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About gloide69

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  1. Well, it didn't take too long to get No.2 out to check, glad I did.
  2. Hi Mick Its had a complete strip and rebuild, one of the big-ends was rusted. Most parts are new but I have reused the liners (no wear ridge, just honed them) and pistons but with new rings. Pistons were +030 so I assumed they have been changed relatively recently. I also reused the valves (cleaned and reground). When the head came back, I did a quick check to see if the valves were leaking, filling the combustion chambers with petrol and all seems OK. I read the many guides about the liner heights, so I went through the pain. I had to use steel fo8 gaskets to get acceptable protrusi
  3. A bit of an update, but more advice needed: I had the head tested, but surprisingly it only needed a new core plug and 5 thou skimming of face. I've got the engine back in the car, but I'm not ready to run it yet (waiting on a exhaust and some fuel line), but being a little be curious, I decided to do a compression test. I'm a little disappointed with the results, No.1=3=4 at about 120psi, but No 2 is only getting approx 80psi. The crack was on No.1 so that is not an explanation. The question is whether this can be expected on a newly rebuilt engine and I should continue on
  4. Thanks Stuart, I think you have convinced me to stick with it. For my piece of mind, I'd like to check that my gearbox nose piece is OK for this setup, it's the same as the one on the right in the image below, the machined surface is approx. 2 1/4 long. (pic copied from the TR6 forum thread) Thanks Paul
  5. Hi My 1963 TR4 was fitted with what I believe is a TR4A Laycock clutch (diaphragm pressure plate). The fingers on the pressure plate are worn from the bearing and release bearing carrier has a chip out of the groove where the release fork runs. So I'm thinking of renewing the whole lot. Can I simply change back to the TR4 clutch parts? Or is it even worth it? Thanks Paul
  6. Hi The engine on my TR4 restoration project was seized, so I don't know whether it was a good runner when it was laid up circa 30 years ago. It is all in bits now and I'm starting to look at the head. It' a 511695 and after cleaning it up, I noticed what appears to be a crack between the inlet and exhaust ports on number 1 cylinder. I guess this means my hope to just lap in the valves, is over. It looks to me as thought the Exhaust valve seats already have an insert fitted, would getting new seat for the inlets, fix the problem. Thanks Paul
  7. Just wondering if you can use a thin tool to work the the lock plunger down. (similar to what they do in the films with a credit card and door locks) I guess this would only work though, if the plunger is not fixed in position when the lock is locked. (I'm assuming when locked it just stops the button being pushed) Paul
  8. Just a little extra bit of information to answer Rogers question The profile of the notch in the selector shafts matches that of the detent plungers. I thinks this confirms that the parts are correct and matched. I've put the reverse plunger back as it came apart and when the lever is fitted, it's a bit clunky compared to 3/4, but not too difficult to to select reverse Thanks Paul
  9. Is it possible for the driven nylon gear and the plate with the drive peg can be assembled 180deg out?
  10. Hi John Yes my parts are identical to yours, did you find any difficulty selecting reverse? Maybe I'll leave mine as it is and see what its like with the lever fitted. Cheers Paul
  11. I was using the Buckeye Triumphs Gearbox "Top Cover Overhaul" as a reference during my strip down and I noticed that the picture for the TR6 top cover detents, has the same profile, I therefore assumed that this plunger is a TR6 item. I also spotted that in the Moss catalogue the TR4 reverse plunger is part number 106481, but for the TR6 it's 136990. (Unfortunately there isn't a picture for this one). This made me think maybe someone has fitted the wrong part, but I guess it could still just be wear? Cheers Paul
  12. Hi I'm on to replacing the gearbox selector shaft O rings (a bit of a rest from body work). I made sure I was careful and not mixed up the various parts, bagging them as they were removed. All was going well, putting it back together, until setting the pull force on the reverse detent. With the retaining plug screwed flush with the casing, far too much force is require to move the reverse selector. I took the plunger out and examined it, and noticed that is different to the 3/4 plunger, with a flat (see picture) instead of being pointed. My gearbox is stamped CT22645, so I think the
  13. Thanks Stuart More cutting and welding for me :-) Paul
  14. Hi Can anyone help with a picture for how the top of the B-post, Inner wing and Rear Deck all come together. Both sides of my car have a hole, that I think should not be there. Here is a picture of the worst side, (probably because, I've have changed the B-post and deck forward section), it looks like the gusset is in the wrong place, I am considering modifying it to close and weld the hole up. Thanks Paul
  15. I went and bought a set of poly-bushes from Moss, and I thought I'd share how I fitted them to the upper arms. I struggled at first as they need a fair bit of pressure to get them started in the hole and with the grease they slipped around quite a bit and were difficult to constrain. I used a large socket to contain the bush as shown in the pictures, then if was fairly easy to get the bush started in the arm, once started they pushed home easily by hand. Cheers Paul
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