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foster461

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foster461 last won the day on May 21

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About foster461

  • Birthday 10/10/1952

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  • Website URL
    http://newenglandtriumphs.org/
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  • Location
    Dunstable, MA, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    Assistant Director of New England Triumphs.

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  1. A rainy day here but the TR3 is in the trailer so I was able to continue the search for the noise. I had the stethoscope and a length of tubing to poke around with and I could not find the source. All of the pulleys are tight, the fan is not loose. One thing that is different from when this engine was first run is that at some point after a few hundred miles I closed off the heater valve. I dont know if an air lock could be playing a role but I opened that valve anyway and I'll test again later this week and see if anything changes. Next step will be to get the car in the air and see if I can find anything from below.
  2. Dont forget Rob's suggestion about the chokes. They often stick, or the front one works but the rear doesnt. Pull out the choke and lock it and then go and manually pull the jets down so they are fully descended. Stan
  3. Since my original post I had to replace the harmonic damper on the TR6, move 1 cubic yard of river rock to extend a border around the porch, replace two dead Carol Mackey shrubs with dwarf mountain laurels, cut down some trees that were interfering with the electrical and cable coming into the house from the street, rewire a ceiling fan and install two LED ceiling lights in the master bedroom. So i have yet to get back to the TR3 noise. I swear I had more discretionary time before I retired.
  4. I have several sets in the garage tool boxes and in the TRs. Some with levers, some that you have to turn over. I dont know how we survived before these were available. My only problem is a couple that got too close to the 80 grit aluminum oxide in the blast cabinet and now they stick occasionally. Stan
  5. I had the radiator out of my TR6 recently and on Sat am i took it for a short drive to the post office. It seemed to be running a bit hotter than normal but I attributed that to the fact that I had not yet installed the radiator shroud. I put the shroud back in place and went for a longer drive to the supermarket. Still running a bit warmer than normal until I was stopped at a long traffic light and i watched the temp climb way into the hot region on the gauge. It was about that time when the instant replay kicked in and I questioned whether I had reconnected the electric fan switch... I let it cool down while I picked up some groceries and sure enough, i found the short loom for the fan switch tucked in behind the main loom on the inner wing. A bit awkward to reconnect it to the terminals on the fan switch but did it by feel. Switched on the ignition, engine still hot, fan came on. Glad it was not a really hot day. Stan
  6. All this talk about trains and all I can think about is cheese.
  7. Good points about fan belt tension and replacing the fan belt Waldi, it looks ok but it is at least 11 years old. It is a 45.5 inch belt set with the tried and true method of measuring deflection after applying an unspecified amount of force. Stan
  8. It did feel 2hp quicker on the test drive
  9. Years ago I replaced the TR6 Lucas alternator with a 55A Bosch unit. It was only when looking at it this morning that it all looked a bit odd and the pulley did not line up with the water pump pulley. You can see in the pic below how the belt has to make a detour to get to the alternator pulley. I removed the alternator and messed with the spacers to move the unit forward half an inch. That brought things into better alignment but I had to move the bolt for the adjustable bracket to the other side of the tab on the alternator. I'm still not convinced that the alternator pulley is in the exact same plane as the water pump and crank damper but it looks better than it did before. I'm surprised that the water pump and or alternator did not bust a bearing as it has been like this for over 10 years. Just wondering what others may have done when fitting a modern alternator to achieve the correct alignment ? The rad shroud is off because I was taking care of some other issues at the same time. Stan
  10. Try the Buckeye Triumphs technical section. Still a great reference source after all these years. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox Stan
  11. Congrats Graham, it looks fantastic, a new TR6. You are correct, they are never really finished but that is part of the charm. Stan
  12. Roger mentioned piston slap earlier I think Roger just likes to type Piston Slap. In my case this is a newly rebuilt engine with around 600 miles on it. Still waiting for the time where the weather and my schedule align so I can get back to this and do some additional tests.. Stan
  13. If the kidney panel cards are stiff and the end nearest the firewall is fixed to something they should not move. I actually dont know how they were attached by the factory but I made up a couple of sheet metal brackets that are screwed into the poly gearbox tunnel aka doghouse and each pad is attached to a bracket using a chrome trim screw and cup washer. An easy way to restore matrimonial harmony. Stan
  14. In all my time with the TR6 it is by far the worst job that I ever had to do on a TR. I would rather pull the engine and rebuild it than replace those wiper gearboxes again. To keep all the bits aligned when you re-assemble, thread the rack cable through all the tubes and gearboxes and then start to tighten the clamps. Stan
  15. Thanks for all the great suggestions and diagnostic ideas. The weather was dreadful today, rain and 50 degree F temps so we opted to go get our second Shingles shot instead. Tomorrow looks better for getting into this noise a bit deeper and I do have a stethoscope and some poly tubing. Stan
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