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Hi Folks,

I popped the 4A in for the MOT yesterday.

Before I set off I checked the rear lights, all OK. The flashers, OK, and the front side lights :o:o not working.

 

Had a quick check of the fuse and it had blown. New one fitted and the sides were OK.

 

At the MOT station it failed. The FNS head light was dicky - main very dim and dip not working :o:o

FNS wheel touching the upper wishbones on full lock

 

AND sat nav stuck on windscreen

 

Not a problem - that is what the MOT is there for.

 

The Main headlight was a very corroded bullet socket (new two years ago) So it was replaced + new bullets.

Haven't a clue on the dip lamp as it was working OK.

The wishbone was ground back a tad to clear the wheel.

Satnav placed on the rear seat.

Rear number plate lamp only worked with a tap.

 

Back to the MOT station.

man happy with the wheel

Man NOT happy with the FNS headlight as it was still not working - but it was perfect on the driveway.

Waggle the wires and the light became a supernova - so he was happy.

The dip switch had a tantrum - but did work (eventually)

 

When I got home I replaced ALL the bullets and sockets in the engine bay - most were in a sorry state

How do you keep the moisture out? Vaseline may do it.

 

Removed the dip switch and found you could push it in (quite stiff) with your fingers but would then stay depressed.

Also one of the two indentations that act as a travel stop on the way up was not engaging so the bit you press was cocked.

 

OK off to the shops get new dip switch RTC432A - it looked identical (truer than I was expecting)

When I got it home I had a close look at it.

It is very stiff and compared to the old one can only just be operated with a.serious clonk/Click.

I also noted that the same indentation is not engaging fully so the cap is a little on the p*ss - not quite as bad as the old one.

 

Question - how stiff should these be (I know it is foot operated) and has anybody else noted the Skewed cap.

 

The car did pass the retest and the examiner didn't want my collection of rusty bullets/sockets

 

Roger

 

PS - at some point on the debacle the Ig light stopped working. After a removal and an inspection it worked fine - it was getting lonely.

PPS - when I entered Moss this morning Mike Brewer (from the TV car prog) was there - how did he know I would turn up.

Edited by RogerH
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Why not try a sealer spray like a liquid electrical tape.

One version is ebay item 310339493743

Direct link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liquid-Electrical-Tape-SPRAY-Waterproofing-Liquid-Tape-for-RC-Servo-/310339493743?var=&hash=item4841acdf6f:m:mEOLTkTxyfBGerANULc9i4A

Stuart.

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Hi Ian,

he was doing something with the MG bunch. Lots of big wigs in attendance.

I knew we couldn;t have a chat, as he was quite busy, even though he was desperate to see how the crank was getting.

 

Hi Ransomes - that could be worth a try.

 

Roger

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Section 8.3 of the DVSA test manual (drivers view of the road), reason for

rejection in zone A ( swept area 290mm wide central on steering wheel).A sticker

or other obstruction encroaching more than 10mm, remainder of swept area a

sticker or other obstruction more than 40mm. Note items present in drivers view

(eg. sat. nav. or air freshener etc.) that would justify a reason for rejection

may be removed at testers discretion prior to test & added as an advisory.

 

 

Harvey S.Maitland

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What rotten luck Roger. It's odd how Murphy's Law seems to dictate that features working perfectly as we leave home will play up immediately on arrival at an MOT test station!

 

As for the dip switch I know you are no stickler for originality so you might consider my mod. 45 years ago I binned the awful foot operated dipper and replaced it with a heavy duty two position on/on switch mounted in a panel under the dash to the right of the steering column. The wires from the original switch reached the new one without needing to be lengthened, which was a bonus. I fitted a fairly stiff rubber extension to the switch and this allows it to be operated by a finger tip whilst the right hand is still in contact with the wheel.

 

Tim

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Hi Folks,

I popped the 4A in for the MOT yesterday.................

 

PPS - when I entered Moss this morning Mike Brewer (from the TV car prog) was there - how did he know I would turn up.

 

 

Bummer Roger, but not to worry in 20 years it'll be the TR4 AA.......................Brewers new project with Ant.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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The foot operated dip switch eventually got to me so I have replaced mine by using a second Overdrive switch and escutcheon on the left side of the steering wheel. I had already modified the headlamp wiring using two relays and heavy duty feed direct from the battery so using a second overdrive switch as dip/main switch was a very simple mod.

