1965 TR4A progress and restoration

[Jase]

19 hours ago, Ransomes256 said:

Jase,

This is the same as my lift but currently out of stock.

http://www.sjrgarageequipment.co.uk/mid-rise-scissor-lift-narrow-model/

Neil

 

 

Thanks Neil, I've just dropped them a message, I discounted this one as it always seems to be not in stock.

Jason

[Jase]

Still on the lifts, would this be a better choice for smaller classic cars? Would be easier to use, just drive straight on to it?

 

https://automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7530d-garage-scissor-lift/

 

[Motorsport Mickey]

The Automotech 7530d is a good choice, very similar scissor lift to my Strongman Clifton with similar lifts and performance but about £800 cheaper.

Mick Richards

[Jase]

Thanks Mick, I don't need anything too industrial as it's strictly a hobby but I do spend a lot of time in the garage  I think this may save a lot of messing about underneath moving forward. Do you have any problems with the car grounding out on the ramps? Before you dropped them into the floor?

Thanks

[Motorsport Mickey]

The folded ramp height from floor on the Strongman is 110mm (I think the same for the Automotech) which with the TR ride height I was running at, was just too high to drive over comfortably and park with wheels either side.

You can of course place some timber either side of the advance and depart ramps either side to park on, I did try with my Stag with some 50mm planks, and the drive over was ok carried out carefully, and the car parked over the ramps. But even with the wider Stag overall width, there was enough folded ramp sticking out either side of the car to give a serious trip hazard. From memory there's a gap between ramps of 820mm plus 500 ramp width either side so 1820 mm across ramp width.

I tend to get absorbed, and you naturally walk around the perimeter of the the car close to the wings without looking, and after ending on the floor a couple of times decided dropping it into the floor was worth it. I marked around both ramps giving about 10mm clearance all round making a square out of it, my on site builder only charged me £150 and it took a couple of days. Typical 1930s semi with garage has about 100mm concrete floor (drilled mine first to find hardcore coming up at about 110mm) so he cut the ramp profile squared out into the floor with a stihl saw and made 3 or 4 slits across it. Then Kango hammered the interior out (took about 1/2 a day), then dug out the hardcore below enough so it would take the 110 mm of ramp space with further 150mm of concrete with rebar below it. The result works well.

Fill in between the ramps with 18mm ply on a substantial frame and good enough to walk on, but NO jacking in that area.

Mick Richards

[Jase]

Also found this lift:

https://twinbusch.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=13

Anyone bought this one? Looks more robust than the others?

[Motorsport Mickey]

Err... No. Compare the framing thickness on the ramp cruciform legs and the bottom "cassette" trays that the ramps fold into, and the single action ram expansion which means the ramps will "describe an arc" moving the car in the direction of travel, against the hinged arrangement which lifts the ramp and car vertically on both the Strongman Clifton (acknowledged as the quality mid rise scissor) and the Automotech 7530.

Not saying anything about the Twinbusch product it may be quite adequate for your needs but no, it's not the same quality, just similar and cheaper.

Mick Richards

Edited December 30, 2022 by Motorsport Mickey

[Jase]

6 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Err... No. Compare the framing thickness on the ramp cruciform legs and the bottom "cassette" trays that the ramps fold into, and the single action ram expansion which means the ramps will "describe an arc" moving the car in the direction of travel, against the hinged arrangement which lifts the ramp and car vertically on both the Strongman Clifton (acknowledged as the quality mid rise scissor) and the Automotech 7530.

Not saying anything about the Twinbusch product it may be quite adequate for your needs but no, it's not the same quality, just similar and cheaper.

Mick Richards

Thanks Mick, so between the two automotech and twinbusch, the automotech is the design to go for? The Strongman Clifton is a little more than I want to spend.

[Jase]

Time to dust off the 4A today and pull her out of the garage, fluid change before I use her properly and that will have to wait until the Spitfire is off the newly aquired ramps.

[Jase]

Going to stick with the paper oil filter at the moment. Having never bought a purolator oil filter before is this correct?

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GFE104K

I'm guessing that they supply both seals just incase.

 

Thanks

[Bfg]

I bought a Classic Gold  GFE104 (no 'K' suffix on number on the box) from the TR Shop, for my 4A and although it came with two new seals neither were the rights profile

< here > is the old filter, as it was taken out.    < here > I'm fitting the new filter after have replaced the bodged end-plate washer.   And < here > after the filter canister had spewed oil out ..and I learnt more about the o-rings. I  put the old (originally fitted) one back in the car, with the new filter of course, and it has be fine since.  

Hope that helps, Pete

 

[Jase]

5 hours ago, Bfg said:

I bought a Classic Gold  GFE104 (no 'K' suffix on number on the box) from the TR Shop, for my 4A and although it came with two new seals neither were the rights profile

< here > is the old filter, as it was taken out.    < here > I'm fitting the new filter after have replaced the bodged end-plate washer.   And < here > after the filter canister had spewed oil out ..and I learnt more about the o-rings. I  put the old (originally fitted) one back in the car, with the new filter of course, and it has be fine since.  

Hope that helps, Pete

 

Thanks Pete, I had a GT6 with a similar setup before and that was challenging to get right even with the easy access. Changing the GT6 to a spin oil system is apparently more reliable than doing it to these cars. I have a spin on conversion but a little reluctant to try it. I'll give a TR specialist a call to check on seals etc.

