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ctc77965o

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ctc77965o last won the day on January 26

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About ctc77965o

  • Birthday 07/29/1966

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    http://www.tr4a.com
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    splonksville

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  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

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  1. Use a Lucas C48 out of a Jag or RR combined with a RB340 control box, good for 35 amps. You may need a stiffer spring on the right front corner to prevent your TR being lopsided....
  2. I am sure you will get many responses about owners and engines being happy with regular changes...but the important data point would be the case of engine damage caused by *not* changing the oil. I have an (abused) Alfa Spider , didn't change the oil between 1995 and 2009, driven intermittently over this period...no issue. You will find discussions online about driving with no oil, which obviously causes immediate heat- and lube- related damage...but old oil?? Fewer stories.. especially low mileage old oils.. https://jalopnik.com/i-found-out-what-happens-when-you-dont-change-your-oil-1762314484 The oil itself wont't "go bad": it's full of antioxidants and stabilisers to protect it from damage at operating temps...at cool temps these additives will protect the oil for many tens of years, especially with limited exposure to oxygen inside the engine. So, as long as the oil has seen 'proper' usage cycles, running up to operating temperatures (meaning not loaded with water and combustion products due to short start-stop cycles), I expect you'll be ok with 5 year/5000 mile intervals with no damage. You could monitor this with oil analysis as in the above link, to ensure the oil/engine is really happy.
  3. You can see what the alt is doing to your battery by putting a voltmeter across the battery...it should rise from 12.x to 13.8V after starting the car, and it should not exceed 14 even at 3000rpm. If it's going higher that will fry your battery, maybe enough to boil it and wreck your bulkhead with acid...certainly will kill one cell. Your friendly autoelectical rebuilder will be able to make it nice again.
  4. could be a unusual bend in the speedo cable..has it been disturbed during maintenance?
  5. wheel rotation frequency or propshaft frequency (~4x faster)?
  6. I've driving a TR4A 30 years with standard PCV setup, no issues. Suggest you look for 'root cause': if something is overwhelming the breather then any plumbing fix is just masking your underlying defect
  7. dunno, but you could always weigh them..even using a crude balance made out of a steel rule and a pencil
  8. Only to the metal, it would be nice to mount them into the wood, but materials are too thick and its not possible.
  9. Hi, not sure I understand: what does "drums feel like they are square" mean? " it also causes issues with the handbrake": what issue? Does it do same in reverse? Is the master cylinder in good condition?
  10. http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/index.html how to spot a fake NGK
  11. Gong Xi Fa Cai!

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  13. Just change the gasket, as Roger says don't turn the engine while the head is off. Skimming the head is optional and stripping/rebuilding the head also optional.... Beware mission creep.. that's why I say just do the gasket and then get the car ready for spring...
  14. can you select reverse without a crunch? if not then that points to clutch disengagement being the issue
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