Jump to content

1965 TR4A progress and restoration


Recommended Posts

Next issue :) the car is quite difficult to put into gear, pedal right to the floor and then into gear. It catches about half way up as I release the pedal, no slippage etc. It has been like this ever since I bought the car. There was some leakage from the slave cylinder when purchased and I have replaced the seals so this is back to normal. I re-bled the system yesterday and it is a little better especially when going into reverse but it still isn't smooth. I notice that there is adjustment on the slave cylinder via a threaded bar. Should I extend this out further? Could I do this with the slave cylinder in place?

Thanks for everyone's advice.

 

J

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 550
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

TBH it looks like a pretty good basis to start with, the dent your on about in the arch is supposed to be there and you are missing the wing beadings on top of front and rear wings. The dash you have

Jase, I know these are strange times but I also live in Bridgend and have a 1962 TR4 and would normally offer you the opportunity to come and use as a reference or just a chat. Have you cont

Having spent quite a lot of time going through the car I decided to do an essential run today and drive it for the first time and pick up some petrol, just a few shots back on the drive and my essenti

Posted Images

Firstly check that the operating rod is connected to the centre hole on the clutch operating arm.

Adjust the rod like this but first make sure the slave piston is fully retracted in the cylinder: 

cladj.jpg.faea39cb6852587c3d6a32fb42f51177.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, RobH said:

Firstly check that the operating rod is connected to the centre hole on the clutch operating arm.

Adjust the rod like this but first make sure the slave piston is fully retracted in the cylinder: 

cladj.jpg.faea39cb6852587c3d6a32fb42f51177.jpg

Thank you, will take a look tomorrow.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Lebro said:

Does it crunch into reverse gear. If not then its not a clutch issue.

Bob

It does crunch into reverse sometimes, I have to push the pedal too the floor to get it into any gear and sometimes I need to pump it twice to avoid crunching. System has been bled and new seals in both the master and slave cylinder, no leaks anywhere.

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
14 hours ago, Jase said:

So will a TR6 hardtop fit a TR4A?

It wouldnt fit properly across the rear deck as the buttresses would interfere with the boot lid opening but why would you? I think it would look very top heavy.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes its the same glass for 4/4a/5/6. By the looks of it you also have a Surrey screen capping too.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/11/2022 at 2:09 PM, Jase said:

Next issue :) the car is quite difficult to put into gear, pedal right to the floor and then into gear. It catches about half way up as I release the pedal, no slippage etc. It has been like this ever since I bought the car. There was some leakage from the slave cylinder when purchased and I have replaced the seals so this is back to normal. I re-bled the system yesterday and it is a little better especially when going into reverse but it still isn't smooth. I notice that there is adjustment on the slave cylinder via a threaded bar. Should I extend this out further? Could I do this with the slave cylinder in place?

Thanks for everyone's advice.

 

J

Have you had a look at the pivot end as it could look like this. I weld them up and then redrill 5/16th

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

DSC01385.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, harrytr5 said:

Have you had a look at the pivot end as it could look like this. I weld them up and then redrill 5/16th

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

DSC01385.JPG

Thanks, it seemed to bed in after re-bleeding, not done that many miles in the car since.

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jase, definitely not wanting to p on your parade, and I've not used one..  but looking at the photo suggests the Strongman Tamar has an awful lot of structure and gubbings to make access under the centre section of the car rather difficult.  Arguably there's not a lot in that centre section that you need to get at ..save the gearbox mounts, the prop / driveshaft, the exhaust, seat mountings, possibly the trailing arm mounting brackets, and of course the chassis and body tub when paint is required.  But might I ask what your primary requirement might be.?  ..as it seems to me a lot of kit and a big chunk of money which may not be best suited to a rear wheel drive car with only 6" ground clearance.

Pete

  tamer-3-1-600x536.jpg&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=390

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Pete that the closed ends of the top frame would make access difficult.

My mid rise ramp of a similar design does not have the ends of the top H frame closed in so access is great.

Before starting the only consideration is what work you plan to carry out and which way round to put the car on the ramp to ensure the rams do not obstruct access.  

Currently the one from BH Repairs is very competitive.

Neil

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/22/2022 at 12:54 PM, Ransomes256 said:

I agree with Pete that the closed ends of the top frame would make access difficult.

My mid rise ramp of a similar design does not have the ends of the top H frame closed in so access is great.

Before starting the only consideration is what work you plan to carry out and which way round to put the car on the ramp to ensure the rams do not obstruct access.  

Currently the one from BH Repairs is very competitive.

Neil

 

I'll be using it on my three classics just fror ease of use. It's had good feedback on a Spitfire facebook page, I liked the BH repairs ramp but they want payment by bank transfer before I get the goods and I'm really not comfortable with that although it does seem the best for access. T

he other one is the automotech ramp which looks to have some more access to it. I thought the main issues would be gearbox although I tend to remove these from within the car or all out as one with the engine. The cross rails would hinder exhaust work but i can always chock it up a little higher? I'm not expecting any issues with exhausts as I have stainless fitted to all cars.

Looking forward to not having to bend down to change suspension etc.

Edited by Jase
Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Ransomes256 said:

This lift will give you better access but will be tight fit on width between the wheels 1100mm. 

My lift is only 900mm wide.

Neil

 

 

 

 

Good point, this seems closer in width:

https://automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7630-mobile-scissor-lift/

I'd buy the BH Repairs one if it wasn't bank transfer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.