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About ctc77965o

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  • Birthday 07/29/1966

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  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

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  1. I am driving a standard TR4A in Malaysia, ambient 30-32C, afternoon temperatures melting tarmac. I have original mechanical fan only, no shroud...not even the tropical fan ...just the 4blade metal contraption. Never boils, sits just past halfway on the gauge most of the time...will inch towards the red in afternoon traffic but never into the red and never burping water onto the floor (std expansion bottle). My advice above from my BMW 2002 experience...with air-conditioning so much more heat load. Denso fan, 80A alternator.
  2. Put a sender unit in the hose somewhere https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45mm-x-80mm-Hose-Joiner-M12-X-1-5-Boss-Adaptor-Water-Temp-Sensor-Sender-1-3-4/184379273578?hash=item2aeddc716a:g:DUMAAOSwlWJde9MQ Buy a branded automotive grade fan: Denso, Marelli, Valeo etc Fabricate a mount & a shroud Make sure you have enough Amps to run the fan...it could be drawing ~40 Amps
  3. I tried ORS, they don't have this part for sale :-(
  4. Hi All, My friend here in Malaysia restoring an early TR2 has just opened-up the overdrive to find the reason the car was laid-up 30+ years back...the sunwheel is toast. This part seems to be the common damage from the reverse-with-overdrive-engaged scenario. Any chance anyone out there has this part they might sell??
  5. As Roger says, 1 litre enough. Since it doesnt absorb water, there's little reason to not recycle the bled fluid...just wait for the jam jar to clear & pour the clean-looking stuff back in the master cyl...I am no fan of DOT5, but that does seem to be one advantage...recyclability.... :-)
  6. Sames true for humans... But there's a long way to go before cars are safe to eat..
  7. is the speaker(s) the right Ohms? maybe the output protection is kicking-in?
  8. Try Castor Oil, fully compatible with DOT4 & rubber, used by Castrol in their RR363 fluid formulation for rolls royces.
  9. cut it open, clean the 2 halves and weld it back...common practice here
  10. Volts is a good indicator...use a voltmeter on a ~20V DC scale...your battery and headlamps are sufficient load to ensure the voltages are meaningful. At 3200 revs you should have 13.8V measured at the battery...if you have that then the alternator and wiring are good. If you see a number greater than ~14.2 V then that is a concern about either wiring or alternator health, similarly numbers under 13V indicate that the system is not charging (could be alternator, could be wiring).
  11. TR4A engine numbers are CTxxxxx Chassis numbers CTCxxxxx It's normal/correct...no worries
  12. Something not right with your alternator if you see 15.4 at the battery, that will cook the battery (potentially literally overheating it) you want 13.8 for a lead-acid, potentially going as high as low 14.x, but never 15. The B wire should go staight to the battery, this B/sense wire is important to prevent overcharge. If you still have 15.4 in that situation then sounds like regulator in alternator is fried. I cannot comment on the ammeter without a wiring diagram, but these are hardy instruments, i doubt you could damage it unless it got wired in series with the starter. In any case, y
  13. Beware that fitting a larger alternator may activate the occurrence of a Simple Momentary Olfactory Knowledge Event , which Triumph & Lucas developed in the 1950's and licenced to all british car manufacturers.
  14. Thanks all for the info, I will pass-on to the brave restorer
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