rebuild, one of the big-ends was rusted. Most parts are new but I have reused the liners (no wear ridge, just honed them) and pistons but with new rings. Pistons were +030 so I assumed they have been changed relatively recently. I also reused the valves (cleaned and reground). When the head came back, I did a quick check to see if the valves were leaking, filling the combustion chambers with petrol and all seems OK. I read the many guides about the liner heights, so I went through the pain. I had to use steel fo8 gaskets to get acceptable protrusi
  11. A bit of an update, but more advice needed: I had the head tested, but surprisingly it only needed a new core plug and 5 thou skimming of face. I've got the engine back in the car, but I'm not ready to run it yet (waiting on a exhaust and some fuel line), but being a little be curious, I decided to do a compression test. I'm a little disappointed with the results, No.1=3=4 at about 120psi, but No 2 is only getting approx 80psi. The crack was on No.1 so that is not an explanation. The question is whether this can be expected on a newly rebuilt engine and I should continue on
  12. Thanks Stuart, I think you have convinced me to stick with it. For my piece of mind, I'd like to check that my gearbox nose piece is OK for this setup, it's the same as the one on the right in the image below, the machined surface is approx. 2 1/4 long. (pic copied from the TR6 forum thread) Thanks Paul
  13. Hi My 1963 TR4 was fitted with what I believe is a TR4A Laycock clutch (diaphragm pressure plate). The fingers on the pressure plate are worn from the bearing and release bearing carrier has a chip out of the groove where the release fork runs. So I'm thinking of renewing the whole lot. Can I simply change back to the TR4 clutch parts? Or is it even worth it? Thanks Paul
  14. Hi The engine on my TR4 restoration project was seized, so I don't know whether it was a good runner when it was laid up circa 30 years ago. It is all in bits now and I'm starting to look at the head. It' a 511695 and after cleaning it up, I noticed what appears to be a crack between the inlet and exhaust ports on number 1 cylinder. I guess this means my hope to just lap in the valves, is over. It looks to me as thought the Exhaust valve seats already have an insert fitted, would getting new seat for the inlets, fix the problem. Thanks Paul
  15. Just wondering if you can use a thin tool to work the the lock plunger down. (similar to what they do in the films with a credit card and door locks) I guess this would only work though, if the plunger is not fixed in position when the lock is locked. (I'm assuming when locked it just stops the button being pushed) Paul
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.