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foster461 last won the day on July 6

foster461 had the most liked content!

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About foster461

  • Birthday 10/10/1952

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  • Location
    Dunstable, MA, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    Assistant Director of New England Triumphs.

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  1. Drilling the bolt head and anchoring the safety wire to the bracket might work. May have to add something to the bracket to make that work without impeding the operation of the bell crank.
  2. The inner race is slightly wider than the outer so the spacer doesn't interfere with the bearing operation. Re the spilt pin, the nut will end up right up against the exhaust. I could assemble it and secure the nut with a cotter pin or safety wire but if this bell crank doesn't work out I would have a heck of a job getting it off without removing the manifold..
  3. That is just what I was playing with Ed. The 1/4 socket head bolt sits nicely on the bearing inner and the spacer lets it stand off the bracket. I think I will weld a nut on the bracket so I can more easily remove it if I need to. Maybe just use some thread locker to discourage the bolt from winding out. It is a very hostile location. Stan
  4. I have been steadily replacing the linkage that came with the cannon manifold using better quality linkage parts. The last part to go is the bell crank which I have never liked because it is a one size fits all contraption held together with nuts and bolts and it tends to bind when it gets hot because there is no bearing for the pivot, just a bush. I bought a bell crank from Summit racing which looks like a reasonable quality part but the bearing surface is recessed on both sides so I am unclear how they expect this to be installed. This will be attached to a bracket under the manifold and the only way I see this working is to add some spacers to both sides of the bearing that would allow me to clamp this up tight to the bracket without impeding the ability to swivel. What am I missing ? Stan
  5. My TR3a has under 1000 miles since the engine rebuild and refurbed radiator. It has the bellows thermostat and a 4lb rad cap. Its running temp is 185f, the middle of the dial. If the car stays moving it will stay at that temp all day but if I get stuck in traffic on a hot day it will creep up to the next tick on the gauge just like Hamish. Once moving again it will slowly return to 185 and at no time do I feel like the engine is in distress. I on the other hand get very hot when it is 100 degrees out and very high humidity like most of July. Stan
  6. Well you get bonus points for getting the tap to open without the handle shearing off and double extra points for getting anything to come out of it. All positive signs for the block. Stan
  7. Hi Jonathan and welcome. Just because the rad and engine have been flushed doesnt mean they are clear of restricted passageways. The crud that builds up sets like concrete and a normal flush would not clear it. The 4 pot engine is very prone to the last cylinder liner getting a lot of sediment around it and an infra red thermometer might help you determine if there is a particular hot spot. Normally things cool down as you speed up so something definately not doing its job. Stan
  8. In 2010 I think that tank could have been salvaged by cleaning and sealing it etc but I looked at the mountain of work ahead of me and decided to spend the $200 on a new tank knowing that it may have its own issues with baffles and vent. In the end it worked out fine. This one will go in the scrap pile.
  9. Having the right tools make this job pretty straightforward and safe. I found with a small modification I can use that spring compressor on the TR6 and the TR3, the ho!es just need enlarging a bit to fit the TR3 studs. The hardest part for me is fitting the spring pan.. Get the compressor wound up so that the spring pan is just touching the studs and then use a big screwdriver to lever the pan and engage the studs. Stan
  10. When I took the fuel tank out of my TR3a in 2010 it was pretty rusty so I decided to replace it with a new one. Yesterday I cut up the old tank which had become a home to several generations of mice and I took some pictures of the internals. There are two baffles, one at each end and the vent tube pick-up forms a U bend and runs along the top of the tank. The other end of the vent tube With one baffle removed.
  11. Glad you got that sorted Roger. Even without shooting yourself in the foot PC disk drives are notoriously unreliable and can fail at any time. I have local backups to USB drives and and also backup to a cloud system just in case the house burns down. https://www.backblaze.com/cloud-backup.html Stan
  12. Tim sent me a replacement for the defective controller and logic has returned to the Foster TR6 overdrive.
  13. Great pictures Dan, TR Action front cover material. Stan
  14. Great video Hamish, that looks like a lot of fun. Car sounds great and pirouettes very nicely. Stan
  15. That pic was all over Facebook a few days ago Roger. Likely started in one of the Triumph groups. Posted by Simon Edwards.
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