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ctc77965o

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ctc77965o last won the day on January 26

ctc77965o had the most liked content!

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About ctc77965o

  • Rank
    Dave
  • Birthday 07/29/1966

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.tr4a.com
  • ICQ
    0
  • Skype
    splonksville

Profile Information

  • Location
    George Town, Malaysia
  • Cars Owned:
    anything with "umph" in it

Recent Profile Visitors

565 profile views
  1. The best chassis media is a mixture of loose gravel and sand kicked-up from a rear wheel mid corner...much more fun than the workshop
  2. There's two sizes, a small one for ricerockets and this larger style for proper radiators. Yes 0.9 bar is higher than spec, but it works fine for me.
  3. I use one of these...syphons fine and tells me whats going-on when i stop believing the gauge https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Racing-Truck-Thermostat-Radiator-Cap-Cover-Water-Temp-Gauge-0-9-Bar/143329669515?hash=item215f1d318b:g:euAAAOSwDipdLCHV
  4. Alan, I vote leave it alone... if you start scraping away then there will be no end to it...the underlying paint will be damaged by the scraping and then you are in respray territory... Old underseal goes hard...suggest you overcoat it with a wax-based product...something like Waxoyl...that will have the effect of protecting any cracking and also plasticising/softening the original underseal to stop it cracking further. If the car is in good condition just protect it...dont start picking away at it...otherwise it will end up in pieces and never as original as it is today. Dave
  5. ctc77965o

    Clutch

    Old clutch better quality, if it ain't broken....
  6. Welcome to the 'upgrade spiral'....
  7. google seems to know the car
  8. I've been driving my 4A (orig specced with wire wheels) 25years 150kmiles with TR6 steel wheels on short studs with standard wheel nuts. Never had any wheels lost or studs pulled or whatever. Just one data point for your consideration.
  9. Is it the original chassis plate?
  10. Chris, 5.1 is not compatible with 5 5.1 is compatible with 4 & 3 Crazy, huh?
  11. Peter, be very careful with silicone leak in a servo...cost me an engine rebuild already...
  12. Silicone oils are miscible in hydrocarbon solvents... So I suggest wash the metal brake lines with Xylene/Toluene or if you can't find those, Kerosene... Then afterwards wash through with methylated spirits and blow dry. The rubber seals and hoses will quickly degrade in said hydrocarbons but since you say you plan to replace them should be OK.
  13. ctc77965o

    Tanked

    Back in the day I could pull a car out of years of storage and it would start up with fresh battery. With modern fuels even one year of storage and there is a lot of corrosion...metal fuel lines furred-up, brass carb parts green with corrosion, sender units knackered. I would go through the whole supply line, new rubber, rod-out the hard lines..check the carb float bowls, jets and needles.
  14. Yes it's a mix of oil and water...and you know they don't mix..but if you do agitate an oil/water mix enough or add some "surfactant" (soap) then the oil forms little "micelles" in the water...these are sub-micron size and because the oil and water have different optical refractive indices these tiny structure interact with light causing broadband scattering... This is what makes that gunge (and mayonaisse and milk) look white... If you heat the gunge the water will evaporate and you'll be left with oil..
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