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ctc77965o

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ctc77965o last won the day on January 26

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About ctc77965o

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    http://www.tr4a.com
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    splonksville

Profile Information

  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

Recent Profile Visitors

534 profile views
  1. Welcome to the 'upgrade spiral'....
  2. google seems to know the car
  3. I've been driving my 4A (orig specced with wire wheels) 25years 150kmiles with TR6 steel wheels on short studs with standard wheel nuts. Never had any wheels lost or studs pulled or whatever. Just one data point for your consideration.
  4. Is it the original chassis plate?
  5. Chris, 5.1 is not compatible with 5 5.1 is compatible with 4 & 3 Crazy, huh?
  6. Peter, be very careful with silicone leak in a servo...cost me an engine rebuild already...
  7. Silicone oils are miscible in hydrocarbon solvents... So I suggest wash the metal brake lines with Xylene/Toluene or if you can't find those, Kerosene... Then afterwards wash through with methylated spirits and blow dry. The rubber seals and hoses will quickly degrade in said hydrocarbons but since you say you plan to replace them should be OK.
  8. ctc77965o

    Tanked

    Back in the day I could pull a car out of years of storage and it would start up with fresh battery. With modern fuels even one year of storage and there is a lot of corrosion...metal fuel lines furred-up, brass carb parts green with corrosion, sender units knackered. I would go through the whole supply line, new rubber, rod-out the hard lines..check the carb float bowls, jets and needles.
  9. Yes it's a mix of oil and water...and you know they don't mix..but if you do agitate an oil/water mix enough or add some "surfactant" (soap) then the oil forms little "micelles" in the water...these are sub-micron size and because the oil and water have different optical refractive indices these tiny structure interact with light causing broadband scattering... This is what makes that gunge (and mayonaisse and milk) look white... If you heat the gunge the water will evaporate and you'll be left with oil..
  10. I have this on my 4A, take a TR6 frame, drill-out two rivets holding the front frame rail ...extract old front framerail from 4A hoodframe, bolt 4A framerail onto 6 hoodframe and fit a TR6 hood with velcro, zip-out rear window etc etc. Marginally quieter and drier than the orig 4A one.
  11. Could it be a simple as the crank bolt being loose and the pulley/fan extension rattling on the woodruff key? I am always thinking that todays problem is the result of what we did yesterday...and since you have changed the Alt/Dyn that must be somehow the cause...weird that a timing chain tensioner would suddenly fail...did you turn the engine backwards?? that can kill the spring if its on its last legs...
  12. Any 'witness marks' on that alt fan? is one blade hitting something (maybe the tensioner bolt/bracket) in the installed setup?
  13. I have seen people fit child seats in TR4/5/6 on the rear shelf secured using the handy pickup points/bolts under the rear deck. The only disadvantage of this approach is that the kid is effectively bolted to the petrol tank.
  14. That filler plate is on all the michelotti TRs TR4/4A/5/250
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