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ctc77965o last won the day on January 26 2019

ctc77965o had the most liked content!

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About ctc77965o

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  • Birthday 07/29/1966

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  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

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  1. I am sure you'll get many responses concerning lubrication & foaming and other technicalities...but i have a simple human factor for you...use anything but EP90 because EP90 stinks and your gearbox will leak (they all leak) and EP90 on the hot gearbox casing or, worse still, on the exhaust will give your car a special aroma that will avoid issues with insects & animals but also frighten children and cause WAGs to develop headaches and alternative plans...
  2. I found a friends AH3000 had a yellow plastic assymetric fan that look identical to the BMW one... seems its available as a tropical upgrade on healeys... then this (designed for TR6, so must fit a 4A somehow): http://www.mossmotoring.com/cooling-the-handsome-brute-with-the-texas-kooler/
  3. It's a standard Saginaw power steering pump & the rack seals you'll get from any local hydraulic shop.
  4. Do you have gears selected? If you select two gears at one time (eg 1st & reverse) the box is locked solid
  5. Kerosene or Diesel, soak 'em for a couple of weeks.
  6. ctc77965o


    On most cars this symptom is caused by rear brake shoe travel: the springs slowly pull back the rear shoes creating the long pedal on next application. Any easy way to prove this is to apply handbrake, if the long pedal problem goes away it proves its pull-back of the shoes... in that case check for worn drums (they are cheap), worn shoes or wonky adjusters. My early 70's BMWs have a residual pressure valve in the rear brake line to stop this pullback and extend service interval on the brakes. If thats ruled-out then switch to master cylinder as suspect - especially the little rubber seal on the end of the piston assembly (or it's seat)...if that leaks then pressure bleeds back into the Mcyl reservoir...symptom of this is 'swirl' in the reservoir as the brake pedal is pressed.
  7. All, Owning 3 BMW 2002 i recognise that fan as the standard fan for the BMW M10 engine. The asymmetric blade arrangement IS balanced, it prevents beating frequencies - regular blade arrangements will always have resonant frequencies and this design avoids that . Rolls Royce metal fans of the 50's and 60's were also assymetric: For your info BMW offered 2 fans for the '02 range, the one seen in the pics above and a larger 'tropical' version which pulls more air...its the tropical one I use here in Malaysia. Both fans still available from BMW...as is most of the rest of a BMW2002...not bad for a 50+ year old design.
  8. Hi Todd, Sorry i may be causing confusion, as said i only know a later design (adjustable needle) Stromberg. This is the enrichment device of a 175CD2, from my jaguar Have you got some pic or exploded diagram of the parts you are talking about? its an adjustable jet design, and you are saying the jets are at different heights?
  9. Hi Todd, certainly seems like there something wrong with the rear carb... does your fuel pump have a manual priming lever? if yes, take the top, spring and piston/diaphragm out of the rear carb and then look at the jet whilst operating the fuel pump....no fuel should come out...you should just see the fuel sitting near the top of the jet. if it flows out then there something wrong with the float or needle valve. I dont know how the choke/enrichment works on a ZS CD, my experience only with the later CDSE2 - but on those its possible to fit the enrichment disk 180 degrees out and that will make it too rich. Needles level with face of piston is a good starting point. is the height of the jet relative to the bridge the same in both carbs?
  10. In my experience, if you hit a bump in the road with any significant load on that type of rack it will shatter your (mazak) boot hinges. It's a nice idea but the boot hinges were never designed for this load.
  11. Todd, For rough initial setup always adjust mixture in both carbs the same...only when tuning once it's already running well should you tweak individual carbs. Are you sure there's no vacuum leaks? Is basic ignition timing set? Is the idle hiss at both carbs same? Do both throttles open together? If all these are ok, then is the choke operating as it should? Not stuck half-on when you errrrm push the knob in? After a short misfiring run what to spark plugs look like??
  12. Vacuum impregnation is normal for all new automotive castings...its why (to a significant extent) cars dont leak oil anymore. I doubt it would work well on a used casting as it's impossible to clean those porous areas...but if its not too expensive then why not try...
  13. If you DIY, which I fully support - it's just flat plates to weld on - make sure there's drainage points...don't weld-up an initially-strong rust-trap
  14. The best chassis media is a mixture of loose gravel and sand kicked-up from a rear wheel mid corner...much more fun than the workshop
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