HSM

Very impressed with that, i want one. Harvey S. Maitland

From my old Autodata manual %co at an idle of 750-800rpm is 2.5 to 3.5, as a comparison the TR7 is 2.0-4.5. Harvey S. Maitland

From my aged failing memory when i first met Paul many years ago, some of his students noticed the resemblance to a certain tv character ( Catweazle), his friends abbreviated this to Cat & the name seems to have stuck over the years. Harvey S. Maitland

You can remove the metering unit with distributor whilst still leaving the injectors in the throttle bodies ( it is a bit fiddly ) undo the 4 screws to remove the control unit to access the diaphragm for removal ( the centres require pressing into the new diaphragm ). Take care to set ignition & fuel timing as in the instruction manual when reassembling. Harvey S. Maitland

Usual cause is a perforated fuel diaphragm seal , readily available from usual suppliers. Requires removing metering unit to replace & may require datum track re-setting. Harvey S. Maitland

Went out in the TR6 today for a short run to the local garden centre. Came out to restart ( nothing incl. not any lights ). checked battery terminals o.k. all lights suddenly came on & car started. Drove back to the garage, no power again. Checked positive lead to starter solenoid o.k. checked connection at solenoid no power to main loom. Disconnected connections at solenoid ( all slightly corroded ) cleaned them all up & full electrical power restored. Hope this may be of some help to anyone out there that experiences a similar failure.

Common fault crank sensor, should be cheaper than a code reader. Harvey S. Maitland

On my 6 I have had a link on the timing chain come loose and catching the timing cover on rotation, sounded very much like your noise.

What's Paul Tunnadine doing admiring a TR6. Harvey S. Maitland

Carl Fitchett of TR Trader 67 Ladybridge road, Cheadle Hulme, Cheshire, SK8 5NZ, 07831 826 877 has taken over from Malcolm. Harvey S. Maitland

Just had a search in my stores & found the tool in question. The rod I used was an old push rod with last inch bent at approx. 30", have used it on MGBs should work o.k. on TR heads. Harvey S. Maitland

It is possible using an old plug with the centre cut out & a rod inserted with the end bent over enough to lock behind a valve & then pulled back holding the valve head shut & then clamped in position to remove the valve spring without removing the head. I have a home made tool somewhere in my toolbox that that has helped me at race meetings in the past to replace broken valve springs. Harvey S. Maitland

Just had a message from the North Wales group that at present the Gold Cup is still on in August subject to Government guide lines (fingers crossed ) Harvey S. Maitland

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Always use GL 4 but never GL 5.