 

If anyone wants details, contact me via a PM and I'll send a diagram of what it entails.

 

TT

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I like the foot-operated dipswitch! It's where my left foot rests and so it's easy and quick to use.

My original (1962) switch failed in 1996 and I bought a replacement from Moss - it continues to operate satisfactorily and is not difficult to operate.

Ian Cornish

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Hi Tim/Tony,

I'm quite happy with the foot operated switch. However I'm concerned that it is not working as it should.

 

The old switch can be operated by finger and thumb on one hand. Sometimes it jams up - hence new one required

The new on can only be compressed with two hands and the internal mechanism does not switch over - just too heavy.

 

I shall take it back tomorrow and see what's going on.

 

Roger

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Hot melt glue works very well for encasing bullet connectors and suchlike in a moisture and vibration proof cocoon, and for sealing connections on the back of lamps, switches etc.

 

Apply glue from the gun in the usual way, then mould with fingers as it cools . . . .

 

Cheap, easy, works.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Folks,

having had a look on Google and Ebay the dip switch RTC432A appears to be standard for almost all cars before 1970.

Almost certainly made by one manufacturer (previously Lucas, but who knows now) and sold by all the usual suspects.

 

if this is the case then there may be a problem.

My new dip switch looks nice and shiny. The spring moves the cap up and down nicely.

However there are two problems -

1 - it is almost impossible to overcome the bottom position to get it ti click to the other switch position.

2 - the cap that you press has two top stop indentations. One is not doing its job and allows the cap to cock over.

 

So - big question - are they all like this?

 

Going back to Moss this morning tp discuss.

 

Roger

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Can you not repair the old one?

 

Alternatively, if you can post or send me a pic of the old one, I have a spare that I picked up on ebay years ago thinking it was the one for my car and it turned out not to be. It my be the same as yours?

 

Rgds Ian

Edited by Ian Vincent
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Hi Ian,

I've just repaired the old one - against all odds.

Thank you for the offer though.

 

The problem with the old one was that it pushed in and stayed there.

It took quite a wiggle to free it.

Dismantling was a defo Uni PhD job.

 

The cap is pushed against a strong spring.

To stop the spring pushing the cap off on its return there are two indentations that run in grooves in the Ali body. These hit end stops.

 

The first thing to do is raise up the indentations.

One side (opposite the three contact blades) is easy - just push in a thin piece of steel and tap with a hammer.

 

The other side is more interesting as it has the contact blade cover in the way.

Using the same piece of steel as above this can be slid in and bingo.

The piece of steel needs to be - 3mm wide x 1mm thick x 8mm long. A hole in the end to help remove afterwards

 

With the cap off you then hunt around the garage until you find the two springs and other parts :o:o:o

Refit the cap without the springs - this will show if the cap is sticking on the body - and yes it was.

A couple of wipes with a file and all was good. The cap must not stick/seize on the body.

 

Spray the inside contacts with 'servisol' and coat the nylon plunger with Vaseline.

Replace contents. Replace cap and close the indentations.

 

The old switch can now be operated by finger and thumb and return consistently.

 

If you find the cap cocked over then one of the indentation end stops needs closing down a tad.

A simple tap with a small pin punch. Don;t be too aggressive otherwise you may distort the cap - back to square one..

 

The new one has a stronger spring but more importantly something is stopping it flipping the switch.

This switch cost £10. I've just ordered one of the bay for £5.90 and shall see what that is like.

Surely they can't all be duff.

 

I can feel a PQI coming on.

 

Roger

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The foot operated dip switch eventually got to me so I have replaced mine by using a second Overdrive switch and escutcheon on the left side of the steering wheel. I had already modified the headlamp wiring using two relays and heavy duty feed direct from the battery so using a second overdrive switch as dip/main switch was a very simple mod.

 

If anyone wants details, contact me via a PM and I'll send a diagram of what it entails.

 

TT

PM sent Tony, what a good idea. (why didn't I think of that)

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Well I like the foot operated one.

 

Bob

Hi Bob,

if you like the foot Dip Switch then you would love mine.

 

Smooth, positive with a satisfying click - wow.

 

Next month at the pub I'll let you have a press (if you are wearing clean shoes)

 

Roger.

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