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ctc77965o

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ctc77965o last won the day on January 26

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About ctc77965o

  • Rank
    Dave
  • Birthday 07/29/1966

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    http://www.tr4a.com
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    splonksville

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  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

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  1. Check if your long pedal problem goes away when the handbrake is on... If it does it confirms that pullback of the rear shoes is giving the long pedal.
  2. There's something wrong with the carburettor.
  3. Honestly it seems a little OTT to try to test this system before it's fully assembled...I dunno how long it's gonna take you to put the rest of the car together but I would imagine that the brake lines being wet with fluid will create its own problems. But if you really wanna do it you'll need a grease gun or other hydraulic pump plus a t piece with a 3000psi gauge... Pump the fluid through, bleed everything then pump it up to 2000psi and leave it 30 mins.
  4. If you use a proper assembly lube then whatever oil you use will be flooded with ZDDP during initial startup thru first change...that's the period that's most important to bed-in the cam. So, I believe the Zinc spec of the engine oil is not so important. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/motocycle/greases/cam-assembly-lube#/
  5. You said it's variable, sometimes longer travel than others. I would suspect the small seal at the end of the master cylinder. This seal blocks the reservoir supply at initial movement of brake pedal, allowing pressure to build in the mcyl. If this seal is damaged or if the sealing surface compromised then it leaks for a while as the pedal moves...giving long pedal. I had this...it was worse when hot...took a long time to find that this tiny seal (about 1/4 inch dia) had a split and performed worse as it got hot.
  6. What makes you think it's ignition? Sounds like a carb mixture issue, too weak... When it's missing does it improve if you momentarily pull the choke a long way?? If yes it proves weak mixture.
  7. This is normal old-age failure mode, once the case hardening is breached the follower degrades rapidly. Use a good engine assembly lube and a high zinc old -fashioned oil when you run it in. Don't idle it once started, get it up to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 5-10 mins. Then you'll be good for another 100kmiles. Beware scope-creep, it's important to get the engine back together for summer... Hardened valve seats can wait for a burnt valve later.....I am still waiting after 30yrs
  8. Thanks Roger .. a crank is available new...but $$$$cary...still seeking that XPAG in the bottom of someones garden shed..
  9. All, using this channel to search for MG advice...not my area of knowledge.. A friend here has a 1948 MG TC, been in Malaysia from new. It's just had the last life squeezed out of its engine and requires a complete rebuild including a new crank...the old one being way undersize and in a terrible state. Question is: anyone know a source of used Tseries spares?
  10. Hi Brian, I drove my 4A until the cam had no exhaust lobe at all (i didnt realise at the time). I was on a road trip across Malaysia, looking back there was a symptom...it lacked full power and at full throttle it made a funny noise...at the time it thought is was a belt problem. As the cam degraded the noise started to happen at any application of power...i thought it was a burnt valve. On hills the car made a deep thumping noise, like a heavy gun, clearly startling other motorists. The noise was the combustion products of No4 being forced back out of the inlet valve/manifold/carb as the exhaust was not opening to any extent. Back home I changed the cam in the car, not so difficult...certainly not worth removing the engine just to change the cam. Some will say the engine needs a complete strip because its full of metal that was ground off the cam... I just changed the cam, followers, head gasket & oil+filter...I cleaned the 'fur' off the magnetic sump plug. Engine runs fine, have done many thousands of KM since, including runs to singapore (750km) with no issues...these old tractor engines are tough, even when full of metal filings. is yours an exhaust or inlet lobe failure?
  11. The grease gun works, make an adaptor by drilling / tapping a brake union to take a grease nipple...needs to be a strong adaptor...if the piston is really stuck you might be pumping to thousands of PSI. It's very safe as the grease is virtually incompressible, so when something pops the pressure drops to zero instantly and you are left with oozing grease. Better to do this and deal with the mess rather than risk damage by trying mechanical extraction methods.
  12. Yes on a 4A they are bolted together, the 4A manifold will eventually crack if not properly supported.
  13. Sounds like the air valve is sticky or you've got a vacuum leak.
  14. Hi FCC John, Thanks for the update and reaching some understanding with the "MT", whatever that is. As the forum never sleeps I suggest you ensure your moderators cover all major timezones rather than focusing on geography, dave
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