Jump to content

ctc77965o

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    562
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

ctc77965o last won the day on January 26

ctc77965o had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About ctc77965o

  • Rank
    Dave
  • Birthday 07/29/1966

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.tr4a.com
  • ICQ
    0
  • Skype
    splonksville

Profile Information

  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

Recent Profile Visitors

509 profile views
  1. I stick the gasket to the rocker cover (after giving the sealing surface a good clean) then lightly oil the head surface to stop the gasket sticking there. Now when I remove the rocker cover the fragile gasket/cover can be safely placed out of harms why whilst i fumble with my feeler gauges around the engine..
  2. Stick battery volts on the F wire to the dynamo, with engine running should see full charge on ammeter. If not wiring or dynamo is faulty.. If yes then cutout in control box is dirty... Clean cutout contacts with fine abrasive, be sure to clean the debris from the abrasive out.. Now should see charge on ammeter.
  3. No, it does not. Its heavily stabilised to operate in churning air/oxygen at high temperatures for many years... So sitting in a cold stationary gearbox it will last decades.
  4. At 1000 miles/yr i think that changing it once every 25years would be on the safe side, for most of these cars lives the gearbox oil was never changed and they worked just fine.
  5. ctc77965o

    Misfire

    Worn cam? Clearance is correct but valve not opening??
  6. The AC specialists say its best to have a small compressor working hard rather than a large compressor idling. This is especially true for Stuart's point: the cycling on/off of the compressor clutch can really drag the revs down...back in the day there were two fixes: a little solenoid that cracked open the throttle or bled some extra air or the Rolls Royce approach of ensuring the compressor was on all the time and the engine idle setup accordingly. So in short, find a small compressor....even a sanden SD5 is too much for a stable idle on a 4 cyl 2 litre....and a larger SD7 will cycle revs 500-1500...
  7. Check if your long pedal problem goes away when the handbrake is on... If it does it confirms that pullback of the rear shoes is giving the long pedal.
  8. There's something wrong with the carburettor.
  9. Honestly it seems a little OTT to try to test this system before it's fully assembled...I dunno how long it's gonna take you to put the rest of the car together but I would imagine that the brake lines being wet with fluid will create its own problems. But if you really wanna do it you'll need a grease gun or other hydraulic pump plus a t piece with a 3000psi gauge... Pump the fluid through, bleed everything then pump it up to 2000psi and leave it 30 mins.
  10. If you use a proper assembly lube then whatever oil you use will be flooded with ZDDP during initial startup thru first change...that's the period that's most important to bed-in the cam. So, I believe the Zinc spec of the engine oil is not so important. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/motocycle/greases/cam-assembly-lube#/
  11. You said it's variable, sometimes longer travel than others. I would suspect the small seal at the end of the master cylinder. This seal blocks the reservoir supply at initial movement of brake pedal, allowing pressure to build in the mcyl. If this seal is damaged or if the sealing surface compromised then it leaks for a while as the pedal moves...giving long pedal. I had this...it was worse when hot...took a long time to find that this tiny seal (about 1/4 inch dia) had a split and performed worse as it got hot.
  12. What makes you think it's ignition? Sounds like a carb mixture issue, too weak... When it's missing does it improve if you momentarily pull the choke a long way?? If yes it proves weak mixture.
  13. This is normal old-age failure mode, once the case hardening is breached the follower degrades rapidly. Use a good engine assembly lube and a high zinc old -fashioned oil when you run it in. Don't idle it once started, get it up to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 5-10 mins. Then you'll be good for another 100kmiles. Beware scope-creep, it's important to get the engine back together for summer... Hardened valve seats can wait for a burnt valve later.....I am still waiting after 30yrs
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.