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I would really recommend considering the modern style IGBT inverter welders: They support MIG, TIG and Arc welding of steel or aluminium in a single compact device. They normally have a smart set of user controls where it pre-selects powers and feed rates automatically based on what info you put in: on mine i input MIG, Steel, 3mm with CO2 and it selects all the settings and provides a visual guide to configuration of the transformer outputs..... very neat. The IGBTs provide power control that makes welding easy: the transformer output is very stable, making it easy for non-expert

Pull the king lead off the dizzy cap and see if you get a spark from that lead held close to earth when cranking. If yes then your problem is rotor arm, if no then either the coil or the trigger unit is suspect.

Greetings from Xiamen! Just did a double take on this auto brand: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trumpchi They have a GA6 model that's nothing like a TR6

1) Bad Condensor - test by substituting a known good one 2) weak mixture - test by pulling choke out an inch or so & see if problem goes away 3) Tight valve clearances giving poor compression when hot

overnight I received an email from 'office' (no proper sender) and titled 'Membership Renewal' . It says system is down and then gives a payment link to an external website. Its not individually addressed and there's no sign-off or email signature. smells bad.

Yes I have used to revive my Rolls Royce windscreen... messy but effective... use duct tape and split binliners to prevent the abrasive paste getting into your car/workshop etc... use a whiteboard marker on the inside of the screen to mark any particular areas that need attention, as once the screen is covered in the cerium oxide paste you cant see much of the outside screen... using a pad mounted in a drill is OK for small areas, but for larger areas probably better to use a polisher...a bit more ergonomic. For me it completely removed wipe abrasion and other small scuffs, screen functions

These engines are a 1940s design, happy to work on dinosaur oil... you need some zinc, just like the oils in the '60s had. A hi-tech modern oil is wasted on these old engines. For all my cars i use branded diesel engine oils.. they are much cheaper, widely available in 5 litre and 18-20 litre sizes, lots of detergent and no 'catalyst compliance'. Search for API CF4/SG 20W50 oils, i see a variety in the UK - 65 UKP for 20 Litres

Here's my car at the 'Penang Round Island Rally' earlier this month... no so often we get this view of our cars.

A few years back, via a fellow forum member, i was able to acquire a Judson Supercharger designed for a TR3 but which should fit a TR4/4A. It was in well-used/damaged condition with the casting broken and the bearing at one end seized. For the last few years its sat in my parts bin whilst i sought a skilled welder to fix the casting...luckily I recently discovered a Aluminium TIG welding specialist here who concentrates on repair of engine parts....so that has triggered me to get moving and restore the Judson before fitting it to my car. I dont know if this is accid

1600km in 4 days, TR4A pulled strong the whole trip, only the wiper motor let down perfect reliability. Others weren't so lucky: 62 Tbird : dead starter 85 Merc: overheated 61 MGA: overheating 53 XK120: small fuel fire Not bad for a bunch of old clunkers battling equatorial heat.

More than 1200km so far this weekend, TR goes fine despite the temp gauge spending some time offscale when queueing at Singapore border. Wiper motor expired in heavy rain on freeway, but at 110kmh screen stays clear. So far great fun, despite the first rain after 2 months drought. Some pics at twitter @msvcr

You are welcome to join us!!