Thanks for the links.

[John Morrison]

Have to say , I wouldn't fit a Spin off filter, 

i) I've never had an issue, famous last words I know, with leaks having changed the filter. I always use a new O Ring, the narrower of the two that come in the box, always clean the O ring channel, making sure nothing is left from the old O ring, lightly grease and screw up square

2) I've known a screw on type, fall off a TR3A on the Motorway at 70 MPH, that guy was very lucky not to lose his engine!

John.

[RobH]

1 hour ago, John Morrison said:

I've known a screw on type, fall off a TR3A

Just to clarify this.  

The problem isn't with the screw-on filters - let's face it modern cars have used them successfully for decades - but with the various adaptor kits for the TR filter heads, one particular type of which is (was?) difficult to fit properly.  There is a discussion on the forum from some years back describing this and how to overcome it. I seem to recall there was a problem with fitting the central threaded part which meant the filter might only engage by a couple of threads. Most of the adaptors do not have this failing.

I fitted a screw-on kit over ten years ago and have never encountered any problem with it. I find changing filters is a less messy process than with the original type. 

 

[Lebro]

+1

Bob

[Bfg]

judging by the state of the filter and the sludge in the sump of my car, some owners only change the filter perhaps once in 20 years ..so there's really not a lot of reason to change to a cartridge type  

[stuart]

The earlier available spin on kits for the 4 cylinder cars were very poorly made and always prone to leaks and in fact I had to swap quite a few back to standard canisters years ago. I believe the newer kits are a bit more reliable now.

Stuart.

[Jase]

3 hours ago, stuart said:

The earlier available spin on kits for the 4 cylinder cars were very poorly made and always prone to leaks and in fact I had to swap quite a few back to standard canisters years ago. I believe the newer kits are a bit more reliable now.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart, I may give this a go, bought it new from Rimmers when I purchased the car in 2020.

Thanks

[TRTOM2498PI]

It simply sounds like someone forgot to fasten the spin-on filter sufficiently, hence why it fell off.

 

I have ran a TR6's, covering over 100k miles since 2003, in all conditions (touring, endurance events, track days & sprints), & never has an issues in this regard.

 

Cheers.

[stuart]

6 minutes ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

It simply sounds like someone forgot to fasten the spin-on filter sufficiently, hence why it fell off.

 

I have ran a TR6's, covering over 100k miles since 2003, in all conditions (touring, endurance events, track days & sprints), & never has an issues in this regard.

 

Cheers.

The one referenced was in Aus and didnt have enough available thread on the head section hence why it unscrewed.

Stuart.

[John Mellor]

Herewith a couple of pics of my lift  ( sadly can't seem to drag and drop so no pics  !! ) which I bought on ebay. Left permanently on garage floor and very few "strokes" to lift to the top with unobstructed access to midline. Sure I'd like a much higher lift but price wise these CJ auto CR012 ramps are a great compromise .

Regards all John Mellor

[Motorsport Mickey]

12 hours ago, John Mellor said:

Herewith a couple of pics of my lift  ( sadly can't seem to drag and drop so no pics  !! ) which I bought on ebay. Left permanently on garage floor and very few "strokes" to lift to the top with unobstructed access to midline. Sure I'd like a much higher lift but price wise these CJ auto CR012 ramps are a great compromise .

Regards all John Mellor

Here you go John, go to the choose files at the bottom of your post and then to your picture location and follow your nose and the instructions. These are C J Library pictures of the ram lifts. 

Mick Richards

[john.r.davies]

13 hours ago, John Mellor said:

Herewith a couple of pics of my lift  ( sadly can't seem to drag and drop so no pics  !! ) which I bought on ebay. Left permanently on garage floor and very few "strokes" to lift to the top with unobstructed access to midline. Sure I'd like a much higher lift but price wise these CJ auto CR012 ramps are a great compromise .

Regards all John Mellor

John,

Does the "choose files" button at the bottom of the post writing box not allow you to select a pic?    That will appear in the box without a drag'n'drop?

[John Mellor]

6 hours ago, john.r.davies said:

John,

Does the "choose files" button at the bottom of the post writing box not allow you to select a pic?    That will appear in the box without a drag'n'drop?

Files on my phone too big

[rcreweread]

1 hour ago, John Mellor said:

Files on my phone too big

John - if you email the photos to yourself off your phone ( I presume thats what you are using as a camera), having selected the photos you want to forward, and selected the " email" option, when you then press send, the phone should give you the option to reduce the sizes of the image( well my i phone does) - there are 4 options to select from - small, medium, large and actual size. I always choose medium, and then it will automatically be sent to your inbox. From there I download/drag the images to my task bar(??not sure what its called) on the bottom of my screen and from there I drag it and drop in the box on the forum post - this is an option right at the bottom of a post which when clicked on, opens up a box to drop them in  - it's where it says "choose files" at the bottom of a reply post - that option only appears when you reply to a post or make a new one.

Hope this helps

Cheers Rich

PS I'm sure there are lots of other ways, possibly easier, which I'm sure other more experienced IT users will suggest, but as an IT nerd myself, I found this way works for me and isn't difficult  

Edited April 23, 2023 by rcreweread